CMH Gourmand

Culinary Discovery & Misadventures in the Ice Cream Capital of the World (Columbus)

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Small Bytes: Pistacia Vera – Brunch and Other Stuff

Posted by cmh gourmand on December 17, 2011

I had an axe to grind regarding brunch at Pistacia Vera. Don’t get me wrong, I love Pistacia Vera and I think the world of Spencer and Anne. Here’s the thing, as you know, I am not a fan of breaking fast (reasons outlined logically in previous posts). I might even be the Grinch of breakfast. I was miffed during the most recent Dine Originals Week. Historically my Dine Originals Week ritual is to get the $10 Pistacia Vera tasting box to cap off the week. Well, last time there was no box just a brunch deal. Hrumph!

I started to hear high praise for the brunch options from many credible sources. I am not a fan of quiche (only because it is so often prepared poorly) but quiches as well as Shirred Eggs and a Cottage Ham & Brie Sandwich were repeatedly mentioned in my presence. Hmm. Sandwich on a Pistacia Vera Croissant….I could do that and sniff out these other offerings in the process.

I went on a reconnaissance meal with my diner-in-chief. I was happy to see Jim Budros sweeping the front walk at the German Village shop (Jim is a BBQ Master, Pizza Purist and father of Anne and Spencer). Looking at the menu, I was hooked so we committed to two dine in brunch options.

We tried the Shirred Eggs: two eggs, baked in cream with parmigiano, oregano, garlic, herbs, and tomato fondue. This is served with a toasted, sliced croissant and house-made preserves.

The verdict? Superior, perfect, excellent. This now on my top three breakfast/brunch picks (the other two being the Pattycake Bakery Orange Sticky Bun and the Egg Sandwich at Explorer’s Club).

Selection number two was the Cottage Ham and Brie Breakfast sandwich: smoked cottage ham, fromage d’affinois, Dijon mustard, cornichons, fresh greens on a toasted whole wheat croissant. Thoughts on this one? Also excellent, easy to share and conveniently, could hold its own in the lunch category.

These two entrees made for a great meal, but there is much more than makes brunch at Pistacia Vera special and well worth the effort. Columbus is fortunate to have several excellent coffee roasters. One that tends to stay off the radar due to a consumer unfriendly approach to opening hours is Cafe Brioso. Pistacia Vera serves several Briso blends and sells bags of ground Briso coffees. Having access to this coffee to drink and buy at more customer friendly hours is a boon. Pairing Pistacia Vera with Brioso is genius.

Maybe this is starting to read like a commercial or product endorsement? Well, this paragraph is brought to you by Pistacia Vera Preserves. My modest serving with the Cottage Ham and Brie sandwich was good enough to inspire me to purchase two jars. If you are reading this before Christmas, a few purchases at Pistacia Vera could cure your own Grinchness or make you the hero of a holiday gift exchange.

And, let’s not forget the primary reason to visit Pistachia Vera – chocolates, macaroons, tortes and more, oh my! We opted for a pre-brunch appetizer of a Buche de Noel (Christmas Log). A slice of log is a great way to celebrate the season and Pistacia Vera makes the best in Columbus.

Humbug? I am now the Grinch who ate breakfast. Thanks Pistacia Vera. One final, but vital note. the Hot Chocolate at Pistacha Vera is the best in town. Better and less expensive than Northstar and Jeni’s. This proclamation may be sacrilege to these two culinary holy cows but if you charge $4.50 for hot chocolate it should be orgasmic, Pistacia Vera hits the mark at $3. Now I am off to put antlers on CMH Tobias.

Pistacia Vera
541 South Third Street
German Village
614.220.9070

Pistacia Vera on Urbanspoon

Posted in bakery, beverages, breakfast, chocolate, desserts | Tagged: | 2 Comments »

Explorers Club: My First Expeditions

Posted by cmh gourmand on October 23, 2011

I am pleased. I am happy. Darn it, I might even use the word ecstatic! I have waited ten years and two months for this sign.

So what is the big deal? The Explorer’s Club is open. Yes, it is a restaurant. Ricky Barnes is cooking in the kitchen and Tracy Studer is guiding the front of the house. If you don’t recognize these names then you probably did not dine out in Columbus from the early 1990′s to 2001 (The Galaxy Cafe, Lost Planet Pizza and Pasta, Ricky’s Galaxy). Ricky and Tracy describe the Explorer’s Club as the Galaxy grown up. A few of the dishes and all of the flavors of Galaxies past are on the menu. The menu, decor and focus on service reflect changes in Tracy, Ricky and the rest of us during the last decade.

So a blast from the past has returned. Many eaters from the Columbus dining scene of old have fond memories of Ricky’s culinary accomplishments. Another element adding to the bigness of the deal is the location. I have discussed growing downtown dining and why this is important to the city. A good restaurant can be a foundation or launching point for a community (for example Yellow Brick Pizza and Angry Baker in Olde Town East). The Explorer’s Club is located on South High in Merion Village. The plucky neighborhood has limited eating options within their community, so a successful restaurant with good food can be a vibrant asset to the area. A past effort in the space, Coyote Jane’s, was a horrible disappointment (Did I just write something negative? Yes, and readers know I never do that. I will say the food, service and, well, everything was memorable, but not because it was good).

So with all of this good karma swelling up I must admit I had some trepidation. This was like revisiting an old flame. Are things ever as good as we remember them? I changed, they changed. Was the awesomeness of the Galaxy just a fond memory I had built up over the years. What if I did not like it? More importantly, what if you don’t like it. I don’t know if I can deal with the Galaxy imploding again the Explorer’s Club closing it’s doors.

I visited during a dry run night and ate for free. I went the next two days for brunch and was happy to pay for meals just as good at a good value. The verdict: YES! wonderful, near perfect, exciting, tasty. The menu may have an aspect of nostalgia but the flavor is there and a explorers spirit of pushing the limits. Considering the Explorer’s Club was open just to test drive the menu, train new servers and cooks and for experimenting with a few ideas, the end result was spectacular. I typically don’t try out a new restaurant for at least a month after opening so they can work out any kinks and I can walk through the door with reasonable expectations. On paper the Explorer’s Club should not have had much of a chance to blow me away based on my fervent loyalty of the past. I am looking forward to what the Explorer’s Club can do with a more seasoned staff and a few weeks of menu enhancements. Changes are already in the works. A bar menu is in the process of development as well as a limited selection of cocktails.

The food and the music is impressively sourced locally when possible. Here is a list of some of the local purveyors used:

Used Kids Records (the genres of music mix well with the menu)
Growers First / Crimson Cup (Coffee and Tea)
Shagbark Seed and Mill Company (from my food first favorite Athens, Ohio)
Gerber cage free, organic vegetarian fed chicken
OSU Agricultural egg hormone and antibiotic free pork
Stutzman Farms (grains/flour)

Not local, but definitely reflective of the restaurant, is where the artwork is sourced from. Most of the prints are by Jeb Loy Nichols, Wales UK.

Nichol’s portraits of famous or infamous names you may have heard include: John Coltrane, Amelia Earhart, Hank Aaron, Wendell Berry, Miles Davis, Nina Simone, Harvey Milk and Woody Gutherie. All were pioneers in their fields and times. The tagline of the Explorers Club is Simple – Pioneering – Flavor. The Galaxy was a pioneer in Columbus dining in the day and today, Explorers Club has taken that spirit and refined it. Staking a claim in Merion Village could be pioneering as well, I hope others will follow to add to the spice of this neighborhood.

So after all of this historical and philosophic foreplay, it is time to focus on the food.

Dinner was my first experience (note a few menu items may change of get tweaked by the time you travel to the Explorer’s Club. The item I hoped to see the most was black bean hummus. It is on the menu and is now served with garlic citrus pizza bread (looks and tastes like the best pita bread I have ever had). The hummus is great. I do miss the giant pool of garlic sauce that topped the 1993 – 2001 version but since that causes significant “personal space” issues for me, I figure it was omitted for the safety of the general public.

I also ordered the chicken quesadilla with charred salsa and sour cream. The salsa packed some significant heat but paired with the cool sour cream accentuated the flavors of everything on the plate.

The winner of the dinner entrees selected was the beef brisket (with black beans, redskin potatoes and jalapeno slaw). The brisket fell apart with very light pressure from my fork. It has a complimentary mix of flavors in the broth to spice things up. My dining companion is not a fan of the jalapeno but she found the proportion of pepper to slaw to be perfect balance of heat and cool.

For dessert there was only one choice I could allow, another blast from my past, Mrs. Barnes Pumpkin Dessert (I recalled this being called Surpise). Oh, yes. This is no pumpkin pie. It is served with cream and fresh berries. It might best be described as a fusion of cake, pie and cheesecake. It is good, that is all that matters.

I woke up the following day and got some of the old gang together to go back from brunch (after college a group of six to ten of us were there almost every Saturday for one or two meals). Longtime readers know I have little interest in breakfast with very few exceptions, Explorers Club is on the short list. I liked my group meal so much I went back the next day solo to sample the only item I did not try the day before.

Another menu item I was passionately, desperately, pathetically hoping for was museli. This simple dish was the hallmark for all other museli experiences in my life, with the exception of a serving I had in Zug, Switzerland every subsequent museli left me wanting and musing about why Ricky would create something so good and take it away. The 2011 version is as good as any and quite photogenic.

Next was the Sophie’s Choice of toast: Cuban French Toast with fruit vs. Grilled Cinnamon Bread with fruit and cream. The Gourmand approach to problem solving goes something like this, “when in doubt, get both”. It was the right choice. Both get “best of show” in their classes. I can not advise you to pick one over the other. The crunchy, funnel cake like batter on the French Toast is borderline addictive. French or not, Cuban bread is the finest way to experience this dish. As for the Cinnamon Bread, the cream was great – I would love to see more on teh side next time.

(I mean really, how could you choose?)

All the breads are made in-house at Explorers Club. The bread is fresh, hearty and serves as a great base for many of the dishes or a compliment for dipping sauces on the side. One their best uses of bread is the Fried Egg sandwich served on Ciabatta with Muenster Cheese and Jalapeno slaw with redskin potatoes on the side. This is a bit messy to eat but who cares, it might be the best breakfast sandwich (non-traditional category) in town.

Love at first bite? In my case, they had me at OPEN. Trying to be objective, would I feel the same way about Explorers Club without the prior history? Yes. If anything my expectations and hopes may have made impressing me more difficult. Considering that more additions and improvements are in the works for the coming weeks, it is easy to believe their grade of A going to A+. The Explorer’s Club is worth exploring. I would suggest going for both a dinner and brunch to gauge the potential that is here.

I will be writing about the Explorers Club more for sure. I am interested in what the bar menu will have to offer as well as the variety of cocktails appearing behind the bar. Did I mention I was really happy?

The Explorer’s Club opens the doors to the world on October 28th, 2011.

Explorers Club
1586 S. High Street
Merion Village / South Side
614.725-0155
Facebook

Explorers Club on Urbanspoon

Posted in breakfast, Locally Sourced, restaurants, sandwiches, Vegetarian Friendly | Tagged: , , | 12 Comments »

The Angry Baker

Posted by cmh gourmand on July 13, 2011

The Angry Baker is anything but angry. Friendly and engaging, Vickie Hink made her way to Columbus to pursue a culinary path. Along the way she moved to Olde Town East and shifted her focus to baking. Shortly after Yellow Brick Pizza opened she walked by the space she now bakes in and decided it would be the perfect spot for her own bakery. This up and coming Olde Town culinary block will soon be joined by a tavern serving Ohio beers and sandwiches with Angry Baker buns. This is an exciting time to live in the area and certainly something to be happy about.

Vicki gets up at 4 am to bake a variety of breads including Brioche. The day starts with breakfast, which is served all day. The crowd pleaser is the Egg Sandwich featuring a fried egg with Bluejacket Dairy Ludlow cheese on a Bacon, Swiss & Chive Scone. Lunch and later includes soups, salads, sandwiches and (vegan) desserts. Many of the ingredients are Ohio Proud such as: Sharp White Cheddar (L.W. Randal’s, Warsaw), Mayfield Havarti (Orwell), Turkey from Cooper Farms (St. Henry), Eggs laid at Hillandale Farms (Croton) and oats, flour, bran, honey, maple syrup – Stutzman Farms (Millersburg).

I sampled The Turkey sandwich piled with cucumber, alfalfa sprouts, dijon, brie, tomato
on Brioche served with a side salad. The sandwich was hearty and tasty. I would get it again. I might get two.

In the dessert category I tried the Blueberry scone (rated 10 out of 10 on the scale of perfect sconeness), the vegan chocolate blueberry brownie (dense, tasted of chocolate without blocking the blueberry flavor) and after seeing the neighboring couple take one bite then sigh with pure bliss – a chocolate eclair (the yellow custard had flavor, richness and thickness with the dough and chocolate complimenting the filling with balance). Did I like the dessert? My run-on description should attest to my feelings on the matter.

The space is small with a tiny table and bar counter seating six or so. There is a table outside as well. Most of the orders are to go. If you have time, score a seat at the counter to watch Vicki construct sandwiches with speed and grace at an incredible pace without breaking a sweat. Placed under the plastic countertop are copies of recipes and cooking notes which creates the feeling of being in Grandma’s kitchen. This practical decor is integrated with the rest of the urban folk style art throughout the space. The highlight of the art (all by the same designer) is the bathroom mural.

If you bake it or pour it, they will come and that is what is happening in Olde Town East. A bustling culinary block is building a better community.

The Angry Baker
891 Oak St
Olde Town East
614.947.0976

The Angry Baker on Urbanspoon

Posted in breakfast, desserts, restaurants, sandwiches | Tagged: | 2 Comments »

Donut World: Third Best Donuts in Ohio

Posted by cmh gourmand on November 23, 2010

subtitle: Along the Ohio Donut Trail with guest star CMH Tobias


The best donuts in Ohio are at Donald’s Donuts in Zanesville. The second best donuts are from DK Diner in Grandview. Exception: if someone brings you DK Diner Donuts…those are the best donuts you will ever have. In Lancaster, a local legend has the third best donuts in Ohio. In respect to their pumpkin donuts, some of their “fancy donuts” and 24 hour access to donuts on demand, Donut World may take the cake and place first in some critical categories. As I wait for typed indignant outcry, let me share what I know about Donut World.

My first encounter was a classic case of it’s not what you know but who you know and what they can be talked into. My friend Amanda Anderson used the power of twitter to have Harold LaRue-Lessner (of Dirty Franks fame) deliver a box of Donut World donuts to his restaurant for holding. Amanda picked up the loot and then I looted her box for a few samples. Based on this experience of second hand donuts I noted I should get more soon. So I did.

My first visit was thwarted by a parade, traffic barriers and about fifty people in line for the newest batch of pumpkin donuts. I aborted my mission to go drinking. About five hours later I returned to the scene of donut fail.

Donut World has an impressive line up of thirty plus donuts, fritters, Bismarks and donut holes. Categories are broken down into Fancy and Regular donuts with iced, powdered, cream-filled and other variants. Drool. Since pumpkin donuts were in season and made minutes before my arrival I stuffed two of those in my mouth and selected a mixed box of ten more to go. I proclaim the donuts to be very good. The remainder of the box ended up at Bono Pizza later in the day with no survivors when I left the premise. Five out of five donut eaters say Donut World is awesome. I rest my case.

Also of note, there is a dentist office on the other side of the parking lot. Did I mention Donut World is open 24 hours? So unless there is a parade, you have full, unencumbered access to donuts.

Donut World
601 North Broad St
Lancaster
740.653.4888
Drive Thru Open 24 hours except Christmas day
Shop open 6 am to 10 pm daily

Posted in breakfast, desserts, donuts, Ohio Donut Trail | Tagged: , | 5 Comments »

CLEGourmand: Tommy’s & the Community of Coventry

Posted by cmh gourmand on November 17, 2010

I have eaten at many of the finest dining establishments in Cleveland including Greenhouse Tavern, Muse, Amp 150, Moxie and more. All of these places must step aside for local legend Tommy’s in Coventry. Why is Tommy’s the place where you must eat in Cleveland and the best meal you will have?

I will build my case with a quote from a tweet I made at the time of my dine: Listening to Tommy tell tales about his restaurant is inspiring. He is so passionate and loves what he does & his community. Tommy’s has always been a business that cares about it’s customers and community. In the eyes of most residents of this part of town, Tommy’s is the heart of Coventry. There is something for everyone – vegan, vegetarian, carnivore, omnivore, locavore, vegetarian, vegan, macrobiotic, and gluten-free eaters have plenty to choose from here. The decision to have such a varied menu is explained in a very matter of fact way by Tommy. He shared that he keeps adding to the menu because he customers want to eat these things and as long as he can make something they will like, he will try it. Health concerns, profit margins, ecological reasons or trends are all peripheral in the food world of Tommy’s. The customer comes first. The food comes a close second with anything else considered bonus points. This is not something that can be taught at CIA or Johnson & Wales, it is not something you can learn on The Food Network. Either you get and give it or you don’t. Tommy Fello cares deeply about his restaurant, employees, customers, community and anything within this sphere. To have anything other than the best for anyone is unfathomable. Love is the magic ingredient at Tommy’s and it is infused into every aspect of the menu.

Mention Tommy’s to a Clevelander and you will hear the word milkshake within five to ten seconds. Not long after Tommy’s opened in 1972, Rolling Stone anointed Tommy’s as having the best Milkshake east of the Mississippi. There has been no evidence to dispute this in almost forty years. Here are some of the secrets to the magic of Tommy’s milkshakes. The ice cream comes from local ice cream maker Pierre’s. The milk comes from Hartzler Dairy (an organic cow farm in Wooster). The milkshakes are shaken and mixed in old milkshake machines. The thump-thump of a shake poured from the steel mixing cup to a glass is music to my ears. I proclaimed the Chocolate Peanut Butter milkshake the true Breakfast of Champions. In addition to all of the diary goodness I have mentioned, Tommy’s makes their own peanut butter, which is the star of another dish I devoured.

Readers that follow me know that breakfast is not my meal of choice. I am happy to eat breakfast at Tommy’s anytime. In part, because both the restaurant and I count a milkshake as a valid breakfast selection. I ordered Elise’s combo. This is not named after the forgotten Borden Dairy cow but after the first customer that ordered this creation (most of the selections on the menu get their names from customers/creators). The combo is a toasted triple decker sandwich with two eggs, bacon, mayonnaise, American cheese and homemade peanut butter. Yes, peanut butter. It is really good – decadent, satisfying and wholesome at the same time. I could be wrong on my opinion of Elise’s greatness but the thousands of other customers that choose this as their breakfast are clearly correct.

The menu is gigantic so I will just mention a few more highlights from the selections. The mention of Tommy’s often brings up another word – falafel. Tommy learned the recipe for falafel from his first boss (the guy he bought the original Tommy’s from). Many people say this is the best falafel ever. It is definitely served in the most varieties anywhere. There are over a dozen falafel sandwich and meal selections on the menu with additions including BBQ sauce, sesame sauce and a variety of vegetables.

Here are some random facts that might make you feel good about Tommy’s: The drinking water is filtered, fry oil is non-hydrogenated, soups are made every day, their canola oil waste is given to biodiesel folks, there is a backdoor garden and Tommy’s is the largest consumer of Muenster cheese in northeast Ohio slicing, shredding and serving 680 pounds or more per week.

Would you like some more reasons? Attached to the restaurant is a great bookstore called Mac’s Backs so you can read or browse while you wait to graze. Everything is made from scratch tofu, tempeh, stocks, cookies, etc. The Italian sauce recipes are handed down from Tommy’s mommy. Tommy’s may have the best vegetarian French Onion soup in the world made from a base of Shitake mushrooms and chickpea drippings.

Are you hungry yet? Do you have the keys for your car? What time are you picking me up? Yes, this is a place to feel excited about going to. If you have to wait for a table or if you need to burn off calories after your meals, you will find much to hold your interest in Coventry. The neighborhood created itself during the counterculture of the 1960’s and 1970’s. The Coventry community spirit remains today in a very big way. If you run into a resident of Coventry Village (which is just a few streets) you will hear many stories about Tommy – how he used to plow the sidewalks in the winter or other actions he took to support local business. If you ask Tommy he will say the same about his neighbors, he knows them all. The first person he mentions is Steve (the unofficial ambassador of Coventry) at the store Big Fun just a few sidewalk segments from the front door of Tommy’s

Big Fun is FUN. It is packed with nostalgic toys, comics, vintage video game systems, wacky t-shirts and more. If it was something that made you happy as a kid, then Big Fun probably has it or will someday. Every trip in offers something new, different or forgotten. A current Big Fun T-shirt creation is “Cleveland, You’ve Got To Be Tough.” This shirt was seen on Anthony Bourdain while he was roaming around a jungle in South America. You will see a lot of “tough” Clevelanders roaming around with and without these shirts. They have taken some hits and they keep going. In Coventry, they are tough too. A group of people created and sustained a community with tenacity and a lot of kindness to each other. They are still at it every day – serving food and fun to neighbors and visitors alike.

Tommy’s Restaurant
1824 Coventry Road, Cleveland Heights
(aka Coventry Village, East Side)
216.321.7757

Tommy’s
Mac’s Backs
Big Fun
Coventry Village

Tommy's on Urbanspoon

Posted in breakfast, CLEGourmand, Diners, kid friendly dining, Ohio, Road Trip, sandwiches | Tagged: | 7 Comments »

Donalds Donuts: Best in Ohio

Posted by cmh gourmand on June 20, 2010

Any drive on I 70 could be described as mission oriented. The interstate from one side of the state to the other was designed to get people from point A to point B without distractions or delay. This is how I treat that long stretch of road, it is flat, featureless and has nothing to draw my attention. There is one exception. I will set aside fifteen minutes to veer from my course at exit 153 (OH 60 N, OH 146 W). This is not for the thrill of seeing the sign for OH 666, my designated destination in Zanesville is Donald’s Donuts. These are the best damn donuts in Ohio (DK Diner being a very close second).

I discovered Donald’s Donuts by accident. I had ten minutes to kill before a business meeting and spied the shop near my turn off. Donald’s is an old school donutery (I made up that word, I may put it on Wikipedia). It is a classic donut shop with a lime green awning and mid 20th century mass produced structural nothingness. There is a counter inside that seats ten. The original shop opened in 1960. The current location is spot number two but the building looks like it was fabricated in the 1960′s or earlier.

The staff know all of their regulars by name as well as by donut ordering preference. There is a Donald that works there but I am not sure if he is the original. Doing a dash of Donald’s internet sleuthing I found this reference: Don Warne is The Donut GOD. I can not disagree with this pronouncement. After a careful and deliberate study of Donald’s donuts, I have yet to be disappointed by any selection.

Donald’s offers an assortment of thirty or so donut styles. The shop excels in the cake donut category. These are dense, flavorful, fresh and serve as an excellent foundation for the maple cream frosting that Donald’s uses on a few items. It is fitting that Donald’s is on Maple Avenue because their icing is so good that the street would have been named so by decades of appreciative fans.

The cinnamon honeybuns are made in small batches and sell out before 10am. There is also an item that is just refered to as sticks. These long, twisty, donuts have a hint of cinnamon and are coated in the maple cream frosting. These are so good that @CMHTobias, a dog that has never shown any interest in donuts during our six year relationship, ate two while I was filling the car with gas. (The devestating heartbreak I felt when he closed the donut box with his nose and licked the maple frosting from his snout cannot be described, but it was a very, very low moment for me). An under the radar award winner are the slower selling buttermilk donuts. A woman donut docent behind the counter said these were mostly unappreciated by the Donald’s loyalists.

I did have a Paczki (a filled Polish donut) here during Lent that was one of the finest doughed delicacies I have ever consumed. I have had a few Paczki’s over the years. I had high hopes for this donut variant and was very disappointed by each of them. The Donald’s Paczki wiped the slate of shame clean and allowed me to appreciate this Polish pleasuremaker.

When I stop at Donald’s I usually get two cake donuts with maple frosting and peanuts and whatever looks fresh from the fryer. Their damn good donuts rarely survive more than two exits after I get back on I 70.

Donald’s Donuts
2622 Maple Ave (OH 60 N)
Zanesville
740.453.4749

Hours:
5am to 6pm, Monday to Saturday
6am to Noon on Sunday

(If one was focused and traffic cooperates the drive from downtown Columbus to Donald’s could be completed in under one hour. I am just saying.)

Posted in bakery, breakfast, donuts, Ohio Donut Trail, Road Trip | Tagged: | 6 Comments »

DK Diner Donuts

Posted by cmh gourmand on January 19, 2010

I don’t get excited about breakfast since it is the meal that takes stomach space and money away from lunch and dinner. However there are a few exceptions that deserve discussion. In my book donuts go with any meal but for some reason they seem most associated with breakfast. With that disclaimer, here is the downlow on DK Diner and their donuts.

Many people I know rave about DK diner as a breakfast and lunch spot. Their reasons vary but the good feelings about the place are consistent and persistent. The common thread in all discussions is DK Diner donuts. People LOVE them. I was a bit skeptical about this. How could a place that is not a bakery or a donut specialist make such a drool worthy fried dough product? I am not sure of the how or why but I do know this, these are the best donuts in Franklin County.

DK Diner is a small place in Grandview. Looking at the building, it’s past life was probably as a garage or gas station. The inside seats about 40 and the interior would best be described as nondescript diner decor. One wall is plastered with propaganda from community sports teams and schools. Eating here is a lot like eating at a friends house. Service would best be described as a relaxed version of laidback. The staff seem to be hanging out here as much as working. Beverages are all self-serve and the orders come flying off the grill so fast you don’t even have time to establish a bond with the employees.

DK All the Way aka the heart attack starter

The breakfast and lunch are served here is standard diner fare. I did stick around for breakfast. I tried the DK All the Way which seemed to be the best way to gauge the quality of the food since it features about 1/2 of their menu. This dish consists of two soft chewy biscuits, each topped with a slice of ham and a fried egg covered with sausage gravy and surrounded by home fries. This was quite good. However it is time to get back to the donuts.

Damn, those donuts were good! During my time at the counter I noticed one common denominator among every customer. They each ordered a lot of donuts. There is a small selection of donuts by the cash register. I doubt there are ever more than 100 in the display case at any time. The selections include (the varieties are unmarked): blueberry, cinnamon, cruller, old fashioned cake, cream filled, Devils Food and maybe a few others. These fresh fried pastries appear to crafted in small batches. They would best be described as irregularly shaped (in some cases deformed), each one looks different from the other unlike the more uniform appearance I have seen at any other donut shop I have visited. The donuts are dense and chewy with a perfect crispy, crunchy crust on the outside.

See the bottom right corner, the first woman to bring me three of these gets my hand in marriage

Somehow looking at these unassuming handmade pastries I knew they were going to rock my socks off. I ordered one of each and spent the next twenty four hours sampling them looking for evidence that they were not the best donuts I have ever had. Exhaustive research on my part could only conclude that these are indeed the best donuts in central Ohio. I appreciate the public service that DK Diner offers by serving meals to the community but if they want to focus exclusively on donut sales that would be OK with me. My favorite of the box was the old fashioned cake donut with chocolate frosting and peanuts. I would really like to have one right now. Ummm donut…..

Where to find the donuts:

DK Diner
1715 West 3rd Ave
Grandview Heights
614.488.5160
Call for hours.

D K Diner on Urbanspoon

Posted in bakery, breakfast, Diners, donuts | Tagged: , | 11 Comments »

Breakfast with Nick at Beechwold Diner

Posted by cmh gourmand on January 10, 2010

Some readers may have noticed that I don’t often write about the morning meal. The reason is breakfast is my fifth favorite meal (CMH Gourmand dining order of operations: Dinner, Lunch, Second Lunch, Brunch, Breakfast). Fortunately for me and you, there is a blog about Breakfast in Columbus called Breakfast with Nick. Suzzie’s Beechwold Diner opened on January 2nd. Since the place is in my neighborhood, within walking distance even, I felt an obligation to investigate. Nick lives in the Clintonville as well so we joined forces to check things out. Since breakfast is not my forte I will defer to Nick’s review which you can read HERE.

The Beechwold Diner is a big deal in the neighborhood. Clintonvillites lament about a dearth of dining options in our community (although I would like to see more places, I must say we have a good selection, especially if one gets creative and includes Sage which is on the border). This diner is in the space previously occupied by Rube’s Diner a popular spot in the 1990′s which closed in 2005. The place was then labeled as Gina’s Eatery for almost three years but a combination of mishaps and misfortunes keep Gina’s from ever serving the public. Business looks good for the Beechwold Diner so far although open for less than two weeks a core of regulars has already developed and if I am not mistaken they have a former Rubes waitress working for them.

Breakfast sandwich (sausage, egg and cheese on Texas Toast in the foreground) with potatoes and sausage gravy with biscuits in the back.

On opening day no one showed for the first hour. After that, it was standing room only for 4 hours. Business has remained brisk. The diner serves standard breakfast fare and lunch time staples of soups, sandwiches and salads. There are daily specials and Hillbilly steaks (Ohioans my know this as a bolonga sandwich) to entice people looking for a change of pace. Housemade pies and cakes are made daily as well.

While the menu may be of the greasy spoon genre the space is far from that. Everything is new inside: fresh paint, new stainless steel everything, seven brand new booths and a dozen stools at the granite/marble counters.

Nick taking a photo post breakfast

I have known Nick for over a year now. We have collaborated on food related events at Wild Goose Creative and we are currently working on an event known as Beercamp! Dining with a fellow food writer is always a treat. There are certain unwritten rules for the trade which can be a bit awkward for people that just eat to eat. These are some of the rites we observe: sharing plates, order strategically from the menu to avoid overlap and to maximize the diversity, no one eats before the photos are taken and we ask the staff a lot of questions. As a result I was able to introduce Nick to the concept of chocolate cake for breakfast. We also spoke in depth about the culture and mores of breakfast and diners as well as their meaning to our community and communities everywhere. Speaking of community, there was not much buzz on the Beechwold Diner prior to opening. Their marketing approach was very DIY and included dropping off a flyer at many business locations along Indianola.

After our meal, we went on to do a recon mission at another eatery that is home to the Great American Pecan Roll and a giant three pancake eating challenge. That is another story.

If you would like to support a new business for breakfast and lunch here is where you can go:

Suzzie’s Beechwold Diner
4408 Indianola Ave
Beechwold (The Northern Canton of Clintonville)
614.447.0944
Hours
Monday to Saturday 6 am to 2 pm
Sunday 7 am to 2 pm

Beechwold Diner on Urbanspoon

Posted in breakfast, Clintonville, Diners | Tagged: | 4 Comments »

Back to Banana Bean

Posted by cmh gourmand on October 16, 2009

Banana Bean Cafe
340 Greenlawn Ave
The undefined space that is south of the Brewery District and west of German Village.
443.2262

Banana Bean Cafe

The original Banana Bean spot has been replaced by a place called Skillet. The new Banana Bean has been open about a year and recently did a minor menu overhaul. It is time for an update on my trips back to Banana Bean. Let us begin with some history and background.

The first version of Banana Bean opened in 2006 in Schumacher Place, just across the border from German Village. The small cozy cafe with non traditional hours (closed at 7:00 PM – WTFrak) fast became a favorite of mine and many others. Banana Bean was and still is the only Floribbean eatery in Columbus. So are they fibbin’ about Floribbean – not according to Wikipedia. This style is a fusion of the flavors of the Florida Keys, Cuban, Jamaican, and Carribbean cuisines. For me, this creates the perfect spot when I am undecided – if I am not sure what country or style of meal I am in the mood for, Banana Bean takes the pressure to choose away. Different tastes blend together to create many memorable menu items. The Arnold Palmer is a mix of iced tea and lemonade, the perfect beverage for the undecided.

So what else has changed? Banana Bean (2.0) is almost the antithesis of the old residential cozy cafe. The restaurant is now west of German Village on Greenlawn with plenty of parking and a patio. The space is big with plenty of room to spread out and about. Another new addition, Banana Bean has booze. The old location was alcohol free. Now choices include cocktails, wine and bevy of beers. The best deal is at happy hour (Monday – Friday, 4-7 pm) with $2 Margaritas.

The neighborhood feel is gone (one past use of the new site was a strip club) as is the cozy connection with the small pool of servers (and the cooks to some extent due to proximity). The void is filled with a living room lounge feel, complete with fireplace as well as an outdoor patio to pretend you are near a beach vs. the TV feed to the Keys used to tease you at the original cafe.

Banana Bean on Greenlawn

Banana Bean on Greenlawn

While the feel (but not feeling) is gone, the food remains the same: unique, flavorful and fun. So let’s move on to the main course – eating. I will use exact words from my original review to describe the Cuban Sandwich. The #1 Little Havana Cubano is among the number one best sellers for lunch. This sandwich stacks citrus kissed pork tenderloin and sweet bolo ham with Emmenthaler Swiss cheese, dill pickle slices and Dijon in between two crunchy slices of Cuban bread.. This is still executed the same. The same goes for my default brunch or default dessert item – Bananas Foster French Toast features thick slices of Cuban style bread perfectly transformed into French Toast with fresh berries; Captain Morgan spiced rum sauce, bananas, and a dollop of whipped cream. Still the same.

Banana Bean Bananas Foster French Toast

Banana Bean Bananas Foster French Toast

What else does Banana Bean do well? A lot, but let’s go off the griddle with some unexpected selections. We begin with grits. What is a grit a Midwesterner may ask? Is it a nebulous magazine from the 1970′s, a movie, or food. Yes, the answer is food. The key to good grits is what gets added to the mix since the core corn porridge components are always the same. Banana Bean adds goat cheese to open the grit gateway for the uninitiated. Another unexpected combination is chicken and waffles normally found in the South and southern California. The extra allure of this dish is the blend of flavors – buttermilk fried chicken breast on an almond Belgian waffle with apricot honey syrup, it is hard to be more diverse than this concoction.

Crab Cakes

Crab Cakes

Banana Bean has your back for breakfast, lunch and dinner. And now with more space you can add in an after hours drink and a snacky snack or two before moving on to German Village, the Brewery District, softball (across the street) or your yacht on the ocean blue.

Funky Fact: The Patina of Key West???
That’s what the sign said at Banana Bean.

What the owners said (when I e-mailed them back in the day):
“patina” in the literal sense is brought on by exposure to certain atmospheric elements; we feel that our patrons, therefore, are exposed to the elements and atmosphere of establishments that one would find in South Florida/Key West, i.e., our menu, etc…….

Banana Bean Cafe on Urbanspoon

Posted in bar, breakfast, restaurant reviews, restaurants, Vegetarian Friendly | Tagged: , | Leave a Comment »

Tip Top Kitchen & Cocktails…and Brunch

Posted by cmh gourmand on July 8, 2009

The Columbus Foodcast crew dropped in at Tip Top to talk with Tim Lessner. Tip Top has been open just over two years and continues to cater to customers with fan friendly tweaks to the menu and beer selections. The latest additions are a weekend brunch and Barley’s beer on tap. Tim gave us an update on all things Tip Top – click HERE to hear the full interview on Columbus Foodcast.

Tip Top Kitchen and Cocktails
73 East Gay Street
Downtown
221.8300
Tip Top link

Here are some highlights of our afternoon with Tim at Tip Top.

Tip Top unveiled a weekend brunch menu which is available 11 AM to 4 PM. I broke my fast with some of the fare.

Comfort Quesadilla:
scrambled eggs, Swiss cheese and avocado folded into a grilled
whole wheat tortilla, served with hash browns

Sweet Potato Hash and Black Eyed Peas:
diced sweet potatoes, onions, black eyed peas,
bell peppers, jalapeno, cilantro and thyme all grilled together in perfect harmony with two scrambled eggs and toast.

The full menu is online at the Tip Top web site.

I sampled the new Barley’s beer which adds to an already strong Ohio and regional micro beers selection.

Tim served as a tour guide for the rooftop garden. This is the second season. Plantings for 2009 include herbs, peppers and tomatoes as well as watermelon. The produce is integrated into the food and cocktail menu at the restaurant. The original genesis of the garden came from purchases made at the Pearl Alley Market.

We discussed the decor of the restaurant – the original old character of the bar was restored when Tip Top opened. Diana Lessner (Mom) worked with the Ohio Historical Society to gather local history in the form of postcard, photos, playbills, etc., to promote, preserve and protect the history of downtown Columbus past and present for future Tip Top diners.

Tip Top also has a small but vibrant patio which is the perfect hangout for late night loungers or in my case – a perfect Sunday afternoon with a breeze and a beer. There is a lot going down on Gay Street (including new parking meters that take credit cards) and the patio is the perfect place to watch everything.

Thanks to Tour guide Tim for an informative afternoon of eating, drinking, podcasting and a good tip on a Simon Pegg DVD.

Posted in bar, beer, beverages, breakfast, restaurants | Leave a Comment »

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