CMH Gourmand

Culinary Discovery & Misadventures in the Ice Cream Capital of the World (Columbus)

Archive for the ‘culinary knowledge’ Category

« Previous Entries

Street Meat Myths: An Editorial

Posted by cmh gourmand on January 11, 2012

Disclaimer:

The opinions expressed in this work are my own and should not be construed as the views of my friends, family, anyone who employs me or uses me as a consultant, current or ex-girlfriends, definitely anyone that dislikes me or the citizens of Singapore. The opinions are probably shared by my dog. My opinions are clearly well-reasoned, insightful and may be a staggering work of genius.

As for you as a reader of this blog, I know I am preaching to the choir.

Recently there was an article in The Columbus Dispatch about placing Food Trucks in Franklinton as a means to help grow an area of town looking for a boost and to create a few jobs. Neat idea, everyone wins. Hooray!

Well…no. There is a vocal minority in our city who have a deep-seated hatred for mobile food. There is also a sizeable apathetic majority who don’t care one way or the other.

This is not a surprise to me. I have encountered these concerns since 2009 when Andy, Bethia and I started the Taco Trucks Columbus website. From our perspective we were sharing a hidden part of Columbus culinary culture with the world. The number and the quality of Taco Trucks in Columbus sets our city apart from any city in the Midwest and most in the country. It has drawn nationwide attention. It puts Columbus on a map. It proves our city has diversity. The food is VERY good.

But to some people, this does not matter. Many detractors have never eaten at a Taco Truck yet they are fast to make all types of allegations about the legitimacy of these businesses. In my experience these accusations were often just thin veils for racism. Harsh words but true.

The non Taco Truck scene of Street Food is on the upswing in Columbus. We are looking at the sophomore year of the new wave of Mobile Fooders this spring. Even with the additional diversity to our Street Meats, there is still some strong negative feedback. The best example from last year involved Yerba Buena. This trailer is the mobile expansion of a very popular Venezulan restaurant called El Arepazo. The trailer set up on a vacant property in the middle of Clintonville with the permission of the property owner. It was enjoyed by the community. And then reports of complaints were forwarded by a Clintonville Area Commissioner. This came as a surpise by many in the neighborhood since north Clintonville has limited restaurant options and the food served by Yerba Buena was considered very good. There is some speculation that the “many” complaints came from one person. Considering I had a conversation about mobile food with person speculated as the one man army of complaint generation before Yerba Buena hit the scene in Clintonville, I am inclined to agree that the concerns were single-minded….from a single person. Yerba Buena had to move to a less customer friendly location and due to less foot traffic, they has to shut down early for the season. This was a loss for Clintonville which has developed an under the radar mobile food scene. As a very interesting aside, I would like to point out that there has been a mobile food operation located at Blenheim and Indianola (in Clintonville) for over a decade. This operation (less than a mile from the original location of Yerba Buena) received no reports of complaints. Was Yerba Buena targeted? Maybe. An additional note. I live in Clintonville. My neighbors want mobile food since there are limited locations and opportunities to open traditional brick and mortar restaurants in our neighborhood.

Am I biased about this topic, absolutely, however, that does not negate my ability to use reason and good sense. I have been deeply invested in the world of mobile food for over two years. I know it is not a fad. It is a resurging style of business that is trending more now to the mainsteam due to a limping economy. Is Mobile Food good for our communities and our local economies? Yes. I say this without reluctance or reservation.

I now make a living by helping people start a mobile or non mobile food business. I see people literally everyday who have a dream and a desire to build something of their own. I get to help most of them do that. For many going mobile is the only way that can realize that dream. The costs to start a new brick and mortar restaurant are beyond the budgets of most of the 99% and too risky for most banks. I am a board member of the Central Ohio Restaurant Association, I am not going to support anything to break a brick and mortar restaurant business. Mobile food is not a threat to brick and mortar businesses, in fact it can be a boon. Many established restaurants are looking for ways to make mobile work for them by having their own mobile operations. Columbus is considered by many to have one of the hottest food truck scenes this side of the Mississipi. As a city, we have the opportunity to support this concept and add it to the identity of Columbus. Unfortunately, there is a vocal minority who are not on board and seem intent on derailing any efforts to make our city a mobile food destination.

Mobile Food also allows a business person to take a risk on a menu concept or a part of town that no one else is willing or able to do. New businesses mobile or brick and mortar bring new life and vibrancy to forgotten parts of town. This is currently going on in Old Town East.

OK. Take a break and a stretch then come back to keep reading because I am just getting started.

Now back to The Columbus Dispatch article.

There were some supportive comments, but most were, well. read for yourself. I am copying the less inflammatory comments in italics and responding to and debunking each.

This should be combined with Coleman’s gang-control xbox events at the community centers. Park ‘em outside the rec centers and let everyone experience the brilliance that is Columbus. Seriously though, taco and fancy desert trucks parked in front of an empty ghetto store front aren’t about to attract many into the hoods – where do these people get these ideas…. and why is the Dispatch dumb enough to print them? oh that’s right, Portland did it!

Hmm, a new food concept attracting people to the hoods (or anywhere)? Could it happen? Yes. Once upon a time there was a place in Columbus called the Short North. In the 1980′s, it was a seedy part of town. A couple of businesses took a chance and planted roots along High Street. One of these pioneers was Rigsbys Kitchen. People came. The area grew. How did they attract people to this area? One idea was to have a Gallery Hop once per month. Other examples where mobile food has helped grow and area down on its luck: South Congress neighborhood of Austin, Texas, Oakland, California and Cleveland.

Hmm. New, independent food business sets up in a part of town coming off the skids, add some art and…..the Short North has a rebirth. Wacky, crazy. How could FOOD+ART=Progress?

“Portland did it!”
Yes they did and minus a few speed bumps its has worked well and added to the identity of the city. You know what else I want Columbus to steal from Portland….more bike lanes and microbreweries.

This is another way to blight an area. Food trucks come in and take business from brick and mortar eating establishments and some will go out of business. This is another bone head move. Don’t let it happen.

The people I have spoken with in Franklinton don’t share this view. There are limited dining options in Franklinton, especially in the evening and weekends. There is a need for more food choices and a desire to grow, nurture and support new, small independent businesses. I know and have spoken with two Franklinton area restaurant owners. They are not concerned about losing business to a food truck, they want more people to come to Franklinton…because they care about the community and have a desire to attract new customers as well. Statements about food trucks killing a brick and mortar restaurant are frequently made, but to date, I have yet to have anyone give me a real life example where this happened….anywhere.

What a moron idea that is. Is it art or food or what? Anyway it cheapens an area to see skanky taco trucks parked. What about health concerns and are they paying taxes? This is unfair to restaurants who follow all of the rules.

Let’s start with health concerns.

Taco Trucks (an all mobile vendors) are inspected by the Columbus Board of Health. Each truck should display a green Columbus Health Department Color Coded Inspection Sign with the date of the last inspection. Inspections occur at least once per year, just like any restaurant or food supplier. Taco Truck owners must have a peddlers license as well.

Health Department Tested, CMH Gourmand Approved

Health Department Tested, CMH Gourmand Approved

A yellow health department tag means the truck has been warned about a health code issue and is on probation while they implement recommended changes – so menu items may be limited. A red sticker indicates a major health code violation and the business is closed.

Mobile food vendors, including taco trucks, can get a bad rap. Hot dog carts and hamburger stands fought these same stereotypes in the 20th century as they evolved into American icons. How many restaurant kitchens have you seen? This writer has seen some very scary kitchens behind closed doors. Mobile Food vendors operate open kitchens – customers can see every step in the preparation process for start to serving time. If you are wary of a truck – order the cheapest item – watch how it is prepared. If something gives you the creeps – pay, walk away and call the Health department, cut your losses and move on to the next truck. The owner of the truck is often the one cooking your food. He or she depends on repeat business to stay in business and cleanliness is the key to happy customers and health inspectors. The inspectors make regular spot checks on mobile food vendors just as they do for restaurants, grocery stores, fair food stands and elsewhere. So the answer is: mobile food operations are as clean as any other food you eat and in this case – at least you can see it before you eat it.

And….part two: are they paying taxes? This is unfair to restaurants who follow all of the rules.

Do mobile food vendors pay taxes. Yes. They also pay rent, buy liability insurance, fork over cash for a peddlers permit, sign on the dotted line for several licenses and inspections with the city Health and Public Safety Departments, buy gas at your local gas station, purchase food from local purveyors and follow the same guidelines and expectations as a restaurant. If mobile food operations don’t follow the rules, they get cited and go out of business quickly.

What a wonderful idea..to consider a bunch of itinerant “roach coaches” as art. Ptomaine Tomas never had it so good. Just not quite like the present day Hawker Centres in Singapore. But, then the economic vitality is not quite the same in Columbus, OH either. There is no way a service based economy that Columbus has descended into will ever achieve the greatness of it’s long lost industrial/manufacturing economic base.

I am going to be snarky here. Read the article again – the trucks are not the art component of these plans. As for the other comments, well, they reflect the writer.

Too many restaurants are at their margin between staying afloat or going under. Hoggy’s just closed all but one location and these typhoid trucks on wheels want to serve food on the fly. No thanks.

Why are these restaurants going under? Hoggys was not put into receivership by a food truck nor has any other restaurant in Columbus. To my knowledge, I can not recall any food truck that has ever been in a mile of any Hoggy’s location. One reason restaurants go under….they are expensive to run and difficult to staff. The money that it takes to open a new restaurant in this economy is just not viable or sustainable for most people. Competition is good for any business as long as the playing field is fair. Most mobile operators would say the deck is more stacked against them than a brick and mortar restaurant when current city regulations and weather are considered….I agree.

The food trucks explosion has boomed in both downtown Cleveland and Fountain Square in Cincy but of course this is Columbus where it won’t be done properly and will get no support. Soooooo Columbus……

There is support, we just need to grow it. We can do this properly in Columbus and we can do this better than Cleveland, Cincinnati and any other city in the country with some minor tweaks in city legislation, good menu concepts and a zero tolerance for inaccurate and misleading statements that are presented as fact.

Those in the (real) food business know that food trucks are an invitation to problems. The lack of adequate running water and sewer service is an issue. Also many food trucks use many ice chests instead of refrigerators. Ice cannot keep food at the required temperatures as set by the health department standards. It would be safe to say mobile food trucks are not healthy.

I have been in the (real) food business. I still work with and represent people who are in the REAL food business. It is not safe to say mobile food trucks are not healthy…it is outright incorrect. All mobile operations are required to have a three compartment sink and a hand washing sink and they do. As for sewer service….I’m not sure how that is supposed to apply to this situation. Mobile carts are required to (and do) operate from a licensed commissary for food storage, grease and cooking oil disposal and such so they can comply with health and safety guidelines.

Part two: Also many food trucks use many ice chests instead of refrigerators.

Really? Which ones? This not something I have encountered. If so, it what ways were the ice chests used illegally or not in compliance to health code regulations. Again, food carts, trucks and trailers are inspected by the Health Department to make sure they are in compliance with the law (as are restaurants). Operators have to take a food safety class (I took it, it is good and offered in several languages). There are some “bad” mobile operators out there but in my observations the percentage is no higher than the “bad” restaurants. Vote with your pocketbook and if you have a legitimate concern report it, but don’t feed ignorance with assumptions and inaccurate statements.

A final serving of food for thought. When White Castle started in the 1920′s they dealt with many of the same myths of health issues, taxes, etc. These negative comments are a product of fear of something new and ignorance, these are rarely based on a real expereince.

And so ends my editorial.

-soapbox scooted away,
–lights dimmed,
—throat cleared in a dignified manner,
—- exit stage left.

Posted in culinary knowledge, Gastronomic Stimulus | Tagged: , , , | 13 Comments »

Green B.E.A.N. Delivery: My First Volley Against Winter

Posted by cmh gourmand on November 30, 2011

I have several friends who subscribe to CSA’s. I know a few people who grow food for, fill bags for and who are a bit disappointed that I have never gotten one of their CSA or market bags. Does that make me a bad person….yes. At the end of the last winter I discovered the power a giant pile of vegetables has to fight back against the weariness of the season (thanks again Chef’s Garden). This year, I am filling up my arsenal against winter “meh” early.

Green B.E.A.N. Delivery combines some aspects of a CSA with elements of some home delivery services. Unlike a traditional CSA, Green B.E.A.N. delivers all year. In contrast to home delivery, there is a core group of items you can expect to receive which you can add to or subtract from as long as the order total is $35 or more. You can order once or every week. They also have a new office bin program to deliver health snacks to offices.

Green B.E.A.N. services six Midwestern Metropolitan areas including Columbus (Cincinnati, Dayton, Ft. Wayne, Indianapolis, and Louisville too, if you are counting). The company started in 2007 with green goals including making “healthy and sustainably grown local food affordable, accessible, and convenient.” Based on my order, my observation is they are achieving their goals. As for the bean part – this is what it stands for: “B.E.A.N. is an acronym that represents our core initiatives; Biodynamic, Education, Agriculture, and Nutrition.”

Local produce and artisanal foods are sourced when possible. If not available respected organic purveyors and ecologically sound companies are sourced from. These were some of the familiar names I could include in my order: Stan Evans Bakery, Blue Jacket Diary, Frog Ranch Pickles and Salsas, Luna Burger, Shagbark tortilla chips and City BBQ sauces (yes, really). The rest of the selections are regionally or nationally sourced from brands suchs as Naked, Kashi and Bolthouse. Other than beverages (I would love someone to deliver beer and wine to my house) and toiletries/detergent I could fill about 90% of my typical store list via Greenbean Delivery. Looking at the price points for the add-on items, the service is still reasonable when time, gas and other intangible costs are factored in.

I came home from work last Thursday to find this on my porch –

Inside was a reusable styrofoam cooler to keep my food cool. There was also an ice pack sealed in a ziplock bag to protect my produce and dry goods from a leaky source of coldness. (As someone who has ordered ice cream online and received melting mess in response, these small touches make a big difference). For $35 this is what I received: 1 Edible Columbus Magazine (comes free if you want one), 1 pack of Stan Evan’s Crackers ($6.75), 1 F2K Cranberry Almond Bar ($2.50)((It was really good)), 2 Butternut squashes, 1 large bunch of carrots, green beans, 1 bag of Klamath Pearl Potatoes, 4 Gala apples, 3 Navel Oranges, 2 avacados, 2 limes, 1 bag of mushrooms and 1 large head of Romaine lettuce. I opted out of the onions from my order and did not request a replacement.

So, you can adjust the produce to some extent but similar to a CSA you may find yourself challenged by getting an array of items you may not select on automatic pilot at the store. (I am a creature of habit, you can predict what I will pick up at the store with 99% accuracy. Many who know me and know how much I eat out (um, this is for professional reasons people, I do it all for you) often wonder if I can cook. I can, my specialties are most notably the hot dog arts, chili and soups. But looking at what I received – nothing daunting. I made several salads. Lime + Avacado = Guacamole. Green beans and potatoes was a staple as a kid and the non fruit leftovers made for a good soup.

I ordered the small produce bin which is intended for two to three people. It was a bit too much for me but if I get the bin two to three times per month it should work out well for CMH Tobias and I. (P.S. Green B.E.A.N. Delivery, my dog would like to see some dog treats and organic, grass fed rabbit in your mix).

The final verdict? Would I order again, yes. For the month of January I can probably avoid leaving my house at all using Greenbean Delivery. That is a good idea because I have a lot of blog posts to wrap up.

To learn more about what Green B.E.A.N. Delivery does in the the community take a look at their Facebook page.

Greenbean website

Green B.E.A.N. Delivery Ohio website

Green B.E.A.N. Delivery on Facebook

Disclaimer / Disclosure:
(I was contacted by Green B.E.A.N. Delivery with an offer to try a bin for free. At the time I had a 50% off coupon for them from Baconcamp and I was deciding on when to use it. So I saw that as a sign to take action. I do not often write in exchange for a product and when I do, if I don’t care for it, then I don’t mention it. That is my policy on such matters.)

Posted in culinary knowledge, Vegetarian Friendly | Tagged: , | 3 Comments »

Hot Dog University: Serving Up The American Dream

Posted by cmh gourmand on May 24, 2011

In the heart of hot dog country, to be specific, at USDA site #0001, The Vienna Beef Factory, Chicago Illinois, Mark Reitman is teaching the art of the cart. After living a life on the bun he decided to teach the art and science of owning and operating a hot dog cart to a growing number of people looking to cook up their own business. Mark is a PH.D, (Professor of Hot Dogs) at Hot Dog University.

Hot Dog U is serving the American Dream in a two day class on all things hot dog. This is definitely a course where you do not mind spending time after class. Mark has been preparing for his professorship all of his life. He grew up in the hot dog culture of Chicago’s west side. His first hot dog was on Maxwell Street (the Mecca of Chicago Hot Dogs) at the age of five. In the 1950’s he worked soda fountain of his dad’s drug store. In high school he flipped burgers and mixed malts at a local landmark known as Henry’s Drive-In. During college, he worked the best job of his career as commissary manager for largest all-girl dormitory at school. He then worked as a teacher and school counselor while working side jobs as a salesman and pinch hitter for various food businesses owned by family and friends.

After decades of sales, schmoozing and deal making he could not convince his wife to open a hot dog stand with him so he asked if they could settle for a cart. In 2003, The Grateful Dog cart began serving to the public and Mark found that he had hit the mark for an independent business. People sought him out for tips and trade secrets for the art of the cart so he opened Hot Dog University in 2006. He started taking students to the Vienna Beef Plant to see and understand how hot dogs are made. As a result many of graduates began ordering and selling Vienna Beef hot dogs, which caught the attention of the company. In 2009, the Vienna Beef asked Mark to become part of the family and move the headquarters of Hot Dog U from Milwaukee to Chicago. Since it’s founding 500 plus students have graduated from Mark’s program. In 2010, 138 students passed through the hallowed halls of hot doggery at Vienna Beef. This year, added classes are continuing to fill up with people in search of the Amercian Dream.

In April, I was one of those students. I met Mark in 2008 when I was touring Vienna Beef as part of the Dirty Frank’s Chicago Hot Dog research project.

Since then, I have developed an in depth knowledge of Columbus Street food in the form of Taco Trucks and Mobile Vendors.

I am a believer in street food and mobile vending. It is a sign of the times. While we might not be able to afford a steak nowadays we always seem to find time and money for a tubesteak. That is reality that inspires people to follow their dreams of being their own boss in the form of a hot dog cart. As our society and economy come full circle to the eras that celebrated the hot dog, the depression sandwich, (as the hot dog was known in the 1930’s) is seeing a resurgence. The hot dog, economical eating and a budget friendly start up business go hand in hand during our own hard times.

The seven other students in my class came from around the country: New Mexico, South Carolina, Michigan and two sides of Chicago. We also had one student “stuck in Effingham” for most of the first day fighting snow and train delays. Everyone had a different story for enrolling in class. Every reason was a reflection of our new world – people need or want to take a risk to make a new life but something with limited risk and a proven track record is more appealing, especially for the culinary impaired. Mark made sure to cater the class to the needs and experience level of his students including his first ever mobile food truck vendor (as Mark and I agreed…the times they are a changing and the bigger the wheels the more hot dogs you can sell).

Mark started with a frank discussion on running a small business. Any good businessperson needs to know their product. We donned our lab coats and hairnets for our first field trip. Since the pedigree of hot dogs has been poked fun at since their inception, we took a three-hour tour of the Vienna Beef plant to understand what makes an encased meat a hot dog. Mark became the Willy Wonka of Wieners during our magical meatery tour. We started with freshly butchered cuts of meat being cut by hand and followed those cuts of beef as they were sliced, diced, grinded, grinded again, encases, cooked, smoked and packaged. We never had to ask, “Where’s the Beef?” Throughout the tour were instructed on hot dog science and terminology: skinless vs. natural casing, 9:1, 8:1, 6:1, 5:1 and 4:1 hot dogs (graduates know what that means), what makes a hot dog snap, the difference between lamb/sheep linings and hog linings (parts are not just parts they have a purpose) and more. Mark led us to the test lab to try out a wide variety of hot dogs made at the plant and cooked different ways. We then watched the packaging process and visited the specialty departments before heading to the cafeteria for lunch… hot dogs of course. To say we were fully immersed in our first half day of class would be an understatement.

Vienna Beef is an amazing wonderland of meat. Not all hot dogs are created equal (or even made with the same stuff). It is hard not to respect the commitment and adherence to tradition this family operated company maintains for their product. Vienna Beef hot dogs cost more but there is good sense for paying the extra cents. You do get what you pay for in the world of hot dogs. In addition to a variety hot dogs and sausages; the plant also produces 100 soups and six types of chili for retail and commercial businesses.

We headed back to the classroom for a whirlwind of information on choosing and outfitting a cart, permits, food safety, the proper temperature for (re) cooking a hot dog, finding a base station, pricing, marketing and more. My notebook, course manual and brain were as stuffed as a Polish sausage with information as I headed out of the class at the end of the first day.

On day two, we met at Restaurant Depot to walk through the store using the seasoned eye of a street-smart street meat vendor. Mark instructed us on what to buy, what equipment to use and purchase, how to look at hot dog packaging labels to determine a plethora of information about the quality of the hot dog and a countless list of do and don’t for operating a cart. For example, tongs do matter. Get two sets and make sure they are springless. Don’t trust me on this, take it from Mark, he can give you ten reasons why. Don’t put the cart before the course if you can help it because knowing what is needed and how to equip a cart is going to save a new owner time and money and countless mistakes. Mark advises students not to buy a cart until after they take the class and time and time again, the sage wisdom of this was proven in our discussions. I walked out of Restaurant Depot armed with knowledge everything I would need to buy on day one of hot dog slinging, how much my equipment would cost and what to do with it…..or at least what not to do.

The next part of class was the final exam: cooking hot dogs. We set up a cart in the Vienna Beef parking lot then had Mark run us through everything from start to finish. We steamed buns, grilled and simmered hot dogs and sausages, checked our water temperature and learned the art of selecting the right music for peddle our wares.

We headed back to class after lunch for more advanced hot dog studies. Mark is a brainstormer and barnstormer when in comes to cart marketing. He explains how to use the five senses to sniff out business for your hot dogs. Hot dogs elicit an emotional response, to the right side of our brains. The smell of a hot dog and the primary colors with it (red and yellow) take us back to childhood (and if that grew up in Chicago takes you back to the neighborhood you grew up in). Owning your own business strikes an emotional cord too. Other practical tips are covered as well such as stocking the right beverages. The type of soda selected is a demographic and geographic choice – you need to know your customer or you could be stuck with a cooler full of Grape Crush at a field hockey game. What is the most important factor in a successful hot dog cart (other than the personality and dog tired resolution of the hot dog vendor)? Location, Location, Location. The class covers location with a couple genius ideas I never thought of in two years of chasing street vendors in Columbus.

During our classes, the top dogs of Vienna Beef visited us. The Chicago Mob left town but not the sense of kinship that comes from doing business in the Windy City. In the most sincere and heartfelt tones we were told that Vienna Beef supported any business that sells their products and the examples given were not a haed sell. There is a true sense of family and everyone seems focused on wanting everyone new businessperson in this class to make their dream a reality.

So was the class worth it. For me, absolutely (it was free). However, I was there as both a writer and a potential mobile operator. I would pay the full price for the class just for what comes after your graduate: people who can answer any question about the business you have and are committed to helping you get the resources you need to solve any problems you might encounter along the way. My notebook was full of things to save money, as well as minutes, weeks and months of missteps and wrong turns by getting first hand advice from someone that was successful in the business.

As a parting gift, I am going to give one of Marks tips away (not a product endorsement). Ice Mountain plastic bottles are better because the labels are less likely to peel off in the icy water of a cooler. For my friends at Vienna Beef, Mark and the city of Chicago I should also state for the record….. never put ketchup on a hot dog. Thank you Hot Dog U for a useful education.

Say Hi to Hot Dog U on Facebook

There are a few places they sling a Chicago dog in Columbus.

Dirty Franks
248 South 4th Street
Downtown

Loops Good Food
Upper Arlington
1629 Northwest Blvd

Wholly Joes

Posted in culinary knowledge, hot dogs, Road Trip | Tagged: , | 4 Comments »

Summer Solstice Spricebush Celebration: at Jackie O’s, (Athens) June 18th

Posted by cmh gourmand on May 21, 2011

So you survived the rapture? Now get ready for the Solstice. Chris Chimel has a knack for taking something off the culinary radar and placing it in the center of attention. He took the lowly, forgotten Pawpaw and made it the state fruit Then he helped organize a festival to celebrate everything Pawpaw, including Pawpaw beer for three straight days. Not to be content with Pawpaw pushing, making creative goat cheeses, selling local foods and cranking out ramp crackers he and the Athens community turned their attention to the Spicebush.

In addition to celebrating the departure of students from OU, the Spicebush Celebration will offer education, Spicebush cooking demonstrations, Spicebush beer and foods, music and more. One of the best breweries in the state Jackie O’s is making the beer and hosting the inaugural event. Plus it is the Athens rural-metro area which is my favorite culinary region in the state. Go and celebrate the solstice southern Ohio style.

For more details check out Integration Acres

Chris is a pretty neat guy, to learn more about him and his works read this.

Posted in Athens, culinary knowledge, Road Trip | Tagged: , | Leave a Comment »

Tremont Goodie Shop: More Than Just A Bakery

Posted by cmh gourmand on May 11, 2011

And now for something completely different…… guest commentary.

Columbus is lucky to have a very large and devoted cadre of food enthusiasts with an unconscious agenda to grow good food in our city. Through exploration, education, encouragement, advice, allocating 40% or more of disposable income to the culinary arts and a good amount of twittering around, these people are guiding Columbus into a more food focused town. I am happy to call many of these people my friends. I am also happy that I can not count all of these movers and shakers with all of my fingers and toes. Indeed, there are that many people escalating eating forward, around and upside down in our town.

My friend Molly Kurth serves on the board of Slow Food Columbus and is vocal supporter of our food community especially her neighborhood haunts Basi Italia, Knead and Cafe Corner. Today she is sharing one of her favorite places since childhood. Photographs are by our mutual friend Kate Djupe who is a chef, photographer, gardener, canner and person extraordinaire.

Frosted Butter Star Cookies. Those four words evoke memories, flavors, moments and smiles for me in a way that few other foods do. Those little cookies, compliments of The Tremont Goodie Shop, represent more than just delicious little baked treats (and they are delicious!). They represent tradition and community and, for me, my childhood. My grandma would take us there on our weekend adventures, letting us pick out a treat or two and, for me it was always the frosted butter star cookie. Those cookies still bring a smile to my face every time I walk in the shop and I can hardly ever walk out without a few in a bag, eating them as I walk out the door.

If you have not experienced The Goodie Shop, let me give you an idea of what you are missing so you can hurry up and add it to your list of “Things I Must Try in Columbus”. Tucked in the Tremont Shopping Center, in an area one of my friends fondly calls the Bermuda Triangle of Arlington, is a business that is first and foremost a family. And, in case you wondered how a business can be a family, let me share a story with you. Back in 2009, The Goodie Shop was going through a transition that was going to force them to close for a few months. It was emotional for the family who had owned it for more than 50 years and it was a sad moment for those in the community who had gotten their birthday cakes, holiday rolls, weekend donuts or just a simple treat while they were in the area. I became one of the fierce advocates posting on Twitter and Facebook about the closing of The Goodie Shop and our hope that it would be saved by those who loved it most. Soon there were posts about selling t-shirts and coming out to support them as they made their best effort to repurchase everything at the mandated auction, which would occur after a community rally to save The Goodie Shop. The outpouring of community support and love was overwhelming, even to the casual observer and an emotional buoy for the people trying to save the business that had become a family for this community.

During the period of time that the shop was closed, my best friends from college were coming to town for our annual girls’ weekend, which was doubling as a baby shower for one of the girls. I was saddened that I would not be able to get my cake from The Goodie Shop and began the search for where I was going to go. In the midst of the search, the returning owners of The Goodie Shop (whose father had owned it years before) reached out and said “we’ll make it for you at our home – just send us pictures of what you want and we will meet you at the Chef-o-nette to pick it up”. Yep, that is what I mean by family.

So, fast forward to 2011, where I have a few friends who have *never* been to The Goodie Shop – what? I know. But instead of berating them (okay, there was a little of that), I organized a mini-tour of the Tremont Center, where we got to sample some of The Goodie Shops classic treats. Emilie Smith, whose mom Debbie Smith, owns the shop, did an amazing job putting together a tasting for us, letting us sample some of the beloved treats and even bringing in Snowville Creamery Milk for us to enjoy with the sweets. Emilie is successfully carrying on the legacy that was created by her grandfather, one that is rooted in the community and the traditions of so many families who grew up here.

So, I will leave you with a few of my favorite treats and hope that you discover a few of your own too:
Molly’s favorites:

Frosted Butter Star Cookies (buy several, trust me.)

Chocolate Frosted Long Johns and Classic Glazed Yeast Donuts
(get there early or pre-order the donuts, when they are gone, they are gone.)

6-Pan Cinnamon Rolls (a must-have for holiday mornings in our house)

Dinner Rolls
(choose your style, so good and one less thing you have to do for Thanksgiving dinner!)

Cream Horns
(light and flaky, one of the few places that still makes their dough from scratch!)

White cake with white Icing
– Miranda, one of Debbie’s daughters, does much of the decorating (if not all of it) and has made some awesome designs – you can check out the gallery online.

Tremont Goodie Shop
located in Tremont Center
2116 Tremont Center
Upper Arlington
614.488.8777
www.theoriginalgoodieshop.com
Hours: M-F 7a-6p; Sat 7a-5p; closed Sundays

Writer and Foodista Molly is a Columbus native who loves sharing her passion for the people and food in her community. After many years living away from Columbus, she is back and discovering how much cool stuff the city has to offer.

Posted in bakery, Columbus, culinary knowledge, desserts, donuts | Tagged: | 3 Comments »

Rusty Bucket Wrangles Rogue Root Beer

Posted by cmh gourmand on March 27, 2011

I get many incredible offers. Most come from people in African countries that will give me millions of dollars just to help transfer some money from their country to ours to cut down on paper work and avoid hassle for the estate of a deceased relative with a horribly misspelled name. Some offers come from Russian mail order brides and maybe related to that, it seems that there are some medications I should be taking, I that I can get cheaply. Maybe I should consider the mail order bride option.

The type of offers I would like to get would include: Hey, you are awesome and resourceful and blindingly creative, here is a job that does not suck; or yes you really should write for us, starting now, because you are not boring or pretentious. These offers don’t come and years of trying for them have not yet been productive.

So when the Rusty Bucket asked if I wanted to drink root beer and get some remuneration for my trouble I was curious. I read further. It seems that said root beer was Rogue Root Beer. That fact changed no thanks to yes, pretty please PDQ. As fate would have it, I had Rogue Root Beer in PDX (Portland) recently which was a highlight of five days that were a low point.

I get an interesting array of offers from the food industry that tempt my wallet and threaten to stretch the scope of my blog and my ethics. I almost always say no. The Rusty Bucket offer was perfect. I knew I liked the root beer. I did not know I could get it in Columbus so that knowledge was a gift to me. Rusty Bucket is a locally owned company and aligned with Cameron Mitchell Restaurants so I could support them without hesitation. I knew I was going to rush out for root beer anyway so for the price of gas and a mug of root beer – game on! Yes, I will write for root beer so here we go.

It seems that if you are planning on going Rogue, Columbus is the place to do it. Rusty Bucket charmed this Portland-centric purveyor of tasty drinks into sending most of it’s product line here for serving. This is unique for Columbus and Ohio and the Midwest and most of the country for that matter. The only other states that have Rogue Root Beer are Oregon and Washington. You can pretend you are in Portland while sitting inside 270.

I am not a big pop drinker (we say pop in Columbus, accept it, move on). I NEED to have a coke with pizza to complete the experience. However, I am an absolute sucker for a good Root Beer. I have invested a good deal of time searching for the perfect root beer experience. I found a few that are worth traveling for – Virgil’s Root Beer and Sioux City Root Beer were my brews of choice.

Why might you want to make the effort to try Rogue Root Beer? Because they make it right and because Rusty Bucket pours it right. Rogue approaches their root beer with the same attention to detail and devotion they invest in their craft beers. Their root beer is made with 100% pure dark brown sugar. It has a nice dose of Sassafras. This is draft root beer, served from a tap into a cold, frosted mug with just a bit of foaming head. It may be the most perfect root beer experience in town. Visions of childhood bike rides to the Clintonville A&W drive-in come to mind when I take a sip. To appeal to the child in you or the child tagging along with you, Rusty Bucket also offers kid sized mugs and root beer floats in both sizes.

If you want to completely go Rogue, Rusty Bucket serves several Rogue beers on draft. You can also sample Rogue’s other roguish spirits including Dead Guy Whiskey, Spruce Gin and White Rum. A daily drink special involves soaking a giant chunk of pineapple with brown sugar, vanilla beans and Rogue white rum, then adding some ice and more rum. Yum.

On Tuesdays, a featured drink is the Rogue Spruce Gin Gimlet. I had not been to Rusty Bucket for a while so I decided to try out multiple locations in my root beer research. For your first Rogue run I suggest trying out the Lane Avenue location and hoping that Katie is tending bar when you walk in. She knows all things Rogue and can talk you through your choices while you enjoy a frosty root beer.

Posted in bar, beer, beverages, culinary knowledge, restaurants | Tagged: , | 3 Comments »

If You Blog It, Will They Eat? Philosophy of CMH Gourmand

Posted by cmh gourmand on February 14, 2011

De gustibus non disputandum est: “there is no disputing about tastes.”

The implication is that opinions about matters of taste are not objectively right or wrong, and hence that disagreements about matters of taste cannot be objectively resolved.

Over the last year comments about the scope of my blog and other blogs as well as the viability of the Columbus Food scene have filtered in. There are many different expectations of what a blog should or should not cover. To each their own. However, it seems like a good time to do a Citizen Kane style statement to detail what I am all about.

I did freelance writing for years. When I started out I did some restaurtant profiles and a big ice cream article for Ohio Magazine. People started calling me a restaurant critic. That made me cringe. I have never taken to that term. I always preferred food writer. I was never interested in dissecting a restaurant. I was interested in finding something that was good, or even better, something great and trying to find what made it that way. What makes a place great? The answer was always the people serving the food and the regular customers that fed the desire of the owners to keep cooking.

I later had a freelance gig for CitySearch Columbus which started out great. But when editorship moved from Columbus, to Chicago, to LA and then somewhere else, I found that they wanted me to essentially write advertising for mediocre places. At the beginning I could pick places I wanted to write about. At the end, I was given a list of not so great places to push. That did not write right so I walked.

Since then, I have chosen what I wanted to write about in my own voice which makes writing a good experience instead of a chore. I still consider myself a food writer (although I have written about non food related topics) not a critic. I write about the places I like. When I have a bad meal my silence speaks the words I choose not to share. In my experience, readers do not need help finding a bad place. I have made several friends in the restaurant trade and I choose to not to write about their places because I can’t be objective (I reserve some of that bias for Twitter). I am a writer with a blog trying to keep writing not a blogger trying to figure out how to write.

Writing a review that trashes a place is pretty easy but also unfulfilling after a few sniper attacks. Writing a critical review that is objective and offers suggestions for improvement is more appealing but not something that I choose to do very often or in public. I have sent some suggestions in private to restaurants and this feedback has been well received. I am a supporter of our food community that is growing in Columbus and would rather guide my readers to what is good, or new, or at least has the potential to be good. I am interested in growing what is good instead of beating up on what is bad.

I am not a food snob or snoot. I know a little bit about wine and beer and just a tad of cocktail history. I know what I like but I don’t expect you to think the same. A $100 bottle of wine would have to be at least 5X better than a $20 bottle of wine for me to rave about it. My palate is not that refined, my disposable income lacks that depth and I don’t care to debate taste so my picks tend be based on value over the dollar sign and comfort over pedigree. Over time, you may come to trust my opinions and tastes. I am a food enthusiast and in a few cases an evangelist – if the product or place is worthy.

There are several great food blogs and writers in town. I think we work (unconsciously) collaboratively and collectively to tell people about our underappreciated treasures. There is not much competition in our cadre and for the most part we don’t promote or push our “brands” to the level we could or maybe should. My blog reads the same with 5 followers or 500.

I sometimes have opportunities to write about a new place or event for cash or perks. If I don’t like an offer or event, I decline. If I feel that the unwritten agreement is that I write something positive, then I decline as well. If I am paid or reimbursed for my writing then I disclose this in the post and/or write something that is informational (i.e. announcement) instead of something that may look like or read as a review. If a restaurant is newly opened, as a general rule, I will not write a review until they have had several weeks or months to work out the kinks. If I do a true restaurant review, then I aim to visit three times with a group of people so I can fully taste and evaluate the food, service and ambiance.

Our city has so many good places to shout out about. We have much that is still undiscovered. While our food community is not fully defined, it is good and sometimes very good. There are amazing people in our community growing something great so this deserves our support and attention. So just eat it and go back if your meal is good. If it is good, tell your friends. If it could be better make a suggestion and see what the response is before you pass a judgement. Let’s nurture and grow what is good instead of picking apart the weeds before they die.

Posted in Columbus, culinary knowledge | 4 Comments »

Acorn Bookshop: Cookbooks

Posted by cmh gourmand on January 30, 2011


I wanted to mention Acorn Bookshop for a long time. They just launched a website so now seems like a good time to plant a kernel of a thought to get people to drop by. This bookshop has always had a good collection of used cookbooks and cocktail guides. Most of the books are in excellent shape. Many have library lining on them with is great for people that like to read and cook concurrently. I always find some culinary treasure when I pop in.

Acorn is one of my favorite book sellers because of their service. It may be the friendliest bookshop I have visited in town. If you can not find what you are looking for ask – sometimes they have a stash behind the counter or in a hidden nook. They will always special order for you if they can locate the book you need. They will hold on to your request until it is filled – over a year if needed. You can also create a “want list” for you. If there is some special cookbook or other book you want – they will watch for it and let you know if it comes in.

In the non culinary sections they have strong rare book and James Thurber collections. So take a look at their website and drop in sometime to see what you might find.

Acorn Bookshop
1464 WEST FIFTH AVE
Grandview Heights
614.486.1860

Posted in culinary knowledge | 1 Comment »

Mediterranean Food Imports

Posted by cmh gourmand on January 20, 2011

Mediterranean Food Imports. The name says it all. We Clintonville insiders usually just refer to it as Mediterranean Imports or MI for short. This business has a long and hallowed history in our community. It’s roots dates back to a restaurant, Sinbad’s, which was a local favorite and the first bite of hummus and falafel for many in the early 1980’s. The restaurant gradually morphed in to a store with a restaurant then solely a store. (For those of you that still miss Sinbad’s, relatives opened Mazza in Grandview last year, check them out). The vast horde of merchandise at the bazaar that is MI largely hails from countries bordering the Mediterranean, with the very strong slant towards the Middle East. The store can be counted on to carry core staples at all times but I always seem to discover something new on each visit.

MI is located by Hounddogs Pizza and Sage on North High Street. It is best to enter MI via the shared parking lot in the back of the building. Do watch out for some of the surrounding lots because there is a tendency for one evil business owner in the area to tow with a vengeance. Entering through the backdoor, you are greeted by the diverse aromas of a very diverse market.

The meat counter is well stocked with a variety of Halal Meats (different from Kosher) including goat, leg of lamb and Mortadella. I have found the staff here to be very willing to talk in depth about their meats and they will offer suggestions when asked.

Moving down the counter, the next stop is for olives, there are sixteen or more varieties at any time. If you thought you had had your fill of Feta think again, there is a selection of fresh Feta cheeses from Egypt, Turkey, Bulgaria, France and Greece. You can also plan on other great items behind the counter including homemade hummus and desserts (several types of Halveh).

The MI business card I have reads “Middle Eastern, European, Persian, and North African foods” that is a fact. The cornucopia of foods from these countries is packed throughout the store. The shelves stock an impressive variety of dried beans, legumes, olives oils and hard to find canned and packaged food from the known world. If you like sardines – this is the place. If you like having a diverse assortment of dates, cheap access to dried limes and five grinds of Bulgar wheat, MI has you covered.

Locally and regionally made pita bread and flat breads are for sale. The spice rack would please the three wise men since it is stuffed with the standard spices as well as Frank Incense, Hibiscus flower, saffron (Persian and Spanish) and spices you may have only read about. The freezer section offers cheeses from everywhere and all types of items from the Fertile Crescent. MI even has a selection of hard to find European and Middle Eastern Candy bars and well as six types of licorice such as green apple.

In addition to foodstuffs, there are cookbooks, cookware and usually one random item I would never expect to see. The prices for all items are reasonable with many being a very good value. A few prices go beyond the concept of bargain. If winter has you in a rut, this is the place to go to mix up your diet as well as add some spice and culinary adventure to your life.

Mediterranean Food Imports
2647 North High Street
Old(e) North Columbus (at the Clintonville Border)
614.263.9400

Posted in culinary knowledge, markets | Tagged: | 3 Comments »

Rockmill Brewery: An Introduction

Posted by cmh gourmand on November 21, 2010


In my original plan, Rockmill Brewery was going to be a thirty minute detour on my way to a big day of bliss in Hocking county. Over three hours into my tour of the Rockmill Farm with all it has to offer, I realized that yet again that what I think and what happens are two different things.

Rockmill Brewery debuted in September of this year after over two years of meticulous work, planning and lots of brewing. What little I knew was exciting. The beer is brewed using water from a natural spring on the property, the beers are certified organic and brewed in the spirit of Belgian beers from the Wallonia region of Belgium. Again – pretty cool. I figured a quick tour, a few samples and off to Athens. Wrong.

Veering onto Lithopolis Road away from Lancaster, I realized I was in for something different from my expectations the moment I pulled into the driveway of Rockmill Farm. The space did not have the feel of a brewery, it felt like a winery. Looking at a house and a small stable, I was not even sure where a brewery might be housed. On a whim, I had brought my loyal dog known to you as CMH Tobias along for the day. We were immediately greeted by Scooby the gatekeeper and ambassador to Rockmill Brewery. A sniff and a lick indicated our credentials were accepted. We were then welcomed by Matt Barbee, the brewer of Rockmill.

As a quick aside, the house at Rockmill Farm is warm and inviting. It also features the essentials for the full Rockmill experience – a brick pizza oven and a dog bath (CMH Tobias got really muddy….as did I). The space is also adorned with art and photography from local artists and/or people with a local connection. Matt poured samples of his four Belgian style beers: dubbel, witbier, Saison and Tripel. I enjoyed each. The witbier was spicy with the characteristics I expect from a good wheat beer. The dubbel conjured up visions of monks crafting it. The Saison had the strongest flavor with the richness of toasted malt coming through with each sip. My favorite was the Tripel. This beer would pair well with creme brulee or any dessert for that matter. There is more than a hint of coriander in each sip.

Matt’s path to brewing Belgian style ales in Central Ohio was far from straight. He grew up in the area, attended college at Miami, worked in Chicago in the wine industry and in securities, then he moved on to LA as a talent management agent to the stars. He decided he wanted to come home and do something different. Maybe destiny did play some part in the genesis of Rockmill Brewery. His grandfather had a winery years ago. His stepdad, Dennis just happens to be a hydro-geologist who just happened to discover that the spring on the property had the same basic composition as the waters of Wallonia. Dennis and Matt started building a brewery from scratch in a converted former house stable. Along the way, there has been a lot of trial and error, dumped batches of beer and some interesting and ingenious macguyvering of equipment such as crab cooker burners (330,000 btu) which have converted well to the art and science of beer brewing.

Matt described the facility and the process as nano-brewing. Each beer is made one batch at a time in one 55 gallon barrel. Matt walked me through the brewing process and entire facility in about ten minutes. This is artisan, craft production at a truly small scale. The water comes from a spring over 100 feet below ground level. The manner the rock filters the water as it springs to the surface to become beer has to add a truly unique element to these beers. I kept thinking of the wine concept of terroir. The geology and characteristics on the Rockmill Farm and the eleven acres of the land it rests on are infused into this beer. Although the style is Belgian and the ingredients come from all over, this is truly a central Ohio beer.

Matt, Scooby, Toby and I roamed the rolling landscape of Rockmill Farm. It is a microcosm of the best of the Hocking Hills region – it has streams, waterfalls, a rope bridge, chapel, access to an ancient gristmill, rock outcroppings, acres of trees as well as wildlife and an absolute overdose of nature. Toby was in heaven. He was running, sniffing and swimming his way through the area as Matt and I talked shop. I can not think of any other brewery tour that included a hike, rock climbing and connecting with the facilities in such a special way. When Matt is brewing he can open a door or window and see the almost pristine wilderness. Inspiration my not be an ingredient listed on the label but there is no way that this place and the atmosphere it exhudes does not influence the brewing process.

The label of each Rockmill beer features a horse as a tribute to the former purpose of the farm and the brewing space. Matt is looking forward to horses coming back to the property as well as the restoration of the nearby gristmill and for all of these great things to grow and expand as the bottling line-up does too.

There are two places I instinctively go (like a salmon in season) when I need to recharge, revitalize and clear my mind after bad things happen – Athens and Australia. I was on my way to Athens when I visited Rockmill Brewery. I never made it. I didn’t need to. This is truly a unique space and I see how it is inspiring something very good. If I don’t make it back to the brewery soon I can at least get a shot of inspiration from the beers.

Where can you find Rockmill beers:
House Wine – Worthington
Whole Foods – Dublin
Tutto Vino – Dublin
Shaws Restaurant – Lancaster
(more places to come).

To arrange a tour, tasting or to keep track of what growing down at RockMill Farm
Rockmill Brewery
Matthew Barbee
5705 Lithopolis Road
310 755 4097
Rockmill Brewery web site
Matthew@Rockmillbrewery.com
Rockmill on Facebook

Posted in beer, culinary knowledge, Ohio, Road Trip, Travelfoodalogue | Tagged: | 3 Comments »

« Previous Entries
 
Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 115 other followers