CMH Gourmand

Culinary Discovery & Misadventures in the Ice Cream Capital of the World (Columbus)

Archive for the ‘pizza’ Category

Clintonville Pizza Challenge: Dantes vs. Clintonville Pizza Primo, Another Failed Plate

Posted by cmh gourmand on April 15, 2012


(Above, the winners of the fourth round of the Clintonville Pizza Challenge: a bag of Kettle Chips and homemade cookies).

When this series began, I was going to have a graphic designer pal put together a bracket to plot the rise and fall of the pizza candidates in the challenge. Unfortunately, we have only seen a rise of fail. Dantes and Pizza Primo both missed the mark. By a long shot. Neither are advancing to the next round.

Here is what transpired. Don’t try this at home.

Quotes from the evening:

“Mediocrity reigns”

“This is the last round…..right?!?

We tried a plain cheese pizza from both location as well as a sausage, mushroom and pepperoni from both shops. Their was a glimmer of excitement for Dantes since their sausage is billed as housemade. We had hope – we lost it. One of the Primo pizzas ordered was a thick crust variety – that did not help.

Are these bad pizzas. No. Are they good? The ones we had given new meaning to the word meh.

In the case of Pizza Primo – across the board the consensus was that it tasted like frozen or off the shelf pizza. The sauce lacked any aspect of flavor. It was red and wet but that was it. Overall: bland, unmemorable, disposable and generic were the adjectives used. We had a lot of this one left when the evening concluded.

For Dantes, I had a glimmer of hope. I believe Dantes was my first encounter with pizza, I would have been five or six. As I stood waiting to pick up our order, I had a lot of time to watch the place in operation. It is a family joint – family run and patronized. The dough slingers know the customers by first name, what school they went to and probably which T-ball team their cousin was on last year. While I was there an employee and a customer spent fifteen minutes catching up on family matters while pizzas were prepped. Another customer shared that he has just had to put his dog down. The order counter is right by the pizza assembly area so you watch each pie made. I read a letter on the wall praising the Dantes sausage and I was hoping their sausage would deliver a hit for the nerd night Clintonville Pizza Challenge crowd. Dantes has character for sure and a good connection to community. I was hoping some of that love would rise and thrive in the pizza dough too.

Dantes fared better but was still underwhelming. The sausage, while homemade, tasted like it might have been made at home….long ago. The grease smears permeating the thin plain white box is a signature characteristic but the good aspects of the grease went the wrong direction. In the case of both cheese Pizza Primo and especially Dantes pizzas – the plain pies are at a disadvantage because they don’t allow any other ingredients to hide the imperfections of the products. For both pizza purveyors a better sauce could have helped either cross the line of average but the whole was less than equals to the sums of the parts – passable but not worthy of the next round.

We now find ourselves with four rounds complete and several disappointments. Before the gang stages a coup and kicks me off the pizza island, we are going to double down and put all the remaining pizzas on the table. On Monday, April 16th we are going to complete round one of the series with one each of Northstar Cafe, Whole World, Gatto’s and Romeos and hope that at least one is a cut above the rest and at least more than edible.

Stay tuned for the outcome. I doubt there will a final four out of this series. But we are hoping for a final two to pair off against Adriaticos as the official pizza of nerd night.

Posted in Clintonville, culinary misadventure, pizza | Tagged: | 3 Comments »

Clintonville Pizza Challenge: Hounddogs vs. Villa Nova, The Path of Redemption

Posted by cmh gourmand on April 9, 2012

Redemption. Hallelujah!

If your read the last installment of the Monday Nerd Night Clintonville Pizza Challenge you may recall that things were looking dire for the series. Both contenders lost and the nerds were demoralized.

I was confident that Hound Dogs would deliver and I was pretty sure Villa Nova would provide a passable pie. I knew the series was sustainable when our pessimistic pizza contrarian had this to say about Hound Dogs, “This one is going to go far.” “This is damn good.”

The contest pitted a Hound Dogs Smoking Joe’s style (spicy sauce, garlic laden crust) with pepperoni, sausage and mushrooms as well as a traditional Hound Dogs pizza with an extra layer of cheese vs. two Villa Nova pizzas with the same toppings.

It was also a contest of cultures and mindsets. It was North vs. South. Hound Dogs lies in the badlands near Baja Clintonville in Olde North Columbus. Villa Nova is a community standby located in the nether regions between Worthington and Clintonville. Hound Dogs fuels the food needs of Hipsters. Villa Nova feeds the working class families and geriatric set of those north of Graceland. Young vs. old. New vs. traditional.

I knew Hound Dogs would win. But I also knew Villa Nova would at least offer some resistance. Villa Nova makes money by giving people their expectations – basic food, good service and price points that are right on target for the budget minded. Villa Nova keeps their parking lot packed seven days a week and has done so well that they bought the Just Pies building next door, knocked it down to build a second lot and filled it on the first day.

At Hound Dogs, the motto is pizza for the people. Most visitors have a shared experience at Hound Dogs. Good pizza, often apathetic or distracted service. The tattoo laden, band on the side culture of the staff at Hounddogs is a stark contrast to the family of servers at Villa Nova. More than four miles separate these two approaches to pizza.

As a group, we also debated the value of the pizzas. Villa Nova was $28.50 for two 15 inch pies. Hounddogs was $25.00 for two 14 inch pies. If we measured value by mass then Hound Dogs won the value category.


(Above: The blind eyes of pizza justice in action)

Another debate centered on canned mushrooms. Love them or repelled by them, these rubbery, chewy canned fungi strike a nostalgic cord with those of us raised on Ohio pizza. We “know” it’s wrong but we don’t want to do right.

The final debate was on crust density and ratios. This was inspired by the two cheese pizzas. Each was double cheese, causing a mass of cheese pressing down on crust. Some liked a crust to cheese ratio of 1:1; while others advocated for the Hound Dogs 5:1 ratio.

Reviewing comments of the testers, there was one clear winner – Smoking Joes. If it was regular Hounddogs vs. Villa Nova, it could have been close but the spicy and garlic infused flavors of Smoking Joes is quickly addictive.

Hound Dogs advances to the next round and is currently looking like it may be the winner. Villa Nova received respect and honorable mention for a good cracker crust and spicy sausage.

Tonight is round four of the challenge. Dante’s vs. Clintonville Pizza. Stay tuned.

Posted in Clintonville, pizza | Tagged: , , | Leave a Comment »

Clintonville Pizza Challenge: Sadness on Sinclair; Pizza House, Pizza Mart and the Agony of Defeat

Posted by cmh gourmand on March 27, 2012

The Outlook wasn’t brilliant for the Nerdville nine on that Monday:
The score stood zero vs. zero, with Pizza House and Pizza Mart DOA.
And then when CMH Gourmand died in his heart, and his brain did the same,
A sickly silence fell upon the nerds for the Clintonville Pizza Challenge game.

The straggling two found the site in deep despair. The first nerds to arrive, wondered – why is there no pizza to share how do we know which one will be best?
They Clung to that hope which springs eternal in the human breast;
They thought, what is the deal, where is Tom at
We’d put up even money, now, hoping the pizza won’t taste like dead cat.

But Rachel preceded Donna, as Andy fought back the snark,
But the situation was dire and the outcome looked dark
So upon that stricken multitude grim melancholy sat,
For now there seemed but little chance of CMH Gourmand not having a heart attack.

But they sat in learned helplessness, unsure of what to do
Where was the Pizza? Why can’t all shops deliver, Boo, hoo, hoo
And the sauce contrarian, the much traumatized, tore the fallacies of false hope all aside;
And when the dust had lifted, and the Nerds saw what had occurred,
Both pizzas, when obtained, were abysmal, and missed the mark of mediocrity by a very long stride.

Then from one somber throat, that held back on an inappropriate remark;
I’m sorry this happened, I’ll pay for it all;
And the Gourmand, as his sat and stewed and try to understand this lark
For this concept should be so simple, no one has to take the fall.

There was confusion in the Gourmand’s manner as he stepped into his place;
There was an annoyance in Gourmand’s bearing and a blankness on his face.
And when, responding to the jeers, he lightly dialed a cell phone,
I don’t know why these both suck, but I’ll get more even if I must dine alone.

Eighteen eyes were on him as he looked at the boxes in dismay;
Nine tongues tried to explain what happened this day
The plan was unclear, they did not think to check
That the guy they thought was picking up the pizzas, knew the sequence of steps

<stopped this poetry redux continuation many stanzas short because I like my readers and don't want them to suffer more).

Oh, somewhere in this favored Ville the sun is shining bright;
The pizza is good somewhere, and somewhere hearts are light,
And somewhere nerds are laughing, and somewhere children shout;
But there is no joy in Clintonville – both pizzas struck out.

Nothing in my life prepared me for the debacle and disappointment of the second installment of the Clintonville Pizza Challenge. In fact, my mind still reels from the event. Having run six Pizza Grand Prix‘s, other events and such, the concept of just having two pizza places compete and both tanking is outside my realm of comprehension.

Prior planning prevents piss poor pizza. And planning failed on this one. Due to a series of missteps, pizzas were ordered from Pizza House and Pizza Mart. But, no one picked them up (because this part of the plan had not been finalized and confirmed)…so they sat. When the miscue was diagnosed and the pizzas were picked up – what appears to be mediocre pizzas on both sides, lost any real hope of competition due to a lack of heat. The whole debacle was no one’s fault but it did show that the approach needed to be retooled.

I arrived late to find a lot of pizza left. None of it looked appealing. Initial reports indicated that both pizzas lost this round. I am one of those people who is perfectly happy to try a pizza pie that is lukewarm or cold, often I find that this helps me taste the individual flavors better. Trying both, I was soundly underwhelmed. Pizza Mart, I had never tried, so I had no baseline. But Pizza House, one of the standards of my youth….was not the pizza of my teenage years or even what I had back in 2011.

The consensus of the group was that both lost and neither could advance to the next bracket. The remaining pizzas, largely untouched were cold veggie pizzas – never my favorite when warm. The Pizza Mart pizza was over cooked….maybe they held it in the oven waiting for it to be picked up. There was not a good sample of Pizza House for me to try.

Looking at the semi-hungry people and wanting some redemption for at least Pizza House, I called in another order for a medium pepperoni and Sausage, a medium pesto and an Open-Faced Meatball sub and picked these up. The second round of Pizza House got a better response but still a resounding…..meh.

I don’t think these pizzas were sampled in their ideal state and the jury is so tainted by both, there is no way for these to get any consideration for the pizza challenge bracket. So at this point – I have to give up on both, call it a mis-fire and write these two off. If readers want to chime in on Pizza House and Pizza Mart please do so.

To sum up. FAIL.

The orange slices won

Some random thoughts on Pizza culture via two questions for the people following this series.

1) Thoughts on pizza delivery? Essential or a luxury?

2) Does pizza always have to be warm to be good? (People freak out when eating pizza that is not fresh out of the oven. In my experience (with the exception of Bono, Harvest Pizzeria and The Rossi) – most pizza is fine 15, 30 minutes or even an hour status post pick up.

Anyway – sorry for the whiff. Next week it is North vs. South: Hounddogs Pizza vs. Villa Nova. Stay tuned for a much better post and report on that war of the noses.

Posted in Clintonville, pizza | Tagged: | 5 Comments »

Clintonville Pizza Challenge: The Battle of Graceland – Z Pizza vs. Belleria

Posted by cmh gourmand on March 20, 2012

The first pizza pair off occurred this past Nerd Night Monday at an undisclosed location in Clintonville. The Battle of Graceland pitted Z Pizza vs. Belleria Pizza.

An additional disclaimer for this series. There was a brief attempt at rational and objective judging criteria using the Kansas City BBQ Society judging guidelines as a basis for the taste off. This was a clear failure within ten seconds of suggesting this sane method of evaluation.

As my gal pal Andrea would say “what evs”.

More back story. Belleria has sixteen locations in Northeast Ohio and two franchises in Columbus – thus the prime directive of no chains is compromised. Belleria started in Youngstown in the 1950′s. Why did this place make the cut? They are still unique to Columbus and Clintonville. They deliver to the undisclosed location.

Z Pizza has locations in sixteen states, Washington DC, the Middle East, Mexico and Vietnam. Really. Z pizza is unique in central Ohio with one Clintonville location and one in the Short North. They deliver to the undisclosed location.

I can’t say the battle was hard-fought. We are so used to the value and massive bulk of Adriaticos that getting less pizza for more money was a moral and morale shock. One individual led the discussion with “I hate Z Pizza, it made me sick years ago, so it already lost.” This is the type of thing a food sociologist and enthusiast such as I must deal with. Grrrrrr.

What happened. After some trial and error and a lot of whining about having to wait to watch TV because I was still collecting data, I decided to settle the matter using a McLaughlin Report style aggressive questioning technique of the pros and cons of each pizza with each nerd. After everyone said their peace about the pieces, each person was allowed an opportunity to vote.

Belleria Notes:


“Taste Like Home”
“like the greasy thing going on”
“The best of the cheapest ingredients”
“more fart inducing” (really….this is the caliber of test subjects I am working with here).
“good spicing on the sauce”
“don’t like the spicing on the sauce”
“French Fry Pizza Rocks (also universal)
“like the cakey crust”
“has godfather / Mob qualities”
“hearty, filling – winner by weight for the price”
“reminds me of a Northeast Ohio Mom and Pop Pizza Pie Restaurant”
“spongy lusiciousness”
“tough biscuit quality – chewy, pieogiesque crust”
“the Ohio University of pizza” – under the radar and plucky

Z Pizza Notes:


“hits the flavors that the kids (hipsters) like”
“good crispness, good sear/char and crunch on crust”
“best combination and blend of flavors”
“good Tomato Taste”
“good crust (this was near universal)
“pretentious pizza”
“not memorable”

Having gathered the feedback above with tooth pulling precision I opted to do a vote.

The champion was Belleria with seven votes. Z Pizza received one.

Much like the Henry Fonda character in Twelve Angry Men, I had to respect the observations of the lone dissenter. It is difficult to compare the two pizzas because their styles are very different. Each had strong points and weak points. We thought both were over priced. Other than our resident contrarian who voted against Z Pizza years before, we all found merit in the Z Pizza crust. The French Fry pizza from Belleria is quite superior and deserves a special nod.

Next week: The Battle of Sinclair – Pizza House vs. Pizza Mart

Hoping for a bracket by next week (Hint: Roland).

Posted in Clintonville, culinary knowledge, pizza | Tagged: | 4 Comments »

Harvest Pizzeria: Pizza + Patio = Pleasure

Posted by cmh gourmand on September 16, 2011

Harvest Pizzeria opened in August and was greeted with immediate, over the top adoration. Is it deserved? I believe so. A true pizzeria has been the missing element in the German Village / Merion Village dining options for quite some time. Granted Planks and Hi Beck have very good pizzas, but a proper pizzeria….not so much.

Harvest Pizzeria is all that and a bowl of olives and maybe a crate of organic something. Owner Chris Crader is no stranger to the dining scene in Columbus. He has very good street credibility in numerous roles. It seems one of his first jobs was in a pizza shop. He combined all of his experience plus a desire to cook with some of what he grows on a one acre farm as well as a rooftop garden into Harvest. Add in a small brick building with the charm of a minimalist European Cafe mix with a welcoming patio and the end result is the slam dunk you may have read about elsewhere. The hype is right about Harvest Pizzeria.

The place has been packed on each visit I have made to Harvest. While all of the above is quite nice, the pressing question is “what about the food”. It is good. It is very good. The cocktails are well done with the house margarita being the winner so far. The wine selection is small and heavily focused on a small number of underappreciated Italian and European wines.

The tiny kitchen could serve the dining area with a light sweat but add in the patio and things get a bit tight for the kitchen staff. The wood/gas oven combination is in constant use and the cooks are in constant motion.

The starters/appetizers are simple with a twist. See the photos below.

Hudson Valley Foie Gras Tourchon with Malvasia grape must (the stuff in the dropper) and crostini


Olives with Cerignola, Castelvetrano, Giaraffa olives, Marcona almonds and fresh herbs

Among the several pizza combinations these three are my favorites: Spicy Yuma (Canal Junction Gouda, chorizo, jalapeno, corn, roasted red pepper, chipotle-spiked tomato sauce) Goat Cheese (with soppressata, caramelized onion, cherry tomato and garlic) and Ohio Bacon with fresh mozzarella, roasted red pepper, aleppo pepper flake and marjoram.

Two desserts take the cake. Butterscotch Budino (caramel sauce, creme fraiche, toasted hazelnuts, vanilla-scented Maldon sea salt) and Pie of the Day.

Harvest is worth a visit. Plan on waiting. Go while you can still enjoy the patio for the season.

495 S. 4th Street
German Village
614.824.1769
http://harvestpizzeria.com

Harvest Pizzeria on Urbanspoon

Posted in pizza, restaurants | Tagged: | Leave a Comment »

Taken in by TAT Ristorante di Famiglia

Posted by cmh gourmand on September 6, 2011

One thing leads to another. I was working on an article about Pizza. TAT was the first Columbus restaurant to serve pizza in 1929. As I was writing, I recalled I had not been to TAT since 2008. That is too long. I drive by their teaser sign on I-70 during the course of my adventures a couple of times per month. My recollection was Columbus Foodie did a very good write up of the place in early 2011. I wondered if I could find a different spin on the place. After finally going back, I decided I did not need to write anything new. The magic of TAT is the timeless nature of the place. The good elements of the restaurant can not be shared too many times.

The fourth generation of Corrova’s as well as members of the third and second generations are still working at TAT. Most family businesses struggle to make it past one lifespan. TAT did, so they must be doing several things right. Many of their servers and employees have been working at the restaurant for decades. Many of their customers have been dining there for decades too. Again, this is impressive. How does this happen? How is a community of owners, employees and customers created at a restaurant?

The secret to the business can be figured out over one Sunday afternoon meal. The current location opened in 1978, nothing has changed since then, in fact, the dining room could easily be from the 1950′s, it looks and feels like a time capsule. Consistency is the key here. Most of the customers are known by name and eating preferences. Three servers work on each half of the TAT and they know the menu, their tables and their customers. In my time there I was called honey eight to ten times and my shoulder was patted on at least twelve occasions. I felt like I was eating at some Italian grandmothers house and that I was the favored son for eating so much so well. I also give credit to TAT for only serving RC products, the PBR of the cola family.

TAT still makes a really good pizza. It is different from the 1929 version. The crust is medium in thickness, crunchy on the edges and chewy on the innards. TAT pizza also passes the next day cold pizza test. I opted for full sensory experience of the Sicilian Delight. Paul and Becke from Columbus Foodie do this spread better justice so take a look at what they had to say.

Here is what this ten course meal includes:


Glass of wine – choice of three types
Italian salad

Homemade soup choice: Wedding or Minestrone

Sicilian Bread (Toasted and drenched in Italian spices and cheese)
Spaghetti with meatball
Veal parmigiana

Meat filled Ravioli
Homemade Italian sausage
Manicotti with ricotta cheese

Spumoni ice cream

Yes, it was a lot. I did not try to finish it.

There is a lot to enjoy at TAT other than the food. The back hallway houses a mural depicting Transcontinental Air Transport, the first coast to coast airline (with some significant help from trains). The waitresses have many stories to tell if they have a free moment. Owner Jimmy Corrova checks in with as many customers as he can. On the Sunday I visited, it appeared that an African-American church or social event had just ended. Many elderly customers came in sporting great looking suits, dresses and hats. It felt like a cross between the Oscars and the 1950′s – there were top hats, perfectly shined shoes, you name it. It felt classy……I did not feel that way in my Commfest T-Shirt.

The sauces are slow-cooked and homemade. Egg Noodles are common, the ravioli appear to be made by hand and there are countless other touches you hope for in an old school, family friendly Italian restaurant. Come for the food, enjoy the atmosphere, appreciate the service and take in a serving of history. TAT serves a full sensory experience, the food is just a portion of the whole.

1210 South James Road
(corner of James and Livingston)
Eastside
614.236.1392
www.tatitalian.com
(TAT has their own jingle / theme song – sing along when you visit the webpage)

Tat Ristorante di Famiglia on Urbanspoon

Posted in pizza, restaurants | Tagged: , | 1 Comment »

Casa di Pizza: The Best Ribs for the Buck

Posted by cmh gourmand on July 18, 2011

I found out about Casa di Pizza from my dental hygienist. Over several conversations with her between spitting and mumbling in a dental chair I trusted she would only give me a good tip. When she highlighted the ribs at a pizza place I was intrigued but more than a little skeptical.

Casa di Pizza is a carry out well off the beaten path. It has an innovative service window connecting to a bar next door for constant food shuttling. The menu is more progressive than would be imagined. Beverages include Hanks Sodas and Blenheim Ginger Ale. There are three pizza sauces: Red, Creamy Alfredo and Roasted Garlic. Pizza choices include The Defibrillator, appropriately named since it is piled with pepperoni, bacon, ham, Italian Sausage and salami. For the less heart-attack inclined there is the Double Double (two layers of cheese and two layers of pepperoni) and the Chicken Cordon Bleu (Alfredo Sauce, chicken, provolone, ham and Swiss Cheese). If you are undecided you might order all fourteen toppings on the Kitchen Sink. The most unexpected combination is Ziggy’s Steakhouse mixing rib eye, steak sauce, mushrooms and hand cut fries. Speaking of the fries they are near perfect, especially if you like them state fair style, balancing just enough grease with the right proportion of potato.

Enough foreplay, it is time to cut to the chase. The ribs. The ribs are incredible. Start with the Casa Teaser Sampler of four ribs. It will make you a believer. The ribs are not technically BBQ based on how they are cooked but who cares. They are cooked in the pizza oven but I am not sure of the other special preparations for the racks and I did not want to pry. The sauce balances sweet and tangy with a stick to everything thickness that somehow does not adhere to your body parts. No wetnaps are needed. You are most likely to eat the ribs with a fork and knife or your fingers. The meat falls off the bone by the touch or a gentle breeze leaving behind a barren, white rib bone which looks like a fossil. The bones are bare – they seem to be a delivery device for the meat – nothing sticks to the bone so there is no work involved in consumption. This seems like cheating.

Are the best ribs I have ever had…..no. However these are the best value and most instantly rewarding. Considering the price, consistency, ease of eating and hours of accessibility of Casa di Pizza ribs I would almost choose over Ray Ray’s if Casa di Pizza was closer. When a pizza place nails ribs, it is worth the effort. Do you recall that I mentioned there is a bar next door? As an added bonus I will provide this tricky tip. If you can’t convince your significant other eater of the need to go to Casa di Pizza, pretend that you want to do something educational. Visit the Campbell Memorial Park just north on McKinley. The Shrum Indian Mound located there would serve as an acceptable picnic site for rib or pizza consumption.

Casa di Pizza
2986 McKinley Ave
Located in the strange netherworld between Grandview, San Margherita, Hilliard and a quarry
614.586.1342

Casa di Pizza on Urbanspoon

Posted in BBQ, pizza | Tagged: | 4 Comments »

Pizza House Pushing Past The Fifty Year Mark

Posted by cmh gourmand on June 20, 2011

Pizza House is located off the beaten path. The current location is in a former convenience store, tucked between Sinclair Road and railroad tracks. The former location was across Lincoln Ave. The original seated maybe twenty while doing a brisk carry out business. Pizza House is also located in my memories of middle school and beyond. It may have been my first non-Clintonville pizza pie (it is located yards from the border of Clintonville and Worthington. Pizza House is still the place that tradition dictates that I travel to when my childhood friend comes to town as we visit a place we have gone to since we were kids.

Pizza House was hot in the 1980′s, it appeared in numerous publications as one of the best pizzas in Columbus. Even as the Columbus pizza palate has grown over time, I would still include the Pizza House pepperoni and sausage pizza among my top twenty-one pizzas in Columbus. Their open-faced meatball sandwich is one of my top ten comfort foods involving bread. Pizza House is an institution in the neighborhoods around 161 and Sinclair as well as the communities on the other side of the tracks. Business is still booming and carry out business is brisk. Although the business has fallen off the media radar it is still doing quite well.

Pizza House turns fifty in the fall. It opened in 1961. The first non family employee was fifteen year old Billy Colasante. He stayed with Pizza House when it moved in 1991 then he bought the business in 1993. Some employees have worked there over thirty years, a rare thing in any business. The familiar faces among veteran employees and other Colasantes working in the house does give the restaurant a friendly, family feeling. The interior is lined with local little league baseball and soccer trophies accumulated from years of supporting teams in the area.

Any small business, especially in the restaurant trade, that can thrive after fifty years must be doing something right. In the case of Pizza House it is the case of the same people making the same product consistently and taking the time to connect with the community.

Pizza House
747 Lincoln Ave.
Columbus (and my memories)

Pizza House on Urbanspoon

Posted in pizza, restaurants, sandwiches | Tagged: | 3 Comments »

Benny’s Pizza: Marysville

Posted by cmh gourmand on April 30, 2011


When Marysville comes up in conversation four things are mentioned: Scott’s, Honda, Doc Henderson’s Restaurant and Benny’s Pizza. Benny’s seems to be mentioned the most and I became increasingly curious about the place. However, I could never convince myself to drive out to Marysville just for pizza. On my way home from Hot Dog University I found myself ahead of schedule and wanting to avoid rush hour traffic so I decided I would check on Benny’s.

The exterior (the exterior’s actually) of Benny’s did not suggest anything noteworthy. There are two buildings, one is a carry out only location for quick pick ups the other dining in location includes part of what I believe to be an old Frosttop Root Beer stand.

As I walked in, Benny’s looked more like a sports bar. The walls are lined with all things Ohio sports related. There is a signed 1976 Reds World Series team shirt, Ohio State jerseys, more Browns and Tribe memorabilia than some Cleveland bars have and much more. There are bleacher seats from old Riverfront Stadium. While sports enthusiasm is big at Benny’s, music is bigger. The walls are also filled with signed photos of rock and country stars including one of Eric Clapton’s guitars. An impressive bill of local and regional musicians fills the giant patio and/or the bar most weekends. The beer selection is extensive and should impress sports and music fans alike.

Considering the focus on the above, I was not sure Benny’s would need to focus on the pizza. I was pleased to find out that they do take their pies very seriously and that pizza makes Benny’s the destination with everything else a significant bonus. The pizza at Benny’s delivers. It is a medium thick crust featuring a cracker style rim with a nice snap, crackle and pop to it. The cheese tends to char and brown on the crust edge in a most divine way. The cheese is thickly applied to the pizza on top of a sauce with a tease of sweetness to it. There are many topping combinations to choose from including “Garbage” which is all fourteen toppings. The pizza is served old school on a pizza tray. As a bonus, when I bounced into my booth, I was greeted with a basket of popcorn to nibble on while I studied the menu.

My pizza was great, I would place it in my top 10 to 15 for central Ohio based on just one pizza. The rest of the menu has a lot to offer including Stromboli, pasta dinners and Robin’s Ribs which are often mentioned as some of the best BBQ ribs in the area.

I was also happy to find out the place kept some of the Frosttop heritage by making and serving their own root beer in frosty mugs that they are not shy about refilling. I was also happy to see that they support local drinking by serving Eldchrist wines. Benny’s is well worth the drive for pizza and a beer and a show.

Benny’s Pizza
968 Columbus Road
Marysville
Dine In: 937.644.8383
Carry out: 937.644.0881

Benny's Pizza on Urbanspoon

Posted in bar, beer, pizza, Road Trip | Tagged: | Leave a Comment »

Borgata Pizza Cafe: Story of the Little Guy in The Big CMH Pizza Pie Picture

Posted by cmh gourmand on April 13, 2011


I found out about Borgata Pizza Cafe from my pals at Pizza Slayer. They liked it very much. They also mentioned the phrase “New York Style”, that got my attention quick. Columbus has a large minority of people from the east coast that crave New York style pizza. These people whine and complain and beg for the pizza of their youth or their college days. They find pizza in Columbus failing and lacking and lackadaisical. These people are sad. I am sad for them. My sadness is based on two reasons. First, there is plenty of good pizza in Columbus if you know where to look. There is also good to great New York style pizza in town…if you know where to look. We have Chicago style pizza too, which probably angers more than is assuaged. At one time, and it may still be the case, Columbus had more pizza places per capita than any other city on the country. You can’t find good pizza here? If so, you are not looking. If so, you are not even trying. Granted, Columbus style pizza can disappoint pizza purists or cultists, but even that can be good from the right place.

The reality is this, not many people are looking for good pizza in Columbus. Many of our neighbors, co-workers and yes, it is true, some of our friends are content to eat boring, bland, soulless corporate pizza or pizza that essentially comes out of a can or plastic bag. With a bar set low for pizza and people reluctant to travel more than around the corner for quality pizza pie there does not seem to be a market for someone who “wants to do the right thing”.

So, with all of that Columbus culinary hubris who would dare open a new pizza place against such odds? The owners of Borgata Pizza did and they are still at it. The shop has been open just over a year and it could use a few more customers willing to try something outside of their normal pizza experience. Borgata is often a one or two person operation. Orders are made to order. Dough is make from scratch from a premium flour that costs twice as much as what most pizza shops use. The menu is small – pizza, calzones, stromboli, sandwiches, salads, a couple pasta dishes and a few homemade desserts.

I spoke with the owner and chief pizza tosser at length. He is a Columbus native. He graduated from DeSales and worked in construction for years. He had a friend that had retail space that needed a purpose so that became Borgata Pizza Cafe. It is a tough spot for the food trade. This part of north Columbus had its culinary heyday back in the 1980′s. The only thing that draws me to this side of town (Cleveland Ave. and Dublin Granville Road/SR 161) is the presence of some new immigrant ethnic gems (Mi Li Cafe, Solay Bistro, Salaam Bakery, Nazareth and some super Taco Trucks). Borgata is tucked in a retail strip by a service road just west of Cleveland Ave. It is hard to see from the road and even neighbors wonder if the place is new. The type of pizza served here is different that what the community is accustomed to. It might take a few more minutes to make and it does not look like the neighborhood favorite – Massey’s. The pizzas are bigger than normal too – 12″, 16″ and 20″ inch pies are the standard. The owner is looking for a 28 or 30 inch or larger pizza but he can’t find the right boxes to fit this size.

I sampled the meat combo (ham, sausage, pepperoni and mozzarella), a stromboli (sausage, pepperoni and mozzarella is standard) which was about 15 inches long and the Meatball Parmigiana sub (made with homemade meatballs). The pizza is definitely of the New York variety, or at least close, as in New Jersey. The pepperoni curled at the edges. The crust ring is big. Borgata also sells by the slice which is a hallmark of New York style pizza. The stromboli was the winner of the trio. It was clearly freshly made and cooked to order. It was also a good value for the price. It came with sauce for dipping (could have been spiced more, slow cooked longer and/or richer but it was good and got the job done).

This is a good pizza place that is trying to do the right thing with the pizza tradition. If they get more business, I certain they will get better and continue to improve with more selection, better (maybe even some local) ingredients and more recipe fine-tuning. These are folks that make a good product but are committed to making it better and maybe someday the best.

We just passed the pledge season for public radio, where we consider donating to keep public radio alive for six more months. I ask you to consider pledging to make pizza better in the next six months by supporting a local pizzeria, especially Borgata if you live on the North side.

Borgata Pizza Cafe
5701 Parkville St
614.891.2345

Borgata Pizza Cafe on Urbanspoon

Posted in pizza | Tagged: , | 6 Comments »

 
Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 121 other followers