CMH Gourmand

Culinary Discovery & Misadventures in the Ice Cream Capital of the World (Columbus)

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Explorers Club: My First Expeditions

Posted by cmh gourmand on October 23, 2011

I am pleased. I am happy. Darn it, I might even use the word ecstatic! I have waited ten years and two months for this sign.

So what is the big deal? The Explorer’s Club is open. Yes, it is a restaurant. Ricky Barnes is cooking in the kitchen and Tracy Studer is guiding the front of the house. If you don’t recognize these names then you probably did not dine out in Columbus from the early 1990′s to 2001 (The Galaxy Cafe, Lost Planet Pizza and Pasta, Ricky’s Galaxy). Ricky and Tracy describe the Explorer’s Club as the Galaxy grown up. A few of the dishes and all of the flavors of Galaxies past are on the menu. The menu, decor and focus on service reflect changes in Tracy, Ricky and the rest of us during the last decade.

So a blast from the past has returned. Many eaters from the Columbus dining scene of old have fond memories of Ricky’s culinary accomplishments. Another element adding to the bigness of the deal is the location. I have discussed growing downtown dining and why this is important to the city. A good restaurant can be a foundation or launching point for a community (for example Yellow Brick Pizza and Angry Baker in Olde Town East). The Explorer’s Club is located on South High in Merion Village. The plucky neighborhood has limited eating options within their community, so a successful restaurant with good food can be a vibrant asset to the area. A past effort in the space, Coyote Jane’s, was a horrible disappointment (Did I just write something negative? Yes, and readers know I never do that. I will say the food, service and, well, everything was memorable, but not because it was good).

So with all of this good karma swelling up I must admit I had some trepidation. This was like revisiting an old flame. Are things ever as good as we remember them? I changed, they changed. Was the awesomeness of the Galaxy just a fond memory I had built up over the years. What if I did not like it? More importantly, what if you don’t like it. I don’t know if I can deal with the Galaxy imploding again the Explorer’s Club closing it’s doors.

I visited during a dry run night and ate for free. I went the next two days for brunch and was happy to pay for meals just as good at a good value. The verdict: YES! wonderful, near perfect, exciting, tasty. The menu may have an aspect of nostalgia but the flavor is there and a explorers spirit of pushing the limits. Considering the Explorer’s Club was open just to test drive the menu, train new servers and cooks and for experimenting with a few ideas, the end result was spectacular. I typically don’t try out a new restaurant for at least a month after opening so they can work out any kinks and I can walk through the door with reasonable expectations. On paper the Explorer’s Club should not have had much of a chance to blow me away based on my fervent loyalty of the past. I am looking forward to what the Explorer’s Club can do with a more seasoned staff and a few weeks of menu enhancements. Changes are already in the works. A bar menu is in the process of development as well as a limited selection of cocktails.

The food and the music is impressively sourced locally when possible. Here is a list of some of the local purveyors used:

Used Kids Records (the genres of music mix well with the menu)
Growers First / Crimson Cup (Coffee and Tea)
Shagbark Seed and Mill Company (from my food first favorite Athens, Ohio)
Gerber cage free, organic vegetarian fed chicken
OSU Agricultural egg hormone and antibiotic free pork
Stutzman Farms (grains/flour)

Not local, but definitely reflective of the restaurant, is where the artwork is sourced from. Most of the prints are by Jeb Loy Nichols, Wales UK.

Nichol’s portraits of famous or infamous names you may have heard include: John Coltrane, Amelia Earhart, Hank Aaron, Wendell Berry, Miles Davis, Nina Simone, Harvey Milk and Woody Gutherie. All were pioneers in their fields and times. The tagline of the Explorers Club is Simple – Pioneering – Flavor. The Galaxy was a pioneer in Columbus dining in the day and today, Explorers Club has taken that spirit and refined it. Staking a claim in Merion Village could be pioneering as well, I hope others will follow to add to the spice of this neighborhood.

So after all of this historical and philosophic foreplay, it is time to focus on the food.

Dinner was my first experience (note a few menu items may change of get tweaked by the time you travel to the Explorer’s Club. The item I hoped to see the most was black bean hummus. It is on the menu and is now served with garlic citrus pizza bread (looks and tastes like the best pita bread I have ever had). The hummus is great. I do miss the giant pool of garlic sauce that topped the 1993 – 2001 version but since that causes significant “personal space” issues for me, I figure it was omitted for the safety of the general public.

I also ordered the chicken quesadilla with charred salsa and sour cream. The salsa packed some significant heat but paired with the cool sour cream accentuated the flavors of everything on the plate.

The winner of the dinner entrees selected was the beef brisket (with black beans, redskin potatoes and jalapeno slaw). The brisket fell apart with very light pressure from my fork. It has a complimentary mix of flavors in the broth to spice things up. My dining companion is not a fan of the jalapeno but she found the proportion of pepper to slaw to be perfect balance of heat and cool.

For dessert there was only one choice I could allow, another blast from my past, Mrs. Barnes Pumpkin Dessert (I recalled this being called Surpise). Oh, yes. This is no pumpkin pie. It is served with cream and fresh berries. It might best be described as a fusion of cake, pie and cheesecake. It is good, that is all that matters.

I woke up the following day and got some of the old gang together to go back from brunch (after college a group of six to ten of us were there almost every Saturday for one or two meals). Longtime readers know I have little interest in breakfast with very few exceptions, Explorers Club is on the short list. I liked my group meal so much I went back the next day solo to sample the only item I did not try the day before.

Another menu item I was passionately, desperately, pathetically hoping for was museli. This simple dish was the hallmark for all other museli experiences in my life, with the exception of a serving I had in Zug, Switzerland every subsequent museli left me wanting and musing about why Ricky would create something so good and take it away. The 2011 version is as good as any and quite photogenic.

Next was the Sophie’s Choice of toast: Cuban French Toast with fruit vs. Grilled Cinnamon Bread with fruit and cream. The Gourmand approach to problem solving goes something like this, “when in doubt, get both”. It was the right choice. Both get “best of show” in their classes. I can not advise you to pick one over the other. The crunchy, funnel cake like batter on the French Toast is borderline addictive. French or not, Cuban bread is the finest way to experience this dish. As for the Cinnamon Bread, the cream was great – I would love to see more on teh side next time.

(I mean really, how could you choose?)

All the breads are made in-house at Explorers Club. The bread is fresh, hearty and serves as a great base for many of the dishes or a compliment for dipping sauces on the side. One their best uses of bread is the Fried Egg sandwich served on Ciabatta with Muenster Cheese and Jalapeno slaw with redskin potatoes on the side. This is a bit messy to eat but who cares, it might be the best breakfast sandwich (non-traditional category) in town.

Love at first bite? In my case, they had me at OPEN. Trying to be objective, would I feel the same way about Explorers Club without the prior history? Yes. If anything my expectations and hopes may have made impressing me more difficult. Considering that more additions and improvements are in the works for the coming weeks, it is easy to believe their grade of A going to A+. The Explorer’s Club is worth exploring. I would suggest going for both a dinner and brunch to gauge the potential that is here.

I will be writing about the Explorers Club more for sure. I am interested in what the bar menu will have to offer as well as the variety of cocktails appearing behind the bar. Did I mention I was really happy?

The Explorer’s Club opens the doors to the world on October 28th, 2011.

Explorers Club
1586 S. High Street
Merion Village / South Side
614.725-0155
Facebook

Explorers Club on Urbanspoon

Posted in breakfast, Locally Sourced, restaurants, sandwiches, Vegetarian Friendly | Tagged: , , | 12 Comments »

Harvest Pizzeria: Pizza + Patio = Pleasure

Posted by cmh gourmand on September 16, 2011

Harvest Pizzeria opened in August and was greeted with immediate, over the top adoration. Is it deserved? I believe so. A true pizzeria has been the missing element in the German Village / Merion Village dining options for quite some time. Granted Planks and Hi Beck have very good pizzas, but a proper pizzeria….not so much.

Harvest Pizzeria is all that and a bowl of olives and maybe a crate of organic something. Owner Chris Crader is no stranger to the dining scene in Columbus. He has very good street credibility in numerous roles. It seems one of his first jobs was in a pizza shop. He combined all of his experience plus a desire to cook with some of what he grows on a one acre farm as well as a rooftop garden into Harvest. Add in a small brick building with the charm of a minimalist European Cafe mix with a welcoming patio and the end result is the slam dunk you may have read about elsewhere. The hype is right about Harvest Pizzeria.

The place has been packed on each visit I have made to Harvest. While all of the above is quite nice, the pressing question is “what about the food”. It is good. It is very good. The cocktails are well done with the house margarita being the winner so far. The wine selection is small and heavily focused on a small number of underappreciated Italian and European wines.

The tiny kitchen could serve the dining area with a light sweat but add in the patio and things get a bit tight for the kitchen staff. The wood/gas oven combination is in constant use and the cooks are in constant motion.

The starters/appetizers are simple with a twist. See the photos below.

Hudson Valley Foie Gras Tourchon with Malvasia grape must (the stuff in the dropper) and crostini

Olives with Cerignola, Castelvetrano, Giaraffa olives, Marcona almonds and fresh herbs

Among the several pizza combinations these three are my favorites: Spicy Yuma (Canal Junction Gouda, chorizo, jalapeno, corn, roasted red pepper, chipotle-spiked tomato sauce) Goat Cheese (with soppressata, caramelized onion, cherry tomato and garlic) and Ohio Bacon with fresh mozzarella, roasted red pepper, aleppo pepper flake and marjoram.

Two desserts take the cake. Butterscotch Budino (caramel sauce, creme fraiche, toasted hazelnuts, vanilla-scented Maldon sea salt) and Pie of the Day.

Harvest is worth a visit. Plan on waiting. Go while you can still enjoy the patio for the season.

495 S. 4th Street
German Village
614.824.1769
http://harvestpizzeria.com

Harvest Pizzeria on Urbanspoon

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Taken in by TAT Ristorante di Famiglia

Posted by cmh gourmand on September 6, 2011

One thing leads to another. I was working on an article about Pizza. TAT was the first Columbus restaurant to serve pizza in 1929. As I was writing, I recalled I had not been to TAT since 2008. That is too long. I drive by their teaser sign on I-70 during the course of my adventures a couple of times per month. My recollection was Columbus Foodie did a very good write up of the place in early 2011. I wondered if I could find a different spin on the place. After finally going back, I decided I did not need to write anything new. The magic of TAT is the timeless nature of the place. The good elements of the restaurant can not be shared too many times.

The fourth generation of Corrova’s as well as members of the third and second generations are still working at TAT. Most family businesses struggle to make it past one lifespan. TAT did, so they must be doing several things right. Many of their servers and employees have been working at the restaurant for decades. Many of their customers have been dining there for decades too. Again, this is impressive. How does this happen? How is a community of owners, employees and customers created at a restaurant?

The secret to the business can be figured out over one Sunday afternoon meal. The current location opened in 1978, nothing has changed since then, in fact, the dining room could easily be from the 1950′s, it looks and feels like a time capsule. Consistency is the key here. Most of the customers are known by name and eating preferences. Three servers work on each half of the TAT and they know the menu, their tables and their customers. In my time there I was called honey eight to ten times and my shoulder was patted on at least twelve occasions. I felt like I was eating at some Italian grandmothers house and that I was the favored son for eating so much so well. I also give credit to TAT for only serving RC products, the PBR of the cola family.

TAT still makes a really good pizza. It is different from the 1929 version. The crust is medium in thickness, crunchy on the edges and chewy on the innards. TAT pizza also passes the next day cold pizza test. I opted for full sensory experience of the Sicilian Delight. Paul and Becke from Columbus Foodie do this spread better justice so take a look at what they had to say.

Here is what this ten course meal includes:

Glass of wine – choice of three types
Italian salad

Homemade soup choice: Wedding or Minestrone

Sicilian Bread (Toasted and drenched in Italian spices and cheese)
Spaghetti with meatball
Veal parmigiana

Meat filled Ravioli
Homemade Italian sausage
Manicotti with ricotta cheese

Spumoni ice cream

Yes, it was a lot. I did not try to finish it.

There is a lot to enjoy at TAT other than the food. The back hallway houses a mural depicting Transcontinental Air Transport, the first coast to coast airline (with some significant help from trains). The waitresses have many stories to tell if they have a free moment. Owner Jimmy Corrova checks in with as many customers as he can. On the Sunday I visited, it appeared that an African-American church or social event had just ended. Many elderly customers came in sporting great looking suits, dresses and hats. It felt like a cross between the Oscars and the 1950′s – there were top hats, perfectly shined shoes, you name it. It felt classy……I did not feel that way in my Commfest T-Shirt.

The sauces are slow-cooked and homemade. Egg Noodles are common, the ravioli appear to be made by hand and there are countless other touches you hope for in an old school, family friendly Italian restaurant. Come for the food, enjoy the atmosphere, appreciate the service and take in a serving of history. TAT serves a full sensory experience, the food is just a portion of the whole.

1210 South James Road
(corner of James and Livingston)
Eastside
614.236.1392
www.tatitalian.com
(TAT has their own jingle / theme song – sing along when you visit the webpage)

Tat Ristorante di Famiglia on Urbanspoon

Posted in pizza, restaurants | Tagged: , | 1 Comment »

The Angry Baker

Posted by cmh gourmand on July 13, 2011

The Angry Baker is anything but angry. Friendly and engaging, Vickie Hink made her way to Columbus to pursue a culinary path. Along the way she moved to Olde Town East and shifted her focus to baking. Shortly after Yellow Brick Pizza opened she walked by the space she now bakes in and decided it would be the perfect spot for her own bakery. This up and coming Olde Town culinary block will soon be joined by a tavern serving Ohio beers and sandwiches with Angry Baker buns. This is an exciting time to live in the area and certainly something to be happy about.

Vicki gets up at 4 am to bake a variety of breads including Brioche. The day starts with breakfast, which is served all day. The crowd pleaser is the Egg Sandwich featuring a fried egg with Bluejacket Dairy Ludlow cheese on a Bacon, Swiss & Chive Scone. Lunch and later includes soups, salads, sandwiches and (vegan) desserts. Many of the ingredients are Ohio Proud such as: Sharp White Cheddar (L.W. Randal’s, Warsaw), Mayfield Havarti (Orwell), Turkey from Cooper Farms (St. Henry), Eggs laid at Hillandale Farms (Croton) and oats, flour, bran, honey, maple syrup – Stutzman Farms (Millersburg).

I sampled The Turkey sandwich piled with cucumber, alfalfa sprouts, dijon, brie, tomato
on Brioche served with a side salad. The sandwich was hearty and tasty. I would get it again. I might get two.

In the dessert category I tried the Blueberry scone (rated 10 out of 10 on the scale of perfect sconeness), the vegan chocolate blueberry brownie (dense, tasted of chocolate without blocking the blueberry flavor) and after seeing the neighboring couple take one bite then sigh with pure bliss – a chocolate eclair (the yellow custard had flavor, richness and thickness with the dough and chocolate complimenting the filling with balance). Did I like the dessert? My run-on description should attest to my feelings on the matter.

The space is small with a tiny table and bar counter seating six or so. There is a table outside as well. Most of the orders are to go. If you have time, score a seat at the counter to watch Vicki construct sandwiches with speed and grace at an incredible pace without breaking a sweat. Placed under the plastic countertop are copies of recipes and cooking notes which creates the feeling of being in Grandma’s kitchen. This practical decor is integrated with the rest of the urban folk style art throughout the space. The highlight of the art (all by the same designer) is the bathroom mural.

If you bake it or pour it, they will come and that is what is happening in Olde Town East. A bustling culinary block is building a better community.

The Angry Baker
891 Oak St
Olde Town East
614.947.0976

The Angry Baker on Urbanspoon

Posted in breakfast, desserts, restaurants, sandwiches | Tagged: | 2 Comments »

Pizza House Pushing Past The Fifty Year Mark

Posted by cmh gourmand on June 20, 2011

Pizza House is located off the beaten path. The current location is in a former convenience store, tucked between Sinclair Road and railroad tracks. The former location was across Lincoln Ave. The original seated maybe twenty while doing a brisk carry out business. Pizza House is also located in my memories of middle school and beyond. It may have been my first non-Clintonville pizza pie (it is located yards from the border of Clintonville and Worthington. Pizza House is still the place that tradition dictates that I travel to when my childhood friend comes to town as we visit a place we have gone to since we were kids.

Pizza House was hot in the 1980′s, it appeared in numerous publications as one of the best pizzas in Columbus. Even as the Columbus pizza palate has grown over time, I would still include the Pizza House pepperoni and sausage pizza among my top twenty-one pizzas in Columbus. Their open-faced meatball sandwich is one of my top ten comfort foods involving bread. Pizza House is an institution in the neighborhoods around 161 and Sinclair as well as the communities on the other side of the tracks. Business is still booming and carry out business is brisk. Although the business has fallen off the media radar it is still doing quite well.

Pizza House turns fifty in the fall. It opened in 1961. The first non family employee was fifteen year old Billy Colasante. He stayed with Pizza House when it moved in 1991 then he bought the business in 1993. Some employees have worked there over thirty years, a rare thing in any business. The familiar faces among veteran employees and other Colasantes working in the house does give the restaurant a friendly, family feeling. The interior is lined with local little league baseball and soccer trophies accumulated from years of supporting teams in the area.

Any small business, especially in the restaurant trade, that can thrive after fifty years must be doing something right. In the case of Pizza House it is the case of the same people making the same product consistently and taking the time to connect with the community.

Pizza House
747 Lincoln Ave.
Columbus (and my memories)

Pizza House on Urbanspoon

Posted in pizza, restaurants, sandwiches | Tagged: | 3 Comments »

Nazareth Restaurant and Deli

Posted by cmh gourmand on June 15, 2011


(Note: Yes, the wreath is still hanging in May, that is part of the charm)

For readers of alteatsColumbus.com, this is a rerun. It you have never clicked on it or with it, do so – there is a lot of great eats for you to discover there.

Nazareth Restaurant and Deli is an icon of “alt eats” in Columbus. It opened over twenty years ago in the Columbus Square Shopping Center at SR 161 and Cleveland Ave. This is an area called the United Nations of Columbus food by a few. Nazareth was a pioneer in the non-campus, non-chinese cuisine of northern Columbus. The restaurant quickly became a local favorite due to good food at a good price as well as the engaging personality of owner Hany Baransi. He is quite a character – the restaurant web page lists one of his signature quotes “I love your man” and warns diners that Nazareth is not responsible for food addictions. The phrase Ahlan Wa Sah Lan (welcome in Arabic) greets diners in the parking lot and inside at the entrance. Visitors are welcomed by the image of Hany wielding a baseball bat in a Santa hat. The baseball bat is his trademark. He can be seen toting it with him in the aisles. I am not sure about the back story on that bat….and I am reluctant to ask. Hany hails from Israel so I am sure he tough when the occasion calls for it.

The restaurant has been successful over the years. Last year Nazareth moved into a former Chili’s restaurant about one-quarter mile from its original location. The move greatly expanded the dining area and added a bar to the mix. On my visit, the bar was packed and a one man band singing 1970′s era cover songs echoed throughout the restaurant. Nazareth is still a family operation with family members mixed among employees in the kitchen and waiting tables too.

The menu is classic Middle Eastern offering all of the staples of this type of cuisine. There are some unexpected items for diversity sake including Freedom Fries, a grilled bologna sandwich, Rachel’s gyro with American cheese, a Catfish gyro and beer-battered onion rings.

Don’t be mistaken, these are not leftovers from Chili’s. The above are all well executed comfort food. Hany’s daughter explained that when families come in, some of the older and younger people are not sure what to do with Middle Eastern fare so Hany wants everyone to have something that can be enjoyed. He might tempt reluctant diners to try some hoummus then led them slowly into culinary diversity.

The Middle Eastern entrees are all well done with several being my best loved versions / interpretations in the city. One of my favorites is the Vegetarian Mediterranean Dinner which includes – hoummus, baba ghannoug, falafel and tabbouli salad served with pita bread. The pita bread is served warm which is a small but much appreciated difference. All other baba’s I have had pale in comparison to this one. Somehow it is a little less bitter, a bit more balanced and maybe has a little more love it in. I can’t fully explain the je ne sais quoi of this dish. On this subject my dining companion said “it made whatever my mother used to do with eggplant a crime that should be punishable by jail time or hard labor.” That being said let’s move along to more of the menu.

There are two versions of grape leaves. One is vegetarian and the other is stuffed with ground meat as well as rice, mint and a mix of spices. Both are excellent. While these grape leaves are smaller versions than encountered most places they pack a big, flavorful punch.

Lentils and Rice is another signature dish. The main ingredients are mixed with caramelized onions, seasoned with cumin and other spices. Nazareth’s House Sauce is served on the side (I have not figured out all of the substances in the sauce yet but the sum of the parts is very good).

The menu includes several other dishes, good soups and salads as well as desserts. My favorite item is the smallest and most simple. A sampler dish of pickled baby eggplant, pickled turnips, pickles, cucumbers, olives and Feta cheese is served with some entrees. I could eat this sampler all night with some warm pita bread and ignore anything else in front of me.

I invite you to visit Hany and his bat some day soon to pay tribute to Columbus “alt eats” history.

Nazareth Restaurant and Deli
2700 Northland Plaza Dr (SR 161/Dublin Granville Road, just east of Cleveland Ave)
614.899.1177
Sun-Thurs: 11:00 am – 9:00 pm
Fri-Sat:11:00 am – 10:00 pm

Nazareth Restaurant & Deli on Urbanspoon

Posted in restaurants | Tagged: | 3 Comments »

Rivage Atlantique: Exploring The Gastropub

Posted by cmh gourmand on June 8, 2011

menu

When reading about Rivage Atlantique I found the name a bit off-putting. This new restaurant is located in the Olde Worthington Quarter in the former location of a few failed restaurants. I see no signs of Rivage failing. I also see a loyal following developing already. I did a walk through of Rivage one Saturday during the Old Worthington Farmers Market. I was instantly impressed. I asked a guy dressed in very casual clothes for a printed look at their fare and he gave me copies of the various menus. He also introduced himself as Rich and started talking about what Rivage wants do and serve. Considering I was unshowered, a little sweaty and donning my cool (?) cowboy hat, the extra service was unexpected. At the time I did not know Rich was the executive chef.

Parking at Rivage can be a little tight considering The Quarter also sees people flooding in to House Wine, Graeter’s, Worthington Inn and other places. There is plenty of public parking a short walk away so get a bit for pre-meal exercise with a stroll. Rivage is divided into two sections. The main dining area seats about sixty or so. The back room, which has its own entrance, houses the Gastropub featuring a not so traditional bar menu as well as the option to order off the menu from the front of the house as well. The Gastropub has a large variety of craft beers on tab as well as bottles. The wine selection has depth as well. The pub side has multiple TV’s set up for the sports crowd and an eclectic mix of music for the rest of us.

The Gastropub menu is more than a back room assortment of bar snacks. This menu easily stands on its own. Selections include an oyster raw bar, bisque and chowder, more oysters, shrimp, clams, low country crab dip, trout pate, Applewood smoked pimento cheese dip and more. Portions are generous and well prepared. The restaurant uses a stone hearth oven for a variety of pizzas including White Lobster Pie (lobster, basil, ricotta and olive oil) and the Butchershop (Italian sausage, pepperoni, salami, provolone and whole milk mozzarella with thick house made sauce).

The Cuban Sliders would get a thumbs up from residents of Miami. The bread is pressed in the grill just right to compliment the spiced pork loin (some meats are smoked in-house), ham, house-made spicy mustard, onion and swiss cheese. There are twenty items on the Gastropub menu which offers more than enough depth for a meal or a snack.

The menu in the front of the house deserves a mention as well. It is very seafood focused with half of the two page menu involving a variety of fish, scallops, shrimp, mussels and more.

Rivage is a worthy port of call when visiting Olde Worthington.

Rivage Atlantique
652 High Street
Olde Worthington

Posted in bar, restaurants | Tagged: , | 2 Comments »

Latitude 41: Changing the Attitude on Downtown Dining

Posted by cmh gourmand on June 2, 2011

Some say Downtown Dining is dead. Others loath downtown, fearing one way streets, parking meters and the search for a parking spot without an obscure towing ordinance. If you are ready to change your attitude on these matters then it is time to try out Latitude 41. This restaurant is “all that and a bag serving of chips (with sea salt of course).

To the casual observer, Latitude 41 might have some elements going against it. It is downtown. It is in a hotel. It does not look like a restaurant from the outside and it takes a bit of side stepping to get to the dining area when arriving. These are all trivial. Three facts trump these concerns. The food is phenomenal, the service is most often superior and valet parking is three bucks.

Why does bargain valet parking make a difference? If it can woo me, then it can woo you too and let you do the right things which would be dining here frequently. As a rule I do not engage in valet parking. This is due to long-established history of frugality. I will often drop off my guests and drive around searching for free parking while they enjoy the services of the restaurant. Such is not my case at Latitude 41. For three dollars, I leave my car at the door and walk in like a rock star. I don’t have to worry about finding a place to park and having change for a meter. I don’t have to worry about the weather on the way back to my car. Doing the math, $3 may be less than I would put in a meter since my average stay for dinner usually exceeds two hours. If you are doing dinner and a show downtown, this valet deal is a steal. It is a little touch but it makes a big difference. Use the money you save to tip your valet.

Simple touches and a subtle approach to all things are the hallmark of Latitude 41. The kitchen crew and front of the house team are dedicated to executing everything well from your greeting to presenting your bill. The enthusiasm and authenticity of manager Roger Vivas is infectious. He welcomes as many diners as he can and makes a sincere effort to get to know his customers by name. The customer focus is shared by his staff. I have visited six times this year. In addition to having my favorite servers Tiffany and Sarah to help me with my selections, Roger always makes an effort to check in when he has time and truly makes me feel welcome, often adding a cocktail suggestion to his greeting.

I am a bit biased about Chef David Maclennan in part because I have had a few beers with him in our off hours. However my true bias comes from the respect I have for his food first focus. David does value good presentation however all of his dishes have real substance. This is simple fare with a twist or an upgrade instead flair and a gimmick. The food is locally obtained when possible and Chef Dave is in the process of planting a rooftop garden to supplement is locavore fare. Chef is also open to having some fun with his food such as Brezel pretzels served with house made cheese sauce and rabbit pot pie made on a double dog dare.

An excellent introduction to what Latitude 41 has to offer comes in four course and six course tasting menus. This is the opportunity for the kitchen to show their cooking chops in several signature plates. The selections vary but most often several are pulled from or inspired by the current menu. If on the fence between six courses or four, opt for the larger and ask your companion go with the smaller version. Another excellent first encounter can be had by attacking the menu via the artisan flatbreads and small plate selections. Some of my favorites from the current line up are the Lobster Mac and Cheese (includes orechiette, mascarpone, truffle oil, parmesan and tuile) as well as their two styles of fries: the hand-cut fries served with truffle, parmesan cheese, spicy house made ketchup and malt vinegar aioli or the Frenchie Fries featuring idaho wedges covered with beef bourguignon, farm style cheese curds and a soft poached egg. Think of the later as poutine on steroids. When available, mussels are a sure thing. It is not uncommon to ask for extra bread to scoop up the “broth” left on the bowl when finished.

The atmosphere of the “house” is refined and relaxed. Jeans are as common as a three-piece. Service reflects this approach as well. Servers are friendly but professional in tone and offer just enough attention without being distracting or interrupting the good conversation that comes with a meal. The bar is a comfortable spot for solo diners although your host or hostess does a wonderful job choosing just the right spot for a table for one. Plenty of window seats allow visitors to watch the coming and goings of downtown Columbus along Third Street. Latitude 41 unveiled their outside patio this spring. It is small area that seats about twenty along East Gay Street. There are a few burners placed outside for warmth and cozy ambiance at the tables. A growing following is choosing the Latitude 41 happy hour as a great excuse to stay downtown past quitting time.

Downtown Dining is not dead, it is growing. In addition to Latitude 41 several other “pioneers” including Tip Top Kitchen and Cocktails, Little Palace and The Jury Room are carrying the flag to get our citizens back in the habit of taking a break from the suburban parts of our city to support the growing urban culture of downtown.

Latitude 41
in the Renaissance Hotel
Corner of 3rd and Gay Street
Downtown
614.233.7541

Posted in Gastronomic Stimulus, restaurants | Tagged: | 1 Comment »

Rusty Bucket Wrangles Rogue Root Beer

Posted by cmh gourmand on March 27, 2011

I get many incredible offers. Most come from people in African countries that will give me millions of dollars just to help transfer some money from their country to ours to cut down on paper work and avoid hassle for the estate of a deceased relative with a horribly misspelled name. Some offers come from Russian mail order brides and maybe related to that, it seems that there are some medications I should be taking, I that I can get cheaply. Maybe I should consider the mail order bride option.

The type of offers I would like to get would include: Hey, you are awesome and resourceful and blindingly creative, here is a job that does not suck; or yes you really should write for us, starting now, because you are not boring or pretentious. These offers don’t come and years of trying for them have not yet been productive.

So when the Rusty Bucket asked if I wanted to drink root beer and get some remuneration for my trouble I was curious. I read further. It seems that said root beer was Rogue Root Beer. That fact changed no thanks to yes, pretty please PDQ. As fate would have it, I had Rogue Root Beer in PDX (Portland) recently which was a highlight of five days that were a low point.

I get an interesting array of offers from the food industry that tempt my wallet and threaten to stretch the scope of my blog and my ethics. I almost always say no. The Rusty Bucket offer was perfect. I knew I liked the root beer. I did not know I could get it in Columbus so that knowledge was a gift to me. Rusty Bucket is a locally owned company and aligned with Cameron Mitchell Restaurants so I could support them without hesitation. I knew I was going to rush out for root beer anyway so for the price of gas and a mug of root beer – game on! Yes, I will write for root beer so here we go.

It seems that if you are planning on going Rogue, Columbus is the place to do it. Rusty Bucket charmed this Portland-centric purveyor of tasty drinks into sending most of it’s product line here for serving. This is unique for Columbus and Ohio and the Midwest and most of the country for that matter. The only other states that have Rogue Root Beer are Oregon and Washington. You can pretend you are in Portland while sitting inside 270.

I am not a big pop drinker (we say pop in Columbus, accept it, move on). I NEED to have a coke with pizza to complete the experience. However, I am an absolute sucker for a good Root Beer. I have invested a good deal of time searching for the perfect root beer experience. I found a few that are worth traveling for – Virgil’s Root Beer and Sioux City Root Beer were my brews of choice.

Why might you want to make the effort to try Rogue Root Beer? Because they make it right and because Rusty Bucket pours it right. Rogue approaches their root beer with the same attention to detail and devotion they invest in their craft beers. Their root beer is made with 100% pure dark brown sugar. It has a nice dose of Sassafras. This is draft root beer, served from a tap into a cold, frosted mug with just a bit of foaming head. It may be the most perfect root beer experience in town. Visions of childhood bike rides to the Clintonville A&W drive-in come to mind when I take a sip. To appeal to the child in you or the child tagging along with you, Rusty Bucket also offers kid sized mugs and root beer floats in both sizes.

If you want to completely go Rogue, Rusty Bucket serves several Rogue beers on draft. You can also sample Rogue’s other roguish spirits including Dead Guy Whiskey, Spruce Gin and White Rum. A daily drink special involves soaking a giant chunk of pineapple with brown sugar, vanilla beans and Rogue white rum, then adding some ice and more rum. Yum.

On Tuesdays, a featured drink is the Rogue Spruce Gin Gimlet. I had not been to Rusty Bucket for a while so I decided to try out multiple locations in my root beer research. For your first Rogue run I suggest trying out the Lane Avenue location and hoping that Katie is tending bar when you walk in. She knows all things Rogue and can talk you through your choices while you enjoy a frosty root beer.

Posted in bar, beer, beverages, culinary knowledge, restaurants | Tagged: , | 3 Comments »

Taqueria Mercado: Fairfield, Ohio. A Good Goat Taco is Never Too Far Away

Posted by cmh gourmand on March 15, 2011

I had one sole purpose for frequenting Fairfield, Ohio (the greater Cincinnati area one) – Jungle Jim’s. It is the best grocery store ever. I have never written about it because they do not allow photography. However, there is a Mexican Restaurant 1.4 miles down the Dixie Highway that is worth your time when visiting Fairfield and may be worth the drive without the Jungle Jim’s detour side trip.

Taqueria Mercado is not just a restaurant but a one stop shop for most things Mexican including a small grocery store (tienda), a bakery (panaderia) and a meat counter. Breakfast is served daily and includes fresh squeezed orange juice and six sumptuous Mexican egg dishes which can also be converted to torta or burrito form on request. They make the best Huevos Rancheros that I am aware of in the State of Ohio. Si es la verdad.

Tacos are served Mexican style with no dumbing down for the Gringos. The meat selections would make any Columbus Taco Truck fan envious (carne asada, al pastor pork, barbacoa, carnitas, chorizo, tripe, saudero and Lengua (tongue). The lunch/dinner menu includes all the standards: burritos, quesadillas, fajitas, etc. as well as some unexpectedly good vegetarian options, several shrimp dishes and exceptional house dinner plates.

For first time visitors, I suggest working as a team by ordering as much as possible with at least some initial intention of sharing. The House Special includes grilled chicken, grilled shrimp and well-seasoned Mexican rice covered in the house white Mexican cheese dip. Get the cheese dip on something, on everything if possible. Many of the entrees are served with fresh, steaming hot tortillas which will need at least five minutes to cool down. Chips and salsa costs money here – which might come as a shock to some that are used to gringoized Mexican chains but what Taqueria Mercado has to offer is well worth $1.50. The chips are delightfully fresh and not mass produced. The salsa is spectacular and served in a large bowl. It was so good, I considered taking some to drink as shots later. There are several squirt bottle sauces at the table as well, they are equally good and immensely edible and drinkable.

Speaking of shots, I should give a shout out to the Margaritas. The large house margarita on the rocks is very good. It has a latent, stealthy slam-dunk drunkenness power that should not be unobserved or underappreciated. I am glad a had a designated driver and that I opted not to buy anything during my somewhat impaired first thirty minutes at Jungle Jim’s.

Last and not least, I will bring the weekend specials to your attention. Taqueria Mercado got goat. Good goat. Very good, goaty, well-cooked goat. On Saturday and Sunday you can order goat tacos, a platter of perfectly cooked goat meat or goat soup. Or you could get Menudo, aka, Tripe soup. Taqueria Mercado also offers a daily special during each weekday including authentic favorites such as huaraches and pozole.

Desserts are made in house at the bakery. The Tres Leches is tasty. I have not sampled much Mexican fare in the Cincinnati metro area but I will go head and say this is probably the best in that city. I have sampled just about every Latino fueled restaurant in Columbus and based on that extensive research I can say that Taqueria Mercado is as good as the best Columbus has to offer. The restaurant is worth the drive to Fairfield if you want to eat great Mexican food at a very good price.

Taqueria Mercado
6507 Dixie Highway
Fairfield
513.942.4943
Monday to Sunday 9:00 am to 9:30 pm

Posted in restaurants, Road Trip | Tagged: | 2 Comments »

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