CMH Gourmand

Culinary Discovery & Misadventures in the Ice Cream Capital of the World (Columbus)

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Explorer’s Club: Sunday Suppers & New Voyages of Discovery

Posted by cmh gourmand on March 12, 2012

To the best of my recollection, Lost Planet Pizza and Pasta passed away in 2000 and was repurposed as Rickys Galaxy until August of 2001. In many ways Lost Planet never fully eclipsed. The eclectic fusion pastas were the kissing cousins of the Galaxy Cafe and Starliner Diner. Starliner never went away and recipes from Lost Planet found their way into the kitchen of Betty’s with a few strands of culinary DNA remaining in a dish or two. Lost Planet had a great pizza and pasta buffet for lunch time which I would enjoy on a day off as often as possible. Several buffet runs preserved the memory of these meals for a lifetime.

When the Explorer’s Club came back into my universe this past October, I had only hoped to see a few of the Galaxy Cafe recipes return, not wanting to be greedy and hope for everything I wanted.
During a radio interview with the dynamic duo of Barnes and Studer they mentioned starting a Sunday Supper series of pizza and pastas. Pitter. Patter. Pitter. YES!

I was in Savannah during opening night. The pipes decided to burst for the second Sunday of the Series. So after waiting twelve years, nothing was going to stop me from the third edition of Sunday Supper at The Explorer’s Club.


Was it everything I hoped for and dreamed of for a dozen years. The pastas, yes and the pizzas no. However, the pizzas are still good, they just seem to be lacking something from days of yore – maybe a bit of crispness or a more madcap array of toppings. It was good. So go, I forgot to take any photos of my meal until the end.

Forgive the artistic laziness but do appreciate the art of the soft sell as I proceed to post the menu for your review.

The Explorer’s Club is holding it’s own in Merion Village and is working to be an anchor in the community. If you have a community group in the area, give them a call, they might be able to provide some meeting space in the party room. A patio is due to debut in a few weeks. A series of beer and wine dinners are in store for the third Thursday of each month.

On March 15th, there will be a Great Lakes Beer tasting with six beers, lots of appetizers and a pint glass for the cost of $15. Expect some more events and special dinners as the summer progresses.

I think the food and commitment to the community are enough to warrant an expedition to the Explorer’s Club but if you need an extra incentive – how about supporting the producers they do by eating local outside of your locality. See some of the vendors The Explorer’s Club supports listed below.

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The Deepwood Dagwood for Dine Originals Week

Posted by cmh gourmand on March 8, 2012

Here is the thing. A good number of people like Deepwood. Unfortunately it seems they never show up at the same time. Well… with the exception of my lunch this past Wednesday. I arrived during what may have been a (Columbus) Alive and Crave afternoon pow-wow / retreat. Other than us, Deepwood was Deadwood. Crickets. Tumbleweeds. Spagetti western music was faintly playing in my subconscious.

I would describe Deepwood as subdued. Unlike Cheers, where everyone knows your name when you walk in the door, at Deepwood, you will receive a pleasant, faint smile and nice service. Subdued. I like it. It aids the digestion. It is relaxing.

The is Dine Originals Restaurant Week, a time for many of our local independent restaurants to shine and show off the best they can do to lure in new customers and shake things up for loyal regulars. Looking for a deal of deals, the various $10 menus are what I target. My old standby was the Pistacia Vera sampler but that has been off the rotation for the last two cycles (Anne and Spencer….think about the children, they need more than Shirred eggs).

I have always sought out the value of the Deepwood lunch but unless you work downtown and actually know where Deepwood is (that was the quiz part of the post) this special experience is limited to a few. If you are reading this early Friday morning, you still have some time to call in sick and give this menu a shot. For the rest of you who can never have this experience, allow me to share.

Here is the menu for $10.

Your choice of any of our sodas

The Deepwood-Our version of the Classic & Colossal Dagwood

Meats, Cheeses and Condiments Layered between House-Made Pepper Jack Bread, House-Made Corned Beef, Tasso Ham and Mortadella Schmear, Roasted Turkey. House-Made Mozzarella, Smoked Gouda. Roasted Tomato, Pickled Peppers, Chef’s Garden Leaf Arugula, Mustard Aioli, Red Onion Jam, Fried Olive Skewer. House-Made Potato Chips

or

Tasting of Signature Petite Sandwiches

New England Lobster Roll with Hand Cut-Fries, House-Made Pastrami with Potato Chips, Lentil Patty with Deepwood Tavern Pickled Vegetables

and

Lemon Meringue Pie

At this point regular readers of CMH Gourmand know what happened. Fearing the Sophie’s Choice of having to decide between choices for this rare lunchtime visit, I played it safe and got both.

The Verdict? Reread the menu above. The size of the description matches the quality and satifisfaction of the Deepwood Dagwood. What a good sandwich! It was easily the winner of the two choices. Exceptional cuts of meat, good flavor. The chips were incredibly good with some house made ketchup I reallocated from the French Fries. Hard to see in the photograph but the mini battered and fried olives of the skewer were really well executed. I am sure they elicit a faint, subdued smile in the backroom. If you have to choose go with the Dagwood.

The Petite Sandwiches are worth the price. Chef Brian definitely had a fun time creating both offerings but I was not as emotionally satisfied after the signature sandwiches. I will state a case for the lentil burger patty sample as better than the hallowed Northstar Veggie burger patty. Really. Serious. The fries are pretty close to perfect. Keep frying Deepwood, you do it well.

As for the pie, if by pie, one means a mini biscuit sized puff of homemade goodness on a stick….OK, but let’s call this a pie pop on the next online menu.

If you feel a little cheated after reading this, knowing that you will not have such an experience for this Dine Originals Week, then I give you this task. Go to Deepwood this month and tell the staff you would like them to serve lunch on a Saturday for the next Dine Originals Week.

If you have missed out on Deepwood, give them a shot. The beer selection, house crafted cocktails and entrees are all well executed. Maybe those that are inclined, could give up not going to Deepwood for Lent.

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89 Fish, One Stuffed Pork Loin and a side of Disclaimer

Posted by cmh gourmand on February 26, 2012

There are rules for food writing. There is an unwritten law for most food bloggers in Columbus. Violation of the law leads to a sideways look as well as concern and discussion about breaking the code. I follow the code within the realm of reason. A review can not be bought, bartered, traded or guilted. I say no all the time to free offers, free food and perks. On occasion, I say yes.

I will say yes to write about something I believe in or something I already like or planned to consume. In my online history I have (with a noted disclaimer) written about The Chef’s Garden, Cleveland, Rogue Root Beer and Dine Originals. At the present I have overdue debts to Sandusky and Huron Ohio as well as Pittsburgh.

In the case of 89 Fish I am breaking several of my other rules including.

“Don’t write about a place that has not been open for at least one month, ideally two.”

“Don’t write about restaurants that base their menu in fish (since I am allergic to fish).

I am a food writer (with a blog vs. a blogger that writes) that as a general rule does not write reviews. Reviews are for critics under the auspices of being objective in a field that is subjective on the best of days. My opinion has been that no one needs my help finding a bad place. I write about things I like because it is much more enjoyable and rewarding that ripping something apart.

I get offers like the one below and most often I say no.

We are excited to announce the opening of 89 Fish & Grill, conveniently located in the Arena District at 89 E. Nationwide Blvd.

Because you know what’s new in Columbus and where to find all of the good eats, we would like to cordially invite you to join us for dinner as a part of our debut into Columbus restaurant society.

89 Fish & Grill was created to offer an elegant experience in a casual atmosphere with a seasonal menu defined by the modern way of eating: fresh, local and sustainable. The seafood is flown in fresh daily and prepared with seasonal Ohio ingredients. The natural deep wood and picturesque bar has house-made specialty cocktails and an extensive wine list.

Columbus needed a new way to experience what’s fresh and 89 offers a literal adventure into great food, without driving to the suburbs. The fish may not be local, but we are.

Here are the details:
· Join us for dinner either Tuesday, February 21 or Wednesday, February 22, 2012
· Dinner is served 5-10 p.m.
· Reserve* your table by emailing Cathlin A**** at cathlin@*******.com
· Your meal is on us (up to 2 people and $100.00 and does not include alcohol)

Your review of our restaurant and dining experience would be greatly appreciated as we are eager to celebrate this amazing gathering space and fresh food with others.

We also encourage you to join our online community. Exclusive specials will be run through check-ins on Foursquare, Twitter re-tweets and more. Please visit www.89fishandgrill.com.

*Must make reservations or meal will not be complimentary.

So as I said, I typically say no, but I said yes. Here is why.

The request is well written and provides some background. It asks for a review but does not expect one. It provides guidelines and asks for a reservation. It was handled very professionally and I was given a budget but no guidelines.

More importantly, as someone allergic to fish – I never rush out to a fish restaurant so it could have been years before I felt the need to check out 89 Fish. Many of the places I write about involve some type of culinary risk – but in the case of fish, I am not willing to risk my own money. My mission – find something on the menu that I could eat and would enjoy. In my experience most fish based restaurants offer a chicken dish, pasta dish and a burger and leave it at that. Did this place have the gumption to break that mold?

Two other reasons why I said yes. This is a locally owned restaurant taking a risk on downtown. Although others are again opening up shop downtown – the masses have not started to follow yet, so I have to admire a restaurant rolling the dice in this economy.

The front of the house is experienced. General Manager Mary Beth Zakany worked for Max and Erma’s in the early days (with Cameron Mitchell), then the 55 Group (with Cameron Mitchell) and them for Cameron Mitchell Restaurants for fifteen years. Chef John Beck in the back of the house worked for RJ Snappers. Owner Richard Stopper is a veteran of the 55 Group and RJ Snappers. To a large section of pre 1995 Columbus, the most important item to mention at this point is that yes – the restaurant does serve 55 salad dressing.

Other things I liked before I crossed the door. The menu features Ohio raised Chicken and Pork. Cincinnati goat cheese and a house beer crafted in Zanesville. The menu denotes Vegan, Halal, Kosher and Gluten Free selections (however Straightedge Hippy is not noted). The website is simple and music free.

Cutting to the chase. The pork loin. As described: Dried Fruit Stuffed Pork Tenderloin: Ohio pork stuffed with figs, apricots,cranberries, golden raisins and sage, sherry-bacon vinaigrette. It was perfectly cooked – just a hint of pink in the middle, tender and juicy, easy to cut but not soft texture with a combination of melt in your mouth and slight resistance to the bit at the same time. The flavor of the fruit was there when I wanted it but very muted. The potatoes were whipped in the style of my MCL memories. It was a very good dish for the $19.00 and a suitable entrée for a non fish eater. I would go back for that. So would my designated diner.

The place is new and is working out kinks. My server might have been a bit less enthusiastic and could have had a bit more knowledge on the menu. All of these things will right themselves in time. Mary Beth was a pleasure to speak with and very well versed in what the house wants to bring to the table. In the short-term, I would ask that they add more Ohio and local beers to showcase to the three hotels filled with schools of visitors surrounding 89 Fish.

Thanks for the free meal and the opportunity. I don’t mind breaking my rules for this pork loin.

89 Fish & Grill
89 E Nationwide Blvd.
Downtown / Arena District

614.586.4585

Posted in restaurants | Tagged: | 1 Comment »

Explorers Club: My First Expeditions

Posted by cmh gourmand on October 23, 2011

I am pleased. I am happy. Darn it, I might even use the word ecstatic! I have waited ten years and two months for this sign.

So what is the big deal? The Explorer’s Club is open. Yes, it is a restaurant. Ricky Barnes is cooking in the kitchen and Tracy Studer is guiding the front of the house. If you don’t recognize these names then you probably did not dine out in Columbus from the early 1990′s to 2001 (The Galaxy Cafe, Lost Planet Pizza and Pasta, Ricky’s Galaxy). Ricky and Tracy describe the Explorer’s Club as the Galaxy grown up. A few of the dishes and all of the flavors of Galaxies past are on the menu. The menu, decor and focus on service reflect changes in Tracy, Ricky and the rest of us during the last decade.

So a blast from the past has returned. Many eaters from the Columbus dining scene of old have fond memories of Ricky’s culinary accomplishments. Another element adding to the bigness of the deal is the location. I have discussed growing downtown dining and why this is important to the city. A good restaurant can be a foundation or launching point for a community (for example Yellow Brick Pizza and Angry Baker in Olde Town East). The Explorer’s Club is located on South High in Merion Village. The plucky neighborhood has limited eating options within their community, so a successful restaurant with good food can be a vibrant asset to the area. A past effort in the space, Coyote Jane’s, was a horrible disappointment (Did I just write something negative? Yes, and readers know I never do that. I will say the food, service and, well, everything was memorable, but not because it was good).

So with all of this good karma swelling up I must admit I had some trepidation. This was like revisiting an old flame. Are things ever as good as we remember them? I changed, they changed. Was the awesomeness of the Galaxy just a fond memory I had built up over the years. What if I did not like it? More importantly, what if you don’t like it. I don’t know if I can deal with the Galaxy imploding again the Explorer’s Club closing it’s doors.

I visited during a dry run night and ate for free. I went the next two days for brunch and was happy to pay for meals just as good at a good value. The verdict: YES! wonderful, near perfect, exciting, tasty. The menu may have an aspect of nostalgia but the flavor is there and a explorers spirit of pushing the limits. Considering the Explorer’s Club was open just to test drive the menu, train new servers and cooks and for experimenting with a few ideas, the end result was spectacular. I typically don’t try out a new restaurant for at least a month after opening so they can work out any kinks and I can walk through the door with reasonable expectations. On paper the Explorer’s Club should not have had much of a chance to blow me away based on my fervent loyalty of the past. I am looking forward to what the Explorer’s Club can do with a more seasoned staff and a few weeks of menu enhancements. Changes are already in the works. A bar menu is in the process of development as well as a limited selection of cocktails.

The food and the music is impressively sourced locally when possible. Here is a list of some of the local purveyors used:

Used Kids Records (the genres of music mix well with the menu)
Growers First / Crimson Cup (Coffee and Tea)
Shagbark Seed and Mill Company (from my food first favorite Athens, Ohio)
Gerber cage free, organic vegetarian fed chicken
OSU Agricultural egg hormone and antibiotic free pork
Stutzman Farms (grains/flour)

Not local, but definitely reflective of the restaurant, is where the artwork is sourced from. Most of the prints are by Jeb Loy Nichols, Wales UK.

Nichol’s portraits of famous or infamous names you may have heard include: John Coltrane, Amelia Earhart, Hank Aaron, Wendell Berry, Miles Davis, Nina Simone, Harvey Milk and Woody Gutherie. All were pioneers in their fields and times. The tagline of the Explorers Club is Simple – Pioneering – Flavor. The Galaxy was a pioneer in Columbus dining in the day and today, Explorers Club has taken that spirit and refined it. Staking a claim in Merion Village could be pioneering as well, I hope others will follow to add to the spice of this neighborhood.

So after all of this historical and philosophic foreplay, it is time to focus on the food.

Dinner was my first experience (note a few menu items may change of get tweaked by the time you travel to the Explorer’s Club. The item I hoped to see the most was black bean hummus. It is on the menu and is now served with garlic citrus pizza bread (looks and tastes like the best pita bread I have ever had). The hummus is great. I do miss the giant pool of garlic sauce that topped the 1993 – 2001 version but since that causes significant “personal space” issues for me, I figure it was omitted for the safety of the general public.

I also ordered the chicken quesadilla with charred salsa and sour cream. The salsa packed some significant heat but paired with the cool sour cream accentuated the flavors of everything on the plate.

The winner of the dinner entrees selected was the beef brisket (with black beans, redskin potatoes and jalapeno slaw). The brisket fell apart with very light pressure from my fork. It has a complimentary mix of flavors in the broth to spice things up. My dining companion is not a fan of the jalapeno but she found the proportion of pepper to slaw to be perfect balance of heat and cool.

For dessert there was only one choice I could allow, another blast from my past, Mrs. Barnes Pumpkin Dessert (I recalled this being called Surpise). Oh, yes. This is no pumpkin pie. It is served with cream and fresh berries. It might best be described as a fusion of cake, pie and cheesecake. It is good, that is all that matters.

I woke up the following day and got some of the old gang together to go back from brunch (after college a group of six to ten of us were there almost every Saturday for one or two meals). Longtime readers know I have little interest in breakfast with very few exceptions, Explorers Club is on the short list. I liked my group meal so much I went back the next day solo to sample the only item I did not try the day before.

Another menu item I was passionately, desperately, pathetically hoping for was museli. This simple dish was the hallmark for all other museli experiences in my life, with the exception of a serving I had in Zug, Switzerland every subsequent museli left me wanting and musing about why Ricky would create something so good and take it away. The 2011 version is as good as any and quite photogenic.

Next was the Sophie’s Choice of toast: Cuban French Toast with fruit vs. Grilled Cinnamon Bread with fruit and cream. The Gourmand approach to problem solving goes something like this, “when in doubt, get both”. It was the right choice. Both get “best of show” in their classes. I can not advise you to pick one over the other. The crunchy, funnel cake like batter on the French Toast is borderline addictive. French or not, Cuban bread is the finest way to experience this dish. As for the Cinnamon Bread, the cream was great – I would love to see more on teh side next time.

(I mean really, how could you choose?)

All the breads are made in-house at Explorers Club. The bread is fresh, hearty and serves as a great base for many of the dishes or a compliment for dipping sauces on the side. One their best uses of bread is the Fried Egg sandwich served on Ciabatta with Muenster Cheese and Jalapeno slaw with redskin potatoes on the side. This is a bit messy to eat but who cares, it might be the best breakfast sandwich (non-traditional category) in town.

Love at first bite? In my case, they had me at OPEN. Trying to be objective, would I feel the same way about Explorers Club without the prior history? Yes. If anything my expectations and hopes may have made impressing me more difficult. Considering that more additions and improvements are in the works for the coming weeks, it is easy to believe their grade of A going to A+. The Explorer’s Club is worth exploring. I would suggest going for both a dinner and brunch to gauge the potential that is here.

I will be writing about the Explorers Club more for sure. I am interested in what the bar menu will have to offer as well as the variety of cocktails appearing behind the bar. Did I mention I was really happy?

The Explorer’s Club opens the doors to the world on October 28th, 2011.

Explorers Club
1586 S. High Street
Merion Village / South Side
614.725-0155
Facebook

Explorers Club on Urbanspoon

Posted in breakfast, Locally Sourced, restaurants, sandwiches, Vegetarian Friendly | Tagged: , , | 13 Comments »

Harvest Pizzeria: Pizza + Patio = Pleasure

Posted by cmh gourmand on September 16, 2011

Harvest Pizzeria opened in August and was greeted with immediate, over the top adoration. Is it deserved? I believe so. A true pizzeria has been the missing element in the German Village / Merion Village dining options for quite some time. Granted Planks and Hi Beck have very good pizzas, but a proper pizzeria….not so much.

Harvest Pizzeria is all that and a bowl of olives and maybe a crate of organic something. Owner Chris Crader is no stranger to the dining scene in Columbus. He has very good street credibility in numerous roles. It seems one of his first jobs was in a pizza shop. He combined all of his experience plus a desire to cook with some of what he grows on a one acre farm as well as a rooftop garden into Harvest. Add in a small brick building with the charm of a minimalist European Cafe mix with a welcoming patio and the end result is the slam dunk you may have read about elsewhere. The hype is right about Harvest Pizzeria.

The place has been packed on each visit I have made to Harvest. While all of the above is quite nice, the pressing question is “what about the food”. It is good. It is very good. The cocktails are well done with the house margarita being the winner so far. The wine selection is small and heavily focused on a small number of underappreciated Italian and European wines.

The tiny kitchen could serve the dining area with a light sweat but add in the patio and things get a bit tight for the kitchen staff. The wood/gas oven combination is in constant use and the cooks are in constant motion.

The starters/appetizers are simple with a twist. See the photos below.

Hudson Valley Foie Gras Tourchon with Malvasia grape must (the stuff in the dropper) and crostini

Olives with Cerignola, Castelvetrano, Giaraffa olives, Marcona almonds and fresh herbs

Among the several pizza combinations these three are my favorites: Spicy Yuma (Canal Junction Gouda, chorizo, jalapeno, corn, roasted red pepper, chipotle-spiked tomato sauce) Goat Cheese (with soppressata, caramelized onion, cherry tomato and garlic) and Ohio Bacon with fresh mozzarella, roasted red pepper, aleppo pepper flake and marjoram.

Two desserts take the cake. Butterscotch Budino (caramel sauce, creme fraiche, toasted hazelnuts, vanilla-scented Maldon sea salt) and Pie of the Day.

Harvest is worth a visit. Plan on waiting. Go while you can still enjoy the patio for the season.

495 S. 4th Street
German Village
614.824.1769
http://harvestpizzeria.com

Harvest Pizzeria on Urbanspoon

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Taken in by TAT Ristorante di Famiglia

Posted by cmh gourmand on September 6, 2011

One thing leads to another. I was working on an article about Pizza. TAT was the first Columbus restaurant to serve pizza in 1929. As I was writing, I recalled I had not been to TAT since 2008. That is too long. I drive by their teaser sign on I-70 during the course of my adventures a couple of times per month. My recollection was Columbus Foodie did a very good write up of the place in early 2011. I wondered if I could find a different spin on the place. After finally going back, I decided I did not need to write anything new. The magic of TAT is the timeless nature of the place. The good elements of the restaurant can not be shared too many times.

The fourth generation of Corrova’s as well as members of the third and second generations are still working at TAT. Most family businesses struggle to make it past one lifespan. TAT did, so they must be doing several things right. Many of their servers and employees have been working at the restaurant for decades. Many of their customers have been dining there for decades too. Again, this is impressive. How does this happen? How is a community of owners, employees and customers created at a restaurant?

The secret to the business can be figured out over one Sunday afternoon meal. The current location opened in 1978, nothing has changed since then, in fact, the dining room could easily be from the 1950′s, it looks and feels like a time capsule. Consistency is the key here. Most of the customers are known by name and eating preferences. Three servers work on each half of the TAT and they know the menu, their tables and their customers. In my time there I was called honey eight to ten times and my shoulder was patted on at least twelve occasions. I felt like I was eating at some Italian grandmothers house and that I was the favored son for eating so much so well. I also give credit to TAT for only serving RC products, the PBR of the cola family.

TAT still makes a really good pizza. It is different from the 1929 version. The crust is medium in thickness, crunchy on the edges and chewy on the innards. TAT pizza also passes the next day cold pizza test. I opted for full sensory experience of the Sicilian Delight. Paul and Becke from Columbus Foodie do this spread better justice so take a look at what they had to say.

Here is what this ten course meal includes:

Glass of wine – choice of three types
Italian salad

Homemade soup choice: Wedding or Minestrone

Sicilian Bread (Toasted and drenched in Italian spices and cheese)
Spaghetti with meatball
Veal parmigiana

Meat filled Ravioli
Homemade Italian sausage
Manicotti with ricotta cheese

Spumoni ice cream

Yes, it was a lot. I did not try to finish it.

There is a lot to enjoy at TAT other than the food. The back hallway houses a mural depicting Transcontinental Air Transport, the first coast to coast airline (with some significant help from trains). The waitresses have many stories to tell if they have a free moment. Owner Jimmy Corrova checks in with as many customers as he can. On the Sunday I visited, it appeared that an African-American church or social event had just ended. Many elderly customers came in sporting great looking suits, dresses and hats. It felt like a cross between the Oscars and the 1950′s – there were top hats, perfectly shined shoes, you name it. It felt classy……I did not feel that way in my Commfest T-Shirt.

The sauces are slow-cooked and homemade. Egg Noodles are common, the ravioli appear to be made by hand and there are countless other touches you hope for in an old school, family friendly Italian restaurant. Come for the food, enjoy the atmosphere, appreciate the service and take in a serving of history. TAT serves a full sensory experience, the food is just a portion of the whole.

1210 South James Road
(corner of James and Livingston)
Eastside
614.236.1392
www.tatitalian.com
(TAT has their own jingle / theme song – sing along when you visit the webpage)

Tat Ristorante di Famiglia on Urbanspoon

Posted in pizza, restaurants | Tagged: , | 1 Comment »

The Angry Baker

Posted by cmh gourmand on July 13, 2011

The Angry Baker is anything but angry. Friendly and engaging, Vickie Hink made her way to Columbus to pursue a culinary path. Along the way she moved to Olde Town East and shifted her focus to baking. Shortly after Yellow Brick Pizza opened she walked by the space she now bakes in and decided it would be the perfect spot for her own bakery. This up and coming Olde Town culinary block will soon be joined by a tavern serving Ohio beers and sandwiches with Angry Baker buns. This is an exciting time to live in the area and certainly something to be happy about.

Vicki gets up at 4 am to bake a variety of breads including Brioche. The day starts with breakfast, which is served all day. The crowd pleaser is the Egg Sandwich featuring a fried egg with Bluejacket Dairy Ludlow cheese on a Bacon, Swiss & Chive Scone. Lunch and later includes soups, salads, sandwiches and (vegan) desserts. Many of the ingredients are Ohio Proud such as: Sharp White Cheddar (L.W. Randal’s, Warsaw), Mayfield Havarti (Orwell), Turkey from Cooper Farms (St. Henry), Eggs laid at Hillandale Farms (Croton) and oats, flour, bran, honey, maple syrup – Stutzman Farms (Millersburg).

I sampled The Turkey sandwich piled with cucumber, alfalfa sprouts, dijon, brie, tomato
on Brioche served with a side salad. The sandwich was hearty and tasty. I would get it again. I might get two.

In the dessert category I tried the Blueberry scone (rated 10 out of 10 on the scale of perfect sconeness), the vegan chocolate blueberry brownie (dense, tasted of chocolate without blocking the blueberry flavor) and after seeing the neighboring couple take one bite then sigh with pure bliss – a chocolate eclair (the yellow custard had flavor, richness and thickness with the dough and chocolate complimenting the filling with balance). Did I like the dessert? My run-on description should attest to my feelings on the matter.

The space is small with a tiny table and bar counter seating six or so. There is a table outside as well. Most of the orders are to go. If you have time, score a seat at the counter to watch Vicki construct sandwiches with speed and grace at an incredible pace without breaking a sweat. Placed under the plastic countertop are copies of recipes and cooking notes which creates the feeling of being in Grandma’s kitchen. This practical decor is integrated with the rest of the urban folk style art throughout the space. The highlight of the art (all by the same designer) is the bathroom mural.

If you bake it or pour it, they will come and that is what is happening in Olde Town East. A bustling culinary block is building a better community.

The Angry Baker
891 Oak St
Olde Town East
614.947.0976

The Angry Baker on Urbanspoon

Posted in breakfast, desserts, restaurants, sandwiches | Tagged: | 2 Comments »

Pizza House Pushing Past The Fifty Year Mark

Posted by cmh gourmand on June 20, 2011

Pizza House is located off the beaten path. The current location is in a former convenience store, tucked between Sinclair Road and railroad tracks. The former location was across Lincoln Ave. The original seated maybe twenty while doing a brisk carry out business. Pizza House is also located in my memories of middle school and beyond. It may have been my first non-Clintonville pizza pie (it is located yards from the border of Clintonville and Worthington. Pizza House is still the place that tradition dictates that I travel to when my childhood friend comes to town as we visit a place we have gone to since we were kids.

Pizza House was hot in the 1980′s, it appeared in numerous publications as one of the best pizzas in Columbus. Even as the Columbus pizza palate has grown over time, I would still include the Pizza House pepperoni and sausage pizza among my top twenty-one pizzas in Columbus. Their open-faced meatball sandwich is one of my top ten comfort foods involving bread. Pizza House is an institution in the neighborhoods around 161 and Sinclair as well as the communities on the other side of the tracks. Business is still booming and carry out business is brisk. Although the business has fallen off the media radar it is still doing quite well.

Pizza House turns fifty in the fall. It opened in 1961. The first non family employee was fifteen year old Billy Colasante. He stayed with Pizza House when it moved in 1991 then he bought the business in 1993. Some employees have worked there over thirty years, a rare thing in any business. The familiar faces among veteran employees and other Colasantes working in the house does give the restaurant a friendly, family feeling. The interior is lined with local little league baseball and soccer trophies accumulated from years of supporting teams in the area.

Any small business, especially in the restaurant trade, that can thrive after fifty years must be doing something right. In the case of Pizza House it is the case of the same people making the same product consistently and taking the time to connect with the community.

Pizza House
747 Lincoln Ave.
Columbus (and my memories)

Pizza House on Urbanspoon

Posted in pizza, restaurants, sandwiches | Tagged: | 3 Comments »

Nazareth Restaurant and Deli

Posted by cmh gourmand on June 15, 2011


(Note: Yes, the wreath is still hanging in May, that is part of the charm)

For readers of alteatsColumbus.com, this is a rerun. It you have never clicked on it or with it, do so – there is a lot of great eats for you to discover there.

Nazareth Restaurant and Deli is an icon of “alt eats” in Columbus. It opened over twenty years ago in the Columbus Square Shopping Center at SR 161 and Cleveland Ave. This is an area called the United Nations of Columbus food by a few. Nazareth was a pioneer in the non-campus, non-chinese cuisine of northern Columbus. The restaurant quickly became a local favorite due to good food at a good price as well as the engaging personality of owner Hany Baransi. He is quite a character – the restaurant web page lists one of his signature quotes “I love your man” and warns diners that Nazareth is not responsible for food addictions. The phrase Ahlan Wa Sah Lan (welcome in Arabic) greets diners in the parking lot and inside at the entrance. Visitors are welcomed by the image of Hany wielding a baseball bat in a Santa hat. The baseball bat is his trademark. He can be seen toting it with him in the aisles. I am not sure about the back story on that bat….and I am reluctant to ask. Hany hails from Israel so I am sure he tough when the occasion calls for it.

The restaurant has been successful over the years. Last year Nazareth moved into a former Chili’s restaurant about one-quarter mile from its original location. The move greatly expanded the dining area and added a bar to the mix. On my visit, the bar was packed and a one man band singing 1970′s era cover songs echoed throughout the restaurant. Nazareth is still a family operation with family members mixed among employees in the kitchen and waiting tables too.

The menu is classic Middle Eastern offering all of the staples of this type of cuisine. There are some unexpected items for diversity sake including Freedom Fries, a grilled bologna sandwich, Rachel’s gyro with American cheese, a Catfish gyro and beer-battered onion rings.

Don’t be mistaken, these are not leftovers from Chili’s. The above are all well executed comfort food. Hany’s daughter explained that when families come in, some of the older and younger people are not sure what to do with Middle Eastern fare so Hany wants everyone to have something that can be enjoyed. He might tempt reluctant diners to try some hoummus then led them slowly into culinary diversity.

The Middle Eastern entrees are all well done with several being my best loved versions / interpretations in the city. One of my favorites is the Vegetarian Mediterranean Dinner which includes – hoummus, baba ghannoug, falafel and tabbouli salad served with pita bread. The pita bread is served warm which is a small but much appreciated difference. All other baba’s I have had pale in comparison to this one. Somehow it is a little less bitter, a bit more balanced and maybe has a little more love it in. I can’t fully explain the je ne sais quoi of this dish. On this subject my dining companion said “it made whatever my mother used to do with eggplant a crime that should be punishable by jail time or hard labor.” That being said let’s move along to more of the menu.

There are two versions of grape leaves. One is vegetarian and the other is stuffed with ground meat as well as rice, mint and a mix of spices. Both are excellent. While these grape leaves are smaller versions than encountered most places they pack a big, flavorful punch.

Lentils and Rice is another signature dish. The main ingredients are mixed with caramelized onions, seasoned with cumin and other spices. Nazareth’s House Sauce is served on the side (I have not figured out all of the substances in the sauce yet but the sum of the parts is very good).

The menu includes several other dishes, good soups and salads as well as desserts. My favorite item is the smallest and most simple. A sampler dish of pickled baby eggplant, pickled turnips, pickles, cucumbers, olives and Feta cheese is served with some entrees. I could eat this sampler all night with some warm pita bread and ignore anything else in front of me.

I invite you to visit Hany and his bat some day soon to pay tribute to Columbus “alt eats” history.

Nazareth Restaurant and Deli
2700 Northland Plaza Dr (SR 161/Dublin Granville Road, just east of Cleveland Ave)
614.899.1177
Sun-Thurs: 11:00 am – 9:00 pm
Fri-Sat:11:00 am – 10:00 pm

Nazareth Restaurant & Deli on Urbanspoon

Posted in restaurants | Tagged: | 3 Comments »

Rivage Atlantique: Exploring The Gastropub

Posted by cmh gourmand on June 8, 2011

menu

When reading about Rivage Atlantique I found the name a bit off-putting. This new restaurant is located in the Olde Worthington Quarter in the former location of a few failed restaurants. I see no signs of Rivage failing. I also see a loyal following developing already. I did a walk through of Rivage one Saturday during the Old Worthington Farmers Market. I was instantly impressed. I asked a guy dressed in very casual clothes for a printed look at their fare and he gave me copies of the various menus. He also introduced himself as Rich and started talking about what Rivage wants do and serve. Considering I was unshowered, a little sweaty and donning my cool (?) cowboy hat, the extra service was unexpected. At the time I did not know Rich was the executive chef.

Parking at Rivage can be a little tight considering The Quarter also sees people flooding in to House Wine, Graeter’s, Worthington Inn and other places. There is plenty of public parking a short walk away so get a bit for pre-meal exercise with a stroll. Rivage is divided into two sections. The main dining area seats about sixty or so. The back room, which has its own entrance, houses the Gastropub featuring a not so traditional bar menu as well as the option to order off the menu from the front of the house as well. The Gastropub has a large variety of craft beers on tab as well as bottles. The wine selection has depth as well. The pub side has multiple TV’s set up for the sports crowd and an eclectic mix of music for the rest of us.

The Gastropub menu is more than a back room assortment of bar snacks. This menu easily stands on its own. Selections include an oyster raw bar, bisque and chowder, more oysters, shrimp, clams, low country crab dip, trout pate, Applewood smoked pimento cheese dip and more. Portions are generous and well prepared. The restaurant uses a stone hearth oven for a variety of pizzas including White Lobster Pie (lobster, basil, ricotta and olive oil) and the Butchershop (Italian sausage, pepperoni, salami, provolone and whole milk mozzarella with thick house made sauce).

The Cuban Sliders would get a thumbs up from residents of Miami. The bread is pressed in the grill just right to compliment the spiced pork loin (some meats are smoked in-house), ham, house-made spicy mustard, onion and swiss cheese. There are twenty items on the Gastropub menu which offers more than enough depth for a meal or a snack.

The menu in the front of the house deserves a mention as well. It is very seafood focused with half of the two page menu involving a variety of fish, scallops, shrimp, mussels and more.

Rivage is a worthy port of call when visiting Olde Worthington.

Rivage Atlantique
652 High Street
Olde Worthington

Posted in bar, restaurants | Tagged: , | 2 Comments »

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