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Archive for April, 2013

Donuts – The New Black: A Dialogue on Donuts

Posted by CMH Gourmand on April 7, 2013

donuts

“__________ is the new Black”. Consider the phrase, if you will. You know bacon is/was the new black. We know this is true because it was on a T-Shirt (at Surly Girl Saloon, suggestion to place it on a t-shirt attributed to this writer) and because bacon has become ubiquitous to over the toppedness. Let me ask for your permission to have you to add another phrase to the lexicon and then strip it down and throw it away.

Donuts are the new black. Yes, yes they are. But like the color black, donuts are and were: timeless, never out of style, available and accessible to the common man and understood to joe average. Black and donuts were never new in our lifetime or those of our forefathers. They are always with us but sometimes we see them in a new light.

There has been an ongoing dialogue on donuts in this blog. I think I may have accidentally discovered a trend or renaissance or rebirth just before it hit its stride. Looking back on previous commentaries on donuts, I think my sentiments and mindset was established back in 2011. There is a small segment from an older post I have copied below for review.


There seem to be a lot of special memories connected with donuts as well as special connections to people and place. College and donuts seem to pair well. Late night dining and early morning road trips line up nicely with these doughy treats. There is always a certain camaraderie connected to donuts. Maybe because donut counters are the great equalizer of the masses just like diners are. Maybe it is because the lowly donut is cheap and fast and easy to share. There is a reason boxes of donuts pop up at any office. A box of donuts offers diversity and democracy to everyone – grab a donut and pass the box on. There seem to be a lot of reasons that donuts do us right.


Maybe the tightening of belts with a faltering economy or the death of the cupcake or just the desire to for a simpler treat is why we are starting to see a revisitation of the donut, but with a twist. Just like home-town gal Jeni, asked what if, and started to pair untraditional flavors with ice cream so too are we starting to see a new spin in donuts. I have been looking for like-minded donuteries in my travels and I have found quite a few, most notably Glazed in Charleston, South Carolina and Federal Donuts in Philadelphia (skip the intro if you click on the link). Now, if it was just what I have rambled about so far, I might be inclined to side with you and think this is just me being obsessive and siloing my personal quirks into a paradigm shift, but I am not the only one zeroing in on the rise of donuts. Saveur, the only food magazine I make an effort to purchase and read devoted a whole issue to donuts (see the photo at the top). The issue covered the best places, recipes, donut gear and etc. Jane and Michael Stern listed some of their favorite places and were kind enough to mention Bill’s Donuts. There are many great places in the nation and lot of history to support the donut as an American Icon. The rise of donuts was concurrent with the rise of fast food. While we did see some donut chains rise (Dunkin’ Donuts, Tim Horton’s, Krispy Kreme) and fall (Spudnuts), donuts have largely remained a local, regionalized food in mom and pop shops with a few signature items and recipes that distinguished them from others.

A person can buy a couple donuts on the run for less than a scoop of ice cream, or the cost of one cupcake or the price of a slice of cake. They can eat one on the go without slowing down their day. No fork of knife is needed. And what pairs best with the coffee culture that has perked up in the capital city. Another thing to love or hate about a donut….you need to eat them soon after you buy them. Sure, a few donuts hold up and hold out to the next day, but most are best within a few hours out of the fryer, so it you want the best, you need to eat it soon. Instant gratification….there could be worse things.

I have heard of several new and exciting donuts ventures coming our way. While we wait for those businesses to bloom, I will soon be profiling two donut pioneers who are out now, spreading the gospel of a good donut. I think it will be easy to bring you on as donut disciples. In the meantime, I have a question for you to ponder and answer (I asked this before but received no response). Is it donut or doughnut? Take a surf on the internet, you will see quite a bit on the subject. I picked my side long ago. I go with donut. Donut is more economical, the spelling saves space and ink. The ugh….do we really need that? Sure, dough vs, do is supported by the fact that dough is used in the construction of donuts, but doesn’t that seem a little high falutin, like saying hamburg steak. Again, I want to hear your opinion, but in my mind, a donut is more than the dough, it is the end result of what is added to it. So it deserves a different name, and a donut by any other name, is just not the same.

Posted in donuts | 5 Comments »

Quickbyte: Buckeye Donuts Revisited

Posted by CMH Gourmand on April 3, 2013

I wrote about Buckeye Donuts, briefly, over 5 years ago, as an entry on this blog. The post was long before the Ohio Donut Trail adventures. I can’t say I look for a reason to go to Buckeye Donuts but the place deserves more attention that I gave it years ago. Two things brought Buckeye Donuts back on my radar.

buckeye donuts

Several months ago, I was contacted by a researcher looking for a food to represent the Ohio State University. They pitched me several dishes they found via web research but none of them seemed like a good fit to me based on the criteria they gave me. Try to think of any iconic food for Columbus or The Ohio State University and you are likely to be stumped. I love Adriaticos but there are pizza places on every college campus. I was looking for something that had staying power that did not suck and had at least some history. Looking at OSU today, most of the places I would have eaten at are long gone. Then I thought of Buckeye Donuts. It has been on campus since 1969 with the same owners. What could be more Buckeyecentric than Buckeye Donuts? How about a Buckeye Donut at Buckeye Donuts. Yep – a chocolate frosted yeast donut with a giant dollop of peanut butter in the center to mirror the candy of the same name. That became my suggested pick for the contest. Just as the Buckeyes did not survive March Madness, so too did the Buckeye Donut find defeat in its bracket as well. Drat.

The other inspiration that has Buckeye Donuts on my mind is my upcoming exploration of the new wave of donuteries popping up in Columbus.

A final note. When I visited Buckeye Donuts to get a photo of a Buckeye Donut (which I had never tried), I did have to pause for a moment. This little donut shop has survived over forty years on campus. It has seen nearly every small family business around it closed and it has watched the colossus of Campus Partners take the soul from High Street. It is still standing. It has added gyros, and breakfast and a 24 hour menu to the offerings and it has survived and thrived in a tiny space. Buckeye Donuts defeated the odds and it deserves respect for that alone – whether serving donuts or not.

Posted in donuts, Ohio Donut Trail | Tagged: | Leave a Comment »

A Conversation About the Fall and Timely Demise of the Cupcake Fad

Posted by CMH Gourmand on April 2, 2013

I carry a lot of grudges. However all of mine are rightly held and only maintained for significant transgressions against me or my honor. While I know this may not be healthy for me, it is unavoidable – due to my pedigree – Scottish DNA and a distant connection to the Hatfield’s if I want to grind an axe, it is best to let me do so.

That being said, let me say for the record that I hold no malice for the cupcake or any cupcake maker. I have eaten more than my fair share in my day and I still do. In fact, I am paid to eat cupcakes. People come to my place of employment and a good 4% of them tell me they make the best cupcakes ever. Unfortunately, while many think they make the best cupcakes sadly, few people really do, they usually make one component pretty well. So I eat the cupcake, make a few suggestions, point out that no retailer or wholesaler wants to see another cupcake vendor for at least the rest of the decade and I wish them well. And I suggest that look to expand their product line and diversify their baked good offerings.

The heyday of the cupcake craze occurred almost a decade ago in New York City and the Ivy League areas of the east coast. The high point of cupcakery was when a cupcake shop was prominently featured in the show Sex in the City. There was a cupcake gold rush afterwards. Bakers rushed to expand and liven up their cupcake offerings and some choose to specialize in this baked treat to get in while the getting was good. The problem is as popular as the cupcake became, very few were very satisfying and even fewer were good enough to crave and want to have again sooner instead of later.

Don’t get me wrong, there were and still are some fine cupcakes out there but most of them are a consistent “meh”. Name one cupcake I like, you challenge: Pattycake Bakery Lemon. This never disappoints and I never feel ripped off when I buy one. Name another, Local Bake Shop, anything with booze in it. Both vendors make a wide range of items and keep their cupcake inventory low. Large numbers of cupcakes in multiple varieties sitting around waiting to be bought has never boded well.

That being said, let me share with you what has been wrong of 99% of the cupcakes I ever tried. Let us refer to the below listed scenarios as the cupcake conundrum. One of two things is typically wrong, often both of these two things are wrong.

Problem 1: The cake part is good, flavorful, moist, dense but the icing sucks.

Problem 2: The icing is good, maybe even great, but the cake part sucks, it dry, airy, an afterthought merely included as a holding area for icing.

Other variants of the cupcake conundrum.

Combine 1 and 2 above, both suck

Have either 1 or 2 above and charge $3.00 or more for one cupcake that is too small.

The cupcake won’t fit into my mouth or a more normal and appropriate person can not take a single bite of the cupcake without it falling apart, using a fork, or some other logistical nightmare. A cupcake was designed to be eaten by hand without the need for a place setting or a handful of napkins. It should be a portable treat. Most often this is because the icing to cake ratio was 10:2 – with 4 to 6 inches of icing rising up from the cake. Sure this looks good, but it is impractical to eat. As a rule, I would say a good cupcake would be the size of a clenched fist. Unfortunately most of the cupcakes I have tried made me clinch my fists afterwards. The high-end cupcakes left me feeling overcharged or underwhelmed. To sum things up and to steal the lyrics from the Monks and their 1979 hit, “Nice Legs, Shame About The Face.”

Is it just me that is down on the cupcake? No. The Age of the cupcake is over. Locally, this is shown in the closing of Bakery Gingham, the only business that really showcased the cupcake fad in Columbus. I liked the early days of the business when in occupied a small space in Brown Bag Deli. When in moved to a larger spot in German Village something was lost in translation. I think that some of the magic of cupcakes is lost when they go from micro production to retail production. When a second sales location started in the Short North, I knew the business was destined to end, too much, too fast and too spread out.

Before you wonder if it was just a case of Columbus, or Arch City as some call it now, not being ready to play with the big boys of Food Fads New York City, San Francisco and Boston, think again. Multiple writers and publications have announced and eulogized the death of the cupcake fad starting in 2009.

So is this just me piling on to an already beaten path of cupcake slam dunking? No! I am merely preparing you for an upcoming series about the rise of a new trend, not a fad, a trend. Donuts, are the new black and they are going to hit the capital city with a vengeance in 2013. Stay tuned for more details and stories soon.

Posted in culinary knowledge | Tagged: | 4 Comments »