CMH Gourmand – Eating in Columbus & Ohio

Powers greater than myself may have led me to Mallory’s Rib Shack. First I received an e-mail asking me about Mallory’s Rib Shack and I had to report I did not know anything about it. Then a few weeks later, while out walking on my street, I ran into a person I have not seen in a couple of years and one of the first things she asked was “have you been to Mallory’s Rib Shack?” She has not been but it seemed to her that Mallory’s was the type of place I would frequent. That piqued my interest. A few weeks after I took a heap of left over building materials to the Restore (if you have never been drop in to check one out). Just a few blocks away (I drove right past it on the way to the Restore) was Mallory’s. I knew that if Mallory’s was open I was going.

Mallory’s is located near the intersection of Westerville Road and Innis Ave in a part of town that has seen better days. The building was once a Diary Queen. It has a drive through window, a handful of outside tables and a window to order through. Also on the plus list, a hand painted mural of a Rib Shack. While some of this might scare people away, these elements could only serve to lure me in. Since the closing and destruction of Woody and Jo’s I have been looking for a BBQ dive to meet my BBQ needs.

On my first visit I took a cautious approach and just ordered a couple of wings and one of each side. Based on my many questions, perhaps my innate charm and the novelty of a fella from outside of the neighborhood dropping in, the owner gave me a couple of complimentary rib tips as well. Let’s begin with the sides. I tried Collard Greens with smoked turkey, potato salad, mac & cheese, cole slaw baked beans and fries. All of the sides were above average with the exception of the fries which looked and tasted to be out of a bag. The other sides were all clearly homemade. Of the lot, there are three that are well worth heading back for (which I did) the collards, potato salad and Mac and Cheese. The collard greens were some of the best I have tried. I have not had them with bits of turkey before so the novelty of that alone, makes them worth trying. The greens themselves were larger/longer/less finely cut than the typical and less cooked down. There was also a hidden kick of heat in them. The mac of cheese was the perfect balance of a blend of cheeses and cheesey consistency. Most mac and cheese in town (in my experience) is either too runny or too bland, not Mallorys Mac, in my book it runs best in show for local BBQ joints. Last, and in my experience, best was the potato salad. I rarely find a potato salad I want to have again but Mallory’s has quickly become my favorite. It is clearly “down home potato salad mixing thoroughly cooked potatoes with bits of egg, mustard, pickles and maybe a dash of mayo. Mrs. Gourmand who is a potato salad purist really liked the small amount I let her sample.

I am not a huge chicken wing fan but I did like the wings especially the breading. On my second trip back I intended to get a slab of Turkey ribs but they were out (note that many not have any ready if you order mid-week). I did get a 1/2 slab of pork ribs and my consolation prize MeMe’s Special. The special is a great intro to what the shack has to offer. The special includes two wings, 2 pork ribs, 2 rib tips and your choice of a side dish for $13.50. The pork ribs I have sampled so far have been very meaty as were the meat tips. I’m still trying to sort out my feelings about the BBQ sauce at Mallory’s. As a certified Kansas City BBQ Society BBQ judge and culinary traveler I have sampled countless styles of BBQ sauces: Kansas City, St. Louis, Memphis, Texas. North Carolina (3 to 4 regional styles), South Carolina, mustard and more. This sauce defies categorization. It is moderate in consistency and does have a glue like cling to the bones, it has a trace of sweetness and a very light hint of brown sugar. It reminds me of a blend of a typical asian BBQ sauce and a sauce I have most often found in Cleveland on Polish Boy sandwiches.

Mallory’s does a great job putting orders together. The meat area of the bottom of the styrofoam carry out container has a sheet of aluminum foil to hold the sauce and retain the heat. On top there is a sheet of wax paper to protect the sides. On top of the wax paper is a plastic bag with two slices of white bread inside – perfect boxing and presentation.

Mallory’s has been open about three years. The origin of the recipes come from father, Ralph Mallory, who came to Ohio from Luvern, Alabama. The tag line for the shack is “best soul food in Columbus”. I’ll have to visit a few more places before I can endorse that fully but based on my trips to date, the shack is a strong contender.

Mallory’s Rib Shack
3386 Westerville Road
Columbus, OH 43224
614.269.8981
Facebook:MallorysRibShack
Open:
Wednesday & Thursday 11 am to 7 pm
Friday & Saturday 11 am to 11 pm
Sunday Noon to 4 pm