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Another Elite Eating Hack: Rockmill Tavern Beet Bahn Mi

Posted by CMH Gourmand on September 25, 2019

I did not expect another elite eating hack in 2019. Nor did I expect said hack to present itself at Rockmill Tavern but when serendipity strikes, it should not be dismissed. I would like to say I could take credit for this culinary advancement but, like the other elite hack, this higher plane of consumption was created by another. I can say, I was present for the inspiration and I had the second ever sandwich created with this configuration.

Rockmill Tavern does a fine job with meaty dishes and they have always offered vegetables that your momma would not need to bribe you to eat but over the last year, the kitchen has been very focused on creating destination level dishes which showcase vegetables. Hence, the a new lunch menu addition, the Beet Bahn Mi.

You may be familiar with the famous Vietnamese Bahn Mi Sandwich – the best version I have encountered in Central Ohio is at Mi Li Cafe. Rockmill Tavern took that inspiration and put their own spin on it for their weekday lunch menu. They ditched the meat and replaced it with braised golden beets then add Vietnamese pickles and garlic miso aioli layered between two halves of a wonderful Maitja Breads Ciabatta Hoagie Roll. No one needs to beat me to get me to eat this Beet Mi, it is an excellent sandwich as presented. However, it just so happens that Rockmill Tavern makes an exceptional pork belly and if the place is not too crowded and you ask nicely they will add pork belly to this sandwich. The end result is AMAZING. Now you have another Elite Eating Hack for Rockmill Tavern. Thank you Chris for this gift to humanity. Thank you to Rockmill Tavern for allowing us to eat this.

My other inside tip – always order the pasta special, you will never be disappointed but do make sure you order bread to go with it.

Where to go:
Rockmill Tavern
503 South Front Street
Brewery District, Lunch Time

Posted in culinary knowledge, sandwiches | Tagged: , | 1 Comment »

Elite Eating Hack: Rockmill Tavern Spicy Chicken Sandwich

Posted by CMH Gourmand on August 18, 2019

The absolute best sandwich in Columbus, among many worthy candidates, is the Spicy Chicken Sandwich at Rockmill Tavern in the Brewery District. Saying the best of anything food related in this city is a bit daring, in that often a flood of counter arguments and in some cases trolling will ensue. At least I am not declaring the best pizza in Columbus, such audacity would likely get me lynched.

Rockmill Tavern is no stranger to “best of”. It was voted best new restaurant when it opened in the fall of 2016 and has maintained top ten status since. In what may be the most contested best of category in the city, BEST BURGER, Rockmill has generally landed in the number one or two spot along with Preston’s. (I love Preston’s so if I was ever forced to choose between the two burgers I would just eat both and call it a draw).

The Spicy Chicken sandwich is a beautiful work of culinary art. Fried chicken style breading encases a gigantic long slice of chicken bread that extends past the bun at least two to three inches on each pole of the sandwich. It features a generous allotment of spicy (but not too spicy) honey butter. To complement the light heat, a thin layer of urfa mayo is slathered on and a small stack of thinly sliced bread and butter zucchini (not quite pickles but serving that role). Sandwich all of this between a brioche bun, add more butter and when available top with a delicious, buttery, red pepper and the end result is the Spicy Chicken Sandwich. Take this same basic concept and place on their amazing biscuits and you have essentially the same sandwich in biscuit format known as the Chicken Biscuit when you can get it

Let me cut to the chase to get to the hack, because it is a game changer. This hack was created by a regular customer (once or twice per week) which shared it with bar staff who in turn shared with me.

Elite Eating Hack for Rockmill Tavern Spicy Chicken Sandwich

1) Take the pepper off the top of the bun, remove the stem and place on the chicken.

2) Lift the bun and flip over to make it less messy to eat and to infuse more butter into the chicken.

3) Eat the sandwich. Consider ordering a second.

Suggested pairings: Rockmill Dubbel, Old Mill Rocky or Rockmill Witbier

Please note: The photo in this post is of the Chicken Biscuit Sandwich. It is similar, and equally good, but not exactly the same – however it does accurately show the bun to chicken ratio and basic sandwich configuration and proportions. I did not take a photo of the Spicy Chicken Sandwich because more often than not, I prefer to eat my meal instead of tweet it, I find it is much more satisfying.

Posted in culinary knowledge, Food For Thought, sandwiches | Tagged: , | Leave a Comment »

Terita’s: Serving the North End since 1959

Posted by CMH Gourmand on December 8, 2018

How is it possible, having lived on the north end most of my life and for much of that as close as 3.2 miles away….. that I did not hear about Terita’s pizza until 2018? The answer, in 2018 I decided it was important to start researching the surviving pizza parlors of the 1950’s. Terita’s is definitely a survivor.

I did some cyber research on Terita’s which meant reading a lot largely positive Yelp and other reviews. Based on this, I determined I needed to make a field research mission to check out what appeared to be a local institution. Long time customers raved about many things the small shop has to offer, the most common item mentioned was the homemade sausage on the pizza and sandwiches. The Iannarino family has run this shop in the same location since 1959. I still have a bit more research to do but I am pretty sure other than Gatto’s Pizza which has been in the same spot and same family since 1952, Rubino’s (1954) and Tommy’s (if Lane Ave. is an original location), Terita’s is the third or fourth oldest continuous pizza operation in the city. That is pretty incredible for any Cleveland Avenue business.

For my recon mission I order a sausage and pepperoni pizza, a gluten-free pizza with ham and pineapple (I was surprised this was an option) and a sausage sandwich. Upon entering Terita’s I was impressed. In spite of being open over fifty years, this place was clean. The crew working the ovens and prep space were “tight” in how they worked together and professional. My veteran eye can assess a good operation in five minutes or less and Terita’s is clearly “on it”. The inside was fairly spartan to mesh with the bunker like exterior. There was nothing fancy inside and just a few tiny tables for small groups that might want to eat in on the fly. As a first timer, I was not comfortable asking about the deeper meaning of their mascot Gus the Pizza Man, but I am sure I will learn more over time. The staff were friendly and recognized me as a new customer so said they hoped I would be back. I will.

I brought this fare home to CMH Spouse and CMH Griffin. Griffin enjoyed the gluten-free pizza so that was an endorsement since is he has tried most in the city at this point. CMH Spouse gave high praise to the sausage. This is quite an endorsement for numerous reasons. My wife comes from a very Italian family in Northeast Ohio. She still has Italian speaking cousins in the old country. Sauce, meatballs and the like are a big deal with her family so quality and especially quantity are never taken lightly. CMH Spouse has a very fine-tuned sense of smell. It is actually super human. If I have more than 2 ounces of beer, she can smell it the moment I walk through the door. If I ate at an Indian restaurant say two to eight hours before, I don’t have to tell her, she will tell me. She knew I ordered sausage the second I placed the boxes on the table. After trying the sausage on the pizza and the sandwich she proclaimed “It’s just like the sausage in ravs (ravioli) and stromboli. That means it meets both the family standard as well as her personal standard which requires a sausage not be too stinky, it can’t be over or under spiced and the anise percentage should arch low instead of high. So yes, CMH Spouse approval of sausage is a big deal.

So let us discuss the pizza. Our “normal” pizza was Columbus style which means thin crust and tavern or party cut. The sausage was tasty and while I do not know the exact source of their pepperoni, Terita’s uses what most would call “old world style” so it curls a bit at the edges and can serve as a reservoir for pizza grease. We liked this pizza. I’d place it in the top twenty for the city, further research may increase that ranking.

https://cmhgourmand.com/?attachment_id=11905

The sausage sandwich was a real surprise. I think the bun is from Auddino’s. It was fresh and flavorful and toasted just right. The sausage was clearly homemade and thick sliced whole patty form whereas most places use sliced sausage links. The toppings were minimal but that is because the sandwich did not need anything other than the sausage although cheese was a good addition. The one half sandwich that survived the first eating was still exceptionally good the next day.

Teritas Sausage Sandwich close up

So initial results look promising and I think Terita’s is will easily sustain another fifty years or more of service.

Terita's Pizza Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Posted in pizza, sandwiches | Tagged: , | 1 Comment »

Kolache Republic (German Village / Brewery District)

Posted by CMH Gourmand on April 30, 2018

A bit of back story before I get to the meat of the matter. I am biased about Kolache Republic. I will not even pretend to have the pretense of objectivity. I met Dusty Kotchou, Rick Jardiolin & Doug Sauer in the first week of my tour of duty at the Food Fort. At the time, they were figuring out how to use a food cart to market two things still foreign to Columbus, mobile food and Kolaches. They gave up on the mobile aspect but they went whole hog into the Kolache aspect as one of my first clients to open a brick and mortar location. I lost track of them for a short time as I worked with the likes of Pitabilities, OH! Chips, Dos Hermanos, Ajumama and more but I did stalk them on social media. I was recently invited to get reaquainted with them and Kolaches so get ready for an education.

First, you need to figure out what a Kolache is. And that is not always a straightforward matter. Let’s begin with pronunciation: pronounced ko-LAH-chee. The origins date back hundreds of years to Central Europe and Czechoslovakia. They made their way to north america and settled with central Texas with Czech immigrants. Over time they transformed from a snack or treat to a meal and the fillings changed from simple cheeses and fruits to all manner of things such as savory meats in Sloppy Joe format. They have been the rage in Texas for decades and have slowing spread to a few select places via migrant Texans and super fans.

While Columbus is a long way from Texas, our fair city shares a lot of characteristics with Austin Texas so Dusty, Rick and Doug saw an opportunity to make Kolaches a thing in the capital city. Their location on South High Street (Brewery District/German Village) churns out Kolaches for breakfast, lunch and catered orders.

Here is a handy graphic I borrowed from them to walk you through how it all works.

And pictured below is a typical menu of daily offerings.

As you can see Kolache Republic has diners covered for sweet and savory – breakfast, lunch and even dinner to go. The daily specials are areas where they really excel in creativity. The in-house chef is allowed to push across the traditional boundaries of fillings and toppings. I hope you will block out some time to explore what they have to offer.

Kolache Republic Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Posted in desserts, sandwiches | Tagged: | 2 Comments »

Yogis Hoagies – The Original (Morse Road)

Posted by CMH Gourmand on February 10, 2018

Yogi’s Hoagies

Let us begin with a study of sandwiches and sandwich culture. Sandwiches are ubiquitous. However in Central Ohio we don’t display the same love of John Montagu’s creation as Philadelphia, most of the northeast coast, any place In Australia I have roamed or for that matter much of the English-speaking world. These locales celebrate sandwiches by placing a mom and pop sandwich shop on nearly every corner slinging out infinite combinations of breads, cheeses, meats and vegetables. In these hallowed sandwich spots, purveyors further define their wares with terms like Submarine, Torpedo, Grinder, Hero and Hoagie. A Hoagie in particular, can trace origins to Philadelphia,, specifically to the residents of the Hog Island area. In Columbus, we never seemed to connect with a sandwich sub-culture unless you count chains like Jersey Mikes and Jimmy Johns. We do have an a few exceptions to our oddly obstructive approach to getting sandwiched.

These are two Yogi’s Hoagies in Central Ohio. One is in Westerville. The second is on Morse Road, in the Woodward Park neighborhood. Doing some rough calculating, I determined that I have driven by this location a minimum of 500 instances in my lifetime, more realistically, probably well over 1000. I never dined there once, although I’ve been to the Vietnamese place next door at least thrice.

While doing some research on Westerville for a project, I came across both listings for Yogi’s and notices the Morse Road Yogi’s had over the top rating on all of the food based rating sites. How could I have missed this place? Looking at the menu, I spied that had the word “Original” in the company name and the notation of 1977. Again, how could I have missed this place. Then as I dug deep into the menu and observed an overwhelming array of selections I determined I was not going to miss this place again.

Finding myself determined to right my error in eating, I felt an obligation to Yogi’s to really give it a detailed assessment in case my first selection was not the business at it’s best. For any situation involving my level a research which means eating the amount of food suitable for five hungry adults I try to take at least one person with me to split sandwiches. My reluctant assistant, or the Boo Boo Bear to my Yogi on this task (to fill up my Pic-a-nic Baskeet) was the notorious Grumpy Old Man.

(Note, while checking if this is a correct spelling of Boo Boo I came across this description on said bear: “Boo-Boo is Yogi Bear’s constant companion, and often acts as his conscience. He tries (usually unsuccessfully) to keep Yogi from doing things he should not do, and also to keep Yogi from getting into trouble..”. The Grumpy Old Man may not be my constant companion and rarely keeps me out of trouble but he does try to restrain by consumption).

On our first recon mission to Yogi’s our selections were the Franken-Hoagie, the Super Italian Hoagie, Chicken Noodle soup and a Chicken Salad and Cheese Bagel Sandwich allowing a diversity of items to be properly evaluated.

The chicken noodle soup was house made. It was just OK. I think it needs a stronger broth base and would have benefited from several more hours in a crock pot. These limitations combined with a smaller serving for $2.99 took this off my list of items to try again.

The chicken salad in the bagel sandwich was really good. It had good chicken flavor and a nice balance of mayonnaise and seasonings without being too wet or too dry. I’d try it again but next time in a hoagie format. The bagel was fairly generic and bland. It would have benefited from toasting to add a bit of flavor and to create a stronger barrier to any soaking from the chicken salad.

The Super Italian Hoagie features salami, ham, cheese with lettuce, tomato, onion, banana peppers, olive oil and oregano. What adds the Super to the name is extra meat and cheese. This was a good sub and very filling in the 8-inch version. I think the regular (non-super) Italian version would not have had enough mass for me.

The menu item which most intrigued me was the Franken-Hoagie described as “a Monster Hoagie, filled with Salami, Ham, Turkey, Roast Beef & Provolone with Tomatoes, Banana Peppers, Onions, Olive Oil, and Oregano! Use At Least Two Hands!” This was my favorite of what I sampled on the first scouting mission and I would gladly return for this sandwich even though I was able to eat it with just one hand.

After the eating was over, I had an opportunity to sit back and observe my surroundings without being distracted by lunch meats. The set up of Yogi’s is a time warp to the late 1970’s when the establishment opened. The knick knacks and bric-a-brac on the walls are a hodgepodge of pop culture nostalgia of the 1950’s and 1960s. Any independent establishment in 1970’s Columbus I can recall (vaguely) showcased the same type of decor. There is a mix of beer cans, John Wayne photos, toys and a wooden paddle noted to be from Mister J. Allen, Room 304 at North High School. In the background music played from an old juke box with selections such as Elvis Presley, The Chi Lites and Albert Hammond.

A significant bonus point is awarded to Yogi’s for chip diversity. There is a rack of potato chips to select from as sides for many menu items and some daily specials. These are from harder to find Ohio potato chip makers Jones and Grippos.

I’ll dish out some historical notes on the business. It opened April 1st 1977. The current owner was the manager there for eighteen years before taking over as owner. The website notes that this is the Original Yogi’s Hoagies so the location in Westerville, which has similar signage, must be a remnant from empire building in the past.

On subsequent trips other I tried a few other items. I was intrigued by the pizza options offered. One is a French bread pizza which brought back memories of the 1980’s. I also spied Roman Pizza. There are several different definitions and interpretations of what this means in the world of pizza production. (I would defer to this definition as definitive). In the case of Yogi’s I’m not sure of the pedigree of their pizza. It reminds me of school cafeteria pizza. The crust, sauce and cheese were seemingly disconnected – all are present but they do not seem to intersect or co-mingle with each other, it was easy to remove the entire cheese layer from each slice with no effort.

Roman Pizza

Pizza at Yogis

I also tried the Garlic Steak (patty) Hoagie. The Garlic was strong, very strongly infused in the bread. If you feel compelled to get this selection, request cheese, maybe a lot of cheese.

I tried the meatball sub. It was above average, for this selection, I would also suggest requesting it with extra cheese and perhaps asking them to cook it longer.

All in all this is a good family owned business worth visiting. My survey and assessment indicates commonalities in each visit. The bread is always fresh. I’m not sure where they source their bread from but it is not Auddinos. The standard sandwich sizes are 8 inches or 16 inches so servings are substantial. The service is friendly and the prices are fairly fair for the quality and quantity received. The only item I would rush back for would be the Franken-Hoagie based on my visits to date but there is a lot more on the menu I have not tried. If you find a great item not covered in this review let me know.

Yogi's Hoagies & Dairy Bar Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Vick’s Gourmet Pizza, Reynoldsburg

Posted by CMH Gourmand on December 21, 2017

Vick’s Gourmet Pizza has a history going back by name to 1961. It also has a pre history with the founders working at CY’s Pizza and 3C Pizza in 1958.

Doug Vickers’ is the current owner of Vicks. His parents, Hollis and Louise, opened the original Vick’s. Doug and his wife Charlotte took it over 36 years ago. Vicks moved to the current location in 2017, just two store front down from the original. Looking at old reviews, the new location is a BIG upgrade in space and atmosphere from the original. The new space is in the former location of Connell Hardware which started as a family business in 1872. The building has a lot of history to it with Vick’s incorporating the best elements of the space create a comfortable and inviting atmosphere. There is ample seating as well as a fully stocked bar seating area.

A local institution like Vick’s could get away with cutting a few corners but they don’t. Almost everything is made in house except the desserts. The dough is made fresh and hand tossed. The sauces are slow cooked. There is no sign of skimping on high quality ingredients.

I have sampled two pizzas. The extreme pepperoni which pairs dense layers of spicy and mild pepperoni. I also tried the Greek Pizza which tossed these ingredients together: Artichoke hearts, Black Olives, Sun-dried
Tomatoes wither Feta and Asiago cheeses. The pizza is a few millimeters thicker than the typical Columbus style pizza and the crust edge has a satisfying crunch that is neither to hard or crumbling. I discovered the kitchen uses a very high gluten flour which adds a bit to the density and flavor of the pizza dough.

I was even more impressed with the subs. The meatball sub was one of the best I have sampled. There was plenty of sauce and meatballs on the sandwich. The cheese was thick and dense with just a trace of char on the edges. The sauce was flavorful, well-seasoned and tasted slow cooked. The bun was sturdy and held up to the weight of the meatballs. Doing some deep research, I discovered the sub buns are shipped in from a highly respected bakery in Pittsburgh. The meatballs contain applesauce for moistness and the sauce is cooked with the sausage.

As I was walking out after my first visit, I commended Mr. Vickers on a very good meatball sub. He thanks me and then strongly suggested I try the Italian sub next time because the “capicola is out of this world”. When I tried the Italian sub on my next visit, I found it was perfectly cooked with a nice meat to cheese ratio but not over seasoned or dressed. The bottom bun had a trace of mayo thinly spread along the length to keep the bun from disintegrating from the grease.

I don’t have cause to visit Reynoldsburg in my day to day doings, but Vick’s is well worth the trip if you want subs and grub with a gourmet approach to quality ingredients.

Vick's Gourmet Pizza Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Pittsburgh: Sammich City (Sandwich Week)

Posted by CMH Gourmand on August 12, 2017

Many cities have an iconic food. Philadelphia has cheese steaks, New York is slow big it claims pizza, hot dogs and Reubens. Miami has Cuban Sandwiches and so on. An iconic sandwich may not come to most people’s minds when Pittsburgh rolls off the tongue but for me I think of the city with countless Sammichs to serve. There are a handful of cities, that when you say the name instant imagery comes to mind. One of this is Pittsburg: Steel, Carnegie, Heinz, Three Rivers, The Steelers, The Pirates, more Steel, etc. Today that image is, incorrectly, the rust belt. But this city of seemingly endless neighborhoods, hills and one ways streets always guarantees that you may need shift your belt a notch before you leave. There are countless sandwich shops throughout the city.

The good people of the Iron City are known for an interesting interpretation of English with Pittsburgese phrases such as Yinz, Yinzer, Sees Ya and on occasion Sammich. In the Urban Dictionary, a Sammich is defined as a term for an exceptionally good sandwich and in this arena, Pittsburg delivers da goods.

The original Primanti Brothers is looked in the Strip District. During the Depression, the diner was open to 3AM or later to serve late night workers, truckers and drinkers alike. Servicing this clientele meant having to create filling food that could be consumed quickly. So listen up Yinz, legend has it that a trucker came in concerned that his delivery of potatoes had frozen during the journey and might not be good anymore. He brought a few into the diner, so the cook fried some up to see if they were still edible. The spuds smelled great so other eaters asked for the potatoes to add to their sandwiches and a tradition was born. The archetypical Primanti Brothers Sandwich will have a grilled meat, an Italian dressing-based cole slaw (no mayo just oil and vinegar), two tomato slices and a mound of French fries between two pieces of thick Italian bread. See the photo at the beginning of this post as a visual aid.

An iconic food of Pittsburgh is chipped chip ham. Loved and sought out with a vigor that many outside the city do not understand, Chipped Chopped Ham is a thinly sliced processed ham lunch meat that is often served as is, or lightly heated with some BBQ sauce mixed in. This style was made popular by another local icon, Isaly’s a largely forgotten Ohio purveyor of dairy and meats that was famous for the lunch counters before the 1960’s. Islay’s served….chipped chop ham throughout their chain of stores. This style of lunch meat has become so synonymous with the city that many residents of Ohio, West Virginia and Western Pennsylvania often refer to this as Pittsburgh ham. You will still find sandwiches featuring chipped chop ham throughout the Pittsburgh.

Fat Heads is well-known for their craft beers but their Pittsburgh Brew Pub is exceptionally renown for their intimidating sandwiches. My favorite, that is think is most reflective of the culinary loves of the city is the Southside Slopes Headwich. This monolithic sandwich consists of Kielbasa, Pierogies, American cheese, Grilled onions, Horsey sauce and two big, thick toothpicks with olives that vainly attempt to hold this together. It is served with fresh, homemade potato chips served with a wing sauce. The menu suggested washing ti down Wayne style with an Iron City Beer. Today, that may have changed to Fat Head Hop JuJu. (CMH Gourmand Note: I was surprised to see my old review of Fat Heads is still on -> Roadfood.com)

Last and not least, because there are many, many more sammiches in the Iron City, let us discuss the Devonshire Sandwich. This was created by Frank Blaidi in 1934 (or 1935 sources vary) when he cooked at the Stratford Club (one block away from Devonshire Street). The components of this open-faced sandwich are: toasted bread, bacon, tomatoes and cheese sauce.

I sampled modern-day versions at Dunnings Grill and Union Grill. My notes on Dunnings have disappeared. My notes on Union Grill have not. My memories of that sandwich have note disappeared either. I dragged a friend from Columbus for a day trip to Pittsburgh to eat sandwiches & hot dogs and this was the last stop of a very high calorie consumption day. The sandwich was so good, we did not have a problem pounding it down. What me here was the option yo split the sandwich in half for an extra two bucks. When it was served, we thought that made a mistake and gave both of us full sandwiches, we were the ones mistaken. It was the best and largest 1/2 sandwich of my lifetime. The sandwich used toast points as the base, and combined two generous strips of bacon, a whole Tomato slice, a lot of cheese sauce (some had carmelized and gotten crunchy), parsley flakes and a substantial dusting of Parmesan cheese. Great sandwich, great service and a great place.

The Devonshire and the Hot Brown are two famous open-faced sandwiches but how do they differ? Not by much, below I have the typical recipe ingredients of each for you to compare. They only way to really sort this out would be to make each several times.

Devonshire vs. Hot Brown

Devonshire

Cream Sauce:
• 3/4 stick butter, melted
• 1 cup flour
• 1/4 pound Cheddar cheese, grated
• 1 pint chicken broth
• 1 pint hot milk
• 1 teaspoon salt

For each sandwich:
• 1 slice good toast, crusts trimmed off
• 3 slices crisp bacon
• 5 thin slices cooked turkey breast
• Cream Sauce, recipe above
• Melted butter
• Parmesan cheese and paprika

Hot Brown

4 oz. Butter
Flour to make a Roux (about 6 tablespoons)
3 – 3 1⁄2 cups Milk
1 Beaten Egg
6 tablespoons Grated Parmesan Cheese
1 oz. Whipped Cream (optional)
Salt and Pepper to Taste

Slices of Roast Turkey
8-12 Slices of Toast (may be trimmed)
Extra Parmesan for Topping
8-12 Strips of Fried Bacon

Posted in sandwiches | Tagged: , , | 1 Comment »

Beef on Weck – Western New York (Sandwich Week)

Posted by CMH Gourmand on August 11, 2017

Beef on Weck is a popular sandwich in western New York including Buffalo and Rochester where Weck is considered an institution. The only major foray out of the state was during the origins of Buffalo Wild Wings which was initially called BW-3 when it started in Columbus (Ohio). The three W’s were wild wings & weck. Since most people did not know what Weck was and because it is a labor intensive sandwich to make, well… the third W quickly disappeared from the line up.

A bit of background before we go into the meat of this matteer. Weck is occasionally known as wick. It consists of thinly sliced roast beef on a kummelweck roll. The top of the bun is soaked in the au from the roast beef and sprinkled with coarse kosher slat and caraway seeds. A hearty helping of horseradish os par for the course as well.

The kummelweck roll (sometimes spelled “kimmelweck” or “kümmelweck”) gets it’s name from Kümmel a German word for caraway and weck or wecken which is a “roll” common in south-western Germany. The weck of New York is a bot different that what you would find in Germany or Austria, it tends to be softer. The origins of this sandwich are as hazy of the au ju that makes it an exceptional sandwich. We know it started in Buffalo. It may have been invented by a German baker named William Wahr. Legend has it, which is easy to believe, that a local bar owner felt the salty sandwich would encourage more bar business. Having consumed a few of these sandwiches myself, I can say, they pair exceptionally well with a cold lager.

The best Beef on Weck I ever had was not at a restaurant by made by my friend Cliff Sawicki. A native of the Buffalo area, he made enough beef on wecks to feed 20 people for move in day at my first house back in 2002. I’m certain I ate enough to account for 10 of 20 person servings in the 3 hours it took to complete the move. As an expert on the region and the sandwich, I asked Cliff to chime on on his favorite haunts and he did indeed deliver as you can read below.

Brunner’s Tavern
3989 Main Street
Amherst, NY
(716) 836-9718

This has been an Amherst tradition for a couple generations now. They serve a decent fish fry on Fridays and the kitchen is open for lunch and early dinner during the week. My favorite time to go is Saturday afternoon, the kitchen is closed, but the grill behind the bar is open. There are two things to get: the Steak Sandwich or the Roast Beef on Weck. Order the Steak Sandwich and the barkeep will throw a big chuck of beef on the grill, cook it to your liking, and then throw on some cheese, peppers and onions. For good measure, the sandwich is cut in half and served with wedge ridged potato chips and a pickle. MMM! Order the Roast Beef on Weck and watch the barkeep carve off slices from a fresh slab brought in just before opening. For good measure, some juice is ladled on the roll, the sandwich is cut in half, served with wedge ridged potato chips, pickle, and a jar of real horseradish on the side. If you want the Roast Beef get there early, they sometimes run out as soon as 12:30PM (although I understand they have been bringing in a second slab recently). Brunner’s is next to Ziggy’s.

Jolly Jug
797 Niagara Falls Blvd.
Buffalo, NY
(716) 836-9552

I would give directions, but if you can read this, you are not drunk enough to believe the time warp, and thus won’t want to go. This is really a bar that also happens to serve a decent Roast Beef on Weck and Chili until 4:00AM. This was probably a hopping little neighborhood bar forty years ago, until the great super glue incident happened. Now, six or seven sixty-year old men have their elbows permanently affixed to the bar. All of these men are drinking Genesee Cream Ale. I have never heard of any performer listed in the juke box.

I usually drag a couple unknowing friends down to the Jug around 3:30AM, go to the bar, order six Old Viennas, three Beefs, and three bowls of Chili. I then get some quarters, play the juke box and rack up a pool game. The barkeep is traditionally friendly, I expect because he actually gets to speak to someone who is alive. Everybody seems to enjoy the experience as it unfolds, but nobody has ever gone back with me. Oh, well, (they can go pound on the windows at Ziggy’s).

My guess is theremay only be 1000 people that know about this place, 500 people that have been inside, 250 people that would admit they have been inside, and 100
people who have thought to eat there….I only knew because an alcoholic
took me there.

In no particular order…

Schwabl’s – Really good, I’ve only had the Beef on weck…I’d like to try
some of the other stuff on the menu…old restaurant…old school. (CMH Gourmand Note; Schwabl’s is often noted to have the quintessential Beef on Weck).

Bar Bill – The rave in the very small village of East Aurora…it’s a 30-40
minute drive from the mainland, a very good sandwich, but if you need a fix
there are equally good sandwiches with a shorter drive…the only reason I
had ever been there was because my grandparents lived out there.

Swiston’s – Been there a few times…. consistency isn’t always there. Their best efforts top the charts, but I’ve had an occasional average sandwichthere…one recent complaint someone told me about was too much fat on thesandwich…I’m torn about that comment.

Anderson’s – Original location on Sheridan Drive has expanded into I believe locations in WNY. Still a decent quality sandwich, but would only be myfirst choice if I was going to top it off with some of Anderson’s frozen
custard.

Anacone Inn – I haven’t been here in some 15 years, the neighborhood hasgone way downhill, I’d like to give this one a shot again, but I would want to bring a posse along. BTW, they had a really good sandwich.

Charlie the Butcher – Strangely, this is probably one of the most talked about Beef on Weckers, but I hadn’t tried it until this past summer…I wasnot impressed…Beef was a bit dry and not piled on very high….will probably try one more time just to confirm an unsupervised rookie didn’t make my sandwich.

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The Breaded Pork Tenderloin Sandwich of Indiana & Iowa (Sandwich Week)

Posted by CMH Gourmand on August 9, 2017

BPT Sandwich

The Breaded Pork Tenderloin is big in Indiana and Iowa – big as in size and big as in popular. These sandwiches can sometimes be found in other parts of the Midwest, especially in Illinois, which is sandwiched between these two pork powerhouses, but there is no place that displays the level of devotion to this sandwich greater than Indiana and Iowa. It has been estimated that breaded pork tenderloin sandwiches are served in at least fifty percent of Indiana restaurants. This sandwich is also listed on many menus in Iowa. In Indiana and Iowa, customers will ask for a tenderloin sandwich assuming it is breaded and that it is pork (an assumption that can lead to disappointment when traveling out of pork country). People in both states take pride in their prized sandwich and are politely dismissive of other state’s claims of pork prowess. Where is the true home of the Breaded Pork tenderloin Sandwich? It is really too close to call – this sandwich belongs to both Hawkeyes and Hoosiers.

Many experts place the birthplace of the pork tenderloin sandwich in Huntington, Indiana and credit Nicholas Freinstein as the founding father of this heartland creation. He opened a restaurant, Nick’s Kitchen in 1908 after years of peddling his sandwiches on the street. Legend has it that his brother Jake, having lost function of his hands to frostbite after an unfortunate wintertime carriage accident, used the stumps of his forearms to tenderize the pork. Today, pork tenderloin purveyors have found alternate means to tenderize the meat but it is still as good.

The basic breaded pork tenderloin sandwich generally starts a large cut of pork loin. The meat is tenderized until it is the desired thickness, usually 1/4 inch thick but sometimes up to a 1/2 inch. The breading is customarily a simple mix of water, flour, salt and pepper. Some places will add cornmeal or another special ingredient but the standard is to keep it simple. The sandwich is typically fried or deep-fried. The tenderloin is always significantly bigger than the bun which is typically a hamburger bun or sometimes a Kaiser roll. The condiments of choice are basic – usually pickles, often onions, and occasionally lettuce. In Indiana – expect mustard and/or mayonnaise while in Iowa it is most often mustard and/or ketchup. What a difference a few hundred miles can make. The sandwich is always a meal and taking some to go will have no negative effect on ones reputations with the locals.

(disclaimer: the sites below were last fact checked in 2005)

Mr. Dave’s
102 E Main St.
North Manchester, IN 46962
260-982-4769
Closed Sunday

Mr. Dave is Dave Klapp. He opened this cozy little spot in 1962 on the corner of Market and Main. The pork tenderloin sandwich has been a local favorite for decades and is frequently mentioned in newspaper articles and national magazines. The sandwich won several contests and awards including the Pork Producers Appreciation award in 1990. Dave’s son Kevin is running the restaurant now and continues to stay busy frying up tenderloins. Customers order at the counter or drive through window and after a short wait they can eat inside, at a picnic table, or on the go. The sandwich is popular outside of town with over 1000 shipped around the country each year.

Nick’s Kitchen
506 N Jefferson St.
Huntington, IN 46750
260 356 6618
Closed Sunday
Open 6 AM to 2 PM

Huntington has the Dan Quayle Museum – but on a more historical note the town is home to Nick’s Kitchen – the originator of the Breaded Pork Tenderloin sandwich. In 1969, the restaurant was purchased by the Bailey family, and is now owned by Jean Anne Bailey. Jean Anne continues to serve the sandwich as it was at the turn of the 20th century. The motto of the restaurant is on the wall – “We don’t do fast food, we just do great food fast!” Diners can hear the tenderloins frying in the kitchen whether sitting at the counter or farther away in a booth. Service is quick and efficient but not rushed – it does take a little time to make homemade food.

Nickel Plate Bar and Grill
8654 E 116th St
Fishers, IN 46038
317 841 2888

The Nickel Plate Bar and Grill is on the right side of the tracks – the side with one of the best-breaded pork tenderloin sandwiches in Indiana. The Nickel Plate is more bar than grill and is located right at the railroad crossing. In 2005, Indy Men’s Magazine picked the tenderloin at the Nickel Plate as the best out of 64 entries. The tenderloin served in this sandwich is thicker than most and has cornflakes incorporated into the batter. The sandwich is served on a corn-dusted roll and served with a side dish. Customers in a hurry can order at the bar or get the sandwich to go. Fishers, Indiana is located just outside Indianapolis outerbelt (465) off I 69 so the Nickel Plate makes a nice side trip for anyone going cross-country on Interstate 70.

Red Onion
3901 W State Street
Sheridan, IN 46069
317 758 0424

Pork Tenderloin sandwiches are often described as two-fisted sandwiches. At the Red Onion, this type of description may be an understatement. Their oversized tenderloin still hangs out from the giant, double sized hand made bun so even eating halfway through is an accomplishment. Mere mortals or people adverse to leftovers would be better off ordering the junior tenderloin which is much more manageable. The Red Onion serves up to 900 of these sandwiches each week – that is a lot of pork and a lot of carry out containers.

Darrell’s Place
4010 1st St.
Hamlin, IA 50117
712-563-3922

Darrell’s Place is an easy place to miss even though it is located in a very small town. If it were not for the sign, it would be easy mistaking this restaurant for some other type of business and just drive by. Finding Darrell’s is well worth the effort. In 2004, the Iowa Pork Producers Association proclaimed that Darrell’s Place had the best breaded pork tenderloin in the state. For the next several months, hundreds of people made the pilgrimage to Darrell’s to find out if this was true. The traffic has died down a bit but people keep making the journey to try out this sandwich and it is hard to believe anyone would be disappointed. Darrell hand cuts the pork loins himself and makes a very simple breading out of flour. The tenderloin is a bit thicker than the typical pork tenderloin sandwich and the breading is a little lighter and flakier than what is usually encountered. The sandwich at Darrell’s did earn the acclaim it received. Darrell’s is off the beaten path but it is worth the drive. For travelers with a little extra time – consider doing the scenic drive on SR 44 starting around Lake Panorama.

George the Chili King
5722 Hickman Road
Des Moines, IA
515 277 9433
515 255 9950
Closed Sunday

George Karaidos Sr. won a newspaper sponsored chili contest in the early 20th century so he was dubbed the Chili King, the name stuck. He opened this Drive-in / Diner in 1952 and not much has changed since then. Randy Karaidos is now the king of this castle, which still offers carhop service. If you want to eat inside, there is counter seating available in front of the grill. In addition to chili, this place is also well known for good pork tenderloin sandwiches. This restaurant makes a version of the pork tenderloin that takes this sandwich up a few points on the cholesterol scale. The Fat Man is a tenderloin with ham and cheese added as well as lettuce, tomato, onions, and more condiments. The tenderloins are frozen but deep-fried when ordered and cook up in less than 5 minutes. George’s is a local institution and worth a visit whenever visiting Des Moines.

Hamburg Inn #2
214 N Linn St
Iowa City, Iowa 52245
(319) 337-5512

Once upon a time, there were three Hamburg Inn’s. Now there is only one, which is Hamburg Inn #2. This restaurant is a favorite with local residents as well as Iowa State students and alumni. It has been featured in numerous newspaper and magazine articles as well as radio and television programs. Numerous celebrities including two presidents have dined in the Hamburg Inn. The Panther family has continued the Hamburg Inn tradition of serving great comfort food at a reasonable price. The gigantic menu features a good-sized breaded pork tenderloin sandwich that is best washed down with one of their renowned pie milkshakes. I tried the apple pie milkshake and it was the best I milkshake of my life.

Joensy's Restaurant by A Conaway

Joensy’s Restaurant
101 West Main St
Solon, IA 52333
319 624-2914

The folks at Joensy’s take pork pretty seriously. The large sign above the entrance (which is bigger than the sign for the restaurant itself) proudly proclaims “Home of the Biggest & Best Pork Tenderloin in Iowa”. Joensey’s has been pork tenderloin purveyor since 1983 and has generated a lot of recognition over the years. A variety of sandwiches and hearty dinners are served at Joensey’s but the breaded pork tenderloin remains the signature item for the restaurant. The tenderloin is about two to three times the size of the bun, which tries to serve as a delivery device for this oversized, two-handed, mammoth sandwich. A person could look for a bigger pork tenderloin sandwich elsewhere but I would suggest that they go to Joensy’s first so they have something to eat while driving around Iowa looking for something larger.

Smitty’s Tenderloin Shop
1401 S.W. Army Post Road
Des Moines, IA
515 287-4742
Closed Sunday and Monday

Smitty’s specialty is the breaded pork tenderloin sandwich, which is not a big surprise considering the name of the shop and that is in Iowa. Smitty’s does at least one thing a little different than other pork tenderloin hawkers – there are a variety of styles to choose from. The easy choice is whether to order a large or small sandwich. However, the tough choice is deciding among the King Tenderloin (Big), Chili-Cheese Loin, Taco Loin or Vegetable Loin (don’t panic – this is just a tenderloin with tomato, lettuce, and pickle). Smitty’s also ships tenderloins in packages of a dozen in the lower 48 states if you cannot make it to Des Moines or feel you need to try some of the other styles later.

The Breaded Pork Tenderloin sandwich seems to hold a special place in the hearts of many people from Iowa and Indiana. Some fans refer to the sandwich as a BPT (Breaded Pork Tenderloin). A few fans have taken fandom to the next level – BPT zealot. Here are two video resources to better understand this lifestyle choice.

Stalking the Wild Breaded Pork Tenderloin in Iowa

This website is a pictorial journey to some of the favorite spots for BPT in Iowa.

In Search of the Famous Hoosier Breaded Pork Tenderloin Sandwich
A documentary film by Jensen Rufe


The Other White Meat Sandwich?

The three biggest pork producers in the United States are Iowa, Indiana, and North Carolina. We know what Iowa and Indiana do with their pork but what about North Carolina? Well, the BPT pretty much unheard of in North Carolina BBQ country but there is a 2nd cousin of the BPT – the Pork Chop Sandwich.

Snappy Lunch
125 North Main Street
Mount Airy, NC 27030
336-786-4931

The quintessential Pork Chop sandwich can be found in this quintessential diner. Mount Airy was the childhood home of Andy Griffith and served as the model for Mayberry in his television series. Too bad this sandwich did not appear on TV or we might be able to find more of them elsewhere. The Snappy Lunch menu features the Famous Pork Chop Sandwich, which is a large pork cutlet, dipped in batter, pan fried and served with tomato, onion, chili, coleslaw, mayonnaise and mustard. The pork is tenderized by a special machine and the sandwich accounts for about 90% of the food sold at the restaurant.

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Blystone Farm and Butcher Shop (& Deli & Taproom), Canal Winchester

Posted by CMH Gourmand on June 30, 2017

Blystone Farms sign

“Lord, I was born a rambling man, looking for a new lunch spot as often as I can. But when it comes to eating, I hope you’ll understand, as for now, I’m largely a homebound man.” By my makeup, I need to roam and explore, discover new things, etc. Over the last six months I have been adding a lot to my to read lists, to listen to lists, to watch lists, etc. As for my to eat list, it is extensive. When I hear about or notice a good candidate I start a blog post with the name of the destination and any bits that caught my interest others mentioned or based on a quick search of the interwebs. (I have 55 more places on my blog list). Canal Winchester has been a frequent topic of conversation over the last year due to Brewdog, and more than once someone would suggest Blystone Farm and Butcher shop as worth a visit. One guys description of a deli sandwich from the Blystone peaked my interest to the extreme, he loved talking about the sandwich almost as he enjoyed consuming it.

With the breaking of weather in the spring and the breaking of myself from a lack of adventures I opted to combine work with a little pleasure in May. I assigned myself the “southern leg” of deliveries for the Columbus Ale Trail Brew books. I plotted out an all back roads route to make deliveries to Grove City Brewing, Brew Brothers, Loose Rail Brewing, Brewdog and Combustion Brewery. It was a great day to drive and conveniently Blystone was just slightly off my plotted path on my way to Loose Rail. (As a side, note, I did find a cool Taco Truck called Taco Time by Don Carlos on SR 317 in a VFW parking lot about one mile from Brew Brothers, that will be a future post here or on Taco Trucks Columbus).

Blystone Farm deli

I did not have any expectations of Blystone and I could not find much online (other than a very good post by Columbus Culinary Connection) so I just knew it was a farm based butcher shop with a deli. As soon as I saw the place in the distance, I knew I would like it. The moment I walked through the door it was love at first whiff. Blystone offers a full service butcher shop offering a wide range and variety of cuts of mea, many originating on the farm. The shop is also stocked with a deep selection of craft beers, wines, Ohio and other cheese and local products such as Sophie’s Pieorgi. As I was walking around the ship enthralled by my choices one of the butchers asked if I needed anything so I replied, “a lunch recommendation.” He walked through what on the menu originated in the shop and suggested I try the ham and cheese, especially since he knew the ham had been freshly sliced an hour ago. He also said the wings may meet my fancy as well. He then pointed me to the new taproom / restaurant.

Blystone Beer Menu

I loved the rustic look of the attached dining area. Positioning myself at the bar, I spied the beer list on the wall and was impressed with the choices in a largely Ohio based tap selection. I asked a few questions before placing my order. The soup of the day was a Mediterranean soup with a mix of unusual ingredients so I ordered that as well as a Ham & Cheese Sandwich, chicken wings and a beer flight. The woman behind the bar was immediately impressed by my ambitions. In this case, even for me, I may have been pushing my own envelope which exceeds the good sense and tolerances of most mere mortals.

I cannot recall much about the soup other than it was flavorful and I liked it. I think that is because anything would have been forgotten in comparison to my two lunch orders. The Ham (house made) and Cheese (Ohio) sandwich was served on fresh thick Texas Toast style bread topped with homemade BBQ sauce and served with a pile of outstanding steak fries. The flavor of the ham stood out among an outstanding supporting cast of. The steak fries were perfectly executed, sturdy, firm, well salted and filling.

wings and sandwich

As for the wings, these are superior on all indicators. I’m not a big fan of wings in general. However, in the rare instance I find them to be the exception to the greasy, mediocre base line, I get a bit excited. The Blystone wings are clearly not dumped out of a frozen bag. These wings were big, filled with flavor and did not need anything to dip, bathe or a sauce to swim in. I’ll place these in the top three in Central Ohio with O’Reilly’s and Smokehouse being a strong tie and weak third place respectively.

My approach to lunch attracted a bit of attention. Everyone in eyeshot asked about the wings. A woman I think may have been one of the owners was very interested in my opinions of the meal and I think my server wanted to adopt me although I am older than her.

This spot warrants further research but my first impression is highly favorable and flavorful.

Blystone Farm

Blystone Farm
8677 Oregon Rd, Canal Winchester
(614) 833-1211
(3 miles from Brewdog, 4 miles from Loose Rail)

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