CMH Gourmand – Eating in Columbus & Ohio

Dining, Donuts, Dives and Diatribes

  • Recent Comments

    Marines Michalowski's avatarMarines Michalowski on Spain Restaurant
    Steve's avatarSteve on Columbus Pizza History: A Slic…
    Sharyn Smith Skelton's avatarSharyn Smith Skelton on Columbus Pizza History: A Slic…
    Linda shaw's avatarLinda shaw on Ding Ho, Wor Sue Gai: Columbus…
    BoomerGenX's avatarBoomerGenX on SKY Gourmand: The Cooker is Ba…
    Betty's avatarBetty on R&M Bakery – Newark…
    scottalberts's avatarscottalberts on Columbus Pizza History: A Slic…
  • Categories

  • Top Posts

  • Archives: August 2006 to Now

Archive for the ‘Clintonville’ Category

Smokeout BBQ: Doing Business in Clintonville

Posted by CMH Gourmand on March 24, 2013

IMG_1298

I first noticed the Smoke Out BBQ trailer set up for the BBQ trade one Saturday afternoon in the dead of winter. It was set up at Robbie’s Hobbies in Clintonville conveniently near my abode. Inconveniently, I had just eaten at Ray Ray’s. This niche spot in the Beechwood subsection of Clintonville hosted the mighty Per Zoot Food Truck for a few days last spring. Across the street, Beechwold Hardware hosted Tatoheads in the early days of the Tatonation’s birth. This is not the easiest part of town to start the mobile trade. The parking lots are small, the traffic is dense and there are blue hairs just around every corner getting ready to pull out right in front of you at 1 mph. However, the neighborhood loves to support new local businesses and there is a certain mobile karma in the area.

So back to my first encounter. I was full so I just bought the smallest sandwich possible and samples of each uniquely names sauce (Fargo, Athens and Amarillo). My diagnosis. Good sauce. Good que. I hoped that I might see them again. More Saturdays than not I saw them plying their trade at the corner and hoped they might stick it out. As it turns out, they will be so here is my exclusive world premiere interview with John Becker – the man with the handlebar mustache.

Smoke Out BBQ and Catering
4578 N. High Street
Beechwold / Clintonville
614.256.7900
Facebook
http://www.smokeoutbbq.com
Fridays and Saturdays 11 am to when they run out, most recently, about 2 pm

Who else works on Smoke Out with you?
A: I have a business partner, Eric Grant, and our wives may be on
location from time to time. Our sons will be learning the art in the
years coming.

When did you first get interested in BBQ.

A:I spent summer and winter breaks of college working for a landscape
company. We would cut mature apple trees from a local orchard, split
the wood, and sell it to local BBQ joints. Back at OU in Athens,
through trial and error, I learned to take a fatty cut of meat, wood
smoke, and patience and turn a cheap cut of meat into something better
than steak.

What is your BBQ style – Texas, Carolina, etc., if any?
A: I have eaten BBQ extensively in the Carolinas, Texas, Memphis, and
St. Louis. I enjoy good BBQ anywhere. The food we offer is the food we
like to eat with the meats being smoked by local cherry wood. Smoke
Out BBQ is pork oriented, but we also offer pulled chicken and brisket
on a rotating basis. The menu will expand once spring hits.

What inspired the trailer?

A:Eric and I both have experience in construction. We bought the
trailer shell and turned it into a fully functional kitchen ourselves.

You make many of your own sauces, any stories about that; family recipes, win any competitions, etc.
A: As much as possible, our offerings are homemade: sauces, rub, slaw, Mac N Cheese, etc. I’ll take a thumbs up or a smile from a customer who likes our food over an official award any day.

What are the next steps for Smoke Out? Do you hope to open a restaurant, do more catering?
A: I am just happy that I have the opportunity to share my favorite BBQ with my neighbors in Columbus.

IMG_1299

Posted in BBQ, Clintonville | Tagged: , | Leave a Comment »

The Crest Gastropub: Jumping the Shark or the Gun?

Posted by CMH Gourmand on March 11, 2013

My heart skipped a beat when I saw this ad last week.

crest 1
crest 2

I read the description first. I thought bold, progressive, cool. When I looked at the photo, I felt warm, whole and pure. Then I looked at the bottom of the ad, read the address and (in my best Clay Davis voice from the Wire) said, “Shheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeiiiiiitttttttttttttttttttt”.

Disclaimer 1:
I love Clintonville. It is my home. It lacks little but what it does lack the most is a good depth of restaurant choices. I would love to see a farm to table gastropub in my community, especially one I could bike or hop, skip and jump to. This community NEEDS and is screaming for more restaurant choices. I will do anything legal or at least morally defensible to support better choices in my community. The (Clinton)Ville wants the Crest Gastropub BAD! I support that.

Disclaimer 2
I am normally the nice guy blogger. I write about the good. I ignore and don’t write about the bad and try not to snipe. I am pretty sure the only dismissive note on a restaurant to date was Fabian’s and that was long ago.

Disclaimer 3
I want the Crest to succeed. I have read everything about the place. I drive by twice per day. I have been happy to see the progress and how the new design is shaping up. They took a true dive bar and at least on the exterior, have done a good job of transforming it to a tavern. Or might I say….Gastropub.

So reading the ad again. Here we go: Many elements of our menu are grown on our roof top garden, artfully prepared then dropped off at your table. If not from the garden, its naturally grown. That sounds great. However, there are some problems. The place is still under construction and looks to have a long way to go. My intelligence sources tell me The Crest plans to have: a great patio (new, very much bigger), a wood fired pizza oven, 60 beers on tap, a full kitchen sourcing local ingredients and they plan to make their own beer. That is ambitious. All of that also requires a lot of space, at least if you want to have a few seats for customers inside. The Crest is not exactly busting at the seams with square footage. So when I saw it was going to have a roof top garden, I was intrigued.

Channeling my best Encyclopedia Brown skills I drove to the Crest on Thursday night then stood on some pallets to check out the roof and obtain this picture.

no rooftop garden

So I noticed a couple of things. The restaurant is not open. There is no sign of a garden on the roof. When the garden is planted there will not be a whole lot of room for gardening after space is allocated for the hood system and the various things zoning requires for one to be roaming around on a roof. I have a hard time seeing how that rooftop is going to support a menu with any depth any time soon.

In the tone of “Bad Dog”. I say Bad Ad, Bad Ad, Bad, Bad, Bad Ad.

I am not sure who talked the owners into advertising a place that is not open as well as selling amenities and features it is not likely to have on opening day. That ad just seems like a poorly executed and ill-timed idea.

Some have called the shot and stated that 2013 may be the year of Gastropub. I hope it is. I hope it happens in Clintonville. In fact, if it could work anywhere, it absolutely should work exactly where it is located. The Crest is located in Bohemian “Baja Clintonville” home to the most progressive of the Clintonville Gluten-free Granola Eating Elite. If there was ever a community prepared to walk or ride their bikes to eat locally sourced, free range, grass-fed, organic goodness this is it. The area is teeming with demand from this type of food from people with a predisposition to it – highly educated, glasses wearing, NPR listening, non corporate consuming citizens with disposable income they want to keep in their zip code. The Crest just needs to show up to win. I mean any one of the several high trending elements mentioned before will get boots on the ground and elbows on the tables.

However, I opine that the cart has been placed well before the horse and instead of the philosophy of “if we build it, they will eat” I think we are seeing “if we build it up, we will see a shitload of money”. So I wish the owners well but suggest they ditch the ads which are far head of their time and spend the money saved on a different type of fertilizer for the roof top garden.

The Crest Gastropub
2855 Indianola Ave
Clintonville

More details -> here

Posted in Clintonville, culinary misadventure | 5 Comments »

Taste of Greece: Food Trailer in Clintonville

Posted by CMH Gourmand on February 20, 2013

Note: This is cross-posted in Street Eats Columbus.

trailer

Cuisine: Greek

2991 Indianola Ave (Corner of Weber and Indianola)
Clintonville
330.354.5246
Monday – Saturday: 11 am to 8 pm
Sunday: 4 pm to 8 pm

What is this? Writing about a humble, some might say, lowly street meat trailer? The answer is no, that is not how I roll. Taste of Greece offers a small menu of common Greek street food like gyros and stuffed grape leaves and that is OK. For many people their first street food experience was an anonymous food cart slinging gyros on a college campus or maybe the Ali Baba trailer at Ohio University. There is no shame in being typical and ordinary if you do it well and consistently and that is what Taste of Greece does. Located in the mobile food Mecca of Clintonville, Taste of Greece is surviving the winter and serving people in the community. Highlights include Homemade Greek vegetable soup on Mondays for $4.00 as well as homemade Tzatziki sauce salad dressing. For the record, I would ask (and this writer is not typically a pronunciation snob…especially for those that have heard me speak) that customers please ask for a Gyro (Year-Oh) not a gyro (Ja Eye RO) when ordering. If you want to know why, ask Matt from Pitabilities for the explanation.

menu

Posted in Clintonville | Tagged: | Leave a Comment »

PSA: Savor Now Serving Growlers

Posted by CMH Gourmand on February 19, 2013

I mentioned a few months ago, that Savor would soon have growler sales of select drafts. Well, they are ahead of schedule on this project. As a PSA: Public Service Announcement Pour Some Alcohol Post, I am letting you know the growlers are in and ready to fill.

savor

Posted in beer, Clintonville | Tagged: | Leave a Comment »

Studio 35: A Really Good Bar That Serves Movies

Posted by CMH Gourmand on January 23, 2013

exterior

My first memories of Studio 35 go back to my senior year of High School – in a Clintonville from long, long ago but not so far away. At that time, the theater showed two second run movies for the price of one. The first time I was there I saw Top Gun and Something Wild. The seats were beat up, you could hear a few beer bottles rolling around on the floor and nothing else comes to my mind. I do not think the place had legal beer sales but I could be wrong. Skipping over several years and several owners the business started to take a new direction in the 2000 – aught’s.

But first let’s take a trip back in the wayback machine with a bit of history which will help you appreciate the present much more. Studio 35 opened on February 17th 1938. In just a few weeks Studio 35 will observe its 75th year in operation. That is a feat for any business but a single screen theatre without a parking lot that has fought the good fight with movie megaplexes, the digital age and more, really deserves some respect. In the late 1950’s, it was a soft core porn theatre. In the 1960’s it was a place for artsy films. When current co-owner Eric Brembeck took over, he inherited a challenge. The facility – chairs, sound system, etc, had seen much better days. The place is reported to be haunted. He was working a day job and covering shifts at night and on the weekends. There were many lean years.

The key to the survival of the business was developing a loyal neighborhood following and asking customers what they wanted. Over time, Eric started to deliver with some hits and some misses along the way. Partnering with a neighboring pizza shop helped with the food. Adding beer sales, and by that I mean good beer, added momentum. The Rocky Horror Picture Show, Sunday Beer and movie pairings, opening up for free to show OSU games (might as well the city shuts down for OH – IO State Buckeyes), trying out late night horror flicks, The Dude-a-Thon, bad movie nights and hosting documentaries for no charge grabbed new customers from many walks of life and parts of town. And quite frankly – who in their right mind would support an event like Night of 1001 Tacos?

M & M's and pop corn

All of the above were enough to turn things around and make “the Studio” a viable, sustainable business but there was still more to come. Studio 35 became a bit of a hang out for a core group of people. There was a lightly used bar and a few booths that created an intimate atmosphere separate from the theatre. Customers still longed for better seating, sound and amenities. They got that and more – Studio invested major capital into the guts of the building in 2012 and transformed from an ugly (but charismatic) duckling into a very hot swan of a Studio 35.

taps

The new and improved theatre has better bathrooms, a killer bar and 40 craft beers on draft. It serves as a bar and a theatre now and continues to be a community gathering place – where you can watch a movie, drink a beer….or both. For years, people made a conscious choice to support Studio 35 because they wanted to support a local independent business. On occasion, that was not the easiest or more comfortable choice. Sitting in the bar recently and watching the hustle and bustle of people coming in, it was worth the wait. I thank the owners for transformimg something good into a place that is great and I thank everyone who supported Studio 35 for waiting patiently for what we enjoy today. If you rebuild it, they will come (as long as you serve good beer too). It works for baseball and it works for movies.

I do not want to delve into partisan politics (I am a registered Independent voter), but Republicans should stop reading here. I spent election night camped at Studio 35. The theatre was at capacity filled with people watching the results. The bar was packed as well. Granted, we were all in Clintonville – the epicenter of hippieness in Columbus so it was a strongly Democratic crowd but the camaraderie and spirit of the strangers sharing that space that night was truly memorable. People shared i-phone chargers so they could reload their phones to continue their Twitter Trash Talk and others who had not seen one another for years crossed paths that night in several mini-reunions. It was more than a bar, or theatre or business that night, it was a community. I could not imagine anything like that, happening in any other place in the city, state or maybe even the country. I rest my case.

Posted in Clintonville | Tagged: | 4 Comments »

Quick Byte: Iron Grill BBQ & Brew

Posted by CMH Gourmand on October 2, 2012

In the past, I mentioned the nachos at Pig Iron as potentially the best in they city. However, a potential problem came up. The place was sold earlier in 2012. I was wary of the outcome. BBQ places typically don’t fare well during transitions. Pits are a labor of love not something to be acquired in a business transaction. So I kept my distance, skeptical of anymore BBQ bliss coming from the new Iron Grill BBQ & Brew. I mean, they dropped pig from the name, what was I supposed to think?

However, doing a little research, I found out who bought the old watering hole down the road. Eugene Staravecka had done the same to Gahanna Grill about 8 years ago and at the time I had my fears about that too. My reservations were unfounded. Eugene fixed what needed to be taken care of – bathrooms, bar and patio and tinkered very little with the menu. He kept the character and cleaned up the rest. The Beanie Burger was still great and life moved on at Gahanna Grill without the slightest of speedbumps.

So what happened to Pig Iron? The Pig was dropped from the name. The Pink truck was moved to the back parking lot, the place has a new bar, booths, carpet and a patio upgrade. The key change is the tap selection increased to twenty from six – hence the addition of the word brew to the name. What else did Mr. Staravecka add to the bar? Rachel from Villa Nova down the street has come on board as bartender in chief bringing a crowd of regulars with her. Her back story is that she helped open Pig Iron years ago. When I was at the bar he added another great addition to my evening – a free shot.

The core menu remains the same but as penance for taking (some of) the Pig out of Pig Iron, the new owner added the best of Gahanna Grill – the burgers. This had me intrigued – could I still have my favorite nachos and yet add one of my top five burgers at the same place….but with better beer? The answer awaits below.

The verdict: The beer selection is great. The nachos, almost as good as I remember and they are still a great value at happy hour pricing. There seems to be something missing from the nacho mix that I can not place and the salsa is not quite as good as Pig Iron – but these are 95% as good as those I recall from days of yon. The Beanie Burger is good, but it lacks the extra je ne sais grease that comes from the decades of Beanie busting out burgers in the back of the original Gahanna grill.

In summary the BBQ place that had some beer is now the bar that has some BBQ and Burgers. That is an outcome I can live with.

Iron Grill BBQ & Brew
5295 North High Street
(The hinterlands between Clintonville and Riverlea)
614.885.4744
website

Iron Grill Brew & BBQ on Urbanspoon

Posted in bar, BBQ, beer, Clintonville, hamburgers | Tagged: | Leave a Comment »

Clintonville: The Stealth Mobile Food Mecca

Posted by CMH Gourmand on September 29, 2012

Sometime in 2011, a myth arose in town that Clintonville was anti-mobile food. Parts of the myth were true or at least partially so. The trails and travails of Ray Ray’s BBQ were known by most of his regular customers and eventually it propelled his move to Ace of Cups just down the street in Olde North Columbus. While owner Jaime Anderson won rave reviews for his food and brought people to Clintonville – he was constantly at wit’s end dealing with vague, inconsistent and sometimes conflicting interpretations of city codes for his business. As a general rule while he had no health or safety concerns many of his woes often appeared to be on the whim of a complaint or an officials interpretation code. Jaime read the codes, consulted lawyers and tried to get concrete answers. Finally he had enough and moved on. It was a loss for Clintonville. In his wake, Jaime did pave the way for Mya’s Fried Chicken to take his old place at the corner of High Street and Pacemont. Jaime has coached, mentored and invested a lot of time to help that business take off at his old the spot. For the record – rent is paid to set up there adding more money to the community.

A more publicized mobile stumble was Yerba Buena in the summer of 2011. After a great turnout through the summer the business was prodded to move because it was set up in a parking lot of an unoccupied building. As it turns out, it would be OK for them to be in the spot if the building was occupied. Hmm, seems to me that a business set up in the parking lot of an empty building – that the community and the property owner would be benefiting. Such was not the case in the eyes of our city code. The rules are the rules but is does not make them right for the area or the times. Yerba Buena moved to another site one mile away on Indianola in partnership with a local business. An electrical hook up was installed and some other improvements were made but word of the move did not get out very well. The business slumped without support and due to inconsistent hours so it never came back after a fall of dwindling customers. There were plans to come back in the spring but it did not happen. The owners opened a second brick and mortar restaurant and had a new baby – both took their food trailer out of the equation for them and Yerba Buena went up for sale.

Another mobile vendor that had some issues, technically is not in Clintonville (and the owners made sure that was the case). The Coop sat at the intersection of Cliffside and Indianola, although most people would consider the location of this trailer to be Clintonville – it is officially in the University District. It was thought this would be an advantage….not really. The Coop survived many of the same issues and requests for inspections as Ray Ray’s. In the end, their landlord bought a table to place near their trailer and they (even when was Angie was very pregnant) moved the trailer each night when done serving and moved it back the next day. While there is no health and safety reason to do so – they did because they believed in the location, the community and the customers that supported them. The Coop is gone for now, but hopes to be back in March or April with a new baby in tow.

So those are woes of three mobile vendors. Three very popular vendors with great food. You would think with all of the hullabaloo that the fine citizens of Clintonville were hyper-vigilant against these intruders. They do have their eyes out but not to stop them, with a few isolated exceptions, the community embraces these vendors. It fact, Clintonville has a long history of eateries on wheels going back ten years or more.

Other vendors served in the area but stayed off the radar. Yankee Cajun did a decent business at Crest Tavern until the owner started to manage the bar and put his trailer up for sale. Vegglicious serves out of Global Galley on High Street with some regularity at a spot which helped launch Earth’s Crust / Krazy Monkey.

With the exception of a taco truck dense area of the west side, it seems that Clintonville and the hinterlands near it, have more mobile vendors per square mile than anywhere else in the city. Let’s plot them out. Boston Bert’s is still at Blenheim and Indianola. A line drive away is Hemisphere Coffee Roasters. Moving down Indianola to where it intersects with Weber, Taste of Greece Gyros set up about a month ago. The Coop, hopefully will be back at Cliffside and Indianola in the Spring. At the intersection of Hudson and Indianola – El Manantial Latino is set up 24 hours per day. Shifting down Hudson to High Street at Ace of Cups, Ray Ray’s is doing great in in his new digs. Maya’s is digging in for the winter and frying plenty of chicken for the masses. That is six vendors in a 5 minute driving radius for Clintonvillians.

There have been several events in Clintonville involving food trucks and carts that have been warmly received including several at Maple Grove United Methodist Church and now a food pod Thursday nights at The Charity Newsies Headquarters on Indianola through at least November 1st. Each Thursday from 5:30 to 8 pm, 3 mobile vendors set up to serve dinner. All tips go to Charity Newsies for their efforts to help local children. For every $140 raised – one child receives enough clothing to have clean garments each day of the week, plus a backpack, coat and dictionary. It is a win-win for all involved.

So for a community where the perception exists that mobile food is unwanted, the reality is it is embraced. Other than sections of the west side and Cleveland Ave. area, this part of Columbus hosts more mobile vendors more often than anywhere else….but off the radar of the city.

So why is this? Where is the disconnect? As a long time resident of the area, I can say that Clintonville wants more eateries and more diversity in menus. There is a reason why Northstar has been packed since the day it opened in the area – there are few other options nearby. In Baja Clintonville (South of Weber) on High Street, there are several good restaurants and a variety of options. Just beyond the Morse Road area, there are plenty of chain restaurants at Graceland. Villa Nova has a continuously full parking lot in the borderlands that guard Clintonville from Worthington and Riverlea.

The core area of Clintonville has a dense population with limited options to serve them. It may not be a food desert but it is an eatery dead zone. The Indianola isthmus of Clintonville also has a dearth of choices and is underdeveloped compared to the High Street corridor. Existing restaurant owners may struggle and some may worry about competition. It may seem counterintuitive but more competition is what the area needs to grow and for people to keep their dining dollars in the community. More importantly, like the Short North, Grandview and other areas of town, restaurants grounded in brick and mortar or attached to wheels bring people outside the area into the community, providing an opportunity to show off what else the community has to offer – independent businesses, plenty of book stores, antique shops, services and some long-standing brick and mortar restaurants. The more traffic the community receives and retains, the more likely we can get someone to take a chance on the area and bring another fixed dining option to the community (a good building, with minimal build out costs and the ability to serve alcohol (high profit margin to serving cost) would clench the deal).

So where does mobile food fit in? It does the best where options are limited and demand is high, that area is Clintonville, north of Weber Road along Indianola and that is why we see the growth of the mobile options in the area. Surveys of residents over the years have consistently listed the need for more and better restaurants as needed amenities for the area. As long as Clintonville has a demand and no new brick and mortar options to fill the need, carts, trailers and trucks will look for the sweet spots to serve breakfast, lunch and dinner. The popularity of these mobile vendors in 2012 is no fluke or “jumping of the shark” with a here today, gone tomorrow fad. This new incantation of meals of wheels is serving a need just like the food carts of the 1920’s and 30’s did – independent business people taking the resources they can acquire to meet the needs of people who have limited food options. It is Deja Vu with a spin. If you the live in the area, come out as often as you can to support and grow your dining options. If you live outside the area, please come visit to help a small business and a small community and to prove that this can work elsewhere in our city. If you (mobile food vendor) park it they will (hopefully) come. If you serve it, they will eat (if it is good and reasonably priced).

Posted in Clintonville | 1 Comment »

Ray Ray’s 2.0: Two Trucks, Same Menu, Much Better Venue

Posted by CMH Gourmand on May 1, 2012

It was a sad day for Baja Clintonville. It was a great day for Old North Columbus, Jaime Anderson, Ace of Cups and the SoHud Non-Industrial Complex. After an extraordinary run in an unlikely convenience store parking Ray Ray’s Hog Pit has moved on.

There is no need for me to write accolades about Ray Ray’s – 96% of your already know or have read about Ray Ray’s and wanted to go but never did. You now have many more reasons to drive just slightly south on High Street for the full Ray Ray’s experience. The BBQ master is now based at Ace of Cups. What does that mean? It means beer…good beer, a patio, a great live music line up and a bar that will be successful in a location that has repeatedly failed. It also means better parking, twice the BBQ output and a pairing of two business that were meant for each other. By combining their strengths, the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Ray Rays and Ace of Cups is the Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup, (the peanut butter and chocolate) of food pairings.

Marcy Mays is the owner and bartender in chief of Ace of Cups. You might have heard of her in a past life in the band Scrawl or maybe as a one of the founders of saloon called Surly Girl. She has taken a building that was a bank, that turned into a series of failed bars. It was a place that never seemed to come together. She is making it work while working fulltime and pursuing other projects at the same time. Ace of Cups has a ping-pong table to complement the patio and an inside menu, with vegan items to complete the carnivorous offerings of Ray Ray’s.

Jaime Anderson worked in the BBQ trade before finding a niche in a trailer that did great in an unwieldy spot. The secret to success: time, word of mouth and a commitment to the art and science of BBQ that polished this diamond in the rough. It worked. But not without some barriers. The biggest obstacles – some bull-headed bureaucracy and literally a handful of people who saw a small business person, running a BBQ operation in a trailer as a threat to their customer base or as someone who should be paying a higher rent elsewhere out of self-interest, not community good.

There is a downside to the story of Ray Ray’s 1.0. This is where the bureaucracy comes in. Jaime has a trailer. Pubic Health requires that a food trailer move every 45 days. There is some obscurely worded, arcane and unclear zoning and other city regulations that are inconsistently observed as requiring a trailer to move every day. From a health and safety standpoint – there is no support for this requirement. From a practical and pragmatic point of view the 24 hour rule is rarely enforced and often ignored but for some reason the microscope zoomed in on Jaime. Maybe he was too successful, received too much press or caught some bad karma. The 1% won against the 99% on this joust.

Jaime tried to get the city departments to explain to him why he had to tear down and set each day that he was in operation. He was only set up a few days a week so the possibility of being unsafe or unsanitary did not exist. Jaime continued to hit a brick wall fighting city hall and never received a real answer. He invested money and time, hired a lawyer and more. Eventually he had to give up, suck it up and waste three to five hours each business day setting up and tearing down for no good reason. In spite of this Sisyphean effort, he continued, thrived and has now moved on. For a point of record….there is another trailer business nearby which does not set up and tear down every day. There are several mobile businesses that dodge the hoops Jaime had to jump through. Is there some reason he was singled out? Whatever it was, he has moved on to a better place and Clintonville loses a bit of its character in the process. Fortunately, Ray Ray’s is still a short bike ride away from his original spot. The Ville will miss you Ray Ray’s but we could not think of a better spot for you. Thanks for being the peanut butter Ace of Cups. And now we watch a reason to visit Clintonville and discover our other independent businesses go away. Now Ray Ray’s is a side note in our community history of lost opportunities.

Ray Ray's Hog Pit on Urbanspoon

Posted in bar, BBQ, Clintonville, Gastronomic Stimulus | Tagged: , | 6 Comments »

Requiem for Cindy King: It Is Time for Nancy’s To Become Cindy’s

Posted by CMH Gourmand on April 22, 2012

The painting above hangs at the Columbus Metropolitan Library near Whetstone Park. It represents a building, that houses a diner that is the legacy of a community icon.

Cindy King moved on to a diner somewhere above on March 3rd this year. She left behind quite a legacy and luckily she had several relatives to fill her shoes and apron. There is a need for diner like she left behind in Clintonville and Columbus and many more places on our planet. There is a true democracy to diners that can’t be replicated elsewhere, created in a corporate boardroom, summarized in a business plan or taught in culinary school. The food is secondary to the community a dinner supports and connects. Cindy King was the Queen of the connectors: she watched out for young and old, knew when to chat and when to stick to a nod and a smile. She knew people and gave them what they wanted…..needed…craved: comfort, consistency, compassion and a simple meal for five bucks. Cindy is gone but her niece Sheila has taken the hand off of the ladle with an assist from her husband Rick and her sister, the girl we watched grow up in the diner, Shelli.

I had my first meal at Nancy’s when I was six. I was not back for seconds until well after college, my friends from Cleveland had discovered a place I had forgotten right in my backyard. I remedied my oversight during the 1990’s and the early aughts of the 21st century. I wrote about the place frequently starting in 2006.

There is nothing to add about the place that has not been written by countless others. Cindy King could never be replaced but the institution she created remains. She would never want a tribute, but I think it is time to show our thanks to her for all she did for our community. My guess is she may fight this from the grave but I’ll take this risk.

Nancy’s was truly Nancy’s for just a few years. Nancy’s was Cindy’s for nearly four decades….but the name never changed. For forty years, people asked for Nancy but Cindy answered. It is now time for strangers, newcomers and greenhorns to ask for Cindy….so that Sheila, Shellie or someone on either side of the counter can tell the story of Cindy King. Then that person can eat it and beat it for the next guy.

What I am proposing is a collection to get a new sign for the diner that says Cindy’s. Our community rallied to collect over $15,000 to save the diner back in 2009….let’s collect a little less to get a new sign and honor her by adding her name to the place. Nancy’s was never Nancys, especially now. Lets change it Clintonvillians…..

I’ll donate $100.00 if someone will start a tip jar for a new sign at the restaurant.

Posted in Clintonville, Diners | Tagged: | 4 Comments »

Clintonville Pizza Challenge: The Verdict (with a serving of unsolicited pizza philosophy)

Posted by CMH Gourmand on April 19, 2012

When the series began it was for a noble purpose. Introduce new members of the Clintonville Community to the pizza dining options of Clintonville. It was also an opportunity for me to retry some places from my past and fill in the notebook on a few places untried. The concept, was to run a March Madness style bracket system with the goal of a worthy champion to be our go to pizza for our Monday gatherings. Our merry band knew there would be challenges in our challenge: conflicting tastes, a three-year addiction to Adriaticos to acknowledge and self-help our way through. We knew there would be disappointments but with twelve candidates we “knew” there would be a few princes among the frogs. Right?

Instead of the thrill of serious competition in the spirit of March Madness we had to fight through a marathon of mediocrity for five straight weeks. Here is how the series ended with limited analysis (I did not even bother to write down opinions for the last round).

Whole World: Disqualified because they are not open on Mondays.

Gatto’s: Average nothing of note

Smith’s Deli: forgotten about until the night before. Perhaps with good cause. The pizza had a school pizza sale pizza quality to it and had OK crust but the rest tasted so packaged we looked for a price tag.

Northstar Cafe: Technically disqualified for being a flatbread. While acknowledged that this was a good product and probably the most “real” food of any candidate in the series and the freshest of any ingredients. The flatbread does not travel well and failed our long-established value and volume standard….explained later if I don’t forget.

Romeo’s: OK for a chain, the winner of the evening. It has qualities of the original Dominos of the 1970’s and a big crust ring. The whole was greater than the sum of the parts on this one and what won the day for Romeo’s was sauce. The sauce was persistently present in each bite and tasted like….pizza sauce. The others lacked any sauce of note or measure.

Going through all of the contenders, the only pizzas our gang would order again for a second trial would be Hounddogs and Belleria. Only these two would have made it to a second round. Gauging preferences among the group, Hounddogs would have been the winner. However, after leading my flock through 40 days of pizza purgatory, there was no way to take them further on the journey and thus the series ends with a fizzle. In all we tried the thirteen independent and small chain pizzas of Clintonville minus Whole World and Mama Mimi’s. It was a noble effort.

On the upside, our hosts seem to have taken a shine to Belleria (based on the many boxes I see in the household between Mondays. And, strangely enough, they don’t opt for delivery, that seems like a moral victory of some sort. The head of the household of our hosting site likes the Italian accented banter of the Mama Mia at the shop when he picks up his prize.

Also, it is noted that Adriaticos was picked up for consumption on the day of this dispatch and devoured at the host site so all is now well at our undisclosed testing zone and Nerd Night headquarters in Middle Clintonville.

What was learned. The perception in Columbus is that Clintonville is weak in dining choices. In the case of pizza that is true, not much to write home about (even in my own home) in the Ville. How sad. However there is hidden in our borders a pizza genius. A master of baking, furnace and fire tweaking who like a classic Marvel superhero, hides his powers from the world is his cider block fortress in Baja Clintonville. Yet instead of using his powers for good, he taunts the world with glimpses of the good he could do for his community and fights my ongoing efforts for him to seize his destiny to cook pizza for the pizza deprived neighbors. My garage is filled with fire bricks awaiting construction of a clandestine wood fired pizza oven. If we build it, they will dine. But alas, I digress, for this last paragraph is written for our reluctant champion and the ten people who know of whom I refer.

Back on track now. The end of the series was not without some drama. As a planning and communication tool, Facebook has some weaknesses. I did add Smith’s at the last-minute so only I knew about this dark horse late entry. Due to working at my job instead of checking some late Facebook updates, I was not aware that a pizza had not been ordered from Whole World, so when I showed to pick it up, I arrived to locked doors. My next stop was Romeos where I thought I was picking up a pizza. There was none to be had at my arrival even after using every possible name I could think the order might be under. My phone failed when I called to check with Pizza Challenge central so I decided to play it safe and be a man of action therefore I ordered a pizza to be delivered. I then went to Gattos and get the last pizza for pick up.

Reflecting on the series as a whole was difficult. The day before the last round, I was a judge for the Pizza Grand Prix series at Wild Goose Creative. Having good pizza still fresh in my mind and digestive system as well as having created the judging criteria for the amateur pizza competition, the consumption of mediocre pizza was extra painful to my soul and senses. After years of defending Columbus Pizza from transplants (and citing may good places to get it) I had to accept that we do have a lot of sub par pizza served within our city limits. Such should not be the case.

What makes a pizza great? As with all things food related – there is not much objective to say on something as subjective as personal taste. I will say some basic truths do hold evident from our pizza tasting series. A good pizza needs these characteristics:

1) Good sauce. Simple. There should be something of flavor in the base – some salt, oregano, garlic…something. It must have more than tin tinged tomato taste and it should show some resistance to a strainer.

2) A ratio of sauce to cheese, cheese to crust and base crust to crust edge that allows the flavors of all to be tasted in each bite.

It is too technically complex to write out this theorem in mathematic terms but such a ratio does exist in the minds and palettes of men and such a ratio was not seen in most of the pizzas we tried. Most were weak on sauce or seemed to lack any substance or flavor in the sauce.

3) Crust should have flavor with some chewiness (this may not be a true word, but when has that ever stopped me) and some crunch or at least mild resistance in the crust edge. It can be cracker crust or thick crust but it needs to taste like something other than dough or Wonder Bread and it should be firm not soggy.

4) Cheese. Cheese should be real. The cheese ratio should not be greater in density or volume to the crust + sauce in a ratio of 3 (parts cheese) : 2 (parts sauce + crust)

5) Volume + Price = Value. Value = one advance in ranking; lack of value equals two descents in ranking. A B+ pizza that is $10.99 beats an A+ pizza at $18.99 that can only feed 1/3 the number of people as the B+ pizza. A similar ratio applies to wine. Two good bottles of $10.99 wine beat one slightly better bottle of $21.99 wine.

If you NEED good pizza this is where you will find it: The Rossi, Adriaticos, Hounddogs, Bono, Harvest Pizzeria, Hi-Beck Tavern and at an undisclosed backyard in Baja Clintonville where a reclusive pizza craftsman tinkers with a Frankengrill toiling over micro-refinements in process to perfect his pizza to surpass the 99.9999875391% level of goodness, in his mad obsession with perfection.

There is good pizza in Clintonville but most of you will never have it and the rest of you will have to accept that you are driving out of the 43214 for a decent pizza pie.

Posted in Clintonville, Columbus, culinary knowledge, culinary misadventure | Tagged: | 5 Comments »