I have been at this for seven years. A lot has changed in that time. I thank each of you who continue to read and hopefully enjoy the ongoing works and adventures of CMH Gourmand.
Happy Anniversary: Thank You Readers & The Seven Year Itch
Posted by CMH Gourmand on August 28, 2013
Posted in food | 4 Comments »
9 Tables (In Athens)
Posted by CMH Gourmand on August 17, 2013
Nine Tables is exactly that. Nine Tables. Most often it is three 4 tops and six 2 tops. The concept is simple: for three nights per week, Nine Tables aims to serve twenty to thirty people per evening in a personal, slower paced manner similar to dining in Europe. Guests are invited to have a long, slow dinner at their own pace. Your table is yours for the entire evening from 5 pm to midnight if you choose. Tables are not “flipped” so when your dinner is complete your table gets the rest of the evening off. At first thought, one might think this would be a formal, stuffy experience….far from it, an evening at 9 Tables can be anything you want it to be. Most often it will be informal, fun and relaxing.
The atmosphere is intimate, the small space is dark and cozy but there is enough space between tables for each group to have their own experience but also close enough to encourage camaraderie. The restaurant is BYOB and it is not uncommon for people to trade bottles or share during the evening.
The best table to reserve is set up next to the chefs prep table which allows full access to all the action and to Chef Bill throughout the evening. For each guest, dining at 9 Tables is like having a personal chef at your home.
The restaurant is largely a two person operation. Husband and wife team Bill and Suzanne Justice run most of the show throughout the evening. Suzanne minds the tables and assists with prep and running dishes out. Chef Bill cooks and banters among guests throughout the evening. Choices are a tasting menu of seven or five courses. Almost all of the ingredients are sourced within Athens County usually on Thursdays to get ready for the weekend. Combined the duo work hard to create a complete culinary experience for their guests from first course to the ending dessert.
The two have an interesting history. They met at ACEnet – the local food business incubator. Bill was working as a food scientist. Suzanne was developing a product. They found they had a lot in common which led to marriage, a child. Those commonalities made them want to make a different dining experience for customers which would also led to creating a family friendly business model for themselves. Their limited hours allow both to spend more time with their family and focus on each of their customers individually. Bill started in the food business in “the front of the house” and then decided later in his restaurant career to become a chef. His combined food service experiences helped him to define exactly what he wanted 9 Tables to be: simple, fresh and fun.
While it is mainly just the couple working the house for the evening, they do have a few staff drop in to help during the peak hours of the evening and to clean up after the doors close. Their two ten-year old daughters help out as well. Isabella helps make the cheesecakes and Sophie assists with the creme brulee – both rake in big tips when they come in to serve for special events. If you book a private event the two young ladies might make jewelry for your party to take home.
The 9 Tables menu is constantly changing based on what is fresh and in season. Many dishes can be adjusted to meet a guests tastes or dietary needs. Since the menu I enjpyed won’t be the one you experience, I will just focus on two of the seven courses of my meal and I why I enjoyed them.
My favorite dish of the evening was a serving of mussels. These were prepared in a sauce of white wine, heavy whipping cream (Snowville of course), garlic, red pepper flakes and parsley. All simple ingredients and all mixed to just the right proportion. The sauce and mussels were draped onto a freshly toasted slice of bread which swam….then sunk into the sauce. The best sign of a good dish of mussels is when I choose to drink the sauce at the end. I left no drop behind.
My second favorite dish, was, maybe surprisingly, a salad. Suzanne mentioned the salads change constantly but are always more than just a simple mix of greens. My salad was a combination of fresh local greens, small balls of mozzarella and a few pickled peaches and onions. I don’t like onions and have never had a peach in a salad before but the pickling of both accentuated the flavors perfectly and made all of the elements of the salad able to stand on their own and together. The wholes were great but the sum of the parts were even greater. Because the onions were palatable and the peaches perfectly preserved I asked Bill how they came to him pickled. He shared with me that he pickled them a few hours before serving to help preserve their flavors. His pickling approach is a simple process which takes very little time but he finds it is one of the small touches people usually notice.
My meal of seven courses lasted over three hours, if the Designated Diner and I were not in such a hurry to get back to Columbus before midnight, we would have stayed much longer. Dining at 9 Tables is like dining in a friend’s home for a small dinner party. It is a good exercise in retraining ourselves to the art of eating well: small courses spread over a long period of time so the meal and the company can be enjoyed equally. I will also mention that while I rarely drink coffee in the evening I was more than happy to indulge in locally produced Dawn Chorus Coffee, it was a perfect close to a wonderful evening. Thank you Bill and Suzanne for your hospitality.
9 Tables
Regular Hours: Th, F, Sat – 5pm to midnight
Posted in CLOSED, restaurants | Tagged: 9 Tables, Bill Justice, Nine Tables | Leave a Comment »
Swooping into the Coop’s spot at the Hey Hey
Posted by CMH Gourmand on August 11, 2013
The Hey Hey is an iconic dive bar located in Merion Village / German Village. It previously served as host kitchen to Angela Theado of the Coop. The Coop will soon be perched in a new spot in Clintonville so Angie put out a call for another Food Truck chef to fill her spot. Matt Heaggans swooped in to get that spot as the brick and mortar extension of his Swoop Food Truck.
Actually, the official name of Swoop is Swoop Food Group and it is now a combination of a food truck, two food carts and a lot of good culinary ideas. The Swoop truck was birthed in Washington D.C. a few years ago. It was at that time that my relationship with Swoop began. The captain guiding the ship at Swoop is Chef Matt Heaggans. About two years ago, I started e-mailing with him as he was planning his journey back to Columbus. I have come to know Matt and his crew well over the last year. The constant theme in anything Matt does is a desire to do more than expected and do it better. He maintains a high standard for all of the food he prepares from a lowly tater tot to the most haute of cuisines. Matt is a man of many words however, I enjoy him best when he is quiet. Let me clarify that. I have watched him intently crafting a dish in a kitchen with intense concentration and focus. At these moments he is in the zone and it is truly a pleasure to observe. What I enjoy best is watching him silently watch someone who is enjoying what he has created for them. He watches, smiles briefly then moves on. Sometimes the smile is a smirk and other times it is a large grin but it is always from the heart. Matt is happiest when he can see someone enjoy the craft of his labors.
The Hey Hey has a long tradition of serving food. The old standard expected from any chef who calls the kitchen home are the sauerkraut balls. Yak was added to the menu by the Coop and it continues as the signature protein of the Swoop menu. A bit of back story on Yak. The son of the owner of the Hey Hey operates a Yak Farm. The Coop featured a Yak Burger when it was a food truck. That relationship fostered the transition of the Coop to roost in the kitchen of the Hey Hey. Yak was quickly embraced by the very diverse clientage of the Hey Hey and has become so entwined with the Hey Hey experience that it had to remain on the new Swoop menu.
I am sure that menu may change over time. I am also confident that two of the new menu items will remain as long as Matt is cooking in the Kitchen. The first is a burger that was described by one person I dined with as the “best fucking burger ever”. That was from a man who rarely uses profanity. His wife, who does use profanity frequently, took a different approach. She silently ate much more of the burger than she planned, a lot more. She was impressed too – but speechless about it which is the highest of compliments. The Yak Attack is a double Yak Burger served on a toasted brioche bun (made by Matt Swint formerly of the Per Zoot Food Truck), a special sauce (which I can not reveal) and a garnish of arugula, diced onion and tomato. It may sound exotic but I would say it is the epitome of a classic American burger just with yak instead of beef. It tastes lean. The bun is moist and has a slight crunch but just enough firmness to hold everything in place. It is among the finest burgers I have ever had. Given the opportunity to sample a few more over the course of time, I may even come to call it the best burger ever. I don’t give praise like that away. The Yak Attack is all that but does not need the bag of nuts.
The second menu feature I foresee as an enduring feature is House Pimento Cheese with Toasted Bread. The cheese dip has just enough spicy kick to it to keep your attention. The toasted bread is dense, chewy and filled with plenty of holes to soak up the dip. This is the perfect item to share with friends. Soon you will be interested to find how many other menu items you will find yourself spreading leftover cheese sauce on.
There are many good reasons to go to the Hey Hey. You can go to enjoy the bar, soak in the history of the place, enjoy one of the wonderful live music performances hosted there, or partake in some exquisite people watching. And now the Hey hey adds in some of the finest bar food or any food for that matter. Check it out Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays evenings.
Posted in CLOSED, hamburgers, Mobile Food, restaurants | Tagged: Swoop | 2 Comments »
Slate Run Vineyard
Posted by CMH Gourmand on August 10, 2013
It took two trips for me to find Slate Run Vineyard. Based on my chat with owner Keith Pritchard, that is a common occurrence. It seems his land is located where three counties and several different mail system merge together. GPS systems are frequently stymied when trying to find Slate Run. So to help you, here is the key to not driving up and down Winchester Southern Road for hours on end. Find Slate Run Metro Park and drive 1/2 mile north looking for the sign below.
After turning onto the gravel driveway you will find a large estate vineyard with over sixty varieties of grapes. All the wines at Slate Run are made with grapes from the property. Keith admits he may have lost count on the exact number. He started volunteering time at Shamrock Vineyard and from there….his collection grew and grew. He opened Slate Run in 1996. The property houses a tasting room and a Weinhaus which is used for weddings, meeting and more. It is largely a one man show at Slate Run. Keith has an extensive knowledge of wine and some opinions on the complexities of selling wine in Ohio. Over a dozen wines are available for sampling and sale. In addition to an appreciation of (or at least support for) Ohio wine Keith and I share a love of Ohio cheese. Pearl Valley Cheeses are available to enjoy with samples or to take with a bottle for a picnic at the nearby park. For my opinions on Pearl Valley Cheese as being one of the finest our state has to offer take a journey back in time to this post from 2008.
The Slate Run Vineyard is scenic and mostly peaceful, in between frequent automated bird chirpers which sound off to protect Keith’s grapes from varmints and the like. As a day trip, the Vineyard pairs well with a jaunt to the nearby Metro Park and a stroll through downtown Canal Winchester or even Lithopolis. As for which wine to try or buy I can’t advise you on the best one, I only sampled a five or six. I did enjoy the Rose and thought it was a reasonable value for the price. I am sure you will find at least one wine that pleases your palate and your pocketbook. The scenery and some wine education from Keith is well worth the drive. Add in a bottle of wine and a meandering drive finding Slate Run and you have a great Ohio afternoon.
Slate Run Vineyard
900 Winchester Southern Road
Canal Winchester
614.834.8577
Posted in Ohio, Road Trip, wine | Leave a Comment »
First Glance: Mozart’s Beechwold
Posted by CMH Gourmand on August 7, 2013
Beechwold, that northern nook of Clintonville, has waited long for a viable food option between Henderson Road and Morse Road. Mozart’s delivers what the masses have waited for. However, I am going to skip the culinary aspect of the place. While the menu is largely familiar to long time Mozart’s customers the space is new as is some staff, systems and recipes. Don’t fret, Food still matters and I may discuss that somewhere down the road, but what really counts here is the most defining aspect that Mozart’s created with their new space….community.
The inside is an expanse of several nooks and crannies. There is an outdoor patio, some small tables in crevices at the front, a large room of family style tables in the center and an extensive common area/event space/multi-purpose area in the section farthest from the main entrance. Each area has a distinct sense of space. Part feels like a restaurant, part feels like a cafe and one area has the feel of a ballroom. There are several pianos placed throughout to reinforce the musical connect to the Mozart’s namesake. Images in the wall pay homage to Mozart, Austria and the Old Beechwold Ballroom. Throughout these spaces there is a mix of young and old, family and friends, large groups and solo coffee sippers. Some people are dashing in for ice cream or a treat from the bakery case while the rest are easing into an extended stay in a cozy, relaxing environment. Guests come by foot, bike and car but definitely a large minority is walking from their homes.
Mozart’s feels like it has been in this neighborhood for years instead of the few weeks since it opened the doors. Home is conveyed by how everyone seems to feel comfortable on both sides of the counter. Community us reinforced with tables dedicated to local business information. One table is set aside for Million Lego for Kids as great cause with a Columbus connection. All in all the vibe is library meets dance hall or somewhere in between.
In summary the largest serving at Mozart’s community while is ladled out with reckless abandon and that is the what Beechwold has hungered for the most.
Thank you Anand Saha and family for adding to the community and saving us from fast food and disconnected neighbors.
4784 North High St
Beechwold
Closed Mondays
<a href=”https://www.zomato.com/columbus-oh/mozarts-clintonville-columbus” title=”View Menu, Reviews, Photos & Information about Mozart’s, Clintonville and other Restaurants in Columbus, Ohio” target=”_blank” ><img alt=”Mozart's Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info – Zomato” src=”https://www.zomato.com/logo/17118368/biglink” style=”border:none;width:200px;height:146px;padding:0;” /></a>
Posted in Clintonville, desserts | Leave a Comment »
Cookie Cravings: It Takes a Village
Posted by CMH Gourmand on July 31, 2013
I have been wanting to write about Cookie Cravings for a long time. More than a year. I meant to write about Cookie Cravings BSS (Before Seventh Son). You may have heard the phrase, it takes a village. In the case of Cookie Cravings, I think they were the tipping point for Italian Village and it’s renaissance. (Let me not fail to mention pioneer Michelle Hill at St. James Tavern for planting her feet in Italian Village more than a decade ago).
Cookie Cravings started as….a place that did cookies, really good ones. And over time, it continued to grow and expand the menu while reconfiguring the space too. Add in a few picnic tables, some chairs and signs to help you find the place (you need to know where to look) and Cookie Cravings really creates a sense of home. It has also given a food outlet to the starved denizens of Italian Village. What started as a pop up creperie on the weekends became a regular breakfast destination with all kinds of crepe and sandwich offerings – plus the occasional sticky bun.
Matt and Lindsay Tewanger have worked hard to create a place for the community and offer what their neighbors asked for to make Italian Village start to feel like the Village it was meant to be, where neighbors walk to a corner shop and come back again.
It takes a good meal to keep the Village in the village instead of driving away to the burbs. And those that visit walk around and think that they could see themselves there too.
I recently popped in for a breakfast. I had a bite of a perfect crepe but spent most of my efforts on a breakfast sandwich recommended by Matt called the California Club. In between one of his Brioche rolls was a stack of roasted chicken, avocado, bacon, fresh spinach and a dollop of garlic aioli. See below. It tasted as good as it looks.
Posted in CLOSED | 1 Comment »
Kuhlwein’s Farm Market and & Deli
Posted by CMH Gourmand on July 30, 2013
As some of you know, I have often said that there are only two reasons to go to Hilliard: Starliner Diner and Olive Tree. I have now added a third – Kuhlweins. I went there in search of two items. Jami’s Cheesecake and the Kulhwein’s Sub. I was only able to get one, we will get to that in bit.
Kuhlwein’s has evolved from a farm stand to an almost-suburban farmers market destination. The market is located next to some of its fresh produce, in particular, farm fresh corn. Visitors have come to that for years. The recently expanded their deli and it’s offerings to include a wider range of sandwiches and lunch meats. My goad was the Italian sub, but they were out of subs. How could this be? Well it seems that they serve the sub with a special multi-herb and seasoned Italian dressing that uncle Kuhlwein has crafted about 6 months ago (according to his nephew). This is liberally doused onto an Auddinos (home of the cronut) sub bun then piled high with freshly sliced deli meats, fresh lettuce and tomatoes then topped with mix of mozzarella and provolone cheeses which melts while the bun is toasted. They start making them fresh daily at 11:00 am.
Sounds like the perfect sandwich right? Well, as it goes, it may be. However, I did not eat it. They generally run out of sauce and ingredients early in the day so it is suggested that you order ahead. I was told they would make more sauce but they have two people picking corn full-time right now and if they had enough people they would have two more out there. So no extra hands to increase sauce production. The sandwich was described to me by a combination of employees and nearby customers – they all love the sub and say they have sworn off all other subs.
I’ll be back for that sub.
Also at Kuhlwein’s are large scoops of ice cream, a lot of produce. homemade baked goods from many nearby bakers, canned and pickles vegetables, groceries, a lot of corn, on the day I arrived a sign for free rabbits and much more.
I did find Jami’s Cheesecake – there were a few left. I sampled the Oreo. It was exquisite. Dense, moist, fresh, with a very tasty crust. Every rating area on my cheesecake index scored in the 10 out of 10 level. Thank goodness they had the cheesecake. And thank you Jami – whoever you are, you make a great product.
When I have the sub sandwich, I am sure I will tweet about it and hope to write about it too.
1859 Walker Rd
Hilliard
614 876-2833
Kuhlweins.com
Posted in bakery, culinary misadventure, desserts, pies, Road Trip, sandwiches, Sub Dude | 4 Comments »
Quicklick: Gelateria (at Caffe DaVinci)
Posted by CMH Gourmand on July 21, 2013
As you are all aware, the heat and humidity index has been less than ideal. Perhaps the heat of July is what inspired this month to be declared national ice cream month many years ago. While I consume more than an average amount of ice cream throughout the year, I find it extra appealing during the heat of summer. (Now wait a minute some astute readers of CMH Gourmand are thinking, the title says Gelataria – that means a place that serves gelato). Yes, ice cream and gelato are different. Those differences make gelato even more appealing on a hot day. Gelato appeals to my summer bred sloth and impatience when not given instant gratification. The differences between gelato and ice cream make gelato an even better choice during the peak of the heat.
I have written in the past about my policy of having ice cream “sweat”. I don’t condone eating ice cream instantly. It is often served “hard” from the container – still very cold and resistant to quick licking. I prefer to wait about 5 minutes to let the ice cream start to melt. This improves the flavors and how they mix together, limits the dangers of the ice cream headache and makes ice cream easier to lick, spoon or slurp. Gelato is stored and served about 15 degrees warmer than ice cream, which means it is at optimal consumption temperature the second it slides into the bowl. It is also made with less cream and more milk so it is a less heavy to the taste and slightly lower in fat therefore less likely to propel one into an ice cream coma after completion.
So yes, I am a fan of gelato but it is a rare thing in Columbus. The few places where I do find it, I often walk away disappointed because it is typically just repackaged mass-produced gelato from elsewhere which is neither fresh nor refreshing. I wrote about the Caffe DaVinci Gelateria way back in 2007. I did not forget about the place but I had mistakenly thought Caffe DaVinci had closed. Driving by recently, I saw the open sign in the window and decided to see if their gelato was still as good as I remembered it.
It is. Twelve rotating flavors are offered. The staff behind the serving freezer are friendly (they have the best job in the building) and they are assisted with translations of the flavors on the back of each sign. Samples are encouraged. Servings and samples are both ample. I can not think of another place in town that would have better or more authentic gelato to offer. The owners are clearly gelato enthusiasts as shown by proudly displaying photos of famous gelaterias throughout Italy. Other than not honoring the tradition of paying first before ordering, the rest of the gelato experience here will be pleasing to the palate and cool you sufficiently to survive the rest of the summer.
Posted in desserts, gelato | Tagged: gelateria | Leave a Comment »
Food Truck Tour via Columbus Food Adventures
Posted by CMH Gourmand on July 16, 2013
One might think that as writer and tri-creator of Taco Trucks Columbus and Street Eats Columbus (as well as my daily work with the food truck community) that I would be food trucked out. Quite the opposite. I found that I wanted a fresh perspective and different point of view on mobile food. I hoped to feel like it was my first taste into this culture again. I wanted to see the world of food trucks through fresh eyes once more. So instead of being my own guide, I opted to ride along on the newly added Food Truck Tour with Columbus Food Adventures as an anonymous rider and to listen to the questions “greenhorns” would have.
One might say, with the two websites in place, why would anyone want to go on a tour of food trucks when you can DIY. I would counter with – why wouldn’t you not want to take a tour? If you have never tried a food truck, then you want to do a tour for sure. First, the tour ensures you are sampling some of the best in the city. Second, you are being educated on the culture and nuances of the food truck world at each stop as well as additional background and commentary between each destination. Third, you typically get to meet the owners of the food trucks and have one on one time with them. Often they are creating a sampler of some of their favorite dishes to share with you to make a first good impression to get you to come back. Fourth it is fun. Fifth there are five trucks to try. Sixth it is a great way to meet new people who share a common interest….or at least a curiosity. And seventh, you will be full by the middle of the tour and definitely stuffed at the end.
So if you are a newbie to this world, the reasons above should sell you on the concept. But what if you are an experienced Taco Trucker or Food Truck enthusiast like me? In my own experiences, my personal interaction with food trucks for food has become pure hunter and gatherer mode…wham, bam, thank you ma’am of sir as I get my food and go. On the tour, I was able to go back to the good old days where I could sit back and leisurely enjoy my food while getting to know the owner and finding out why they decided to do this as their living. That was a big part of the joy for me in the beginning of my mobile food exploration phase where I could appreciate the personal connection between the customer and owner. The experience changes from transactional to educational and conversational. Plus, the sampler plates are often unique to the tour. Indecisive and don’t know what to order, these mobile amuse bouches (can I use that word?) will give you a quick and efficient sample of what the truck boss thinks is the best.
The current tour presents a variety of menus and a mix of old pros and new kids on the block.
Our first stop was Ajumama which is based at the future site of Zauber Brewing in 5th Ave. Chef Laura Lee creates a mini sampler of 3-4 of her signature dishes. She is very articulate and passionate about her business and takes pride in explaining her Korean cuisine.
Next on our route was Ray Ray’s, now based at Ace of Cups in Old North Columbus. The sampler here is a mix of brisket, pork, a rib, a chicken wing from Jamie’s new venture inside the bar and his personal favorite sidedish, a mini serving of greens (which he says he eats with every meal).
Ray Ray’s former location is the new home of Mya’s Chicken. Mark the chef, owner and chief chicken fryer presents a slightly different sampler each time based on his signature items as well as what his daily special may be. And thank goodness, there is a biscuit, one of the best in the city.
Our fourth stop (ownership has changed (2019) so I was requested by the new owners to remove mention of the truck in question from this post because (I speculate) they were concerned a post from 2013 might hurt their brand. So I will say that in 2013 the only Indonesian food truck in Columbus (and probably the only Indonesian food based experience to be had in central Ohio or Ohio as a state). There really is nothing like this in town. As a bonus, (name removed) shares a parking lot of Taco Nazo, one of the favorites of the Taco Trucks Columbus team so a little Taco Truck history is thrown in as a no calorie side dish.
The fifth and final destination for our tour was Tokyo GoGo based at Brothers Drake in the Short North (this changed in 2017). In addition to getting an education on authentic Japanese style late night bar food there is an opportunity to try some very unique Ohio made mead in the process.
The itinerary I joined may not be the same as the one you take on your tour but you can expect to try five or more of the best trucks in town and then be well prepared to continue on your own food truck adventures afterwards.
For more information on the Food Truck Tour, cruise over to the Columbus Food Adventures website.
Posted in culinary knowledge, Mobile Food, Road Trip, tour | Leave a Comment »
































