CMH Gourmand – Eating in Columbus & Ohio

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Behind the Counter: Slinging Hot Dogs at O’Betty’s

Posted by CMH Gourmand on September 13, 2011

My first job was at Knight’s Ice Cream in Clintonville. I started as a sophomore in high school and left the summer of my senior year. I made $2.85 per hour to begin, my top salary was $3.50. It took a long time to save for a car. The job taught me a lot. A lifelong love of ice cream began. I discovered I liked food…well I obsessively loved it, actually. I observed that a cup filled with ice and pop dumped in a trash is not cool. Since that discovery I never dump anything with liquid in a trash can because I know what it is like to clean up the mess. I found I was not good with down time on the job and would seek out something to do. I never lost the restlessness – but I am trying really hard now. In the winter when it was slow and I was working by myself, I started to experiment with everything we had in the shop – ice cream combinations, Sprite and sherbet shakes, chocolate covered anything, intriguing sandwich combinations and etc. I still engage in some reckless culinary experiments.

The job laid a foundation. I found I was a shy kid that enjoyed interacting with people and getting to know their preferences to make sure they got what they needed. One lady came in every Thursday for a scoop of coffee ice cream. I gave her one on the house after a year of repetition, she was shocked as if she had never been treated before, maybe she had not. Another customer came in every Saturday at 4:45 pm or even closer to the 5 pm switchover. He ordered five milkshakes of various types. It was always busy when he ambled in. The multi-shake request messed up the flow of our shift change. It briefly ticked me off. I discovered he was giving the shakes to his buddies at my favorite hobby shop. I then saw his act as generosity and that changed my mind and my attitude. The work I have enjoyed the most has included a lot of social interaction with new people, an opportunity to be creative in some way and autonomy. I miss that. I need that. The work I enjoyed did not feel like work….I know that is a rare thing for most people. I enjoy finding and making a connection to an idea or a person or at least giving the world something useful or entertaining.

I had micro-bursts of food service over the years. I volunteered for several food events: wine bartender at ComFest for years, my hot dog festivals and chili parties were famous in their day, washing plates at countless events, my Pizza Grand Prix series. Last summer I grilled 100 hot dogs for the masses at the Goodale Park Music Series. I enjoyed educating people about hot dog history and styles as they waited for their order to grill up. I have written about food since 1999 but only from the diners side. I felt an urge to get on the “right” side of the counter.

I’ve been a fan of O’Betty’s in Athens for years and a fan of hot dogs even longer. I came to know owner Bob Satmary over many hot dogs and chats about the Athens food scene. I think O’Betty’s is the best hot dog shop in the state…maybe the Midwest. I needed to balance out my perspective by getting behind the counter again. I asked Bob if I could work pro-bono to get my serving legs back. He said sure, come on down.

I arrived on a Saturday morning at 11:00 am, ready to work. I donned an apron then got the lay of the land behind the counter. The space in the place is small with no room to nudge past each other – single file from the grill to the cash register. My orientation covered how to make the best fries in the Ohio, the secret to serving a tofu dog that is worth eating and with a bit of trial and error how to create the various O’Betty’s hot dog varieties as well as how to redo a few mistakes I made along the way. Bob was a patient and effective teacher.

It was a slow Saturday but we had a few rushes to test the skills I have learned. It was clear I still had a lot to learn but Bob and his number one, soon to tour Europe Rockstar, employee John jumped in when needed and reminded me of the band of brothers teamwork that comes in a restaurant when things get tight. At the end I finally figured out the cuneiform style code O’Betty’s uses on order tickets. I was getting the swing of things and feeling confident “back in the saddle.”

During a couple slow periods I had a chance to speak with a few of the customers. Two guys on scooters from Ann Arbor were traveling around Ohio following places they found on Roadfood. I wrote two of them – O’Betty’s and Starliner Diner. I gave them a list of six places in Columbus for dinner. Another gentleman from Manhattan, currently working in Marietta, sang praises of the Athens and Columbus food scenes. I agreed and gave him a lot more food for thought and consumption in the capital city. I also made him a “Dixie” to go which he felt passed muster. O’Betty’s customers are almost all regulars and become part of the family in a short period of time. Photos of the favorite “family members” can be found on the wall opposite the register.

I did some cleaning and some prep. More hot dogs were grilled and buns steamed. I made one for myself and enjoyed the end result very much. I was told I did pretty well for the first day and had a job if I needed one! Knowledge confirmed: Hot dogs are best held in a hot water bath before grilling, fries are best soaked, blanched, then fried, customer service is the key to any business, when you connect with the customer everything else falls into place. My payment was a cookie and an afternoon of learning about hot dogs as well as rediscovering a lost part of myself. Writing is best and easiest when writing of a subject you love. It is another thing, but good to write about something you do or have done (unless it is something soul sucking). I was back behind the counter. I may be back at O’Betty’s for a shift or two this fall (but not Halloween – sorry Bob). I may be at another restaurant or bakery near you doing the same thing, providing the perspective from the other side.

O’Betty’s Red Hot! Dogs and Sausages
15 West State Street
Athens
740.589.6111

Knight’s Ice Cream
Clintonville – Gone
(torn down in the 1990’s, the site is now a vet’s office)

Posted in Behind the Counter, hot dogs | Tagged: , | 5 Comments »

The Coop Flies into Baja Clintonville

Posted by CMH Gourmand on September 9, 2011

The Coop
2701 Indianola
(Corner of Cliffside and Indianola, just north of Hudson)
Clintonville
614.581.9353
Tues-Fri Noon-8
Sat: 9-5

The Coop opened up on September 8th with no fanfare and a light rainstorm. The first day went well. The chef in The Coop worked at Alana’s for over two years. The menu is still being developed and the regular hours and days of operation are being figured out. There will be Facebook and Twitter addresses for the Coop sometime soon.

News of this new trailer was verified on site by our friend Dave from Weber Cam who said……

Sorry I didn’t get all the details, but the wing I just stole before dinner was sublime. I can’t tell if fried or roasted, not greasy, the meat was very, very nice. Not hot, just the sauce over it was a typical vinegary hot sauce, and a sprinkle of blue cheese and some really, really good coleslaw on the side.

All packaging biodegradable (this part I find fascinating, it’s very cool, polylactide I believe).

Using the power of e-mail, I was on the scene within the hour. The Coop is a former Cinnamon Roll fair cart that has been repurposed as something better. The Coop also has a fair share of chicken wire added to the frame for barnyard aesthetics. The food is not far from the farm at this trailer either. The eggs and poultry come from North Market Poultry and Game. Other North Market vendors are sourced as well. The cheese is supplied by Meadowmade. The chef and her assistant shop for produce at area Farmers Markets on Mondays and Tuesdays. And for a touch of environmentally friendly vending – the carry out containers, forks and such are Earthaware – as biodegradable as there is.

Two menu’s are shown below. The chicken and eggs sampled were prepared perfectly. We will see what develops with The Coop and will update this post as new information comes in.


Posted in Clintonville, CLOSED, Locally Sourced | Tagged: | 4 Comments »

Taken in by TAT Ristorante di Famiglia

Posted by CMH Gourmand on September 6, 2011

One thing leads to another. I was working on an article about Pizza. TAT was the first Columbus restaurant to serve pizza in 1929. As I was writing, I recalled I had not been to TAT since 2008. That is too long. I drive by their teaser sign on I-70 during the course of my adventures a couple of times per month. My recollection was Columbus Foodie did a very good write up of the place in early 2011. I wondered if I could find a different spin on the place. After finally going back, I decided I did not need to write anything new. The magic of TAT is the timeless nature of the place. The good elements of the restaurant can not be shared too many times.

The fourth generation of Corrova’s as well as members of the third and second generations are still working at TAT. Most family businesses struggle to make it past one lifespan. TAT did, so they must be doing several things right. Many of their servers and employees have been working at the restaurant for decades. Many of their customers have been dining there for decades too. Again, this is impressive. How does this happen? How is a community of owners, employees and customers created at a restaurant?

The secret to the business can be figured out over one Sunday afternoon meal. The current location opened in 1978, nothing has changed since then, in fact, the dining room could easily be from the 1950’s, it looks and feels like a time capsule. Consistency is the key here. Most of the customers are known by name and eating preferences. Three servers work on each half of the TAT and they know the menu, their tables and their customers. In my time there I was called honey eight to ten times and my shoulder was patted on at least twelve occasions. I felt like I was eating at some Italian grandmothers house and that I was the favored son for eating so much so well. I also give credit to TAT for only serving RC products, the PBR of the cola family.

TAT still makes a really good pizza. It is different from the 1929 version. The crust is medium in thickness, crunchy on the edges and chewy on the innards. TAT pizza also passes the next day cold pizza test. I opted for full sensory experience of the Sicilian Delight. Paul and Becke from Columbus Foodie do this spread better justice so take a look at what they had to say.

Here is what this ten course meal includes:


Glass of wine – choice of three types
Italian salad

Homemade soup choice: Wedding or Minestrone

Sicilian Bread (Toasted and drenched in Italian spices and cheese)
Spaghetti with meatball
Veal parmigiana

Meat filled Ravioli
Homemade Italian sausage
Manicotti with ricotta cheese

Spumoni ice cream

Yes, it was a lot. I did not try to finish it.

There is a lot to enjoy at TAT other than the food. The back hallway houses a mural depicting Transcontinental Air Transport, the first coast to coast airline (with some significant help from trains). The waitresses have many stories to tell if they have a free moment. Owner Jimmy Corrova checks in with as many customers as he can. On the Sunday I visited, it appeared that an African-American church or social event had just ended. Many elderly customers came in sporting great looking suits, dresses and hats. It felt like a cross between the Oscars and the 1950’s – there were top hats, perfectly shined shoes, you name it. It felt classy……I did not feel that way in my Commfest T-Shirt.

The sauces are slow-cooked and homemade. Egg Noodles are common, the ravioli appear to be made by hand and there are countless other touches you hope for in an old school, family friendly Italian restaurant. Come for the food, enjoy the atmosphere, appreciate the service and take in a serving of history. TAT serves a full sensory experience, the food is just a portion of the whole.

1210 South James Road
(corner of James and Livingston)
Eastside
614.236.1392
www.tatitalian.com
(TAT has their own jingle / theme song – sing along when you visit the webpage)

Tat Ristorante di Famiglia on Urbanspoon

Posted in pizza, restaurants | Tagged: , | 1 Comment »

The Monolith Sandwich at Neighbor’s Deli: The First Attempt

Posted by CMH Gourmand on August 31, 2011

Fate took me to Neighbor’s Deli. It seems that when I am in transition an eating challenge appears on my radar. While waiting for friends to show up at Cuco’s, I wandered by Neighbor’s Deli as I was pacing down the sidewalk looking for somewhere to sit. A friend had mentioned Neighbors to me a year ago. I added it to a very long to eat list I have on my laptop and it promptly forgotten. As I approached Neighbors Deli the images of Spock and Kirk on the window beckoned me inside to take a peek. I observed a large menu of appealing sandwiches. I looked for a carry out menu but could not find one. One of the owners was behind the counter working. He noticed me mulling about. After a bit of banter he told me he was out of carry out menus but he would make a copy of their catering menu if I did not mind waiting a bit. I did not mind waiting at all. I was in a holding pattern anyway.

As the menu was being handed to me, I saw a sign about a Monolith sandwich. Hmm. I read about it and the long list of ingredients piled onto it. Then I spied the words that locked in a return trip: 4 and 1/2 pound sandwich, eat in 20 minutes and 11 seconds to get it for free. FREE. Large sandwich. Hmm, OK, yes. This reminded me of the Dagwood Challenge (I am a three time winner? of this). The Dagwood is 2 1/2 pounds of meat….that is hard to eat. The Monolith was almost twice the size. This seemed foolish. Yep I was in, but just for research purposes I told myself.

The following week I came in at lunch time. I ordered the Monolith without significant hesitation. The deli men were impressed. Very impressed. I was asked if I knew about the challenge and if I was going to finish it. My responses were yes and no. While waiting for the sandwich making to begin I started to think maybe I can finish this. I asked if I could substitute additional meat for the tomato and onion layers (I don’t like these in raw form). I was told, with no uncertainty, “NO, we serve this sandwich exactly as it is, no substitutions.” “Well, it was worth asking, that being the case, I will not finish the sandwich, I’ll just take some photos.”

I watched the sandwich creation process. It took at least 15 minutes to assemble. I was taken to my assigned table (the staff sets a timer and watches the sandwich eating so there is no cheating and only one table is suitable for this task). I snapped some photos, rubbed my belly once and said I was ready to begin. “Oh, hold on, wait, um, can I cut this in half first.” I wanted a cross-section photo and I wanted a chance to eat at least one half of this monstrosity, Monolith. I was given a knife for slicing. My cutting skills were so good I was offered a job on the spot (based on the fact I could cut a straight line through the Monolith without assistance or a power tool).((I may take them up on the offer, simple repetitive work with lots of social interaction seems really appealing at the moment.)) Cutting completed, I gave the OK to begin.

This is what I ate and what I had to cut through:

Bread
Swiss cheese
Corned Beef (5 oz)
Pastrami (5 oz)
Horseradish
Onion
Pickle
Cole Slaw
Bread
Cheddar cheese
Roast Beef (5 oz)
Lettuce
Tomato
Spicy Mustard
Bread
Jalapenos
Pepperjack Cheese
Smoked Ham (5 oz)
Turkey (5 oz)
Lettuce
Tomato
Oregano
Mayonnaise
bacon
Bread

Again, I had stated that I was not going to finish the sandwich. However, I got off to a great start. The Neighbors crew and customers were getting excited….”He’s gonna do it”. I was eating at a very fast pace. The bread and the various components were really good. I picked off the tomatoes and onions and dissected the sandwich into smaller sandwiches. At the ten minute mark the first half was but a fond and filling memory, I had eaten 65% of the mandatory potato salad side and I had a decent start on the second half of this now just very large sandwich. I had gone mano y mano with the Monolith and had exceeded everyone’s expectations so far, including my own.

The sandwich crafter was impressed with my efforts. He said, “you are doing great!”, “tell you what, you can skip the tomatoes……..keep going”. Even with ten minutes left I told him I was not going to finish the sandwich. I took a rest for a minute then started picking at the other half (after we took a moment to measure the remaining sandwich – 7 1/2 inches and about two pounds). At the five-minute mark I was doing pretty well. If I ate very fast and pushed myself and my belly to points unknown I could have finished it. I was fairly sure I would be sick the rest of the day if I pushed on so with 24% of the sandwich left I threw in the napkin at the three-minute mark.

Some may have looked at this as a failure. I looked at this as a victory – I chose not to be an absolute glutton. It also turned out I did really well. I am one of twelve people attempting the Monolith challenge. Only one person finished the sandwich to date. Of the remaining eleven, the Neighbors boys guessed I came in second or third for total consumption. Not bad for not trying.

Before I walked out of the door I was given a handshake, an eleven cent discount on my sandwich and a Neighbors T-Shirt even though I did not complete the challenge. The guys at Neighbors have class. I will be back for some regular sandwiches. Someday in the next year I will go back and eat the whole sandwich. I know I can do it. I just need someone to drive me home after and a cold floor to hibernate on.

Neighbor’s Deli
2142 Henderson Rd
Northwest Columbus / Upper Arlington
614.459.0188

Oh, no.

Neighbor’s Deli on Urbanspoon

Posted in culinary misadventure, sandwiches | Tagged: , | 10 Comments »

Gourmand, Interrupted: Prologue

Posted by CMH Gourmand on August 30, 2011

There was a season of the show Dallas that was so bad, the writers decided to write it off by having a killed off character from the bad season walk out of the shower at the beginning of the following season to indicate the previous season was a dream. A dream – that was a stretch. If I could rewrite August for myself, I might do the same. I may share more down the road or it may be the longest of chapters in my memoirs after the “What in the hell am I doing in Honduras and how do I survive the next 12 hours” chapter.

This blog now returns to its regularly scheduled content….currently in progress. Expect something tomorrow.

Posted in food | Leave a Comment »

Fifth Year Anniversary: A Pause in Content

Posted by CMH Gourmand on August 8, 2011

I’m taking a break from CMH Gourmand for the dog days of August. I will pop up on Twitter on occasion.

Preview of a coming attraction?

This month marks five years of eating. In the past year I have enjoyed some great connections. Dave and Roger at Latitude 41, Matt Barbee with Rockmill Brewery, a trip to the Clintonville Beer Shack. All of my Slow Food Friends. I especially thank @Twixlen and @MollyKurth for extensive assistance with donut research.

Posted in Columbus | 4 Comments »

Casa di Pizza: The Best Ribs for the Buck

Posted by CMH Gourmand on July 18, 2011

I found out about Casa di Pizza from my dental hygienist. Over several conversations with her between spitting and mumbling in a dental chair I trusted she would only give me a good tip. When she highlighted the ribs at a pizza place I was intrigued but more than a little skeptical.

Casa di Pizza is a carry out well off the beaten path. It has an innovative service window connecting to a bar next door for constant food shuttling. The menu is more progressive than would be imagined. Beverages include Hanks Sodas and Blenheim Ginger Ale. There are three pizza sauces: Red, Creamy Alfredo and Roasted Garlic. Pizza choices include The Defibrillator, appropriately named since it is piled with pepperoni, bacon, ham, Italian Sausage and salami. For the less heart-attack inclined there is the Double Double (two layers of cheese and two layers of pepperoni) and the Chicken Cordon Bleu (Alfredo Sauce, chicken, provolone, ham and Swiss Cheese). If you are undecided you might order all fourteen toppings on the Kitchen Sink. The most unexpected combination is Ziggy’s Steakhouse mixing rib eye, steak sauce, mushrooms and hand cut fries. Speaking of the fries they are near perfect, especially if you like them state fair style, balancing just enough grease with the right proportion of potato.

Enough foreplay, it is time to cut to the chase. The ribs. The ribs are incredible. Start with the Casa Teaser Sampler of four ribs. It will make you a believer. The ribs are not technically BBQ based on how they are cooked but who cares. They are cooked in the pizza oven but I am not sure of the other special preparations for the racks and I did not want to pry. The sauce balances sweet and tangy with a stick to everything thickness that somehow does not adhere to your body parts. No wetnaps are needed. You are most likely to eat the ribs with a fork and knife or your fingers. The meat falls off the bone by the touch or a gentle breeze leaving behind a barren, white rib bone which looks like a fossil. The bones are bare – they seem to be a delivery device for the meat – nothing sticks to the bone so there is no work involved in consumption. This seems like cheating.

Are the best ribs I have ever had…..no. However these are the best value and most instantly rewarding. Considering the price, consistency, ease of eating and hours of accessibility of Casa di Pizza ribs I would almost choose over Ray Ray’s if Casa di Pizza was closer. When a pizza place nails ribs, it is worth the effort. Do you recall that I mentioned there is a bar next door? As an added bonus I will provide this tricky tip. If you can’t convince your significant other eater of the need to go to Casa di Pizza, pretend that you want to do something educational. Visit the Campbell Memorial Park just north on McKinley. The Shrum Indian Mound located there would serve as an acceptable picnic site for rib or pizza consumption.

Casa di Pizza
2986 McKinley Ave
Located in the strange netherworld between Grandview, San Margherita, Hilliard and a quarry
614.586.1342

Casa di Pizza on Urbanspoon

Posted in BBQ, pizza | Tagged: | 4 Comments »

The Angry Baker – (CLOSED)

Posted by CMH Gourmand on July 13, 2011

The Angry Baker is anything but angry. Friendly and engaging, Vickie Hink made her way to Columbus to pursue a culinary path. Along the way she moved to Olde Town East and shifted her focus to baking. Shortly after Yellow Brick Pizza opened she walked by the space she now bakes in and decided it would be the perfect spot for her own bakery. This up and coming Olde Town culinary block will soon be joined by a tavern serving Ohio beers and sandwiches with Angry Baker buns. This is an exciting time to live in the area and certainly something to be happy about.

Vicki gets up at 4 am to bake a variety of breads including Brioche. The day starts with breakfast, which is served all day. The crowd pleaser is the Egg Sandwich featuring a fried egg with Bluejacket Dairy Ludlow cheese on a Bacon, Swiss & Chive Scone. Lunch and later includes soups, salads, sandwiches and (vegan) desserts. Many of the ingredients are Ohio Proud such as: Sharp White Cheddar (L.W. Randal’s, Warsaw), Mayfield Havarti (Orwell), Turkey from Cooper Farms (St. Henry), Eggs laid at Hillandale Farms (Croton) and oats, flour, bran, honey, maple syrup – Stutzman Farms (Millersburg).

I sampled The Turkey sandwich piled with cucumber, alfalfa sprouts, dijon, brie, tomato
on Brioche served with a side salad. The sandwich was hearty and tasty. I would get it again. I might get two.

In the dessert category I tried the Blueberry scone (rated 10 out of 10 on the scale of perfect sconeness), the vegan chocolate blueberry brownie (dense, tasted of chocolate without blocking the blueberry flavor) and after seeing the neighboring couple take one bite then sigh with pure bliss – a chocolate eclair (the yellow custard had flavor, richness and thickness with the dough and chocolate complimenting the filling with balance). Did I like the dessert? My run-on description should attest to my feelings on the matter.


The space is small with a tiny table and bar counter seating six or so. There is a table outside as well. Most of the orders are to go. If you have time, score a seat at the counter to watch Vicki construct sandwiches with speed and grace at an incredible pace without breaking a sweat. Placed under the plastic countertop are copies of recipes and cooking notes which creates the feeling of being in Grandma’s kitchen. This practical decor is integrated with the rest of the urban folk style art throughout the space. The highlight of the art (all by the same designer) is the bathroom mural.

If you bake it or pour it, they will come and that is what is happening in Olde Town East. A bustling culinary block is building a better community.

The Angry Baker
891 Oak St
Olde Town East
614.947.0976

(CLOSED SUMMER 2019)

The Angry Baker on Urbanspoon

Posted in breakfast, desserts, restaurants, sandwiches | Tagged: | 2 Comments »

Serendipity Ice Cream and Coffee House

Posted by CMH Gourmand on July 7, 2011


I found a place that serves both coffee and ice cream, its name is Serendipity and that is how I found it. I was roaming around Westerville and just happened to walk by the place after eating. I saw Ice cream and coffee together in one place and knew I had to go in. Serendipity is located in an old house on East College Ave in downtown Westerville. It blends in with the neighborhood including the gazebo style dual swing in the front yard – it is great for rocking in.

In the inside – there is an ice cream counter dipping Ashby’s ice cream, a full service coffee shop and a small selection of baked goods, sandwiches, paninis and other foods.

Ice Cream and coffee were made for each other which makes Serendipity special. What makes it extra special is the cozy college coffee house feel it creates. The house is full of comfortable couches and chairs, plenty of reading material, games, free Wi-Fi, superior bathrooms and anything else you would need to camp out for one to twelve hours. I was too full to sample anything other than the friendly service but I know I will be back very soon.

Serendipity Ice Cream and Coffee House
33 East College Ave
Westerville
614.392.2352

Posted in desserts, ice cream | Tagged: | Leave a Comment »

A Radio Show and Slight Summer Siesta

Posted by CMH Gourmand on June 30, 2011

Posts will be sporadic this summer. In exchange for less written content you will now get more audio Gourmand. Starting July 2nd, listen to FoodCast on WCBE. I share the table with great talent: Andy Dehus, Johnny DiLoretto and Bethia Woolf. Behind the scenes taking care of recording and making sound decisions (as well as deleting my bloopers) is the magnificent Mike Beaumont. Ten episodes are complete. Each covers a theme starting with BBQ.

You can keep track on Facebook as well.

Posted in food | Tagged: | Leave a Comment »