Archive for the ‘restaurants’ Category

Wurst und Bier

Posted by CMH Gourmand on September 5, 2012

I feared the worst.

I first became aware of Wurst & Bier on Columbus Underground. The first post seemed a bit suspect. A second post seemed more authentic and honest. Note to Restaurant and Social Media consultants (like myself) using Columbus Underground – study these two posts and do a compare and contrast in reaction.

The second point of hesitation was the location which is the Crosswoods office complex at SR 23 and I-270. This is probably the most poorly managed strip mall in the Central Ohio region. In a previous post I described the area as densely packed with apartments, office buildings, condominiums and not so long ago, six steakhouses in a quarter-mile area. Somehow this retail center has become beaten down with numerous failed restaurants, unpatched potholes and thousands of cars driving by in search of an Applebee’s. Nothing has changed, if anything the area continues a death spiral – even Panera left.

I used to work in the area, so when I drive by the old wage slave factory, a dysfunctional hate rises up in me as I shake my fist at my former employer and say “Suck It ____”. So for my own emotional well-being I stay away from this suburban hell.

OK, catharsis aside, there were more misgivings. The WB logo is horrible and cheesy. If I was to classify the artwork the first thoughts that come to mind are honky gnome meets smurf. My initial thought was that this place was a “Schmidt’s Light”. I decided to defer inspection.

However, this is a Biergarten baby! Having spent time in Germany, and specifically the Hofbraeuhaus, I think that Columbus could stand with a good Biergarten. The beer list looked inviting with plenty of German brews on tap. Since the place remained open after a few months of operation, I decided an exploratory mission was in order.

I arranged the services of the Dining Duder as a co-pilot and we made our pilgrimage for pilsner. The moment we walked into the former BW-3 location, memories of the dreaded sports bar of days gone by filled my mind. Comparing the immediate vibe of the former tenant to the atmosphere of the new upstart Wurst & Bier my diagnosis was “This does not suck”. One fear was that the place would be staffed with unauthentically garbed Bavarian-wannbe servers in the theme of Whore & Wurst (this place is a sports bar so it was a possibility). It was not themed in schtick – the black-shirted servers treat this as a bar that serves wurst so they don’t try to act like experts on the cuisine or culture. Our server was proud that she could correctly pronounce one of the items on the menu (one more than me) and for that I would say she earned the Prost on the back of her shirt. I also need to mention that on an off-peak Wednesday night, the restaurant has an 80-odd-year-old accordion player on site blazing away on his instrument. This mild-mannered, energizer bunny style octogenarian Bavarian deserves excessive tips due to his dedication.

The Dining Duder and I promptly zeroed in on the bier part of the evening. Although there were many beers we wanted to try we opted for the novelty of the Gaffel Koelsch wheel of 11 (a wheel of 11 .2 liter glasses of beer). Since these cute little bier tasting glasses are on a moving wheel and the alcohol content seems to sneak up on consumers, the casualty rate for the glasses has been higher than the normal collateral damage of the bar trade. Since the bar could only offer ten glasses for the wheel – we were given two similar glasses to make up for our impaired authentic experience and give us an even dozen. To that I say Prost!

Time to dine. The menu is not overwhelming in size but there are some difficult decisions to be made. My suggestion for your first visit is to go with a group of five or more people so you can fully investigate the selections. German food was made for one purpose…to facilitate the consumption of beer. It is starchy, maintains a non diverse rainbow of white, brown and dark yellow and is true meat und potatoes fare. Granted, there is an occasional earth toned pickle mixed into a dish but vegetables are for the French and girly men.

We started with the Obazda: the traditional Bavarian bar food of Brie mixed with cream cheese, butter, onions and some mystery seasonings served with a large, freshly baked pretzel paired with Bavarian mustard. On a score of 10 – we would place Obazda at 9.7 on the bar food scale. It was the perfect pairing for beer drinking.

Moving right along…time for the wurst. The Dining Duder ordered Currywurst (the popular street food of Germany). Excuse me please, Vas ist Currywurst you ask? You choose one from a wide selection of sausages und wursts which the kitchen slices up and covers it with a magical sauce and curry powder. Simple, flavorful and a little spicy. This is like eating a sponge to soak up alcohol but more tasty.

I opted to go traditional in honor of my own German heritage with a choice of two wursts (one traditional, one spicy), mashed potatoes and sauerkraut. This met my expectations and was on par with my meals in Munich and Frankfurt long ago.

I also decided to draft the Dining Duder into some critical research. There are two potato salads on the menu. I was determined to try both. Munich Style Potato Salad is a mix of vinegar, oil, onions, pickles and mustard. Berlin Style is mustard, potatoes and pickles. Berlin won. Both salads looks similar, used the same potatoes and pickles but the simplicity of the Berlin style won me over. This reminded me of the potato salad of my youth made by my grandmother.

As we finished our meal we noticed that the table across from us had just ordered a beer tower (looks a lot like a giant beer bong) but we decided to save that for our next visit and a different beer. Our server checked in to see if we were interested in dessert. When the Duder and I declined, all three of us snorted, since our served pointed out that she was proud of us for not eating until we barfed….and we had thought that might happen at one point. Good sense reigned for the evening. We expected the worst and got better than we expected. We will be back.

Don’t fear the wurst. CMH Gourmand tested, Dining Duder approved.

A final note. When it comes down to it 21% of the Barvarian food experience is about mustard, Wurst und Bier serves several, authentic, real deal, German mustards. That my friends is significant and makes up for any misgivings I had before I walked through the door. In the words of Arnold Schwarzenegger, “A’ll bee Baacck.”

W&B aka Wurst Und Bier
110 Hutchinson Ave
Crosswoods
Columbus (Suburban Hell)
614.436.2437

Posted in beer, restaurants | Tagged: Wurst und Bier | 5 Comments »

Quick Byte: Hungarian Night at Explorers Club

Posted by CMH Gourmand on June 26, 2012

Far be it for the Explorer’s Club is get stagnant and do the same thing for too long. The menu continues to be tweaked here and there. The specials board have a broad rotation and they continue to spring new spins on Margarita’s on me. The newest experiment is Hungarian Night. On the second Wednesday of each month, the daily specials are replaced by a Hungarian menu. Each night will offer a three course meal selected from favorite Hungarian recipes for a fixed price.

The inspiration is three-fold: Chef Dan has some ethnic Cleveland roots, Explorer’s Club lies in close proximity to Hungarian Village (really) and an ode to Hungary fuels the explorers need to be different and discover. Looking at the core comfort food roots of the Explorer’s Club Menu, Hungarian is both a stretch and a no brainer. It is a bit of a reach since the Hungarian flavors lack overlap with the Explorer’s Club mostly funkadelic fusion flavors and it is a no brainer because no one else is doing it. The menu will vary each month, but this is what I tried.

Meggyleves (Chilled Sour Cherry Soup)

Chicken Paprikash with dumplings (The dumplings were really good in a spatzlesque manner supported by the chicken, tender to the bone and full of flavor)

Palacsinta (Raspberry Walnut Crepes)

If this Hungarian is not what you hanker for, have your dining companion du jour order it so you can sample and them engulf a Grilled Mac & Cheese Sandwich with Bacon and a fried egg….my current comfort food good to meal.

Explorer’s Club has also been taking it to the streets in cart form (hmm, wonder who pitched that to them?) with regular appearances at the Hal and Al’s Food Truck and Cart Fest. The next one is July 1st.

Explorer’s Club
1586 South High Street
Merion Village / Hungarian Village / Short South Side
614.725.0155

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SKY Gourmand: Zinc….Why you should add it to your diet.

Posted by CMH Gourmand on June 5, 2012

Located one half block from the shores of Lake Erie, Zinc Brasserie has made a name for itself with north coast culinary hipsters, tourists, residents and food enthusiasts. Reading the numerous very positive reviews on every rating tool I can find, each reads about the same. (Paraphrased) – “I can’t believe there is a place like this in Sandusky, the French styled menu exceeded my expectations, I really loved the Beet Salad”. On the surface, I would say exactly the same thing. Digging deeper, I will write a bit more.

First, non residents of Columbus often say “I can’t believe I found something like this in Columbus, Ohio”. A good restaurant can be anywhere and it can serve anything. The basics are the same – food, service, atmosphere and exceeding expectations in each of the previous categories. Zinc Brasserie does well in all of these areas.

We are all prone to discount small cities and towns as not being urbane enough to spawn a good restaurant. I wonder why that is? Jackson Hole boasts several great restaurants due to the influx of people passing through to enjoy the area. It is possible for a good or great restaurant to call any locale home, many tend to write off fly over country or any place with only one zip code. Granted the probability is overwhelming but it is there. In retrospect, we should expect a restaurant like this in Sandusky, maybe a few of them. The north coast of Ohio offers a bounty of fresh and local produce, great purveyors, fish and The Chef’s Garden is just a corn hole toss away in nearby Huron (I spied a few familiar looking micro greens on my plate). Sandusky is no Metropolis but it does have a sizable population and a flood of visitors flowing through six to eight months per year. The city hosts one of nearly every restaurant chain known to man as well as several independent restaurants. My philosophy is “if you cook well, they will come”. And come they do, to downtown Sandusky. Cleveland is not so far away. In fact, Zinc Brasserie is listed among the Cleveland Independents, a group of some of the best restaurants in the greater Cleveland area. Cleveland is close enough for Zinc to see where the culinary bar is raised to. Chef Cesare Avallone and his wife Sarah saw the bar then jumped over it.

Speaking of bars, Zinc sports a good one. The counter area looks like a classic bar from the early 20th century. While the bar presents well, it is not a case of form over substance. The drink menu features well crafted cocktails, a deep wine list and a satisfactory selection of beers including some north coast all-stars. Speaking of bars again, located across the street at 145 Columbus Ave is the Avallone’s second venture Crush Wine Bar. I would link the website but it is pretty obnoxious (note to web designers, music on a restaurant web site is a major fail in the world of social media, or any media for that matter). I scouted out Crush status post Zinc. It serves a smaller tapas style menu, adds more cocktails and wines that Zinc can’t find room for and serves as a pre or post destination for those dining across the street. Speaking of additional venture…. the Avallone’s are opening a third restaurant in Sandusky this summer. It is called Dockside Cafe. It sits right on the lake and is accessible by foot, bike, car or boat.

Now back to Zinc. The space is small, cozy (at some tables cramped) and does have an old and French bistro feel. The menu reflects the current season and also changes frequently due to a focus of local and in farm fresh ingredients. I could wax on about my specific entrees and how good each dish was….but most likely my meal no longer exists with the same combination of ingredients so I will just engage in some food blog porn below (I hope I am not swatted by a pretentious bear). ((The first person to guess what I am alluding to in the previous sentence gets a prize of some manner)). A few dining notes: there are good reasons why so many reviews include the word beet; Zinc Brasserie does a great job with presentation but not to the detriment of anything in the menu, especially those dishes featuring meat; and dessert…do it.

Zinc Brasserie

142 Columbus Avenue • Sandusky, OH • 419.502.9462

Crush Wine Bar
145 Columbus Ave.
Sandusky
419.502.WINE

Posted in cocktails, Ohio, restaurants, Road Trip, Sky Gourmand | 1 Comment »

Explorer’s Club: Sunday Suppers & New Voyages of Discovery

Posted by CMH Gourmand on March 12, 2012

(Sorry kids – this was cancelled after about 5 weeks….it did not quite catch on)

To the best of my recollection, Lost Planet Pizza and Pasta passed away in 2000 and was repurposed as Rickys Galaxy until August of 2001. In many ways Lost Planet never fully eclipsed. The eclectic fusion pastas were the kissing cousins of the Galaxy Cafe and Starliner Diner. Starliner never went away and recipes from Lost Planet found their way into the kitchen of Betty’s with a few strands of culinary DNA remaining in a dish or two. Lost Planet had a great pizza and pasta buffet for lunch time which I would enjoy on a day off as often as possible. Several buffet runs preserved the memory of these meals for a lifetime.

When the Explorer’s Club came back into my universe this past October, I had only hoped to see a few of the Galaxy Cafe recipes return, not wanting to be greedy and hope for everything I wanted.
During a radio interview with the dynamic duo of Barnes and Studer they mentioned starting a Sunday Supper series of pizza and pastas. Pitter. Patter. Pitter. YES!

I was in Savannah during opening night. The pipes decided to burst for the second Sunday of the Series. So after waiting twelve years, nothing was going to stop me from the third edition of Sunday Supper at The Explorer’s Club.

Was it everything I hoped for and dreamed of for a dozen years. The pastas, yes and the pizzas no. However, the pizzas are still good, they just seem to be lacking something from days of yore – maybe a bit of crispness or a more madcap array of toppings. It was good. So go, I forgot to take any photos of my meal until the end.

Forgive the artistic laziness but do appreciate the art of the soft sell as I proceed to post the menu for your review.

The Explorer’s Club is holding it’s own in Merion Village and is working to be an anchor in the community. If you have a community group in the area, give them a call, they might be able to provide some meeting space in the party room. A patio is due to debut in a few weeks. A series of beer and wine dinners are in store for the third Thursday of each month.

On March 15th, there will be a Great Lakes Beer tasting with six beers, lots of appetizers and a pint glass for the cost of $15. Expect some more events and special dinners as the summer progresses.

I think the food and commitment to the community are enough to warrant an expedition to the Explorer’s Club but if you need an extra incentive – how about supporting the producers they do by eating local outside of your locality. See some of the vendors The Explorer’s Club supports listed below.

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The Deepwood Dagwood for Dine Originals Week

Posted by CMH Gourmand on March 8, 2012

Here is the thing. A good number of people like Deepwood. Unfortunately it seems they never show up at the same time. Well… with the exception of my lunch this past Wednesday. I arrived during what may have been a (Columbus) Alive and Crave afternoon pow-wow / retreat. Other than us, Deepwood was Deadwood. Crickets. Tumbleweeds. Spagetti western music was faintly playing in my subconscious.

I would describe Deepwood as subdued. Unlike Cheers, where everyone knows your name when you walk in the door, at Deepwood, you will receive a pleasant, faint smile and nice service. Subdued. I like it. It aids the digestion. It is relaxing.

The is Dine Originals Restaurant Week, a time for many of our local independent restaurants to shine and show off the best they can do to lure in new customers and shake things up for loyal regulars. Looking for a deal of deals, the various $10 menus are what I target. My old standby was the Pistacia Vera sampler but that has been off the rotation for the last two cycles (Anne and Spencer….think about the children, they need more than Shirred eggs).

I have always sought out the value of the Deepwood lunch but unless you work downtown and actually know where Deepwood is (that was the quiz part of the post) this special experience is limited to a few. If you are reading this early Friday morning, you still have some time to call in sick and give this menu a shot. For the rest of you who can never have this experience, allow me to share.

Here is the menu for $10.

Your choice of any of our sodas

The Deepwood-Our version of the Classic & Colossal Dagwood

Meats, Cheeses and Condiments Layered between House-Made Pepper Jack Bread, House-Made Corned Beef, Tasso Ham and Mortadella Schmear, Roasted Turkey. House-Made Mozzarella, Smoked Gouda. Roasted Tomato, Pickled Peppers, Chef’s Garden Leaf Arugula, Mustard Aioli, Red Onion Jam, Fried Olive Skewer. House-Made Potato Chips

Tasting of Signature Petite Sandwiches

New England Lobster Roll with Hand Cut-Fries, House-Made Pastrami with Potato Chips, Lentil Patty with Deepwood Tavern Pickled Vegetables

and

Lemon Meringue Pie

At this point regular readers of CMH Gourmand know what happened. Fearing the Sophie’s Choice of having to decide between choices for this rare lunchtime visit, I played it safe and got both.

The Verdict? Reread the menu above. The size of the description matches the quality and satifisfaction of the Deepwood Dagwood. What a good sandwich! It was easily the winner of the two choices. Exceptional cuts of meat, good flavor. The chips were incredibly good with some house made ketchup I reallocated from the French Fries. Hard to see in the photograph but the mini battered and fried olives of the skewer were really well executed. I am sure they elicit a faint, subdued smile in the backroom. If you have to choose go with the Dagwood.

The Petite Sandwiches are worth the price. Chef Brian definitely had a fun time creating both offerings but I was not as emotionally satisfied after the signature sandwiches. I will state a case for the lentil burger patty sample as better than the hallowed Northstar Veggie burger patty. Really. Serious. The fries are pretty close to perfect. Keep frying Deepwood, you do it well.

As for the pie, if by pie, one means a mini biscuit sized puff of homemade goodness on a stick….OK, but let’s call this a pie pop on the next online menu.

If you feel a little cheated after reading this, knowing that you will not have such an experience for this Dine Originals Week, then I give you this task. Go to Deepwood this month and tell the staff you would like them to serve lunch on a Saturday for the next Dine Originals Week.

If you have missed out on Deepwood, give them a shot. The beer selection, house crafted cocktails and entrees are all well executed. Maybe those that are inclined, could give up not going to Deepwood for Lent.

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89 Fish, One Stuffed Pork Loin and a side of Disclaimer

Posted by CMH Gourmand on February 26, 2012

There are rules for food writing. There is an unwritten law for most food bloggers in Columbus. Violation of the law leads to a sideways look as well as concern and discussion about breaking the code. I follow the code within the realm of reason. A review can not be bought, bartered, traded or guilted. I say no all the time to free offers, free food and perks. On occasion, I say yes.

I will say yes to write about something I believe in or something I already like or planned to consume. In my online history I have (with a noted disclaimer) written about The Chef’s Garden, Cleveland, Rogue Root Beer and Dine Originals. At the present I have overdue debts to Sandusky and Huron Ohio as well as Pittsburgh.

In the case of 89 Fish I am breaking several of my other rules including.

“Don’t write about a place that has not been open for at least one month, ideally two.”

“Don’t write about restaurants that base their menu in fish (since I am allergic to fish).

I am a food writer (with a blog vs. a blogger that writes) that as a general rule does not write reviews. Reviews are for critics under the auspices of being objective in a field that is subjective on the best of days. My opinion has been that no one needs my help finding a bad place. I write about things I like because it is much more enjoyable and rewarding that ripping something apart.

I get offers like the one below and most often I say no.

We are excited to announce the opening of 89 Fish & Grill, conveniently located in the Arena District at 89 E. Nationwide Blvd.

Because you know what’s new in Columbus and where to find all of the good eats, we would like to cordially invite you to join us for dinner as a part of our debut into Columbus restaurant society.

89 Fish & Grill was created to offer an elegant experience in a casual atmosphere with a seasonal menu defined by the modern way of eating: fresh, local and sustainable. The seafood is flown in fresh daily and prepared with seasonal Ohio ingredients. The natural deep wood and picturesque bar has house-made specialty cocktails and an extensive wine list.

Columbus needed a new way to experience what’s fresh and 89 offers a literal adventure into great food, without driving to the suburbs. The fish may not be local, but we are.

Here are the details:
· Join us for dinner either Tuesday, February 21 or Wednesday, February 22, 2012
· Dinner is served 5-10 p.m.
· Reserve* your table by emailing Cathlin A**** at cathlin@*******.com
· Your meal is on us (up to 2 people and $100.00 and does not include alcohol)

Your review of our restaurant and dining experience would be greatly appreciated as we are eager to celebrate this amazing gathering space and fresh food with others.

We also encourage you to join our online community. Exclusive specials will be run through check-ins on Foursquare, Twitter re-tweets and more. Please visit http://www.89fishandgrill.com.

*Must make reservations or meal will not be complimentary.

So as I said, I typically say no, but I said yes. Here is why.

The request is well written and provides some background. It asks for a review but does not expect one. It provides guidelines and asks for a reservation. It was handled very professionally and I was given a budget but no guidelines.

More importantly, as someone allergic to fish – I never rush out to a fish restaurant so it could have been years before I felt the need to check out 89 Fish. Many of the places I write about involve some type of culinary risk – but in the case of fish, I am not willing to risk my own money. My mission – find something on the menu that I could eat and would enjoy. In my experience most fish based restaurants offer a chicken dish, pasta dish and a burger and leave it at that. Did this place have the gumption to break that mold?

Two other reasons why I said yes. This is a locally owned restaurant taking a risk on downtown. Although others are again opening up shop downtown – the masses have not started to follow yet, so I have to admire a restaurant rolling the dice in this economy.

The front of the house is experienced. General Manager Mary Beth Zakany worked for Max and Erma’s in the early days (with Cameron Mitchell), then the 55 Group (with Cameron Mitchell) and them for Cameron Mitchell Restaurants for fifteen years. Chef John Beck in the back of the house worked for RJ Snappers. Owner Richard Stopper is a veteran of the 55 Group and RJ Snappers. To a large section of pre 1995 Columbus, the most important item to mention at this point is that yes – the restaurant does serve 55 salad dressing.

Other things I liked before I crossed the door. The menu features Ohio raised Chicken and Pork. Cincinnati goat cheese and a house beer crafted in Zanesville. The menu denotes Vegan, Halal, Kosher and Gluten Free selections (however Straightedge Hippy is not noted). The website is simple and music free.

Cutting to the chase. The pork loin. As described: Dried Fruit Stuffed Pork Tenderloin: Ohio pork stuffed with figs, apricots,cranberries, golden raisins and sage, sherry-bacon vinaigrette. It was perfectly cooked – just a hint of pink in the middle, tender and juicy, easy to cut but not soft texture with a combination of melt in your mouth and slight resistance to the bit at the same time. The flavor of the fruit was there when I wanted it but very muted. The potatoes were whipped in the style of my MCL memories. It was a very good dish for the $19.00 and a suitable entrée for a non fish eater. I would go back for that. So would my designated diner.

The place is new and is working out kinks. My server might have been a bit less enthusiastic and could have had a bit more knowledge on the menu. All of these things will right themselves in time. Mary Beth was a pleasure to speak with and very well versed in what the house wants to bring to the table. In the short-term, I would ask that they add more Ohio and local beers to showcase to the three hotels filled with schools of visitors surrounding 89 Fish.

Thanks for the free meal and the opportunity. I don’t mind breaking my rules for this pork loin.

89 Fish & Grill
89 E Nationwide Blvd.
Downtown / Arena District

614.586.4585

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Explorers Club: My First Expeditions

Posted by CMH Gourmand on October 23, 2011

I am pleased. I am happy. Darn it, I might even use the word ecstatic! I have waited ten years and two months for this sign.

So what is the big deal? The Explorer’s Club is open. Yes, it is a restaurant. Ricky Barnes is cooking in the kitchen and Tracy Studer is guiding the front of the house. If you don’t recognize these names then you probably did not dine out in Columbus from the early 1990’s to 2001 (The Galaxy Cafe, Lost Planet Pizza and Pasta, Ricky’s Galaxy). Ricky and Tracy describe the Explorer’s Club as the Galaxy grown up. A few of the dishes and all of the flavors of Galaxies past are on the menu. The menu, decor and focus on service reflect changes in Tracy, Ricky and the rest of us during the last decade.

So a blast from the past has returned. Many eaters from the Columbus dining scene of old have fond memories of Ricky’s culinary accomplishments. Another element adding to the bigness of the deal is the location. I have discussed growing downtown dining and why this is important to the city. A good restaurant can be a foundation or launching point for a community (for example Yellow Brick Pizza and Angry Baker in Olde Town East). The Explorer’s Club is located on South High in Merion Village. The plucky neighborhood has limited eating options within their community, so a successful restaurant with good food can be a vibrant asset to the area. A past effort in the space, Coyote Jane’s, was a horrible disappointment (Did I just write something negative? Yes, and readers know I never do that. I will say the food, service and, well, everything was memorable, but not because it was good).

So with all of this good karma swelling up I must admit I had some trepidation. This was like revisiting an old flame. Are things ever as good as we remember them? I changed, they changed. Was the awesomeness of the Galaxy just a fond memory I had built up over the years. What if I did not like it? More importantly, what if you don’t like it. I don’t know if I can deal with ~~the Galaxy imploding again~~ the Explorer’s Club closing it’s doors.

I visited during a dry run night and ate for free. I went the next two days for brunch and was happy to pay for meals just as good at a good value. The verdict: YES! wonderful, near perfect, exciting, tasty. The menu may have an aspect of nostalgia but the flavor is there and a explorers spirit of pushing the limits. Considering the Explorer’s Club was open just to test drive the menu, train new servers and cooks and for experimenting with a few ideas, the end result was spectacular. I typically don’t try out a new restaurant for at least a month after opening so they can work out any kinks and I can walk through the door with reasonable expectations. On paper the Explorer’s Club should not have had much of a chance to blow me away based on my fervent loyalty of the past. I am looking forward to what the Explorer’s Club can do with a more seasoned staff and a few weeks of menu enhancements. Changes are already in the works. A bar menu is in the process of development as well as a limited selection of cocktails.

The food and the music is impressively sourced locally when possible. Here is a list of some of the local purveyors used:

Used Kids Records (the genres of music mix well with the menu)
Growers First / Crimson Cup (Coffee and Tea)
Shagbark Seed and Mill Company (from my food first favorite Athens, Ohio)
Gerber cage free, organic vegetarian fed chicken
OSU Agricultural egg hormone and antibiotic free pork
Stutzman Farms (grains/flour)

Not local, but definitely reflective of the restaurant, is where the artwork is sourced from. Most of the prints are by Jeb Loy Nichols, Wales UK.

Nichol’s portraits of famous or infamous names you may have heard include: John Coltrane, Amelia Earhart, Hank Aaron, Wendell Berry, Miles Davis, Nina Simone, Harvey Milk and Woody Gutherie. All were pioneers in their fields and times. The tagline of the Explorers Club is Simple – Pioneering – Flavor. The Galaxy was a pioneer in Columbus dining in the day and today, Explorers Club has taken that spirit and refined it. Staking a claim in Merion Village could be pioneering as well, I hope others will follow to add to the spice of this neighborhood.

So after all of this historical and philosophic foreplay, it is time to focus on the food.

Dinner was my first experience (note a few menu items may change of get tweaked by the time you travel to the Explorer’s Club. The item I hoped to see the most was black bean hummus. It is on the menu and is now served with garlic citrus pizza bread (looks and tastes like the best pita bread I have ever had). The hummus is great. I do miss the giant pool of garlic sauce that topped the 1993 – 2001 version but since that causes significant “personal space” issues for me, I figure it was omitted for the safety of the general public.

I also ordered the chicken quesadilla with charred salsa and sour cream. The salsa packed some significant heat but paired with the cool sour cream accentuated the flavors of everything on the plate.

The winner of the dinner entrees selected was the beef brisket (with black beans, redskin potatoes and jalapeno slaw). The brisket fell apart with very light pressure from my fork. It has a complimentary mix of flavors in the broth to spice things up. My dining companion is not a fan of the jalapeno but she found the proportion of pepper to slaw to be perfect balance of heat and cool.

For dessert there was only one choice I could allow, another blast from my past, Mrs. Barnes Pumpkin Dessert (I recalled this being called Surpise). Oh, yes. This is no pumpkin pie. It is served with cream and fresh berries. It might best be described as a fusion of cake, pie and cheesecake. It is good, that is all that matters.

I woke up the following day and got some of the old gang together to go back from brunch (after college a group of six to ten of us were there almost every Saturday for one or two meals). Longtime readers know I have little interest in breakfast with very few exceptions, Explorers Club is on the short list. I liked my group meal so much I went back the next day solo to sample the only item I did not try the day before.

Another menu item I was ~~passionately~~, ~~desperately~~, pathetically hoping for was museli. This simple dish was the hallmark for all other museli experiences in my life, with the exception of a serving I had in Zug, Switzerland every subsequent museli left me wanting and musing about why Ricky would create something so good and take it away. The 2011 version is as good as any and quite photogenic.

Next was the Sophie’s Choice of toast: Cuban French Toast with fruit vs. Grilled Cinnamon Bread with fruit and cream. The Gourmand approach to problem solving goes something like this, “when in doubt, get both”. It was the right choice. Both get “best of show” in their classes. I can not advise you to pick one over the other. The crunchy, funnel cake like batter on the French Toast is borderline addictive. French or not, Cuban bread is the finest way to experience this dish. As for the Cinnamon Bread, the cream was great – I would love to see more on teh side next time.

(I mean really, how could you choose?)

All the breads are made in-house at Explorers Club. The bread is fresh, hearty and serves as a great base for many of the dishes or a compliment for dipping sauces on the side. One their best uses of bread is the Fried Egg sandwich served on Ciabatta with Muenster Cheese and Jalapeno slaw with redskin potatoes on the side. This is a bit messy to eat but who cares, it might be the best breakfast sandwich (non-traditional category) in town.

Love at first bite? In my case, they had me at OPEN. Trying to be objective, would I feel the same way about Explorers Club without the prior history? Yes. If anything my expectations and hopes may have made impressing me more difficult. Considering that more additions and improvements are in the works for the coming weeks, it is easy to believe their grade of A going to A+. The Explorer’s Club is worth exploring. I would suggest going for both a dinner and brunch to gauge the potential that is here.

I will be writing about the Explorers Club more for sure. I am interested in what the bar menu will have to offer as well as the variety of cocktails appearing behind the bar. Did I mention I was really happy?

The Explorer’s Club opens the doors to the world on October 28th, 2011.

Explorers Club
1586 S. High Street
Merion Village / South Side
614.725-0155
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Posted in CLOSED, Locally Sourced, restaurants, sandwiches, Vegetarian Friendly | Tagged: Explorers Club, Galaxy Cafe, Ricky Barnes | 13 Comments »

Harvest Pizzeria: Pizza + Patio = Pleasure

Posted by CMH Gourmand on September 16, 2011

Harvest Pizzeria opened in August and was greeted with immediate, over the top adoration. Is it deserved? I believe so. A true pizzeria has been the missing element in the German Village / Merion Village dining options for quite some time. Granted Planks and Hi Beck have very good pizzas, but a proper pizzeria….not so much.

Harvest Pizzeria is all that and a bowl of olives and maybe a crate of organic something. Owner Chris Crader is no stranger to the dining scene in Columbus. He has very good street credibility in numerous roles. It seems one of his first jobs was in a pizza shop. He combined all of his experience plus a desire to cook with some of what he grows on a one acre farm as well as a rooftop garden into Harvest. Add in a small brick building with the charm of a minimalist European Cafe mix with a welcoming patio and the end result is the slam dunk you may have read about elsewhere. The hype is right about Harvest Pizzeria.

The place has been packed on each visit I have made to Harvest. While all of the above is quite nice, the pressing question is “what about the food”. It is good. It is very good. The cocktails are well done with the house margarita being the winner so far. The wine selection is small and heavily focused on a small number of underappreciated Italian and European wines.

The tiny kitchen could serve the dining area with a light sweat but add in the patio and things get a bit tight for the kitchen staff. The wood/gas oven combination is in constant use and the cooks are in constant motion.

The starters/appetizers are simple with a twist. See the photos below.

Hudson Valley Foie Gras Tourchon with Malvasia grape must (the stuff in the dropper) and crostini

Olives with Cerignola, Castelvetrano, Giaraffa olives, Marcona almonds and fresh herbs

Among the several pizza combinations these three are my favorites: Spicy Yuma (Canal Junction Gouda, chorizo, jalapeno, corn, roasted red pepper, chipotle-spiked tomato sauce) Goat Cheese (with soppressata, caramelized onion, cherry tomato and garlic) and Ohio Bacon with fresh mozzarella, roasted red pepper, aleppo pepper flake and marjoram.

Two desserts take the cake. Butterscotch Budino (caramel sauce, creme fraiche, toasted hazelnuts, vanilla-scented Maldon sea salt) and Pie of the Day.

Harvest is worth a visit. Plan on waiting. Go while you can still enjoy the patio for the season.

495 S. 4th Street
German Village
614.824.1769
http://harvestpizzeria.com

Posted in pizza, restaurants | Tagged: Harvest Pizzeria | Leave a Comment »

Taken in by TAT Ristorante di Famiglia

Posted by CMH Gourmand on September 6, 2011

One thing leads to another. I was working on an article about Pizza. TAT was the first Columbus restaurant to serve pizza in 1929. As I was writing, I recalled I had not been to TAT since 2008. That is too long. I drive by their teaser sign on I-70 during the course of my adventures a couple of times per month. My recollection was Columbus Foodie did a very good write up of the place in early 2011. I wondered if I could find a different spin on the place. After finally going back, I decided I did not need to write anything new. The magic of TAT is the timeless nature of the place. The good elements of the restaurant can not be shared too many times.

The fourth generation of Corrova’s as well as members of the third and second generations are still working at TAT. Most family businesses struggle to make it past one lifespan. TAT did, so they must be doing several things right. Many of their servers and employees have been working at the restaurant for decades. Many of their customers have been dining there for decades too. Again, this is impressive. How does this happen? How is a community of owners, employees and customers created at a restaurant?

The secret to the business can be figured out over one Sunday afternoon meal. The current location opened in 1978, nothing has changed since then, in fact, the dining room could easily be from the 1950’s, it looks and feels like a time capsule. Consistency is the key here. Most of the customers are known by name and eating preferences. Three servers work on each half of the TAT and they know the menu, their tables and their customers. In my time there I was called honey eight to ten times and my shoulder was patted on at least twelve occasions. I felt like I was eating at some Italian grandmothers house and that I was the favored son for eating so much so well. I also give credit to TAT for only serving RC products, the PBR of the cola family.

TAT still makes a really good pizza. It is different from the 1929 version. The crust is medium in thickness, crunchy on the edges and chewy on the innards. TAT pizza also passes the next day cold pizza test. I opted for full sensory experience of the Sicilian Delight. Paul and Becke from Columbus Foodie do this spread better justice so take a look at what they had to say.

Here is what this ten course meal includes:

Glass of wine – choice of three types
Italian salad

Homemade soup choice: Wedding or Minestrone

Sicilian Bread (Toasted and drenched in Italian spices and cheese)
Spaghetti with meatball
Veal parmigiana

Meat filled Ravioli
Homemade Italian sausage
Manicotti with ricotta cheese

Spumoni ice cream

Yes, it was a lot. I did not try to finish it.

There is a lot to enjoy at TAT other than the food. The back hallway houses a mural depicting Transcontinental Air Transport, the first coast to coast airline (with some significant help from trains). The waitresses have many stories to tell if they have a free moment. Owner Jimmy Corrova checks in with as many customers as he can. On the Sunday I visited, it appeared that an African-American church or social event had just ended. Many elderly customers came in sporting great looking suits, dresses and hats. It felt like a cross between the Oscars and the 1950’s – there were top hats, perfectly shined shoes, you name it. It felt classy……I did not feel that way in my Commfest T-Shirt.

The sauces are slow-cooked and homemade. Egg Noodles are common, the ravioli appear to be made by hand and there are countless other touches you hope for in an old school, family friendly Italian restaurant. Come for the food, enjoy the atmosphere, appreciate the service and take in a serving of history. TAT serves a full sensory experience, the food is just a portion of the whole.

1210 South James Road
(corner of James and Livingston)
Eastside
614.236.1392
www.tatitalian.com
(TAT has their own jingle / theme song – sing along when you visit the webpage)

Posted in pizza, restaurants | Tagged: TAT, TAT Ristorante di Famiglia | 1 Comment »

The Angry Baker – (CLOSED)

Posted by CMH Gourmand on July 13, 2011

The Angry Baker is anything but angry. Friendly and engaging, Vickie Hink made her way to Columbus to pursue a culinary path. Along the way she moved to Olde Town East and shifted her focus to baking. Shortly after Yellow Brick Pizza opened she walked by the space she now bakes in and decided it would be the perfect spot for her own bakery. This up and coming Olde Town culinary block will soon be joined by a tavern serving Ohio beers and sandwiches with Angry Baker buns. This is an exciting time to live in the area and certainly something to be happy about.

Vicki gets up at 4 am to bake a variety of breads including Brioche. The day starts with breakfast, which is served all day. The crowd pleaser is the Egg Sandwich featuring a fried egg with Bluejacket Dairy Ludlow cheese on a Bacon, Swiss & Chive Scone. Lunch and later includes soups, salads, sandwiches and (vegan) desserts. Many of the ingredients are Ohio Proud such as: Sharp White Cheddar (L.W. Randal’s, Warsaw), Mayfield Havarti (Orwell), Turkey from Cooper Farms (St. Henry), Eggs laid at Hillandale Farms (Croton) and oats, flour, bran, honey, maple syrup – Stutzman Farms (Millersburg).

I sampled The Turkey sandwich piled with cucumber, alfalfa sprouts, dijon, brie, tomato
on Brioche served with a side salad. The sandwich was hearty and tasty. I would get it again. I might get two.

In the dessert category I tried the Blueberry scone (rated 10 out of 10 on the scale of perfect sconeness), the vegan chocolate blueberry brownie (dense, tasted of chocolate without blocking the blueberry flavor) and after seeing the neighboring couple take one bite then sigh with pure bliss – a chocolate eclair (the yellow custard had flavor, richness and thickness with the dough and chocolate complimenting the filling with balance). Did I like the dessert? My run-on description should attest to my feelings on the matter.

The space is small with a tiny table and bar counter seating six or so. There is a table outside as well. Most of the orders are to go. If you have time, score a seat at the counter to watch Vicki construct sandwiches with speed and grace at an incredible pace without breaking a sweat. Placed under the plastic countertop are copies of recipes and cooking notes which creates the feeling of being in Grandma’s kitchen. This practical decor is integrated with the rest of the urban folk style art throughout the space. The highlight of the art (all by the same designer) is the bathroom mural.

If you bake it or pour it, they will come and that is what is happening in Olde Town East. A bustling culinary block is building a better community.

The Angry Baker
891 Oak St
Olde Town East
614.947.0976

(CLOSED SUMMER 2019)

Posted in breakfast, desserts, restaurants, sandwiches | Tagged: The Angry Baker | 2 Comments »

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