CMH Gourmand – Eating in Columbus & Ohio

Dining, Donuts, Dives and Diatribes

  • Recent Comments

    Marines Michalowski's avatarMarines Michalowski on Spain Restaurant
    Steve's avatarSteve on Columbus Pizza History: A Slic…
    Sharyn Smith Skelton's avatarSharyn Smith Skelton on Columbus Pizza History: A Slic…
    Linda shaw's avatarLinda shaw on Ding Ho, Wor Sue Gai: Columbus…
    BoomerGenX's avatarBoomerGenX on SKY Gourmand: The Cooker is Ba…
    Betty's avatarBetty on R&M Bakery – Newark…
    scottalberts's avatarscottalberts on Columbus Pizza History: A Slic…
  • Categories

  • Top Posts

  • Archives: August 2006 to Now

Archive for the ‘restaurants’ Category

The Summer of Skillet: Skillfully Executed Rustic Urban Food

Posted by CMH Gourmand on July 26, 2010

Skillet is a family affair. Angela (mom), Patrick (son) and Kevin (dad) Caskey call the shots at this Ingredient Driven, Comfort Food with an Edge dining destination. The Caskey’s know their way in the restaurant business due to their connection Banana Bean Cafe (the original Banana Bean was housed in the confines of Skillet World Headquarters) and many other restaurants. They all have their roles. Dad creates the concepts. Father and son execute the concepts – without doing the same to each other and mom keeps it all together by keeping the focus on the customer while the boys are playing with their food.

Gourmand's Skillet Rule #3, always get a pancake to share on the side

Skillet started slow in the late fall: small menu and short hours. The plan was a soft opening…not happening when the food enthusiasts of Columbus are awaiting your arrival. The buzz on Skillet was fast and furious. The Foodarazzi desire local food, seasonal ingredients, simple preparation without pretense and lots of pork. Skillet delivered. In fact, Team Caskey and Skillet sizzled with support from the likes of: the Press; Columbus Foodie; Hungry Woolf; Columbus Foodcast and Columbus Underground.

So as you can see and read, it was a good winter and spring for Skillet. But wait there is more. On Earth Day, Skillet launched their mobile kitchen to take comfort food to the masses. Skillet on wheels hits the road with three to four dishes which can be prepped and cooked on the fly. The mobile kitchen has most frequently appeared in the parking lot of O’Reilly’s Auto Parts in Olde North Columbus (at N. High Street and Hudson). The adventures and appearances of the mobile kitchen can be followed best on twitter at: @SkilletRustic. Columbus is quickly growing a diverse and strong mobile food scene with Skillet on the crest of the wave that will probably hit with tsunami force next spring.

So with all of this activity what are the gang at Skillet doing…expanding their hours by adding a few evenings of service at the restaurant and by moving from counter service to servers, or at least exploring that possibility. They make their own hot sauce for sale too.

Mobile Pork Belly Quesadilla

In the first few months when this was a three person show, Patrick was acclimated to 18+ hours days of foraging, prepping, cooking, serving and closing the restaurant. They have a few staff on board now, which allows him to spread the gospel of porchetta sandwiches to the streets of Columbus.

So why is all of this rustic, urban food so good? Because it is simple. Because it is ingredient driven (which means you make what you can make with what is fresh, local, and in season so that the food shapes the menu not vice versa.) And because the people that cook the food can see your reaction to it when you eat it – that is an incentive not to muck it up and to keep pushing for better everything. The menu changes fairly frequently, so I will not torture you with mouth-watering descriptions of menu items you may never have. You will have to take my word for it and you can take a peek at the Skillet website as well as watch their twitter feed for what they have cooking.

So why is this the summer of Skillet? Simple – experience and variety are teaming up to knock things up a notch or three. The Caskey’s have been at the ingredient driven menu game for almost a year now so they have worked out any kinks. Summer is the season of ingredients. In the early days of Skillet the mainstays of the menu were pork (no complaints), seasonal produce (Ohio has some limits in the winter time) plus what they had pickled, canned, foraged or McGuyvered. It is now open season for creativity, a time of endless ingredients and maybe some greatest hits from the boys in the kitchen. Therefore, I am excited for what the summer holds. Caskey’s please park the mobile kitchen at my Beechwold address.

But wait there is more. Columbus likes to have positive national exposure for our food community and we recently got it by having Skillet on the PBS documentary, Breakfast Special (with Rick Sebak). I wish my fair city had the passion about our excellent food scene that it has for OSU Football, if so, we could be national champions in the restaurant arena as well.

Skillet
Rustic.Urban.Food
410 East Whittier Street
Schumacher Place
Skillet

Skillet Rustic Urban Food on Urbanspoon

Posted in Columbus, restaurants | Tagged: , | 1 Comment »

Si Senor: Yes Sir, it is good

Posted by CMH Gourmand on July 18, 2010

With a name like Si Senor, I was wary. Well, very wary of what might lie inside. I envisioned low end, Mexican fast food. I was pleasantly surprised. Si Senior is not your typical Mexican restaurant, because the owners are from Peru. It is not a Mexican restaurant at all. The restaurant has only been open a few months but has quickly become a downtown lunchtime standby. Things have been going well enough for the family business to move into a larger space just next door to their original location. Now that they have elbow room and can fit more than one employee behind the counter, Si Senor is looking forward to making some expansions in the menu as well.

The cooks behind the counter have taken the friendly format of a sandwich and with a bit of slight of spatula, slipped in a phenomenal palate pleasing fusion of Latin flavors. A lot of work goes into the ingredients before serving. The cooks smoke and roast all of their meats. They make nearly everything from scratch in house such as avocado mayonnaise, jalapeno relish, and Chimichurri dressing. They also make refreshing smoothies with fresh mango, pineapple and papaya.

The owner is joined by his wife and brother as well as a few others. All have extensive restaurant experience and were ready to make the jump into the business as owners instead of manager and cooks. They enjoy the direct connection they have with customers since the small space allows the cooks to see diners eating Si Senor creations from their vantage point at the grill. As with any new business they are looking to add items to the menu and work out the best way to serve their customers – which may mean a change to table service in the future.

Meatloaf Sandwich with pasta salad

For now, the focus is on making under a dozen sandwiches and a few salads. I tried the Chicharron Peruano a sandwich with Peruvian style fried pork shoulder served with pickled onions and sweet potato mayonnaise on a ciabatta bread. I also sampled the Meatloaf Sandwich – a mix of chorizo and ground beef with poblanos, onions, tomato jam (chutneyesque) and manchego cheese. I liked this very much.

I wish I had room for the the Latin style turkey breast club (roasted turkey, Applewood bacon, avocado mayonnaise and more) and the Peruvian style chicken salad (pulled chicken, pineapple, celery, walnuts, and potato sticks).

Tres Leches

I did have room for an absolutely divine Tres Leches cake made in house. The cake was rich, dense and creamy with all the milky goodness that good tres leches can deliver. It also has a nice layer of vanilla icing which added to the flavor of the cake.

I enjoyed chatting and talking shop talk with the owners during the downtime. It turns out they are cousins of the other Peruvian family I know in Columbus – the Garcias of Jack and Benny’s fame. Due to customer feedback and demand, Si Senor is now open Saturdays from Noon to 4 PM. They are offering one traditional Peruvian entree/meal of Saturdays to show off their family favorites and share their culture with the community.

While the set up is for quick service, the atmosphere is a bit more upscale with a lot of thought and effort invested in making the dining area comfortable and relaxed.

Si Senor
20 East Long Street
Downtown
614.227.0070
614.227.0071 (fax orders)

Posted in restaurants, sandwiches | Tagged: | 3 Comments »

Dinner and a Show: Rhapsody and The Spikedrivers at Stuarts Opera House

Posted by CMH Gourmand on April 13, 2010

A tale in which our hero traveled to the principality of Nelsonville with Bear and the Doyenne of Highland Estates.

It seemed like a perfect plan to me. A perfect music venue for an excellent band. It is Spring, so it is the perfect time for a road trip. As the clincher, there would be fine food for feasting. Unexpectedly, I had an extra ticket for the show which I could not give it away. Fortunately, I was in the good company of good friends. For those that were offered the ticket and did not take it, here is what you missed.

Rhapsody is a test bed restaurant for hospitality management and culinary arts students at Hocking College. This weekend only restaurant features a seasonal and eclectic menu. My traveling companions are well versed in the worlds of food and drink. The Doyenne in particular, is an epicurean’s gourmet goddess with highly refined standards. When our server mentioned that it was opening night for the new spring menu with a new cadre of students, my first thought was…uh, oh.

As a learning environment, the restaurant solicits feedback as part of the growth experience for their staff. That being the case, I am converting their comment card to blog post and covering the meal in detail. Each question gets a rating of 1-10.

Were you greeted promptly and courteously? Yes. Score: 9

Side note on this one. I made a reservation for four online. I was called two days before to confirm the reservation and it was suggested that since we were seeing the show at 8:00, I should change the reservation to 6:30 pm from the original 7:00 pm. I did. The phone contact was efficient and professional. Good job.

Was your server prompt and courteous? Courteous – Yes. Score 8.5; Prompt: See below. Midwestern manners score: 5, Doyenne’s assumed score: 4, Bear’s assumed score: 6 for food, Fail for drinks.

Was your server competent and efficient? Competent – Yes. Score: 7.5; Efficient – Um, the thing is…., Score: Midwestern 5.

Was your server friendly and attentive to your needs? Yes. Score: 8

OK. So here is the lowdown. Our server was a very likable and fun fellow. He scored several points with us for candor. Upon sitting at our table, we noticed that the muzak in the background was too loud and too bad. The Doyenne mentioned this to our server and he was happy to comply with our request. The volume was changed to a barely registering level that could be drowned out with conversation. The canned music was later replaced by a cowboy hat wearing live musician. The musician was very good.

We ordered cocktails and a glass of wine when we were seated and I placed an order for an appetizer. The restaurant was not busy when we placed our beverage order. When our appetizer arrived we had just received our drinks and bread. That is a service fail. However, this is not fully controlled by the server and that is acknowledged. While we were waiting, Bear had an opportunity to size up the bar area and he found that it made muster. We were collectively impressed to see that the restaurant carries Kinkead Ridge wines which (as an excellent Ohio wine) is a score for any restaurant. My cocktail was really good. So a note to Rhapsody – move your drink orders faster. This allows your customers sufficient time to order more drinks. On the flip side, our water service bordered on the aggressive. If half of the energy invested in hydrating us was invested in dehydrating us, we would have been happy. I believe I heard the bartender state: “It is my pet peeve to see an empty water glass.” Sister, make that your motto for an empty wine glass or cocktail shaker and you will go far in the trade.

Was your table setting clean and complete? Yes. Score: 10 (This should always be a 10, the answer choices here should be 0 or 10 with nothing in the middle).

Philly Beef Spring Roll

How was the quality of your meal?
Our server are knowledgeable and candid about the sourcing of our meal. I ordered a Philly beef spring roll as an appetizer to share. This seemed like a bold combination which I think the chef executed exquisitely. The meat was perfectly cooked. The shell had a zen balance of crispy and chewy. There was a bit too much sauce for Bear but all three of us enjoyed this unique merging to two disparate street food cultures – Philadelphian and Asian. (Score: 8.5)

Beet Salad

One of the items ordered was a spring salad. About 1/4 of the greens in this salad were wilted. Note to Rhapsody, don’t serve a less than perfect salad to someone (from Highland Estates) that sells vegetables all day. I had the beet salad topped with microgreens from Green Edge Gardens. The microgreens were near their last legs. We knew this because the three of us have been to Greenedge Gardens and know the owners. The microgreens were acceptable to serve but for an opening night – something more fresh would have made a better impression. The beets were (not in season) admittedly from Kroger or GFS. My salad was good but not great. (Overall Salad Score: 4.5)

Pork Belly

Bear and the Doyenne were pleased with their entrees. I ordered the pork belly. Inspired by my muse, I have been studying the pork belly in 2010 at such places as Bexley Monk, L’Antibes and The Refectory. Rhapsody’s pork belly rivals the Columbus competition. However, I give the student chefs an extra pigskin point for execution. The skin was sliced/serrated before cooking which gave the outer belly crust an extra crispness and crunch. This also made the presentation damn attractive. Bear and the Doyenne sampled the pork belly as well and each voiced some satisfaction. As a swine dining expert, the Doyenne noted that the pork belly could have benefited from just a bit more cooking to achieve greatness. In retrospect, I agree. The pork belly was one minute of hot heat away from perfection. (Pork Belly Score: 9.4).

At this point a decision needed to be made. It was 7:47 pm. The show started at 8:00 pm. Our plates were just being cleared. My mind asked the as yet unanswered and unposed question – what about dessert? I did some mental figuring. Service delivery had been a bit slow up to this point. We were 100 feet from the entrance to our music venue. We were in Nelsonville, which is about 18 miles from Athens, therefore we were in the hippy time zone of Ohio. Finally, this was a musical performance and (with the exception of symphonies and operas), musicians never start on time. We had time if Rhapsody could ramp it up at the finale. I recalled there were Beignets on the menu. Without consulting with my peers I ordered those from our server the second he arrived. I told him: we had a show to go to at 8:00 pm; we must consume those Beignets STAT; and we needed our checks computed as well as delivered instantly. The Doyenne’s reaction to this was “Hey”, “what the…”, “are we going to have time to..” To which Bear’s response was…”make that two orders please.” To which the Doyenne’s reaction was “Hey”, “what the…”, “are we going to have room to..” Indeed.

Beignets...donuts to the common folk

At 7:58 pm, our orders of Beignets were delivered with our signed copies of the bills. We were shocked by the serving size of one order, let alone the two delivered. The Doyenne was incredulous that we had over-ordered. However, upon consumption of one each, it was collectively agreed that we had ordered the correct amount….one Beignet, not one serving, too many. The only misfortune was that the Doyenne lacked my ability to stuff an entire serving of powdered fried dough into my mouth without touching my face. Therefore, in addition to a tip, she also left a Hansel and Gretel style trail of powered sugar in her wake.

The trail of the Doyenne

How was your overall dining experience?
The Pork Belly helped. Our server’s good attitude earned a point. However, it was the Beignet’s and their delivery that saved the day. Overall score: 8 (with a very important disclaimer: opening day for a new team, some extra consideration was given for that).


An Open Letter to Rhapsody,

Thank you for the meal. Keep up the good work. Execute your bar service more expeditiously. Don’t ever drop your Beignet’s from the menu.

Sincerely.

C.M.H. Gourmand


So, a good meal. It was an excellent show. Here are the cliff notes on the venue and performance with a serving of shameless gushing about a superior musician.

There is no better small venue in Ohio than Stuart’s Opera House. The acoustics are good. The place is charming and every seat is excellent. The Spikedrivers are a Columbus based alternative folk/country band that includes an all star cast of talent. The evening was a special acoustic show by the band which included bongos, a piano, a xylophone and other treats. The band was missing one of their lineup but carried on without missing a beat. Of special note, Megan Palmer is a member of the Spikedrivers. Megan is also a solo artist who adds her talents to other bands as well. She currently resides mostly full-time in New York so having her in Ohio is a treat. Megan’s music is like an excellent fine wine that continues to refine over time. This is the best compliment I can give Megan: I think she is the most talented multitasking singer/musician on the planet and I would give up several meals at any of my favorite restaurants to see her play. She can sing, write lyrics, strum guitar, play the fiddle/violin and has a great stage demeanor. Megan Palmer kicks musical ass.

Spikedrivers

Stuart’s Opera House is a non profit organization that hosts a variety of events and music acts. It is not uncommon for the bar area to serve Jackie O’s Beer from Athens along with samples of Athens county cuisine. During the Spikedrivers show, offerings included Crumb’s Bakery Crackers, Frog Ranch Pickles (awesome) and local cheese. If you want to see the Spikedrivers as well as twenty odd other excellent bands and support Stuarts Opera House in the process, buy a ticket to the Nelsonville Music Festival.

Jackie O's, among the best beers in Ohio served at Stuart's

If you would like to go to Rhapsody for dinner and a show, I have an incentive for my readers. On the back of my two ticket stubs, there are coupons for a free order of Beignet’s. Make a post on this entry if you want a coupon and I will make arrangements to mail one to you.

Rhapsody
18 Public Square
Nelsonville
740.753.5740
Open: Thursday to Saturday for dinner

Posted in Ohio, restaurants, Road Trip | Tagged: , , | 2 Comments »

Nothing to do Downtown? Bite this!

Posted by CMH Gourmand on February 25, 2010

There is a trio of hysteric flawed beliefs about Columbus. These mistaken concepts are: Society ends when there are three or more inches of snow on the streets of our fair city, Columbus restaurants can’t compete on a national or world level and there is nothing to do downtown. These core beliefs are misleading propaganda that serve to diminish our civic pride. Today I debunk the third myth by sharing some downtown discoveries.

I took the day a day off from working for the man to attend to some BeerCamp administrative business with the Dispatch and the Division of Police (note: parades are expensive). In between appointments, I found I had two hours to kill on the block bordered by High Street, Broad Street, 3rd and Gay. Nothing to do…..indeed. This is what I did.

Fridays mean the Pearl Alley Market. During this time of year, the market moves inside. Granted there is a limited selection of vegetables: potatoes, potatoes and potatoes but there is plenty of locally produced goodness to buy and sample. Vendors sell meats (fresh, frozen and canned), bread, canned goods, baked goods and sundries. The space also features local art. A few photos below with give you a taste of the place, so check it out winter or summer.

A short stroll away on High Street, I spied Mr. Peanut so I decided to pay my first visit to the The Peanut Shoppe. The store sells a wide variety of nuts as well as candy and other goodies. The staff are friendly and made sure I had the best deals possible (for nut clusters buy by the pound not by the piece). The walls have several faded clippings about the history of the Peanut Shoppe past and present. The big surprise for me was the mini Mr. Peanut museum with items from one hundred plus years of Mr. Peanut product marketing.

After an hour of browsing and grazing it was time for lunch. I met one of my BeerCamp co-conspirators, the Amazing Amanda Anderson, at the equally amazing El Arepazo Latin Grill. Although this is one of my favorite places to eat, I rarely dine here due to my non downtown weekday work life and the restaurants exclusive lunchtime hours. Amanda and I were the first through the door at the 11 AM – opening time. We both relished that we would have 10-15 non crowded minutes to enjoy our excellent entrees. Everything El Arepazo offers is wonderful. I typically go with the Columbian platter (plato typical) which is a mix of most of the menu with a fried egg to boot. I was giddy from an already excellent morning so I opted out of my usual and ordered the Cuban sandwich (seen below).

In 2006 I spent a three day weekend researching the best Cuban sandwiches and Media Noche’s on Miami’s Calle Ocho. My Miami munching made my baseline for the Cuban sandwich scale of amazing. I can say that the EL Arepazo edition earned a 9.99 out of 10.

I am now going to meander a bit with a shout out for Amanda Anderson. I have hosted Pizza Grand Prix’s at Wild Goose Creative and I have attended, judged or spoken at many events there. Amanda serves as an air traffic controller for the multitude of things taking off and landing at the space and she has not yet learned to say no so while it keeps her pace a hyper version of hectic, the end result is a track record of fun food festivities that have no peer in the Midwest.

After lunch, I headed across Broad Street to Ohio State House Gift Shop for a bottle of Kinkead Ridge wine (in my opinion the best Ohio produced wine and one of the better wines in the country for the price). You can learn more about the Statehouse gift shop in my June 2009 post. This small shop buried in the basement has a great selection of Ohio wines as well as other hard to find (in Columbus) Ohio foodstuffs including the much ballyhooed Ballreich’s Potato Chips from Tiffin. The staff are knowledgeable about their products – especially the wine. In the non food category, there is a good selection of books about Ohio, many of them are hard to find autographed copies.

That is my story of two unexpected hours of leisure in downtown Columbus. I enjoyed some old favorites and made new discoveries. There were plenty of easy to find parking spaces and everything was reasonably priced. If I had been able to stay longer I could have gone to Tip Top Kitchen and Cocktails for a drink or several other great restaurants such as Due Amici, Plaintain Cafe, Latitude 41………..

If you believe there is nothing to do, I have nothing more to say to you.

Posted in culinary knowledge, markets, restaurants | Tagged: , | 9 Comments »

Galaxy Cafe: A Story of Passion

Posted by CMH Gourmand on February 10, 2010

I am frequently asked where my passion for food came from. It was a fluke. I was born with a clean plate mentality but there is nothing in my upbringing that would grow a gourmand. My father makes a good apple cake and enjoys cooking but there is nothing about him that is gourmet. My dad’s style of cooking involves a lot of grease as well as very humble and simple ingredients from his rural roots. While growing up a big night out for us would be a trip to Elby’s or Villa Nova. The most exotic food I had encountered until my middle college days was Gouda. As for the rules of fine dining, I had no idea or training in the order of operations for forks, napkin use and etc. On an eighth grade overnight field trip involving a hotel dinner my classmates were quick to point out my lack of refinement in the art of ordering and all things service and manners – my social awkwardness extended to my understanding of anything sitting on a dining table. I grew up eating in front of a TV consuming a fairly narrow range of foods and drinking a lot of Coke. While living with a host family in Australia during a college summer abroad, I was introduced to the art of the family meal and the continental use of tableware as well as how good a fresh beet or sweet potato could be. I had my first glass of wine in Melbourne but these were just novel things and did not start a culinary life (but it did change the rest of me starting an obsession with the land down under that fueled five more extended visits and countless misadventures).

The day I walked into the Galaxy Cafe was the day it all changed. I must digress with a some Columbus culinary history. The Galaxy Cafe was in Powell, well off the beaten path. This was a few years before Columbus and Delaware started to merge together and Powell was considered far away – drive 30 minutes for dinner?. Ricky Barnes was one of the owners. There was a falling out with his partner who left to open the Starliner Diner. A grill cook left to start a place called Nacho Mama’s which had a short but fabulous run fueled by fish tacos. These three places brought a new attitude and ingredients to the mainstream of the metropolitan area in the form of plantains, cilantro, black bean hummus, fusions of southwestern flavors and breakfast menus that set diners spinning on their stools. This is also the first time that I had experienced food that was intended to be vegetarian. At the time, the Galaxy Cafe was the only place in town that was quick to play alternative music, hang interesting art and hire tattooed, pierced and painfully cute artsy waitresses (sigh).

I came to know Ricky well. I was in heaven when The Galaxy opened in Grandview. The menu was the same but the specials were different and the commute was shorter. A weekly routine developed where eight to ten of my friends and I would hold court for one breakfast and one dinner or more each week in either Galaxy. As Ricky came to know us he would ask us to sample new dishes, solicit us for feedback and occasionally comp us a dessert for our loyalty. The most memorable dish from this era was homemade museli soaked in real cream that served as my morning muse many, many times.

The next development was a third entry into the Galaxy empire called Lost Planet Pizza and Pasta in the Short North. Ricky and company created thin crust pizzas with topping combinations that could not be conceived by mere mortals. An array of pastas were created that blended the favors of Asia, Italy and other diverse locales. It was about this time that Ricky started to offer special wine dinners where a distributor would come in to serve and talk about a selection of wines paired with new dishes that the restaurants were considering. These dinners were always packed with the loyalists of the Galaxy and they remain in my memory as among the best meals I have had. Lost Planet offered a weekday lunch time all you could eat pizza and pasta buffet so I was there on every state holiday (since I don’t work downtown). Ricky started to teach an occasional class/workshop at Columbus State so I took his classes and learned a little bit about cooking. I learned a lot about being fearless in the kitchen by having the courage to cook without the safety net of a recipe and the confidence to say something that was burned was intentionally charred. As with most of my interests I was frequently the sole man in the class and often the only person under 50.

Things were great and therefore it was doomed to end. The Galaxy in Powell was sold (it became the first La Tavola – which was awesome). Then The Galaxy (Grandview) was closed. For the final night – Ricky cooked everything left in the restaurant until it was all gone and did not charge a thing. The Lost Planet carried on for a while but faltered. Ricky left town to chef at a resort out west and it was the end of an era.

There was a brief rekindling of the affair when Ricky came back to Columbus and took the old Lost Planet space and reopened as Ricky’s Galaxy. The menu was a fusion of the Galaxies and Lost Planet. However, things did not click on round two. The place struggled with staff consistency and had a lot of problems with hiring enough employees. The fans of Galaxies past struggled with having to find a parking spot in the Short North when they were accustomed to free parking lots in the suburbs. There were some bright moments. The highlight was an adobo eggs and jalapeno cornbread dish Ricky had been working on. He nailed it on Sunday August 26th, 2001. It was the best breakfast of my life and I told him so.

The day after I went to Ireland with my girlfriend. During the trip I saw that first glimpse of a possibility that the woman I thought I was going to marry might not be “the one”. On the flight home one of the engines failed so the plane turned around and limped back to Ireland. As we were being herded to a hotel to await a flight for the following day we were told that the engine was fixed, a flight crew had been found and that anyone that was going to the United States had better get on the plane in 10 minutes. We scrambled back on the plane. Due to a bit of luck, I made it back to Columbus late on September 10th, 2001, one day late instead of two. Needless to say, the next day was not so great either. I knew I needed to get grounded after that much trauma so on Sunday I walked into Ricky’s Galaxy to find…..a bar, Liz Lessner behind it and that the place was now called Betty’s. In shock, I turned around and walked out. In two weeks the Galaxy had imploded and my universe had changed.

The Galaxy Cafe opened the door to culinary curiosity for me. It introduced me to the Short North, Grandview and the world outside of 270. While all of this history was being made, I was recording some of it. I compiled a tomb about my favorite Columbus restaurants called the Good Food Guide. It had a few paragraphs on each place, copies of menus and hand drawn maps. It was very low tech. I would print up batches of ten to twenty at a time to give to friends and anyone I thought would be interested. Most people were not interested. I revised it several times and added information about my favorite places in Dayton and Yellow Springs and elsewhere. There are about 100 GFG’s versions I – IV floating around Ohio. I took one of these to a freelance writing class taught by Shannon Jackson Arnold who was editor at Ohio Magazine. We hit it off so I started to write about food for Ohio Magazine – traveling all over the state in pursuit of my passion. That is the beginning of the story. I am not sure how it ends but I know I there are still many more forks in the road until I get to where I am intended to be.

Posted in culinary knowledge, restaurants | Tagged: , | 27 Comments »

Phillip’s Original Coney Island – Columbus Hot Dog Heritage

Posted by CMH Gourmand on February 3, 2010

I was on my way to Columbus Police Headquarters to complete a parade application for BeerCamp….really. That is not a punchline it really happened. I took a wrong turn and almost drove by Phillip’s. I am not normally downtown at lunchtime and when I am on Broad Street I am programmed to go to Tommy’s Diner since Tommy is a family friend. However, it was late in the afternoon and I needed a fast meal so I turned into the Phillip’s driveway at the last second.

As I walked through the door I instantly knew I made the right choice and I was mad at myself for allowing a decade or more to pass since my last visit. Phillip’s is the quintessential old school hot dog shop and lunch stop. There is a sense of home when you seat yourself that is rare in most restaurants. The servers are fast, friendly and efficient while in constant motion, often working as a team with each table and booth. The terms honey and sweetie are loosely and frequently applied to everyone. Many of the customers are regulars known by name, order or both. In the course of my meal, I was greeted by three servers and the owner so it was very clear that this place cares about their customers and they want you to come back.

There have been several Phillip’s Coney Island restaurants in Columbus since the first location opened in 1912. It can get a little confusing figuring out which is which (two remain but only one is the “Original” and owned by the same family that started the business so long ago). There is a history and family tree on the back of each menu to help you get your bearings on who owned what when. The great grandson, Nick Manus, is the current owner. He is clearly connected to his business; in the entrance there is a photo of Nick, his bride and their wedding party in front of the restaurant.

The coney’s are done right. The buns are steamed. The hot dogs are lightly grilled. The whole package is served with homemade coney sauce (sold by the pint), mustard, onions and cheese on request. That is a classic coney. Other items on the menu fall into the realm of Ohio lunchtime diner fare – bologna sandwich, hamburgers, chili, bean soup and more. A stand out is the Phillips Combination sandwich: fried ham with a fried egg. In the old country that is known as doyenne style. Another item of significant note, they serve Der Dutchman pies.

Ohio Hot Dog historians can appreciate that the family roots are from Greece. Greek immigrants have a long and proud history of establishing renown hot doggeries (especially in Cincinnati) as well as distinctive coney sauces. Phillip’s is the oldest food purveying family in town and in honor of that, Phillips was the first restaurant to be inspected using the new Columbus Health Department guidelines. There is a photo with Mayor Coleman to mark that occasion. If you check out the web site, there is a countdown to 100 years of Phillips which will be in January 2012.

There is a lot to appreciate about Phillip’s. The food is secondary to the experience. The history and the connection the owners and staff have with their community is a slice of life that can not be created by a committee, focus group or consultant, it either happens or it does not. If four generations of a family can maintain a business – they get it.

Phillips Original Coney Island
450 West Broad Street
Franklinton (Sweeneytown to some of us)
614.221.8288
Phillip’s web site

Posted in Columbus, hot dogs, kid friendly dining, restaurants | Tagged: | Leave a Comment »

Anna’s Greek Cuisine: Sunday Brunch and Dinner Buffet

Posted by CMH Gourmand on January 22, 2010

(Warning: There is a long wind up on this pitch)

In the eight years I have owned my house I have cursed the previous occupants many, many times. The husband appears to have been a do it yourself type who did everything wrong, especially if the task involved electricity or plumbing. I found each of the electrical errors the hard way. The plumber that fixed one of “Mr. Frak it up” mistakes used profanity I had never heard as he stated what he discovered in the toilet installation was the greatest act of stupidity he had encountered during forty years in the trade.

Speaking of the bathroom, there was one (and only one) redemptive act the couple made. They (most likely just the wife since she may have not been an idiot) painted the bathroom like a gyro shop with mural that depicted the scene from a Greek seaside temple. Since I had spent a lot of time in Greek restaurants I was not disturbed by the bathroom but the other people that could have purchased the house were bothered by the prospect of a bathroom/restaurant so a bidding war was avoided.

This passive aggressive digression does have a purpose. I recently had the mural painted over to prep my house for a possible sale. Having had a Greek mural in my bathroom to greet me to consciousness most mornings in the last decade I found that when the temple was destroyed, my mojo was off. The mural had served an important role in my social life for years – if someone could not appreciate my bathroom, there was a good chance they were not going to be a significant part of my social life. Now how I am I supposed to exclude people?

It was a Sunday and I was in a penitent mood so I figured the best way to make peace with Apollo, Zeus and the other Olympian gods was to feast on Greek cuisine. I needed to eat a good Greek meal for atonement. One of my favorite Greek restaurants is Anna’s on Sawmill Road. For no good reason, I had not been there in over one year.

If you have never tried Anna’s or have limited experience with Greek cuisine, their Sunday buffet is the perfect introduction. The brunch buffet is offered from 11:00 am to 2:30 pm and the dinner buffet is from 2:30 pm to 7:30 pm. The overlap of dishes for both meals is significant so you do not need to worry about missing the best of the best. Selections include two salads, two soups, appetizers as well as a dozen or more entrees and sides completed with an entire table dedicated to dessert.

The table of desserts

The quality of the food and the service are both excellent. A few of my favorites from the buffet (and the regular menu) include Mousaka (as fun to say as to eat; this is a mix of eggplant, beef or lamb, tomato base and spices), walnut cake, and Lemon Chicken soup (Avgolemono). Anna’s has been open since 1997 and continues to keep standards for food and service at a high standard. When I am not enjoying the buffet, I often just order the spread sampler (a choice of three from hummus, Tzatziki, Skorthalia, Kafteri, Melitzanosalata and black olive spread).

There is another thing I like about Anna’s. Their marketing is well done and their e-mail list is well managed. They occasionally e-mail coupons to customers and most importantly, the restaurant gives blogs their due. Anna’s frequently cites the review by Becke from Columbus Foodie in their promotions. Go social media!

Anna’s Greek Cuisine
7370 Sawmill Road
Columbus/Dublin (just north of 270)
614.799.2207
www.annasgreekcuisine.com

Anna's menu cover, not my bathroom wall...but close

Posted in kid friendly dining, restaurants | Tagged: , | 3 Comments »

Bono Bounces Back

Posted by CMH Gourmand on January 13, 2010

The summer of 2008 was THE season for Bono Pizza in the Short North. The unconventional ways of pizza purist Bill Yerkes meshed a traditional approach to pizza (well kind of) with many non traditional elements such as a unique partnership with a Short North Bakery in a location along an alley. The enterprise should not have worked. It did. In fact it prospered. It was the darling of Short North and Victorian Village residents and an unofficial meeting point for Columbus Underground ilk. However, like any burning sun, it was bound to extinguish and it did in the fall of 2008. (To learn more about this era see my December 2008 post and Foodcast episode 18 from August 2008.)

CU – Bono Bounces Back

There were attempts at rebirth. Bill came full circle with a location near his home at a site vacated by Cowtown Pizza. Showing his very unconventional side and some significant out of the box thinking, Bill utilized Columbus Underground as a means to raise some fast cash to get his operation going. (See below and below that)

CU – Taking “stock” in Bono

Always the non-traditionalist, Bill has put together a proposal for his loyal customers to help raise the extra cash quickly. He calls it the “bonoPIZZA Pay it Forward Plan. Effective immediately, bonoPIZZA will begin selling half-price gift certificates in $100 and $200 increments. The $100 gift certificate will cost $50, and the $200 gift certificate will cost $100, making it a great deal for anyone planning on dining at bono in the future. The goal is to sell approximately 75 of these certificates to cover the cost of raising the additional $5,000.

The equitable effort was successful but the site fell through. As a result, most of 2009 was a year without a Bono clause so the natives started to get a little restless. I was one of the people that invested (or donated depending on your perspective) money depending on how you look at it. The outcome was a new location even closer to Bill’s abode. Bill has the best commute to work in the local restaurant trade. Bono bounced back so I now have $200 worth of pizza in the form of twenty buy one get one free pizzas.

The new Bono Pizza is located in a carryout on Northwest Blvd in Grandview. It features a wood fired oven and the always entertaining personality and styling of Bill Yerkes. His wife Peggy is there most evenings to take orders and take care of her customers. I was technically the first paying customer and somewhere in the establishment there is a signed first dollar bill from me. Bono is still experimenting with hours (we could see an lunch option in 2010), the menu – a constant blank slate for Bill and other dishes (maybe a salad, maybe a pepperoni roll) and who knows what else. Bono also offers crepes for $3, espresso for $1 and more often than not creme brulee in shot style glasses. Beverages can be obtained in the adjoining carry out.

il gato - an mexican style pizza under development, served with a side of guacamole. This may be added to the regular rotation

The new site is not without challenges. There have been issues with the roof and the space itself calls for some creativity for business hours after the carry out closes. The walkability and charm of the old site are not the same but the “hidden clubhouse” feeling continues on in this incantation of Bono.

A Greek Boy.....

The new Bono features eighteen specialty pizzas as well as a build your own option. All pizzas are $10 each. Bill perfected his pizza craft for twenty five years in Italy. His crusts and ratios are in the Italian style with all flavors balancing each other. His non traditional half or in his case 3/4 self, exhibits itself in the toppings and names (Hulk, Waikiki, The Greek Boy….) Here are a few examples of the pizzas:

San Rolando
Fresh tomato sauce, pepperoni, (real – really good too) Italian Sausage and fresh Mozzarella cheese.
This pizza is named in honor of Roland Kopecky, the best Bono customer of 2008 and future Pierogi King of Columbus.

Carbonara
Smithfield peppered ham/bacon, carmelized for three plus hours with onions then lathered on a layer of Asiago and real mozzarella cheese with a sprinkling of Parmesan and “pixie dust” (that came right off the menu not my keyboard, but at Bono….it could happen).
This pizza was created and inspired in part by the Grumpy Gourmet who has made an appearance or two at this establishment.

Most of a San Rolando...prior to delivery to Roland

Bono ToGo Pizza
1717 Northwest Blvd
Grandview
614.906.8646(ToGo)
as the menu says: “of course it’s in the back of a liquor store, it’s bonopizza!”

Open: Monday to Saturday 5 PM to 10 PM

Posted in pizza, restaurants, Vegetarian Friendly | Tagged: , | 1 Comment »

Route 62 BBQ: A Scouting Report

Posted by CMH Gourmand on December 16, 2009


Route 62 BBQ
580 West Coshocton Street (SR 62)
Johnstown
740.967.2462
Closed Mondays

www.62bbq.com

Route 62 BBQ

Route 62 BBQ

I drove by Route 62 BBQ several times in the summer and fall. On my last driveby, I caught sight of the huge smoker in the back and a scent of BBQ in the air. These were good signs. As a Kansas City BBQ Society Certified BBQ judge, it is my obligation to investigate any potentially good BBQ joint.

On my scouting mission, I observed that the place has a loyal following of regulars, that employees know by name or ordering preference. The mix of themed and family photos as well as the bric-a-brac on the walls reflects a pride and passion in BBQ. These guys are serious about their craft and compete as a cooking team at competitions and cook offs. The restaurant seats about 16 inside which is fine since the bulk of business is carry out. BBQ was never intended for fine dining or tablecloths.

A wide array of meats and sides are served up daily. I need to sample more to officially opine on their smoking of swine, poultry and beef. Some of their sides did make a lasting impression. The baked beans are a combination of four types of beans bathed in a rich, browned BBQ sauce. Their skillet corn is simple and it is the simplicity that makes it wonderful.

I was also impressed by their pie preparation and selections. Shorty (all 4’11” of her) mans the front end of the business. She also crafts their daily selection of pies (Peanut Butter, Pecan and Banana Cream). Shorty had no prior pie experience before coming on board. She spent her first three months in a pie making apprenticeship with one of the mothers of the owners. This pie protoge graduated with some fine pie making skills.

I was immediately impressed with the selection of sauce flavors which are named: Rootbeerbeque, Buffalo, Fools Gold, Gold, Carolina, Asian, Spicy and Hidden Stash. The sauces are rich and full flavored. The Route 62 BBQ boys also offer a very tasty jalapeno ketchup. BBQ is about the meat…but in my experience it can’t hurt to have some sauce on the side for emergencies or as a beverage.

Route 62 Barbecue on Urbanspoon

Posted in restaurants, Road Trip | Tagged: | 2 Comments »

Pigging Out at Pig Iron

Posted by CMH Gourmand on December 7, 2009

Best Nachos I know of...

Winter has me craving comfort and comfort food. My salvation can be found on a plate at Pig Iron BBQ. This perilously piled plate includes: lots of thick house made tortilla chips, homemade (vinegary) salsa, sour cream, chili with beans, jalapenos, cheddar cheese, beef brisket scraps and pulled pork. On the surface this may sound and look good. The concoction certainly tastes good. This can serve as a meal for one or two people. The tipping point and what warms my heart like the Grinch at Christmas is the price – at happy hour, these nachos are 1/2 off! Happy Hour typically starts at 2 PM during the week. So I can have these beautiful nachos and a large draft beer for less than $10 with tip included and skip the bar before the masses come in. These nachos can nip the blues.

As of for the rest of the menu, it is decent, with the pulled pork sandwich being the best bet of the bunch. Pig Iron is a spin off of Old Bag of Nails and includes some of the menu items from their sister restaurant – namely the gigantic fish sandwich.

Here are couple bits of Pig Iron lore: The building used to be a McDonalds and was one of the few Columbus area Golden Arches to close….ever. When the restaurant first opened the neighbors were not so happy. Typically Clintonvillians offer sacrifices to the restaurant gods to bring us eateries. However the gods can be fickle. When they brought forth Pig Iron it came with a big pink pick up truck in the front as art. Art lost out to profit and community. The truck is now less conspicuous but there is still plenty of pink on premises to keep spirits warm.

Pig Iron BBQ
5295 North High St
SOWO (South of Worthington) or NOMO (North of Morse)
614.885.4744

Posted in restaurants | Tagged: | 1 Comment »