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Explorers Club: My First Expeditions

Posted by CMH Gourmand on October 23, 2011

I am pleased. I am happy. Darn it, I might even use the word ecstatic! I have waited ten years and two months for this sign.

So what is the big deal? The Explorer’s Club is open. Yes, it is a restaurant. Ricky Barnes is cooking in the kitchen and Tracy Studer is guiding the front of the house. If you don’t recognize these names then you probably did not dine out in Columbus from the early 1990’s to 2001 (The Galaxy Cafe, Lost Planet Pizza and Pasta, Ricky’s Galaxy). Ricky and Tracy describe the Explorer’s Club as the Galaxy grown up. A few of the dishes and all of the flavors of Galaxies past are on the menu. The menu, decor and focus on service reflect changes in Tracy, Ricky and the rest of us during the last decade.

So a blast from the past has returned. Many eaters from the Columbus dining scene of old have fond memories of Ricky’s culinary accomplishments. Another element adding to the bigness of the deal is the location. I have discussed growing downtown dining and why this is important to the city. A good restaurant can be a foundation or launching point for a community (for example Yellow Brick Pizza and Angry Baker in Olde Town East). The Explorer’s Club is located on South High in Merion Village. The plucky neighborhood has limited eating options within their community, so a successful restaurant with good food can be a vibrant asset to the area. A past effort in the space, Coyote Jane’s, was a horrible disappointment (Did I just write something negative? Yes, and readers know I never do that. I will say the food, service and, well, everything was memorable, but not because it was good).

So with all of this good karma swelling up I must admit I had some trepidation. This was like revisiting an old flame. Are things ever as good as we remember them? I changed, they changed. Was the awesomeness of the Galaxy just a fond memory I had built up over the years. What if I did not like it? More importantly, what if you don’t like it. I don’t know if I can deal with the Galaxy imploding again the Explorer’s Club closing it’s doors.

I visited during a dry run night and ate for free. I went the next two days for brunch and was happy to pay for meals just as good at a good value. The verdict: YES! wonderful, near perfect, exciting, tasty. The menu may have an aspect of nostalgia but the flavor is there and a explorers spirit of pushing the limits. Considering the Explorer’s Club was open just to test drive the menu, train new servers and cooks and for experimenting with a few ideas, the end result was spectacular. I typically don’t try out a new restaurant for at least a month after opening so they can work out any kinks and I can walk through the door with reasonable expectations. On paper the Explorer’s Club should not have had much of a chance to blow me away based on my fervent loyalty of the past. I am looking forward to what the Explorer’s Club can do with a more seasoned staff and a few weeks of menu enhancements. Changes are already in the works. A bar menu is in the process of development as well as a limited selection of cocktails.

The food and the music is impressively sourced locally when possible. Here is a list of some of the local purveyors used:

Used Kids Records (the genres of music mix well with the menu)
Growers First / Crimson Cup (Coffee and Tea)
Shagbark Seed and Mill Company (from my food first favorite Athens, Ohio)
Gerber cage free, organic vegetarian fed chicken
OSU Agricultural egg hormone and antibiotic free pork
Stutzman Farms (grains/flour)

Not local, but definitely reflective of the restaurant, is where the artwork is sourced from. Most of the prints are by Jeb Loy Nichols, Wales UK.

Nichol’s portraits of famous or infamous names you may have heard include: John Coltrane, Amelia Earhart, Hank Aaron, Wendell Berry, Miles Davis, Nina Simone, Harvey Milk and Woody Gutherie. All were pioneers in their fields and times. The tagline of the Explorers Club is Simple – Pioneering – Flavor. The Galaxy was a pioneer in Columbus dining in the day and today, Explorers Club has taken that spirit and refined it. Staking a claim in Merion Village could be pioneering as well, I hope others will follow to add to the spice of this neighborhood.

So after all of this historical and philosophic foreplay, it is time to focus on the food.

Dinner was my first experience (note a few menu items may change of get tweaked by the time you travel to the Explorer’s Club. The item I hoped to see the most was black bean hummus. It is on the menu and is now served with garlic citrus pizza bread (looks and tastes like the best pita bread I have ever had). The hummus is great. I do miss the giant pool of garlic sauce that topped the 1993 – 2001 version but since that causes significant “personal space” issues for me, I figure it was omitted for the safety of the general public.

I also ordered the chicken quesadilla with charred salsa and sour cream. The salsa packed some significant heat but paired with the cool sour cream accentuated the flavors of everything on the plate.

The winner of the dinner entrees selected was the beef brisket (with black beans, redskin potatoes and jalapeno slaw). The brisket fell apart with very light pressure from my fork. It has a complimentary mix of flavors in the broth to spice things up. My dining companion is not a fan of the jalapeno but she found the proportion of pepper to slaw to be perfect balance of heat and cool.

For dessert there was only one choice I could allow, another blast from my past, Mrs. Barnes Pumpkin Dessert (I recalled this being called Surpise). Oh, yes. This is no pumpkin pie. It is served with cream and fresh berries. It might best be described as a fusion of cake, pie and cheesecake. It is good, that is all that matters.

I woke up the following day and got some of the old gang together to go back from brunch (after college a group of six to ten of us were there almost every Saturday for one or two meals). Longtime readers know I have little interest in breakfast with very few exceptions, Explorers Club is on the short list. I liked my group meal so much I went back the next day solo to sample the only item I did not try the day before.

Another menu item I was passionately, desperately, pathetically hoping for was museli. This simple dish was the hallmark for all other museli experiences in my life, with the exception of a serving I had in Zug, Switzerland every subsequent museli left me wanting and musing about why Ricky would create something so good and take it away. The 2011 version is as good as any and quite photogenic.

Next was the Sophie’s Choice of toast: Cuban French Toast with fruit vs. Grilled Cinnamon Bread with fruit and cream. The Gourmand approach to problem solving goes something like this, “when in doubt, get both”. It was the right choice. Both get “best of show” in their classes. I can not advise you to pick one over the other. The crunchy, funnel cake like batter on the French Toast is borderline addictive. French or not, Cuban bread is the finest way to experience this dish. As for the Cinnamon Bread, the cream was great – I would love to see more on teh side next time.

(I mean really, how could you choose?)

All the breads are made in-house at Explorers Club. The bread is fresh, hearty and serves as a great base for many of the dishes or a compliment for dipping sauces on the side. One their best uses of bread is the Fried Egg sandwich served on Ciabatta with Muenster Cheese and Jalapeno slaw with redskin potatoes on the side. This is a bit messy to eat but who cares, it might be the best breakfast sandwich (non-traditional category) in town.

Love at first bite? In my case, they had me at OPEN. Trying to be objective, would I feel the same way about Explorers Club without the prior history? Yes. If anything my expectations and hopes may have made impressing me more difficult. Considering that more additions and improvements are in the works for the coming weeks, it is easy to believe their grade of A going to A+. The Explorer’s Club is worth exploring. I would suggest going for both a dinner and brunch to gauge the potential that is here.

I will be writing about the Explorers Club more for sure. I am interested in what the bar menu will have to offer as well as the variety of cocktails appearing behind the bar. Did I mention I was really happy?

The Explorer’s Club opens the doors to the world on October 28th, 2011.

Explorers Club
1586 S. High Street
Merion Village / South Side
614.725-0155
Facebook

Explorers Club on Urbanspoon

Posted in CLOSED, Locally Sourced, restaurants, sandwiches, Vegetarian Friendly | Tagged: , , | 13 Comments »

The Monolith Sandwich at Neighbor’s Deli: The First Attempt

Posted by CMH Gourmand on August 31, 2011

Fate took me to Neighbor’s Deli. It seems that when I am in transition an eating challenge appears on my radar. While waiting for friends to show up at Cuco’s, I wandered by Neighbor’s Deli as I was pacing down the sidewalk looking for somewhere to sit. A friend had mentioned Neighbors to me a year ago. I added it to a very long to eat list I have on my laptop and it promptly forgotten. As I approached Neighbors Deli the images of Spock and Kirk on the window beckoned me inside to take a peek. I observed a large menu of appealing sandwiches. I looked for a carry out menu but could not find one. One of the owners was behind the counter working. He noticed me mulling about. After a bit of banter he told me he was out of carry out menus but he would make a copy of their catering menu if I did not mind waiting a bit. I did not mind waiting at all. I was in a holding pattern anyway.

As the menu was being handed to me, I saw a sign about a Monolith sandwich. Hmm. I read about it and the long list of ingredients piled onto it. Then I spied the words that locked in a return trip: 4 and 1/2 pound sandwich, eat in 20 minutes and 11 seconds to get it for free. FREE. Large sandwich. Hmm, OK, yes. This reminded me of the Dagwood Challenge (I am a three time winner? of this). The Dagwood is 2 1/2 pounds of meat….that is hard to eat. The Monolith was almost twice the size. This seemed foolish. Yep I was in, but just for research purposes I told myself.

The following week I came in at lunch time. I ordered the Monolith without significant hesitation. The deli men were impressed. Very impressed. I was asked if I knew about the challenge and if I was going to finish it. My responses were yes and no. While waiting for the sandwich making to begin I started to think maybe I can finish this. I asked if I could substitute additional meat for the tomato and onion layers (I don’t like these in raw form). I was told, with no uncertainty, “NO, we serve this sandwich exactly as it is, no substitutions.” “Well, it was worth asking, that being the case, I will not finish the sandwich, I’ll just take some photos.”

I watched the sandwich creation process. It took at least 15 minutes to assemble. I was taken to my assigned table (the staff sets a timer and watches the sandwich eating so there is no cheating and only one table is suitable for this task). I snapped some photos, rubbed my belly once and said I was ready to begin. “Oh, hold on, wait, um, can I cut this in half first.” I wanted a cross-section photo and I wanted a chance to eat at least one half of this monstrosity, Monolith. I was given a knife for slicing. My cutting skills were so good I was offered a job on the spot (based on the fact I could cut a straight line through the Monolith without assistance or a power tool).((I may take them up on the offer, simple repetitive work with lots of social interaction seems really appealing at the moment.)) Cutting completed, I gave the OK to begin.

This is what I ate and what I had to cut through:

Bread
Swiss cheese
Corned Beef (5 oz)
Pastrami (5 oz)
Horseradish
Onion
Pickle
Cole Slaw
Bread
Cheddar cheese
Roast Beef (5 oz)
Lettuce
Tomato
Spicy Mustard
Bread
Jalapenos
Pepperjack Cheese
Smoked Ham (5 oz)
Turkey (5 oz)
Lettuce
Tomato
Oregano
Mayonnaise
bacon
Bread

Again, I had stated that I was not going to finish the sandwich. However, I got off to a great start. The Neighbors crew and customers were getting excited….”He’s gonna do it”. I was eating at a very fast pace. The bread and the various components were really good. I picked off the tomatoes and onions and dissected the sandwich into smaller sandwiches. At the ten minute mark the first half was but a fond and filling memory, I had eaten 65% of the mandatory potato salad side and I had a decent start on the second half of this now just very large sandwich. I had gone mano y mano with the Monolith and had exceeded everyone’s expectations so far, including my own.

The sandwich crafter was impressed with my efforts. He said, “you are doing great!”, “tell you what, you can skip the tomatoes……..keep going”. Even with ten minutes left I told him I was not going to finish the sandwich. I took a rest for a minute then started picking at the other half (after we took a moment to measure the remaining sandwich – 7 1/2 inches and about two pounds). At the five-minute mark I was doing pretty well. If I ate very fast and pushed myself and my belly to points unknown I could have finished it. I was fairly sure I would be sick the rest of the day if I pushed on so with 24% of the sandwich left I threw in the napkin at the three-minute mark.

Some may have looked at this as a failure. I looked at this as a victory – I chose not to be an absolute glutton. It also turned out I did really well. I am one of twelve people attempting the Monolith challenge. Only one person finished the sandwich to date. Of the remaining eleven, the Neighbors boys guessed I came in second or third for total consumption. Not bad for not trying.

Before I walked out of the door I was given a handshake, an eleven cent discount on my sandwich and a Neighbors T-Shirt even though I did not complete the challenge. The guys at Neighbors have class. I will be back for some regular sandwiches. Someday in the next year I will go back and eat the whole sandwich. I know I can do it. I just need someone to drive me home after and a cold floor to hibernate on.

Neighbor’s Deli
2142 Henderson Rd
Northwest Columbus / Upper Arlington
614.459.0188

Oh, no.

Neighbor’s Deli on Urbanspoon

Posted in culinary misadventure, sandwiches | Tagged: , | 10 Comments »

The Angry Baker – (CLOSED)

Posted by CMH Gourmand on July 13, 2011

The Angry Baker is anything but angry. Friendly and engaging, Vickie Hink made her way to Columbus to pursue a culinary path. Along the way she moved to Olde Town East and shifted her focus to baking. Shortly after Yellow Brick Pizza opened she walked by the space she now bakes in and decided it would be the perfect spot for her own bakery. This up and coming Olde Town culinary block will soon be joined by a tavern serving Ohio beers and sandwiches with Angry Baker buns. This is an exciting time to live in the area and certainly something to be happy about.

Vicki gets up at 4 am to bake a variety of breads including Brioche. The day starts with breakfast, which is served all day. The crowd pleaser is the Egg Sandwich featuring a fried egg with Bluejacket Dairy Ludlow cheese on a Bacon, Swiss & Chive Scone. Lunch and later includes soups, salads, sandwiches and (vegan) desserts. Many of the ingredients are Ohio Proud such as: Sharp White Cheddar (L.W. Randal’s, Warsaw), Mayfield Havarti (Orwell), Turkey from Cooper Farms (St. Henry), Eggs laid at Hillandale Farms (Croton) and oats, flour, bran, honey, maple syrup – Stutzman Farms (Millersburg).

I sampled The Turkey sandwich piled with cucumber, alfalfa sprouts, dijon, brie, tomato
on Brioche served with a side salad. The sandwich was hearty and tasty. I would get it again. I might get two.

In the dessert category I tried the Blueberry scone (rated 10 out of 10 on the scale of perfect sconeness), the vegan chocolate blueberry brownie (dense, tasted of chocolate without blocking the blueberry flavor) and after seeing the neighboring couple take one bite then sigh with pure bliss – a chocolate eclair (the yellow custard had flavor, richness and thickness with the dough and chocolate complimenting the filling with balance). Did I like the dessert? My run-on description should attest to my feelings on the matter.

The space is small with a tiny table and bar counter seating six or so. There is a table outside as well. Most of the orders are to go. If you have time, score a seat at the counter to watch Vicki construct sandwiches with speed and grace at an incredible pace without breaking a sweat. Placed under the plastic countertop are copies of recipes and cooking notes which creates the feeling of being in Grandma’s kitchen. This practical decor is integrated with the rest of the urban folk style art throughout the space. The highlight of the art (all by the same designer) is the bathroom mural.

If you bake it or pour it, they will come and that is what is happening in Olde Town East. A bustling culinary block is building a better community.

The Angry Baker
891 Oak St
Olde Town East
614.947.0976

(CLOSED SUMMER 2019)

The Angry Baker on Urbanspoon

Posted in breakfast, desserts, restaurants, sandwiches | Tagged: | 2 Comments »

Pizza House Pushing Past The Fifty Year Mark

Posted by CMH Gourmand on June 20, 2011

Pizza House is located off the beaten path. The current location is in a former convenience store, tucked between Sinclair Road and railroad tracks. The former location was across Lincoln Ave. The original seated maybe twenty while doing a brisk carry out business. Pizza House is also located in my memories of middle school and beyond. It may have been my first non-Clintonville pizza pie (it is located yards from the border of Clintonville and Worthington. Pizza House is still the place that tradition dictates that I travel to when my childhood friend comes to town as we visit a place we have gone to since we were kids.

Pizza House was hot in the 1980’s, it appeared in numerous publications as one of the best pizzas in Columbus. Even as the Columbus pizza palate has grown over time, I would still include the Pizza House pepperoni and sausage pizza among my top twenty-one pizzas in Columbus. Their open-faced meatball sandwich is one of my top ten comfort foods involving bread. Pizza House is an institution in the neighborhoods around 161 and Sinclair as well as the communities on the other side of the tracks. Business is still booming and carry out business is brisk. Although the business has fallen off the media radar it is still doing quite well.

Pizza House turns fifty in the fall. It opened in 1961. The first non family employee was fifteen year old Billy Colasante. He stayed with Pizza House when it moved in 1991 then he bought the business in 1993. Some employees have worked there over thirty years, a rare thing in any business. The familiar faces among veteran employees and other Colasantes working in the house does give the restaurant a friendly, family feeling. The interior is lined with local little league baseball and soccer trophies accumulated from years of supporting teams in the area.

Any small business, especially in the restaurant trade, that can thrive after fifty years must be doing something right. In the case of Pizza House it is the case of the same people making the same product consistently and taking the time to connect with the community.

Pizza House
747 Lincoln Ave.
Columbus (and my memories)

Pizza House on Urbanspoon

Posted in pizza, restaurants, sandwiches | Tagged: | 3 Comments »

Krema Nut Company: All That and a Bag of Nuts and a Peanut Butter Sandwich

Posted by CMH Gourmand on February 9, 2011

Krema Nut Company drives me nuts. Whenever I go there, I think, why don’t I come here more often. For some unfathomable reason I forget that I love their spicy peanut butter. And I can never quite convince myself to buy a “Can You Handle My Spicy Hot Nuts?” boxer shorts….but maybe someday I will have the courage to do that (or I could just buy it online). If you need any type of nut (edible) they have it or can get it. Krema is often the only place I can find Black Walnuts when it is time to make my dad’s Apple cakes. Krema has nuts but whole lot more.

Krema’s biggest claim to fame is peanut butter. They have made it since 1898. Krema may be the oldest continuous manufacturer of peanut butter in the country. If that is not the case then clearly 112 years of practice makes for a good product. Their peanut butter is all natural – no sugar, preservatives, salt etc., just fresh, fancy grade, roasted Spanish peanuts. Krema also cranks out (literally) Almond and Cashew Butter. The products are made in small batches by a master nut roaster. Krema offers tours where they show you the whole process (call for details). The Columbus Dispatch also has a nice slideshow to show off our local treasure.

Krema is a good one stop gift shop for the “fooder duder” in your life. Especially this time of year. In addition to nuts, butters and suggestive T-Shirts they have a wide selection of sweet treats including chocolates, popcorn, classic candies and a sugar free line of goodies. They also sell local favorites Johnson’s Ice Cream and Jeni’s Ice Cream by the pint.

My favorite part of the store is the on site cafe (10 am to 4:30 pm Monday to Friday and 10 am to 1:30 pm on Saturday). Using all of the Krema Nut Butters as a base – they craft over a dozen sandwich options with great flavor combinations. My two favorite sandwiches are The Kicker: Hot and Spicy Peanut Butter with raspberry preserves and The Buckeye: peanut butter with Nutella chocolate peanut butter spread. All sandwiches are served on your choice of bread. What pairs better with a PBJ o PB(something) sandwich than a milkshake. In addition to the standard Vanilla, Chocolate and Strawberry options, Krema mixes up Peanut Butter shakes (of course), PB and Jelly (perfect) and my favorite, a Buckeye shake (Chocolate and Peanut Butter). Krema developed an ingenious way to take your cafe order. They have the menu printed on a paper bag. They circle what you ordered to make sure you get everything and they you take bar coded tags for each item to the cash register in the retail section of the store to pay for your feast.

So there you have it – Krema has all of that and a bag of nuts.

Krema Nut Company
1000 West Goodale Boulevard
Grandview (more or less)
614.299.4131
(800) 222.4132

Posted in Columbus, sandwiches | 3 Comments »

CLEGourmand: Tommy’s & the Community of Coventry

Posted by CMH Gourmand on November 17, 2010

I have eaten at many of the finest dining establishments in Cleveland including Greenhouse Tavern, Muse, Amp 150, Moxie and more. All of these places must step aside for local legend Tommy’s in Coventry. Why is Tommy’s the place where you must eat in Cleveland and the best meal you will have?

I will build my case with a quote from a tweet I made at the time of my dine: Listening to Tommy tell tales about his restaurant is inspiring. He is so passionate and loves what he does & his community. Tommy’s has always been a business that cares about it’s customers and community. In the eyes of most residents of this part of town, Tommy’s is the heart of Coventry. There is something for everyone – vegan, vegetarian, carnivore, omnivore, locavore, vegetarian, vegan, macrobiotic, and gluten-free eaters have plenty to choose from here. The decision to have such a varied menu is explained in a very matter of fact way by Tommy. He shared that he keeps adding to the menu because he customers want to eat these things and as long as he can make something they will like, he will try it. Health concerns, profit margins, ecological reasons or trends are all peripheral in the food world of Tommy’s. The customer comes first. The food comes a close second with anything else considered bonus points. This is not something that can be taught at CIA or Johnson & Wales, it is not something you can learn on The Food Network. Either you get and give it or you don’t. Tommy Fello cares deeply about his restaurant, employees, customers, community and anything within this sphere. To have anything other than the best for anyone is unfathomable. Love is the magic ingredient at Tommy’s and it is infused into every aspect of the menu.

Mention Tommy’s to a Clevelander and you will hear the word milkshake within five to ten seconds. Not long after Tommy’s opened in 1972, Rolling Stone anointed Tommy’s as having the best Milkshake east of the Mississippi. There has been no evidence to dispute this in almost forty years. Here are some of the secrets to the magic of Tommy’s milkshakes. The ice cream comes from local ice cream maker Pierre’s. The milk comes from Hartzler Dairy (an organic cow farm in Wooster). The milkshakes are shaken and mixed in old milkshake machines. The thump-thump of a shake poured from the steel mixing cup to a glass is music to my ears. I proclaimed the Chocolate Peanut Butter milkshake the true Breakfast of Champions. In addition to all of the diary goodness I have mentioned, Tommy’s makes their own peanut butter, which is the star of another dish I devoured.

Readers that follow me know that breakfast is not my meal of choice. I am happy to eat breakfast at Tommy’s anytime. In part, because both the restaurant and I count a milkshake as a valid breakfast selection. I ordered Elise’s combo. This is not named after the forgotten Borden Dairy cow but after the first customer that ordered this creation (most of the selections on the menu get their names from customers/creators). The combo is a toasted triple decker sandwich with two eggs, bacon, mayonnaise, American cheese and homemade peanut butter. Yes, peanut butter. It is really good – decadent, satisfying and wholesome at the same time. I could be wrong on my opinion of Elise’s greatness but the thousands of other customers that choose this as their breakfast are clearly correct.

The menu is gigantic so I will just mention a few more highlights from the selections. The mention of Tommy’s often brings up another word – falafel. Tommy learned the recipe for falafel from his first boss (the guy he bought the original Tommy’s from). Many people say this is the best falafel ever. It is definitely served in the most varieties anywhere. There are over a dozen falafel sandwich and meal selections on the menu with additions including BBQ sauce, sesame sauce and a variety of vegetables.

Here are some random facts that might make you feel good about Tommy’s: The drinking water is filtered, fry oil is non-hydrogenated, soups are made every day, their canola oil waste is given to biodiesel folks, there is a backdoor garden and Tommy’s is the largest consumer of Muenster cheese in northeast Ohio slicing, shredding and serving 680 pounds or more per week.

Would you like some more reasons? Attached to the restaurant is a great bookstore called Mac’s Backs so you can read or browse while you wait to graze. Everything is made from scratch tofu, tempeh, stocks, cookies, etc. The Italian sauce recipes are handed down from Tommy’s mommy. Tommy’s may have the best vegetarian French Onion soup in the world made from a base of Shitake mushrooms and chickpea drippings.

Are you hungry yet? Do you have the keys for your car? What time are you picking me up? Yes, this is a place to feel excited about going to. If you have to wait for a table or if you need to burn off calories after your meals, you will find much to hold your interest in Coventry. The neighborhood created itself during the counterculture of the 1960’s and 1970’s. The Coventry community spirit remains today in a very big way. If you run into a resident of Coventry Village (which is just a few streets) you will hear many stories about Tommy – how he used to plow the sidewalks in the winter or other actions he took to support local business. If you ask Tommy he will say the same about his neighbors, he knows them all. The first person he mentions is Steve (the unofficial ambassador of Coventry) at the store Big Fun just a few sidewalk segments from the front door of Tommy’s

Big Fun is FUN. It is packed with nostalgic toys, comics, vintage video game systems, wacky t-shirts and more. If it was something that made you happy as a kid, then Big Fun probably has it or will someday. Every trip in offers something new, different or forgotten. A current Big Fun T-shirt creation is “Cleveland, You’ve Got To Be Tough.” This shirt was seen on Anthony Bourdain while he was roaming around a jungle in South America. You will see a lot of “tough” Clevelanders roaming around with and without these shirts. They have taken some hits and they keep going. In Coventry, they are tough too. A group of people created and sustained a community with tenacity and a lot of kindness to each other. They are still at it every day – serving food and fun to neighbors and visitors alike.

Tommy’s Restaurant
1824 Coventry Road, Cleveland Heights
(aka Coventry Village, East Side)
216.321.7757

Tommy’s
Mac’s Backs
Big Fun
Coventry Village

Tommy's on Urbanspoon

Posted in breakfast, CLEGourmand, Diners, kid friendly dining, Ohio, Road Trip, sandwiches | Tagged: | 7 Comments »

CLEGourmand: Hot Sauce Williams and The Polish Boy

Posted by CMH Gourmand on November 14, 2010

Hot Sauce Williams and The Polish Boy sounds like the title of a Tom Petty song or the next Tarantino action farce. Not so. These are two quintessential Cleveland food experiences. Fortunately for me I was able to find one with the other. There are plenty of Polish boys in Cleveland. There are also plenty of places which serve a sandwich by the same name. The Polish Boy base is a hot dog bun heaped with the following: Polish sausage/kielbasa (grilled or fried), a layer of French Fries, barbeque or hot sauce and a mound of cole slaw. A Polish Girl takes the same and adds a pile of pork shoulder. Now that is the type of girl I would like to get my hands on. The problem is these sandwiches are too messy to manhandle so one must endure the unmanly humiliation of eating with a fork, knife, fingers or combination thereof while constantly wiping body parts with wet naps.

The Polish Boy has received a lot of attention but not just for it’s heart attack inducing qualities. Michael Symon profiled it on the Food Network. The version Chef Symon choose was from Seti’s which also adds chili and cheese to the sandwich (the gods of massive consumption salute you Seti’s). Polish Boys have popped up in Esquire many times. Adam Richman tried one at Hot Sauce Williams. So did I.

Who is this Hot Sauce Williams? Well, it is now several restaurants not a person. In 1964, five brothers with almost no food service experience decided to buy a restaurant from a barber. Their no-name carry out operation quickly became hot, serving open pit, Mississippi-style ribs. The hot sauce was memorable and the name of the family was Williams so the neighbors called it Hot Sauce Williams. The brothers quickly opened more restaurants while their food fueled a BBQ renaissance and fed a growing blues and soul music scene in a city that is over fifty percent African American. Their menu serves up Southern comfort food classics: long and short ribs, okra, macaroni and cheese, fried fish and chicken dinners.

The place has been visited by celebrities long before the Food Network but nothing about the experience has changed. There is still a simple approach to serving here – styrofoam everything, plasticware and lots of napkins. Clean your table and pitch your trash if you eat in. The location I tried was on Lee Road, a byway I have renamed Chicken Row because you can throw a telltale rib bone in any direction and hit a rib joint, chicken shack or some type of sauced meat purveyor. I felt like an insider sliding into the Lee Road Hot Sauce Williams, it has the aura of a dive and the feel of one too. That is essential to good BBQ.

Was the food good? Absolutely! Was the experience authentic? Yes! Eating at 1 AM felt a little dangerous and seedy. The most memorable part of my meal was….the hot sauce. It is thick and dense with a molasses consistency. No matter how hard and frequently you wipe and wash during the frenzy of eating, you will find sauce on your hands and elsewhere the next day. It never leaves you. Ever.

3770 Lee Road
Cleveland
216.921.4704

Bourdain goes to Hot Sauce Williams (Carnegie Ave) with Michael Symon

Posted in CLEGourmand, Ohio, Road Trip, sandwiches | Tagged: , | Leave a Comment »

CLEGourmand: Slyman’s, The Biggest Corned Beef in Cleveland

Posted by CMH Gourmand on November 8, 2010

Slyman’s sign says they serve the biggest and best corned beef in Cleveland. There may be one or two corned beef sandwiches in the city of cleved meats that are more brined or quintessentially something or another but there are none that are bigger or served with as much pride. To date no cured meat stacker has tried to dispute the title. I opine that Slyman’s has the best corned beef in town under the mindset of the whole is infinitely greater than the sum of the parts. There are a lot of parts involved in a Slyman’s sandwich. Let’s break the elements of excellence down.

Mass:
Size does matter. Sylman’s delivers stacks of thinly sliced corned beef piled to colossal proportions. My field notes read as follows: The meat to bread ratio of a Slyman’s Corned Beef Sandwich is about 13:1. In retrospect, I believe I underestimated the bulk. A normal eater could eat a quarter of this sandwich and feel satiated. I ate a full half of my corned beef. I tried to offer the other half to the maid at my hotel. She just shook her head and said “that much meat might kill me, sir.” Indeed, but it would be a good way to go.

Lingo:
A good sandwich needs good bread, fresh ingredients, a pickle on the side, a big serving of love and etc. Slyman’s delivers on all of that. They top off the experience with lingo. Over several decades a vocabulary has developed to shorten the process of ordering a big ass sandwich. This is how one orders a corned beef sandwich at Slyman’s. Some translation will ensue with a few examples: Smurf – Swiss and Mustard; Zinger – horseradish only; Sumo – Swiss, mayonnaise and horseradish; and Blaster – Swiss, American cheese, mayonnaise and mustard.

Service:
The grill cooks and servers have been here for decades serving the working class people of the community. “Whaddaya have honey“, never sounded nicer or more authentic than when in comes from a seasoned waitress taking my order at the table. She made sure I didn’t forget anything on my sandwich, checked to make sure I picked the right side dishes to fill me up and wanted to make sure I had enough pickles. Some terms come to mind: old school, earnest and proud.

Character:
The story of Slyman’s is the same as many tales in Cleveland. People get up, go to work, work hard and keep plugging on in good times and bad for their family, friends and neighbors. Good, honest work is a reward in itself and pride is served with a kind word and a can of pop. Slyman’s opened in the 1960’s. An immigrant family decided to make a go in the restaurant business knowing they would not get rich, but they would always have something to eat. Freddie Sylman tells the story of his father, who was asked “Mr Slyman, why do you make your sandwiches so big?” The reply, “To thank America for my freedom.” My response, WOW!

Hundreds of celebrities have supped on sandwiches at Slyman’s over the years, surrounded by a growing collection of Three Stooges decor (no one is sure how this started, they just know it started with a customer bringing something in) and hard working people of both sides of the counter, getting through the day with a smile and some serious hustle. A Slyman’s corned beef sandwich is a greater equalizer and a great thing to share.

Slymans is a landmark and an icon. It is a taste of Cleveland, not just the food, but the character of the city and the people. Slyman’s is the real Cleveland and serves the simple food that keeps things moving along. Sylman’s does have the biggest corned beef in Cleveland served with a lot of heart.

Slyman’s Restaurant
3106 St.Clair Avenue
Cleveland
216. 621.3760

Open Monday to Friday
6:00 am to 2:30 pm

Slyman on Urbanspoon

Posted in CLEGourmand, Gastronomic Stimulus, Ohio, Road Trip, sandwiches | Tagged: , , | 4 Comments »

Freshbox Frenzy: Feed Your Appetite. Nourish Your Community

Posted by CMH Gourmand on October 15, 2010

I seem adept at creating opportunities for others so continuing with that habit, today, I introduce you to Lindsay Warren a food enthusiast and general raconteur on the “reg”. Story by Ms. Warren. Photos and consumption by CMH Gourmand. The scene: the workplace at one of my jobs.

Recently I introduced my co-workers to a new lunch option that is not only really delicious but meaningful to our community as well: FreshBox Catering. This boxed-lunch business is the brainchild of dear friend of mine, Joe DeLoss, Chief Sandwich Operator and Social Enterprise Director of the Lutheran Social Services of Central Ohio. It’s his vision for profitable social change and gusto for delicious, fresh food to come together to create this dynamite win of a catering business. Let’s discuss.

First, a boxed lunch from Freshbox is not what you found in your superman lunchbox when you were 10. Freshbox delivers a tasty little package comprised of sandwich, pickle spear, kettle chips, apple, and (drooling as I type) a chocolate-covered Oreo. There are six sandwich options served on either ciabatta or wheat bread. Or, if you’re going the bread-free route, their signature salads are served with all the above yummy extras, too.

We placed our order a day before delivery by ordering online. The next day our Freshbox delivery person navigated through the maze of our cubicle farm to deliver our lunches. Everything came perfectly as ordered, on time, fresh and ready to be devoured. Having just celebrated their first anniversary, Joe and his tiny family of lunch-boxers are doing a great job of keeping up this reputation of great service. Just take a look at Bloomberg Business Week – Joe is a 2010 finalist for America’s Best Young Entrepreneur!

Our small group hit almost every sandwich option on the menu.

The Red Caprese features fresh mozzarella, tomatoes and roasted red peppers on ciabatta with basil pesto on the side. So simple, so delicious, and so satisfying. A great vegetarian option!

The Prime lays on layers of roast beef with roasted red peppers, provolone and shaved red onions. The side of horseradish aioli is super-important, don’t be shy about loading this on!

We did a little family-style sharing of the Roasted Red Pepper Hummus served with cucumbers, tomatoes and warm, chewy pita bread. Some of our co-workers were weary of what they might get for $9 but they were wowed by their meals. Considering the quality of the ingredients, the cause and the delivery, they found the price to be reasonable.

In the Freshbox job-training model, employees learn everything from important food safety techniques to engaging in the banking system. The aim is to find people with a disadvantage in the workforce (someone that is homeless, a person with a developmental disability or other barriers to entry level employment) ann opportunity to build job skills or create a fresh start. Not only is Freshbox serving us tasty little lunches, it’s empowering our friends in need with job skills that will carry them to independence. So if you’re looking for a new lunch option, go no further than the church basement kitchen of Freshbox, located at the corner of 3rd and Broad Streets downtown. No doubt you will be delighted with the quality of your lunch and you will be satisfied with contributing to the purpose behind Freshbox!

Posted in food, sandwiches | Tagged: , | 1 Comment »

Si Senor: Yes Sir, it is good

Posted by CMH Gourmand on July 18, 2010

With a name like Si Senor, I was wary. Well, very wary of what might lie inside. I envisioned low end, Mexican fast food. I was pleasantly surprised. Si Senior is not your typical Mexican restaurant, because the owners are from Peru. It is not a Mexican restaurant at all. The restaurant has only been open a few months but has quickly become a downtown lunchtime standby. Things have been going well enough for the family business to move into a larger space just next door to their original location. Now that they have elbow room and can fit more than one employee behind the counter, Si Senor is looking forward to making some expansions in the menu as well.

The cooks behind the counter have taken the friendly format of a sandwich and with a bit of slight of spatula, slipped in a phenomenal palate pleasing fusion of Latin flavors. A lot of work goes into the ingredients before serving. The cooks smoke and roast all of their meats. They make nearly everything from scratch in house such as avocado mayonnaise, jalapeno relish, and Chimichurri dressing. They also make refreshing smoothies with fresh mango, pineapple and papaya.

The owner is joined by his wife and brother as well as a few others. All have extensive restaurant experience and were ready to make the jump into the business as owners instead of manager and cooks. They enjoy the direct connection they have with customers since the small space allows the cooks to see diners eating Si Senor creations from their vantage point at the grill. As with any new business they are looking to add items to the menu and work out the best way to serve their customers – which may mean a change to table service in the future.

Meatloaf Sandwich with pasta salad

For now, the focus is on making under a dozen sandwiches and a few salads. I tried the Chicharron Peruano a sandwich with Peruvian style fried pork shoulder served with pickled onions and sweet potato mayonnaise on a ciabatta bread. I also sampled the Meatloaf Sandwich – a mix of chorizo and ground beef with poblanos, onions, tomato jam (chutneyesque) and manchego cheese. I liked this very much.

I wish I had room for the the Latin style turkey breast club (roasted turkey, Applewood bacon, avocado mayonnaise and more) and the Peruvian style chicken salad (pulled chicken, pineapple, celery, walnuts, and potato sticks).

Tres Leches

I did have room for an absolutely divine Tres Leches cake made in house. The cake was rich, dense and creamy with all the milky goodness that good tres leches can deliver. It also has a nice layer of vanilla icing which added to the flavor of the cake.

I enjoyed chatting and talking shop talk with the owners during the downtime. It turns out they are cousins of the other Peruvian family I know in Columbus – the Garcias of Jack and Benny’s fame. Due to customer feedback and demand, Si Senor is now open Saturdays from Noon to 4 PM. They are offering one traditional Peruvian entree/meal of Saturdays to show off their family favorites and share their culture with the community.

While the set up is for quick service, the atmosphere is a bit more upscale with a lot of thought and effort invested in making the dining area comfortable and relaxed.

Si Senor
20 East Long Street
Downtown
614.227.0070
614.227.0071 (fax orders)

Posted in restaurants, sandwiches | Tagged: | 3 Comments »

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