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Darrell’s Donuts: A Tale of Two Brothers (The Ohio Donut Trail)

Posted by CMH Gourmand on February 15, 2012

In the pre Donut Trail days, there was only one donutery that mattered to me. Donald’s Donuts in Zanesville (circa 2010). My job at the time took me to Zanesville every few months. I often had a few minutes between appointments and Donald’s was always in between point A and point B. There was nothing else of notice in the realm of food along my route. Donald’s old, lime green sign lured me in. My expectations were low. I was wooed on my first bite and soon hailed Donald’s as the best in the state. While my donut horizons expanded widely with my waistline since then, I still believe Donald’s is easily in the top five, if not the top three in the Buckeye state. Donald’s kindled an interest in donuts and a belief they could be good.

After so many trips and so much talk about Donald’s I was taken aback when someone finally asked…”but what about Darrell’s?” Huh, What, Where, um really? Yes. Darrell’s is also a Zanesville donutery and the owner is the brother of Donald. This reeked of Urban Legend and Hatfields and McCoys (my kin) or Goumas and Goumas. I noted the story but filed it away. After I heard about Darrel’s it took over a year for me to get there. And while rumors were that there was a rift, such is/was not the case (as updated in 2015 by a son of one of the owners: I’m adding part of his comments below): “the boys did not work for their father, actually the family opened a donut shop in Cherokee NC — Darrell still lived in Zanesville Ohio and was not part of that business. This occurred in the 1950s. Donalds was established in the south end of Zanesville. The business moved from Pine Street to Maysville pike. The current location on Maple opened in 1984 and the opening of Darrells in 1978 had nothing to do with a recipe just his desire to have his own business. Sorry the legend doesn’t live up.

Darrell’s does not look like much from the outside. This place blends together with other shops in a small strip mall. On the inside, it is homey and is bathed in Americanness. The woman behind the counter was as friendly as she could be and was happy to answer all types of questions about the Donald and Darrell connection (which later turned out to not quite be completely accurate).

What you are all interested in is which is better. That is not an easy question. Passing Zanesville via I-70, which 99% of you will do if you are inclined to pass through, neither place is near an exit. Donald’s is the closer of the two. Driving to Darrell’s I was convinced I had missed it several times and I saw a lot of Zanesville I did not care to see (I was also tricked by a diner that looked great on the outside but served out of the box food on the inside). Darrell’s has a wider range of items to choose from and a significantly friendlier staff. It is the type of place where you would order a donut then lounge around talking high school sports for four or five hours. Donald’s is a grab ’em and go place. I would give a very slight edge to Donald’s in most categories of donuts but Darrell’s does shine in the iced category and in the full customer experience. Darrell’s also serves pastries and makes one of the best counter served brownies in the business.

Donald’s has the cool retro bag while Darrell’s offered me the hand-lettered and illustrated box of donuts. While I was sampling and photographing I made small talk with an elderly gentleman wandering the country. He has just discovered Darrell’s after a very wrong turn and on one bite considered Darrell’s among the best he had anywhere. I supported his choice and told him of Donald’s as an incentive to head back to Zanesville again on his return journey. You can’t go wrong with either place or either recipe. Sandwich a trip to Tom’s Ice Cream Bowl in the middle and one could have a very sweet trip to the Y-Bridge city. As for the split, the end result was two donut shops and two really good versions of Midwestern Maple Glazed donuts, I think we got the best ends of the deal or the feud or whatever the split was and became. If Donald and Darrell have another brother Darrell, then even better, just place the donut shop right by exit 169 if you don’t mind.

1 N Maysville Ave
Zanesville
740.454.0332

Darrell's Donuts on Urbanspoon

Posted in donuts, Ohio Donut Trail, Road Trip | Tagged: , | 11 Comments »

Ray Ray’s Takes a Swing at Wings and Hits a Homerun

Posted by CMH Gourmand on February 7, 2012

The subtitle of this post may be mythbusters. This writer has heard two mobile myths perpetuated of late: Mobile food is a fad and food trucks can’t make a living year round. Enter Ray Ray’s.

Jaime (Ray Ray) Anderson continues to prove that with a good product, a little business sense and a lot of hard work, a person can make a good living from a mobile food truck or trailer. Ray Ray’s has served BBQ from the same location for over two years. Ray Ray’s stays open through the winter, serving 52 weeks each year. Jaime takes opportunities to try out new menu items such as smoked turkeys for Thanksgiving and Christmas as well a grass fed beef special on Sunday’s. For Superbowl Sunday, he decided to serve wings and the results were……take a look for yourself. When I visited, the line was fifty people deep and still growing.

If you grill it, BBQ it or cook it right, they will come. You might have to wait for the next Superbowl for wings….but maybe not, seems like it would be a good item for fall tailgating.

Posted in CLOSED, Gastronomic Stimulus | Tagged: | 1 Comment »

Street Meat Myths: An Editorial

Posted by CMH Gourmand on January 11, 2012

Disclaimer:

The opinions expressed in this work are my own and should not be construed as the views of my friends, family, anyone who employs me or uses me as a consultant, current or ex-girlfriends, definitely anyone that dislikes me or the citizens of Singapore. The opinions are probably shared by my dog. My opinions are clearly well-reasoned, insightful and may be a staggering work of genius.

As for you as a reader of this blog, I know I am preaching to the choir.

Recently there was an article in The Columbus Dispatch about placing Food Trucks in Franklinton as a means to help grow an area of town looking for a boost and to create a few jobs. Neat idea, everyone wins. Hooray!

Well…no. There is a vocal minority in our city who have a deep-seated hatred for mobile food. There is also a sizeable apathetic majority who don’t care one way or the other.

This is not a surprise to me. I have encountered these concerns since 2009 when Andy, Bethia and I started the Taco Trucks Columbus website. From our perspective we were sharing a hidden part of Columbus culinary culture with the world. The number and the quality of Taco Trucks in Columbus sets our city apart from any city in the Midwest and most in the country. It has drawn nationwide attention. It puts Columbus on a map. It proves our city has diversity. The food is VERY good.

But to some people, this does not matter. Many detractors have never eaten at a Taco Truck yet they are fast to make all types of allegations about the legitimacy of these businesses. In my experience these accusations were often just thin veils for racism. Harsh words but true.

The non Taco Truck scene of Street Food is on the upswing in Columbus. We are looking at the sophomore year of the new wave of Mobile Fooders this spring. Even with the additional diversity to our Street Meats, there is still some strong negative feedback. The best example from last year involved Yerba Buena. This trailer is the mobile expansion of a very popular Venezulan restaurant called El Arepazo. The trailer set up on a vacant property in the middle of Clintonville with the permission of the property owner. It was enjoyed by the community. And then reports of complaints were forwarded by a Clintonville Area Commissioner. This came as a surpise by many in the neighborhood since north Clintonville has limited restaurant options and the food served by Yerba Buena was considered very good. There is some speculation that the “many” complaints came from one person. Considering I had a conversation about mobile food with the person speculated as the one man army of complaint generation before Yerba Buena hit the scene in Clintonville, I am inclined to agree that the concerns were single-minded….from a single person. Yerba Buena had to move to a less customer friendly location and due to less foot traffic, they has to shut down early for the season. This was a loss for Clintonville which has developed an under the radar mobile food scene. As a very interesting aside, I would like to point out that there has been a mobile food operation located at Blenheim and Indianola (in Clintonville) for over a decade. This operation (less than a mile from the original location of Yerba Buena) received no reports of complaints. Was Yerba Buena targeted? Maybe. An additional note. I live in Clintonville. My neighbors want mobile food since there are limited locations and opportunities to open traditional brick and mortar restaurants in our neighborhood.

Am I biased about this topic, absolutely, however, that does not negate my ability to use reason and good sense. I have been deeply invested in the world of mobile food for over two years. I know it is not a fad. It is a resurging style of business that is trending more now to the mainsteam due to a limping economy. Is Mobile Food good for our communities and our local economies? Yes. I say this without reluctance or reservation.

I now make a living by helping people start a mobile or non mobile food business. I see people literally everyday who have a dream and a desire to build something of their own. I get to help most of them do that. For many going mobile is the only way that can realize that dream. The costs to start a new brick and mortar restaurant are beyond the budgets of most of the 99% and too risky for most banks. I am a board member of the Central Ohio Restaurant Association, I am not going to support anything to break a brick and mortar restaurant business. Mobile food is not a threat to brick and mortar businesses, in fact it can be a boon. Many established restaurants are looking for ways to make mobile work for them by having their own mobile operations. Columbus is considered by many to have one of the hottest food truck scenes this side of the Mississipi. As a city, we have the opportunity to support this concept and add it to the identity of Columbus. Unfortunately, there is a vocal minority who are not on board and seem intent on derailing any efforts to make our city a mobile food destination.

Mobile Food also allows a business person to take a risk on a menu concept or a part of town that no one else is willing or able to do. New businesses mobile or brick and mortar bring new life and vibrancy to forgotten parts of town. This is currently going on in Old Town East.


OK. Take a break and a stretch then come back to keep reading because I am just getting started.


Now back to The Columbus Dispatch article.

There were some supportive comments, but most were, well. read for yourself. I am copying the less inflammatory comments in italics and responding to and debunking each.

This should be combined with Coleman’s gang-control xbox events at the community centers. Park ’em outside the rec centers and let everyone experience the brilliance that is Columbus. Seriously though, taco and fancy desert trucks parked in front of an empty ghetto store front aren’t about to attract many into the hoods – where do these people get these ideas…. and why is the Dispatch dumb enough to print them? oh that’s right, Portland did it!

Hmm, a new food concept attracting people to the hoods (or anywhere)? Could it happen? Yes. Once upon a time there was a place in Columbus called the Short North. In the 1980’s, it was a seedy part of town. A couple of businesses took a chance and planted roots along High Street. One of these pioneers was Rigsbys Kitchen. People came. The area grew. How did they attract people to this area? One idea was to have a Gallery Hop once per month. Other examples where mobile food has helped grow an area down on its luck: South Congress neighborhood of Austin, Texas, Oakland, California and Cleveland.

Hmm. New, independent food business sets up in a part of town coming off the skids, add some art and…..the Short North has a rebirth. Wacky, crazy. How could FOOD+ART=Progress?

“Portland did it!”
Yes they did and minus a few speed bumps its has worked well and added to the identity of the city. You know what else I want Columbus to steal from Portland….more bike lanes and microbreweries.

This is another way to blight an area. Food trucks come in and take business from brick and mortar eating establishments and some will go out of business. This is another bone head move. Don’t let it happen.

The people I have spoken with in Franklinton don’t share this view. There are limited dining options in Franklinton, especially on the evening and weekends. There is a need for more food choices and a desire to grow, nurture and support new, small independent businesses. I know and have spoken with two Franklinton area restaurant owners. They are not concerned about losing business to a food truck, they want more people to come to Franklinton…because they care about the community and have a desire to attract new customers as well. Statements about food trucks killing a brick and mortar restaurant are frequently made, but to date, I have yet to have anyone give me a real life example where this happened….anywhere.

What a moron idea that is. Is it art or food or what? Anyway it cheapens an area to see skanky taco trucks parked. What about health concerns and are they paying taxes? This is unfair to restaurants who follow all of the rules.

Let’s start with health concerns.

Taco Trucks (an all mobile vendors) are inspected by the Columbus Board of Health. Each truck should display a green Columbus Health Department Color Coded Inspection Sign with the date of the last inspection. Inspections occur at least once per year, just like any restaurant or food supplier. Taco Truck owners must have a peddlers license as well.

Health Department Tested, CMH Gourmand Approved

Health Department Tested, CMH Gourmand Approved

A yellow health department tag means the truck has been warned about a health code issue and is on probation while they implement recommended changes – so menu items may be limited. A red sticker indicates a major health code violation and the business is closed.

Mobile food vendors, including taco trucks, can get a bad rap. Hot dog carts and hamburger stands fought these same stereotypes in the 20th century as they evolved into American icons. How many restaurant kitchens have you seen? This writer has seen some very scary kitchens behind closed doors. Mobile Food vendors operate open kitchens – customers can see every step in the preparation process for start to serving time. If you are wary of a truck – order the cheapest item – watch how it is prepared. If something gives you the creeps – pay, walk away and call the Health department, cut your losses and move on to the next truck. The owner of the truck is often the one cooking your food. He or she depends on repeat business to stay in business and cleanliness is the key to happy customers and health inspectors. The inspectors make regular spot checks on mobile food vendors just as they do for restaurants, grocery stores, fair food stands and elsewhere. So the answer is: mobile food operations are as clean as any other food you eat and in this case – at least you can see it before you eat it.

And….part two: are they paying taxes? This is unfair to restaurants who follow all of the rules.

Do mobile food vendors pay taxes. Yes. They also pay rent, buy liability insurance, fork over cash for a peddlers permit, sign on the dotted line for several licenses and inspections with the city Health and Public Safety Departments, buy gas at your local gas station, purchase food from local purveyors and follow the same guidelines and expectations as a restaurant. If mobile food operations don’t follow the rules, they get cited and go out of business quickly.

What a wonderful idea..to consider a bunch of itinerant “roach coaches” as art. Ptomaine Tomas never had it so good. Just not quite like the present day Hawker Centres in Singapore. But, then the economic vitality is not quite the same in Columbus, OH either. There is no way a service based economy that Columbus has descended into will ever achieve the greatness of it’s long lost industrial/manufacturing economic base.

I am going to be snarky here. Read the article again – the trucks are not the art component of these plans. As for the other comments, well, they reflect the writer.

Too many restaurants are at their margin between staying afloat or going under. Hoggy’s just closed all but one location and these typhoid trucks on wheels want to serve food on the fly. No thanks.

Why are these restaurants going under? Hoggys was not put into receivership by a food truck nor has any other restaurant in Columbus. To my knowledge, I can not recall any food truck that has ever been in a mile of any Hoggy’s location. One reason restaurants go under….they are expensive to run and difficult to staff. The money that it takes to open a new restaurant in this economy is just not viable or sustainable for most people. Competition is good for any business as long as the playing field is fair. Most mobile operators would say the deck is more stacked against them than a brick and mortar restaurant when current city regulations and weather are considered….I agree.

The food trucks explosion has boomed in both downtown Cleveland and Fountain Square in Cincy but of course this is Columbus where it won’t be done properly and will get no support. Soooooo Columbus……

There is support, we just need to grow it. We can do this properly in Columbus and we can do this better than Cleveland, Cincinnati and any other city in the country with some minor tweaks in city legislation, good menu concepts and a zero tolerance for inaccurate and misleading statements that are presented as fact.

Those in the (real) food business know that food trucks are an invitation to problems. The lack of adequate running water and sewer service is an issue. Also many food trucks use many ice chests instead of refrigerators. Ice cannot keep food at the required temperatures as set by the health department standards. It would be safe to say mobile food trucks are not healthy.

I have been in the (real) food business. I still work with and represent people who are in the REAL food business. It is not safe to say mobile food trucks are not healthy…it is outright incorrect. All mobile operations are required to have a three compartment sink and a hand washing sink and they do. As for sewer service….I’m not sure how that is supposed to apply to this situation. Mobile carts are required to (and do) operate from a licensed commissary for food storage, grease and cooking oil disposal and such so they can comply with health and safety guidelines.

Part two: Also many food trucks use many ice chests instead of refrigerators.

Really? Which ones? This not something I have encountered. If so, it what ways were the ice chests used illegally or not in compliance to health code regulations. Again, food carts, trucks and trailers are inspected by the Health Department to make sure they are in compliance with the law (as are restaurants). Operators have to take a food safety class (I took it, it is good and offered in several languages). There are some “bad” mobile operators out there but in my observations the percentage is no higher than the “bad” restaurants. Vote with your pocketbook and if you have a legitimate concern report it, but don’t feed ignorance with assumptions and inaccurate statements.

A final serving of food for thought. When White Castle started in the 1920’s they dealt with many of the same myths of health issues, taxes, etc. These negative comments are a product of fear of something new and ignorance, these are rarely based on a real expereince.

And so ends my editorial.

-soapbox scooted away,
–lights dimmed,
—throat cleared in a dignified manner,
—- exit stage left.

Posted in culinary knowledge, Gastronomic Stimulus | Tagged: , , , | 13 Comments »

Listen Up! One Hour WCBE Foodcast: Monday January 2nd

Posted by CMH Gourmand on December 28, 2011

We have a really big show coming up. Twelve times better in fact. Our weekly five minute radio program is going to be twelve times longer for our special hour long (first of 2012) show.

The show airs on the dial at WCBE 90.5 FM, 1 pm on Monday January 2nd. If you miss it, there is no need to fear….the interwebs are here. Audio for each show as well as links are posted at WCBE FoodCast

This episode of Foodcast features an introduction of Mike Beaumont, our producer and sound engineer; the back story of our theme song, our typical ranting and four interviews with food folks that made a mark in 2011 and who plan to do more of the same in 2012. Our Liz Lessner interview has a world premiere announcement about a new restaurant venture (not the Grass Skirt).

So listen up. Tune in often and tell all your friends. Good Night and Good Luck.

Posted in Columbus, food | Tagged: | Leave a Comment »

Small Bytes: Pistacia Vera – Brunch and Other Stuff

Posted by CMH Gourmand on December 17, 2011

I had an axe to grind regarding brunch at Pistacia Vera. Don’t get me wrong, I love Pistacia Vera and I think the world of Spencer and Anne. Here’s the thing, as you know, I am not a fan of breaking fast (reasons outlined logically in previous posts). I might even be the Grinch of breakfast. I was miffed during the most recent Dine Originals Week. Historically my Dine Originals Week ritual is to get the $10 Pistacia Vera tasting box to cap off the week. Well, last time there was no box just a brunch deal. Hrumph!

I started to hear high praise for the brunch options from many credible sources. I am not a fan of quiche (only because it is so often prepared poorly) but quiches as well as Shirred Eggs and a Cottage Ham & Brie Sandwich were repeatedly mentioned in my presence. Hmm. Sandwich on a Pistacia Vera Croissant….I could do that and sniff out these other offerings in the process.

I went on a reconnaissance meal with my diner-in-chief. I was happy to see Jim Budros sweeping the front walk at the German Village shop (Jim is a BBQ Master, Pizza Purist and father of Anne and Spencer). Looking at the menu, I was hooked so we committed to two dine in brunch options.

We tried the Shirred Eggs: two eggs, baked in cream with parmigiano, oregano, garlic, herbs, and tomato fondue. This is served with a toasted, sliced croissant and house-made preserves.

The verdict? Superior, perfect, excellent. This now on my top three breakfast/brunch picks (the other two being the Pattycake Bakery Orange Sticky Bun and the Egg Sandwich at Explorer’s Club).

Selection number two was the Cottage Ham and Brie Breakfast sandwich: smoked cottage ham, fromage d’affinois, Dijon mustard, cornichons, fresh greens on a toasted whole wheat croissant. Thoughts on this one? Also excellent, easy to share and conveniently, could hold its own in the lunch category.

These two entrees made for a great meal, but there is much more than makes brunch at Pistacia Vera special and well worth the effort. Columbus is fortunate to have several excellent coffee roasters. One that tends to stay off the radar due to a consumer unfriendly approach to opening hours is Cafe Brioso. Pistacia Vera serves several Briso blends and sells bags of ground Briso coffees. Having access to this coffee to drink and buy at more customer friendly hours is a boon. Pairing Pistacia Vera with Brioso is genius.

Maybe this is starting to read like a commercial or product endorsement? Well, this paragraph is brought to you by Pistacia Vera Preserves. My modest serving with the Cottage Ham and Brie sandwich was good enough to inspire me to purchase two jars. If you are reading this before Christmas, a few purchases at Pistacia Vera could cure your own Grinchness or make you the hero of a holiday gift exchange.

And, let’s not forget the primary reason to visit Pistachia Vera – chocolates, macaroons, tortes and more, oh my! We opted for a pre-brunch appetizer of a Buche de Noel (Christmas Log). A slice of log is a great way to celebrate the season and Pistacia Vera makes the best in Columbus.

Humbug? I am now the Grinch who ate breakfast. Thanks Pistacia Vera. One final, but vital note. the Hot Chocolate at Pistacha Vera is the best in town. Better and less expensive than Northstar and Jeni’s. This proclamation may be sacrilege to these two culinary holy cows but if you charge $4.50 for hot chocolate it should be orgasmic, Pistacia Vera hits the mark at $3. Now I am off to put antlers on CMH Tobias.

Pistacia Vera
541 South Third Street
German Village
614.220.9070

Pistacia Vera on Urbanspoon

Posted in bakery, beverages, breakfast, chocolate, desserts | Tagged: | 3 Comments »

Green B.E.A.N. Delivery: My First Volley Against Winter

Posted by CMH Gourmand on November 30, 2011

I have several friends who subscribe to CSA’s. I know a few people who grow food for, fill bags for and who are a bit disappointed that I have never gotten one of their CSA or market bags. Does that make me a bad person….yes. At the end of the last winter I discovered the power a giant pile of vegetables has to fight back against the weariness of the season (thanks again Chef’s Garden). This year, I am filling up my arsenal against winter “meh” early.

Green B.E.A.N. Delivery combines some aspects of a CSA with elements of some home delivery services. Unlike a traditional CSA, Green B.E.A.N. delivers all year. In contrast to home delivery, there is a core group of items you can expect to receive which you can add to or subtract from as long as the order total is $35 or more. You can order once or every week. They also have a new office bin program to deliver health snacks to offices.

Green B.E.A.N. services six Midwestern Metropolitan areas including Columbus (Cincinnati, Dayton, Ft. Wayne, Indianapolis, and Louisville too, if you are counting). The company started in 2007 with green goals including making “healthy and sustainably grown local food affordable, accessible, and convenient.” Based on my order, my observation is they are achieving their goals. As for the bean part – this is what it stands for: “B.E.A.N. is an acronym that represents our core initiatives; Biodynamic, Education, Agriculture, and Nutrition.”

Local produce and artisanal foods are sourced when possible. If not available respected organic purveyors and ecologically sound companies are sourced from. These were some of the familiar names I could include in my order: Stan Evans Bakery, Blue Jacket Diary, Frog Ranch Pickles and Salsas, Luna Burger, Shagbark tortilla chips and City BBQ sauces (yes, really). The rest of the selections are regionally or nationally sourced from brands suchs as Naked, Kashi and Bolthouse. Other than beverages (I would love someone to deliver beer and wine to my house) and toiletries/detergent I could fill about 90% of my typical store list via Greenbean Delivery. Looking at the price points for the add-on items, the service is still reasonable when time, gas and other intangible costs are factored in.

I came home from work last Thursday to find this on my porch –

Inside was a reusable styrofoam cooler to keep my food cool. There was also an ice pack sealed in a ziplock bag to protect my produce and dry goods from a leaky source of coldness. (As someone who has ordered ice cream online and received melting mess in response, these small touches make a big difference). For $35 this is what I received: 1 Edible Columbus Magazine (comes free if you want one), 1 pack of Stan Evan’s Crackers ($6.75), 1 F2K Cranberry Almond Bar ($2.50)((It was really good)), 2 Butternut squashes, 1 large bunch of carrots, green beans, 1 bag of Klamath Pearl Potatoes, 4 Gala apples, 3 Navel Oranges, 2 avacados, 2 limes, 1 bag of mushrooms and 1 large head of Romaine lettuce. I opted out of the onions from my order and did not request a replacement.

So, you can adjust the produce to some extent but similar to a CSA you may find yourself challenged by getting an array of items you may not select on automatic pilot at the store. (I am a creature of habit, you can predict what I will pick up at the store with 99% accuracy. Many who know me and know how much I eat out (um, this is for professional reasons people, I do it all for you) often wonder if I can cook. I can, my specialties are most notably the hot dog arts, chili and soups. But looking at what I received – nothing daunting. I made several salads. Lime + Avacado = Guacamole. Green beans and potatoes was a staple as a kid and the non fruit leftovers made for a good soup.

I ordered the small produce bin which is intended for two to three people. It was a bit too much for me but if I get the bin two to three times per month it should work out well for CMH Tobias and I. (P.S. Green B.E.A.N. Delivery, my dog would like to see some dog treats and organic, grass fed rabbit in your mix).

The final verdict? Would I order again, yes. For the month of January I can probably avoid leaving my house at all using Greenbean Delivery. That is a good idea because I have a lot of blog posts to wrap up.

To learn more about what Green B.E.A.N. Delivery does in the the community take a look at their Facebook page.

Greenbean website

Green B.E.A.N. Delivery Ohio website

Green B.E.A.N. Delivery on Facebook

Disclaimer / Disclosure:
(I was contacted by Green B.E.A.N. Delivery with an offer to try a bin for free. At the time I had a 50% off coupon for them from Baconcamp and I was deciding on when to use it. So I saw that as a sign to take action. I do not often write in exchange for a product and when I do, if I don’t care for it, then I don’t mention it. That is my policy on such matters.)

Posted in culinary knowledge, Vegetarian Friendly | Tagged: , | 4 Comments »

Writer’s Block?

Posted by CMH Gourmand on November 19, 2011

Sorry for another pause in content. Prepare for an onslaught of posts in the next two weeks. In the previous six weeks I left a job and started a new career, traveled in Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine, Pittsburgh, Cleveland (x2), Huron, Sandusky and Zanesville. I have donuts, restaurants, wineries, breweries, food trucks and Green Bean Delivery to write about. I also gained 20 pounds in the process. I promised CMH Tobias I would stay home more than 8 hours in a row to get caught up with him….and you. As for the new gig, I get to take this, this and this to help Columbus mobile food vendors grow their businesses. Cool, fun….meaningful.

And I have a new blog to launch – Bricks of Ohio Blog (BOB).

Stay tuned or watch your RSS feed for more.

And finally, what do you think about WCBE Foodcast?

Posted in food | 2 Comments »

Explorers Club: My First Expeditions

Posted by CMH Gourmand on October 23, 2011

I am pleased. I am happy. Darn it, I might even use the word ecstatic! I have waited ten years and two months for this sign.

So what is the big deal? The Explorer’s Club is open. Yes, it is a restaurant. Ricky Barnes is cooking in the kitchen and Tracy Studer is guiding the front of the house. If you don’t recognize these names then you probably did not dine out in Columbus from the early 1990’s to 2001 (The Galaxy Cafe, Lost Planet Pizza and Pasta, Ricky’s Galaxy). Ricky and Tracy describe the Explorer’s Club as the Galaxy grown up. A few of the dishes and all of the flavors of Galaxies past are on the menu. The menu, decor and focus on service reflect changes in Tracy, Ricky and the rest of us during the last decade.

So a blast from the past has returned. Many eaters from the Columbus dining scene of old have fond memories of Ricky’s culinary accomplishments. Another element adding to the bigness of the deal is the location. I have discussed growing downtown dining and why this is important to the city. A good restaurant can be a foundation or launching point for a community (for example Yellow Brick Pizza and Angry Baker in Olde Town East). The Explorer’s Club is located on South High in Merion Village. The plucky neighborhood has limited eating options within their community, so a successful restaurant with good food can be a vibrant asset to the area. A past effort in the space, Coyote Jane’s, was a horrible disappointment (Did I just write something negative? Yes, and readers know I never do that. I will say the food, service and, well, everything was memorable, but not because it was good).

So with all of this good karma swelling up I must admit I had some trepidation. This was like revisiting an old flame. Are things ever as good as we remember them? I changed, they changed. Was the awesomeness of the Galaxy just a fond memory I had built up over the years. What if I did not like it? More importantly, what if you don’t like it. I don’t know if I can deal with the Galaxy imploding again the Explorer’s Club closing it’s doors.

I visited during a dry run night and ate for free. I went the next two days for brunch and was happy to pay for meals just as good at a good value. The verdict: YES! wonderful, near perfect, exciting, tasty. The menu may have an aspect of nostalgia but the flavor is there and a explorers spirit of pushing the limits. Considering the Explorer’s Club was open just to test drive the menu, train new servers and cooks and for experimenting with a few ideas, the end result was spectacular. I typically don’t try out a new restaurant for at least a month after opening so they can work out any kinks and I can walk through the door with reasonable expectations. On paper the Explorer’s Club should not have had much of a chance to blow me away based on my fervent loyalty of the past. I am looking forward to what the Explorer’s Club can do with a more seasoned staff and a few weeks of menu enhancements. Changes are already in the works. A bar menu is in the process of development as well as a limited selection of cocktails.

The food and the music is impressively sourced locally when possible. Here is a list of some of the local purveyors used:

Used Kids Records (the genres of music mix well with the menu)
Growers First / Crimson Cup (Coffee and Tea)
Shagbark Seed and Mill Company (from my food first favorite Athens, Ohio)
Gerber cage free, organic vegetarian fed chicken
OSU Agricultural egg hormone and antibiotic free pork
Stutzman Farms (grains/flour)

Not local, but definitely reflective of the restaurant, is where the artwork is sourced from. Most of the prints are by Jeb Loy Nichols, Wales UK.

Nichol’s portraits of famous or infamous names you may have heard include: John Coltrane, Amelia Earhart, Hank Aaron, Wendell Berry, Miles Davis, Nina Simone, Harvey Milk and Woody Gutherie. All were pioneers in their fields and times. The tagline of the Explorers Club is Simple – Pioneering – Flavor. The Galaxy was a pioneer in Columbus dining in the day and today, Explorers Club has taken that spirit and refined it. Staking a claim in Merion Village could be pioneering as well, I hope others will follow to add to the spice of this neighborhood.


So after all of this historical and philosophic foreplay, it is time to focus on the food.

Dinner was my first experience (note a few menu items may change of get tweaked by the time you travel to the Explorer’s Club. The item I hoped to see the most was black bean hummus. It is on the menu and is now served with garlic citrus pizza bread (looks and tastes like the best pita bread I have ever had). The hummus is great. I do miss the giant pool of garlic sauce that topped the 1993 – 2001 version but since that causes significant “personal space” issues for me, I figure it was omitted for the safety of the general public.

I also ordered the chicken quesadilla with charred salsa and sour cream. The salsa packed some significant heat but paired with the cool sour cream accentuated the flavors of everything on the plate.

The winner of the dinner entrees selected was the beef brisket (with black beans, redskin potatoes and jalapeno slaw). The brisket fell apart with very light pressure from my fork. It has a complimentary mix of flavors in the broth to spice things up. My dining companion is not a fan of the jalapeno but she found the proportion of pepper to slaw to be perfect balance of heat and cool.

For dessert there was only one choice I could allow, another blast from my past, Mrs. Barnes Pumpkin Dessert (I recalled this being called Surpise). Oh, yes. This is no pumpkin pie. It is served with cream and fresh berries. It might best be described as a fusion of cake, pie and cheesecake. It is good, that is all that matters.

I woke up the following day and got some of the old gang together to go back from brunch (after college a group of six to ten of us were there almost every Saturday for one or two meals). Longtime readers know I have little interest in breakfast with very few exceptions, Explorers Club is on the short list. I liked my group meal so much I went back the next day solo to sample the only item I did not try the day before.

Another menu item I was passionately, desperately, pathetically hoping for was museli. This simple dish was the hallmark for all other museli experiences in my life, with the exception of a serving I had in Zug, Switzerland every subsequent museli left me wanting and musing about why Ricky would create something so good and take it away. The 2011 version is as good as any and quite photogenic.

Next was the Sophie’s Choice of toast: Cuban French Toast with fruit vs. Grilled Cinnamon Bread with fruit and cream. The Gourmand approach to problem solving goes something like this, “when in doubt, get both”. It was the right choice. Both get “best of show” in their classes. I can not advise you to pick one over the other. The crunchy, funnel cake like batter on the French Toast is borderline addictive. French or not, Cuban bread is the finest way to experience this dish. As for the Cinnamon Bread, the cream was great – I would love to see more on teh side next time.

(I mean really, how could you choose?)


All the breads are made in-house at Explorers Club. The bread is fresh, hearty and serves as a great base for many of the dishes or a compliment for dipping sauces on the side. One their best uses of bread is the Fried Egg sandwich served on Ciabatta with Muenster Cheese and Jalapeno slaw with redskin potatoes on the side. This is a bit messy to eat but who cares, it might be the best breakfast sandwich (non-traditional category) in town.

Love at first bite? In my case, they had me at OPEN. Trying to be objective, would I feel the same way about Explorers Club without the prior history? Yes. If anything my expectations and hopes may have made impressing me more difficult. Considering that more additions and improvements are in the works for the coming weeks, it is easy to believe their grade of A going to A+. The Explorer’s Club is worth exploring. I would suggest going for both a dinner and brunch to gauge the potential that is here.

I will be writing about the Explorers Club more for sure. I am interested in what the bar menu will have to offer as well as the variety of cocktails appearing behind the bar. Did I mention I was really happy?

The Explorer’s Club opens the doors to the world on October 28th, 2011.

Explorers Club
1586 S. High Street
Merion Village / South Side
614.725-0155
Facebook

Explorers Club on Urbanspoon

Posted in CLOSED, Locally Sourced, restaurants, sandwiches, Vegetarian Friendly | Tagged: , , | 13 Comments »

New System Bakery, Chillicothe: Back on the Donut Trail

Posted by CMH Gourmand on October 17, 2011

As October starts to wane I must to make sure your Pumpkin needs are met in full. Let me introduce you to New System Bakery in Chillicothe.

When an avowed foodie, wine expert and elite eater says that New System donuts are to die for, I listened. The downside is that the New System Bakery has some old school hours. They are closed Saturday and Sunday so being impaired by employment as well as the bakery’s hours (5 am to 5 pm) it took me nearly a year for the stars to align to get myself down SR 23 to Chillicothe for a donut. By donut I mean a box of a dozen or so. It is a tough drive since I passed previous Donut Trail spots.

On a previous donut run, I was close to The New System Bakery at (very) nearby Crispie Creme donut shop. My team and I were happy with Crispie Creme and I wondered if Chillicothe could really have two stellar donuteries. It turns out the citizens of Chillicothe represent quite well on the Ohio donut food chain.

New System is busy by report of customers and employees. The woman serving me said she was worn out and it was only 10 am. She said it was a slow day. The employee also mentioned they frequently run out of most items before they close the doors. What are fan favorites? By report cakes, seasonal holiday cut out cookies, cinnamon rolls, breads and…….

It seems everyone likes everything at New System Bakery. At New System baking comes first and donuts are just part of the spectum of production. The end results are still very good in the donut category. My focus was donuts and I was in luck, there were still some left. At ten in the morning pickings were sparse. I had lucked out, there were still a few Bismarck’s left.

The Bismarcks appear to be the local favorite. While smaller than others of the ilk, the weight of sugar alone in these ticking time bombs of fried doughy goodness would outweigh a Tim Horton’s box. Chillicoth/ians/ites/ers (?) tend to order in advance and in mass, most people steering past my glazed over eyes and senses were picking up boxes. The counter people seemed to know each visitor by name and order. I was clued in to a secret – whenever a glazed holiday cookie appears grab as many as you can and don’t make eye contact with anyone as you leave the establishment.

I did get the last Pumpkin glazed pumpkin donut. It was by far, without a doubt, the finest, pumpkin based donut I have consumed… ever.

The New System itself deserves a mention of two. I am not sure what the system was but it is very old now. The bakery opened in 1920. The interior, cabinets and counters look untouched since the pre prohibition era. Spelled out in large pink letters above the counter is the phrase: Make Your Day Better With Donuts. Okay, no argument there (just try to bake more please). I did not sample a pie but looking at them my instinctive sweet-o-meter indicates they are good. The initials used to identify the pies are a definite plus one on my pie scale as well.

If I had to choose between Crispie Creme and New System, which would win? It depends on the donut. If I could only get one donut, it would be the pumpkin donut at New System, if there are any left.

New System on Facebook
75 East Main Street
Chillicothe, OH 45601-2507
740.773.2885

Posted in bakery, donuts, Ohio Donut Trail, Road Trip | Tagged: | 1 Comment »

Harvest Pizzeria: Pizza + Patio = Pleasure

Posted by CMH Gourmand on September 16, 2011

Harvest Pizzeria opened in August and was greeted with immediate, over the top adoration. Is it deserved? I believe so. A true pizzeria has been the missing element in the German Village / Merion Village dining options for quite some time. Granted Planks and Hi Beck have very good pizzas, but a proper pizzeria….not so much.

Harvest Pizzeria is all that and a bowl of olives and maybe a crate of organic something. Owner Chris Crader is no stranger to the dining scene in Columbus. He has very good street credibility in numerous roles. It seems one of his first jobs was in a pizza shop. He combined all of his experience plus a desire to cook with some of what he grows on a one acre farm as well as a rooftop garden into Harvest. Add in a small brick building with the charm of a minimalist European Cafe mix with a welcoming patio and the end result is the slam dunk you may have read about elsewhere. The hype is right about Harvest Pizzeria.

The place has been packed on each visit I have made to Harvest. While all of the above is quite nice, the pressing question is “what about the food”. It is good. It is very good. The cocktails are well done with the house margarita being the winner so far. The wine selection is small and heavily focused on a small number of underappreciated Italian and European wines.

The tiny kitchen could serve the dining area with a light sweat but add in the patio and things get a bit tight for the kitchen staff. The wood/gas oven combination is in constant use and the cooks are in constant motion.

The starters/appetizers are simple with a twist. See the photos below.

Hudson Valley Foie Gras Tourchon with Malvasia grape must (the stuff in the dropper) and crostini


Olives with Cerignola, Castelvetrano, Giaraffa olives, Marcona almonds and fresh herbs

Among the several pizza combinations these three are my favorites: Spicy Yuma (Canal Junction Gouda, chorizo, jalapeno, corn, roasted red pepper, chipotle-spiked tomato sauce) Goat Cheese (with soppressata, caramelized onion, cherry tomato and garlic) and Ohio Bacon with fresh mozzarella, roasted red pepper, aleppo pepper flake and marjoram.

Two desserts take the cake. Butterscotch Budino (caramel sauce, creme fraiche, toasted hazelnuts, vanilla-scented Maldon sea salt) and Pie of the Day.

Harvest is worth a visit. Plan on waiting. Go while you can still enjoy the patio for the season.

495 S. 4th Street
German Village
614.824.1769
http://harvestpizzeria.com

Harvest Pizzeria on Urbanspoon

Posted in pizza, restaurants | Tagged: | Leave a Comment »