CMH Gourmand – Eating in Columbus & Ohio

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Archive for the ‘Ohio’ Category

SKY Gourmand: Zinc….Why you should add it to your diet.

Posted by CMH Gourmand on June 5, 2012

Located one half block from the shores of Lake Erie, Zinc Brasserie has made a name for itself with north coast culinary hipsters, tourists, residents and food enthusiasts. Reading the numerous very positive reviews on every rating tool I can find, each reads about the same. (Paraphrased) – “I can’t believe there is a place like this in Sandusky, the French styled menu exceeded my expectations, I really loved the Beet Salad”. On the surface, I would say exactly the same thing. Digging deeper, I will write a bit more.

First, non residents of Columbus often say “I can’t believe I found something like this in Columbus, Ohio”. A good restaurant can be anywhere and it can serve anything. The basics are the same – food, service, atmosphere and exceeding expectations in each of the previous categories. Zinc Brasserie does well in all of these areas.

We are all prone to discount small cities and towns as not being urbane enough to spawn a good restaurant. I wonder why that is? Jackson Hole boasts several great restaurants due to the influx of people passing through to enjoy the area. It is possible for a good or great restaurant to call any locale home, many tend to write off fly over country or any place with only one zip code. Granted the probability is overwhelming but it is there. In retrospect, we should expect a restaurant like this in Sandusky, maybe a few of them. The north coast of Ohio offers a bounty of fresh and local produce, great purveyors, fish and The Chef’s Garden is just a corn hole toss away in nearby Huron (I spied a few familiar looking micro greens on my plate). Sandusky is no Metropolis but it does have a sizable population and a flood of visitors flowing through six to eight months per year. The city hosts one of nearly every restaurant chain known to man as well as several independent restaurants. My philosophy is “if you cook well, they will come”. And come they do, to downtown Sandusky. Cleveland is not so far away. In fact, Zinc Brasserie is listed among the Cleveland Independents, a group of some of the best restaurants in the greater Cleveland area. Cleveland is close enough for Zinc to see where the culinary bar is raised to. Chef Cesare Avallone and his wife Sarah saw the bar then jumped over it.

Speaking of bars, Zinc sports a good one. The counter area looks like a classic bar from the early 20th century. While the bar presents well, it is not a case of form over substance. The drink menu features well crafted cocktails, a deep wine list and a satisfactory selection of beers including some north coast all-stars. Speaking of bars again, located across the street at 145 Columbus Ave is the Avallone’s second venture Crush Wine Bar. I would link the website but it is pretty obnoxious (note to web designers, music on a restaurant web site is a major fail in the world of social media, or any media for that matter). I scouted out Crush status post Zinc. It serves a smaller tapas style menu, adds more cocktails and wines that Zinc can’t find room for and serves as a pre or post destination for those dining across the street. Speaking of additional venture…. the Avallone’s are opening a third restaurant in Sandusky this summer. It is called Dockside Cafe. It sits right on the lake and is accessible by foot, bike, car or boat.

Now back to Zinc. The space is small, cozy (at some tables cramped) and does have an old and French bistro feel. The menu reflects the current season and also changes frequently due to a focus of local and in farm fresh ingredients. I could wax on about my specific entrees and how good each dish was….but most likely my meal no longer exists with the same combination of ingredients so I will just engage in some food blog porn below (I hope I am not swatted by a pretentious bear). ((The first person to guess what I am alluding to in the previous sentence gets a prize of some manner)). A few dining notes: there are good reasons why so many reviews include the word beet; Zinc Brasserie does a great job with presentation but not to the detriment of anything in the menu, especially those dishes featuring meat; and dessert…do it.

Zinc Brasserie

142 Columbus Avenue • Sandusky, OH • 419.502.9462

Zinc Brasserie on Urbanspoon

Crush Wine Bar
145 Columbus Ave.
Sandusky
419.502.WINE

Posted in cocktails, Ohio, restaurants, Road Trip, Sky Gourmand | 1 Comment »

SKY Gourmand: Toft’s Ice Cream Parlor

Posted by CMH Gourmand on June 3, 2012

The last time I visited Toft’s Ice Cream Parlor in Sandusky was in 1998. Note to self, this should be a yearly visit at the least. At the time I was writing an article about the best ice cream parlors in Ohio. I still firmly believe this is one of the best. I visited last fall during my extended tour of the Lake Erie Coast. I made it a point to go to Toft’s because I still had a great memory of the place so many years later (because in 1998 I arrived near the end of the day and I had already been to several area ice creameries on my quest).

Let’s begin with some back story. The Toft family started selling milk from their farm in 1900. By 1940 the company had grown to selling a wide range of dairy products throughout a large part of Northeast Ohio and built a new plant with the addition of an ice cream production line and a parlor to scoop out their new ice cream products.

In 1985 the company moved to the present location at the intersection of Venice Road and Edgewater Drive. Toft’s is still locally and family owned…a rarity in the business and it is he oldest continuously operating dairy in Ohio. Milk is purchased from local diary farmers and is free of growth hormones.

Considering all of the above, it could have been easy for the company to ditch the parlor to cut costs and employee expenses. However, the parlor persists and it is easy to understand why. First the parlor is a showcase of their products and the company is very proud of what they make and how they make it. In addition to scooping ice cream, other Toft’s products are sold here including milk, half and half, whipped cream and more. The much-loved and hard to find Ballreich’s potato chips are on the shelves.

The parlor scoops thirty plus ice cream flavors to the public. The flavors vary from the standard vanilla to more exotic flavors such as Graham Central Station and Yellow Cake Batter. The scoops are gigantic…close to a pint in size and weight. Truthfully, I could not finish one full scoop of ice cream. I suppose scooping from a parlor attached to the production plant makes the employees extra generous with their ice cream allocation. I also can’t think of any other ice cream operation with lower scoop prices than Toft’s (three scoops at Jeni’s would buy almost the entire flavor selection at Toft’s). The ice cream is obviously freshly made. You can also buy pints, gallons and some three gallon flavors to take home. Outside of The Anderson’s which has a limited selection, there is no other place to get Toft’s in central Ohio, so if you go take a cooler and stock up.

It is easy to miss the parlor since it is attached to a large manufacturing facility, but it is worth dropping in even if you are full. The place is fun and it is refreshing to see a company create a sense of playfulness in their place which serves as their face to the public. The rear wall is lined with chairs made just for the purpose of sitting and eating ice cream that were part of the old Toft’s parlor on Monroe Street. The chairs moved to the new plant on Venice Road when it was built. They have attached desk arms to allow a place to sit to ponder your flavor selection or rest while you are trying to complete a full scoop. (Credit for clarification to OAFDawg). I really enjoy the cow filled mural along the walls as well.

If you are in the area or close by, make some time to drop into Toft’s but think twice about ordering two scoops.

Toft’s Dairy
3717 Venice Road
Sandusky
Parlor Phone: 419.625.5490

Other stores in Port Clinton and Fremont

Toft Dairy Ice Cream Parlor on Urbanspoon

Posted in ice cream, Ohio, Road Trip, Sky Gourmand | Tagged: | 2 Comments »

SKY Gourmand: The Cooker is Back and a Trip Down Fast Casual Memory Lane

Posted by CMH Gourmand on May 8, 2012

To begin, we must go to the past. Flashback to the golden age of fast casual dining in Columbus the 1980’s and early 1990’s. The Cooker stood out among an array of “bling filled” choices, many of them locally based including Max & Erma’s, Damon’s, The 55 Group, Salvi’s, etc., as Columbus was transitioning from Fast Food Capital of the World to the Fast Casual Capital. The Cooker Bar and Grille launched in 1984, was incorporated in 1986, started to sell stock in 1989 and at the peak employed nearly 3000 people in several states. I knew several people who started out as bussers and found themselves as corporate trainers in less than two years with the company. Although founded in Nashville the company had a strong Columbus following and connection. As was the case of many restaurants started or based in Columbus area during the time period, the Cooker expanded too quickly without firming up assets and died a slow, painful death in a market clogged with Applebees and Chili’s. The last Columbus Cooker, on Lane Ave., near The Varsity Club shuttered and padlocked the doors in 2004. One interesting statistic from the era of the Cooker, the focus on service: “Cooker’s policy was to offer a money-back, satisfaction guarantee, or to give away free meals if customers were dissatisfied. In 1992, Cooker gave away $750,000 in free meals to back up the guarantee and justified that expense as a positive advertising strategy. The restaurant began as a made from scratch restaurant and was based in Columbus for a long time. Ask anyone in town that remembers this era and one word speeds out of their mouths: biscuits. Cheddar filled biscuits to be exact, these were revolutionary in their time, decadent, buttery and served on the table (with refills) with each meal. Come for the biscuits, stay for the rest. Others that remember the early, early days of chain, before it had too many links fondly recall the Pot Roast.

Flash forward to last summer. I received this e-mail.

Please allow me to introduce myself. My name is Steven Schuster and I was a multi-unit manager for the Cooker Bar & Grille in the 90’s. Like many, guests and crew members, I was shocked and amazed when Cooker went to sleep in 2004.

Over the years, many people shared their love of the Cooker brand with me. So much so that in 2007, another former multi-unit manager and I bought the brand name and recipes with plans to re-ignite the brand.

We did just that last November. The Cooker Bar & Grille reopened in Sandusky, Ohio. How we got here is in the story below. Our final website goes live this month. Until then, we do have a temporary web-site up with menu and pictures available for your perusal at http://www.cookerbarandgrille.com

In addition, you can see the energy for the brand first hand on Facebook and Twitter.

With all the great attractions in our area: Cedar Point, Kalahari, the Lake Erie Islands, we would love for you to come here, enjoy the great Cooker food that you know and love, then spend some time enjoying everything our area has to offer. We would be pleased to send you certificates for complimentary food. (Also, if you are interested, our friends at the Lake Erie Shores and Islands Welcome Center can arrange complimentary accommodations for your visit.) If you feel the free food would compromise the integrity of your article, I completely understand but would still love for you to experience the southern inspired recipes, great service, and chic ambience that made the Cooker famous. Please ask for me when you are in. I can fill you in on more details for your story and I would enjoy meeting you.

The Cooker was back? In Sandusky? Hmm.

Restaurant industry, pay attention and read the above again. I turn down almost every offer, inducement, etc., that I am contacted to write about. I make a few exceptions. In this case, to see the Cooker make a comeback had me intrigued, especially with the strong connection to Columbus. Second, this is a well written letter….not “To whom it may concern” or “Dear CMH Gourmand”, they took some time to review my site, find my name and laid out all kinds of helpful information for me. That my friends shows good research and some effort.

In exchange, I have to apologize. I make my journey to the Cooker last November and I am just writing about it now. My rationalization was that since it is now just the beginning of the Lake Erie migration season, it is much more topical to post this now that back in December. While, that is true, the reality is I overextended myself, my notes were buried and I procrastinated. I historically beat deadlines. I did not have a drop dead date for this post but my “worst possible case scenario” at the time was “I should have this out in January.” Fail, I missed that by a long shot.

To to Steven Schuster I say, thank you for the opportunity, your hospitality and for your patience. Finally, here is the update on The Cooker 2.0.


Clarification: Sandusky does have an airport and the designation code for it is SKY.


Honestly, I briefly debated if I wanted to go all the way to Sandusky for the Cooker. After a short bit of contemplation, I was sure I wanted to go, even if it meant going up and back in the same day. The Cooker really is a part of Columbus culinary history. From a nostalgic viewpoint you can never go home again” but if those cheddar biscuits and my favorite broccoli cheddar casserole were back on the menu, I was going. I checked the menu and…check! I found plenty of other things to do while in the area to make the trip a sure hit.

The Cooker is buried in a long, long row of what seems like every national and regional restaurant chain along one single road on the path to Cedar Point and Lake Erie. I literally started to make a list of the chains and stopped when I hit forty….even through there were many more. The Cooker definitely has done well to survive among all of the competition.

The (new) Cooker has much of the character of the original with some relics of the old days interspersed among the new decor. So cutting to the chase Columbus. Yes, The Cooker still serves the biscuits and they are still good, but a bit smaller than I recall from my formative years. The menu still has a focus on Southern Fare with comfort food influences. Some updates have been added such as a veggie burger option, a broad beer and cocktail list and plenty of sandwiches. An item I do not recall from the past, but I enjoyed a lot were the freshly made potato chips. These were thick, chewy and crunchy at the same time. Definitely more than an afterthought and a must try on the menu.

The Broccoli Cheese Casserole is still listed among the sides and pretty close to what I recalled from the days of glory – plenty of cheese with some occasional broccoli tossed in. I had forgotten the Cooker offers the option to get four side dishes as a meal. I saw that is still a selection on the current Cooker menu. In my day, was the choice I usually went with. Thank you for pulling that one out of the bullpen Cooker Bar and Grille.

The current Cooker location is kid friendly but with a few sports bar aspects to it however it retains a good amount of the feel and focus on service just as the original. The only miscue was the pot roast. It was passable but weak in the two aspects I look for the most: a lot of au ju juices and plenty of cut up, thick vegetables. There were some carrots mixed among the meat but not the large chunks of tubers and root vegetables I enjoy. I think we may have gotten the top or the bottom of the pot on ours because I did spy a heartier version at another table.

A new addition I that strongly support is the addition to Toft’s Ice Cream throughout the dessert menu. This is a great regional Ohio ice cream and Toft’s shows The Cooker’s support of sourcing local with this product on their menu.

Even though I snuck into the Cooker on the down low, Steve figured out who I was from my note taking and photos on the fly. He checked in with me, answered all of my questions and made me feel at home. Observing the flow of customers before he joined me, I saw him checking in with every customer on site. While The Cooker has name recognition and a history, Steve is clearly treating the Cooker 2.0 as a start-up restaurant and a relaunch of the best of the brand. He recognizes that good service is the key to repeat business in the sea of restaurants that surround him and a necessity to survive and thrive when Cedar Point is closed for the season.

The Cooker is worth a visit for nostalgia sake alone. It is also a decent restaurant on its own merit and among the better choices in the area, especially for family dining. See below for details.

Cooker Website
Cooker Bar & Grille
4318 Milan Road
Sandusky, OH
419.625.9700

The Cooker  on Urbanspoon

Posted in Ohio, Road Trip, Sky Gourmand, Travelfoodalogue | Tagged: , , , | 8 Comments »

Funcoast Gourmand: Eating My Way Along The Lake Erie Shores

Posted by CMH Gourmand on April 25, 2012

As a kid growing up in Columbus, I thought I was aware of what the north coast of Ohio had to offer: Put-In-Bay, Cedar Point, Kelley’s Island and chilled early morning fishing trips with my dad (it took several years to figure out I was allergic to fish). If the fishing was good and we were ahead of schedule I MIGHT get to go to Phil’s Inn in Port Clinton for spaghetti before driving home. The north coast was a long day trip resulting in a tuckered out pre-Gourmand at the end of the day.

Flash forward a decade or two. My definition of fun has changed significantly now plus I can control my own destiny because I can drive myself. No more would I suffer the torment of driving by The Cheese Haven, cool looking diners and all varieties of interesting food options. Honestly, while the thought of heading back to this part of the state for culinary discovery had crossed my mind on occasion, I never made the effort. Then I received an e-mail which piqued my interest.

The message came to Gourmand HQ from the owner of the Cooker. Yeah, that’s right The Cooker. If you lived in Columbus from the mid 1980’s to about 2004 you were aware of the Cooker and its hey day in the early years. It was the fast casual place to go for everyone, especially in the Bethel Road area – dates, business lunches, family events, etc., that was the place to be. The chain grew fast and furious and like many of its Columbus cousins (Damon’s, Hoggy’s, Max and Erma’s, The 55 Group. etc.) of the era to expanded too far, too quick and lost it’s focus and following.

The universal memory of any Cooker customers is the same: the biscuits and the brocoli and cheese casserole. The Cooker was returning and had a location in Sandusky. Would I like to come? Absolutely, for nostalgia alone but also to see if the menu could be replicated to my memories. So thinking of our north coast, I started to plot other activities I might engage in. I recalled my earlier adventure to Chef’s Garden, I wanted to go there again. A childhood of Cheese Haven torment could be corrected. I had been to Toft’s Dairy back in 1998 researching ice cream in Ohio and really wanted to get another lick at that place. I had a short list of restaurants I had been tracking in the area and a long list of wineries, including Firelands. Clearly in-depth research was called for.

I had a very ambitious agenda for a day trip. My minions will tell you that I can pack a lot of driving and eating into a day, but even I realized I was going to need more than 24 hours to scratch the surface of what the “Funcoast” could offer.

I was put in contact with Jill Bauer at Lake Erie Shores and Islands. She provided me with even more reasons to explore the area and enough of a reality check to at least temper my ambitions to a few stops along one section of the coast. She then connected me with a perfectly situated base of operations for my target area – Captain Montague’s Bed and Breakfast.

I charted my drive on Ohio’s back roads, complied my to eat list and set off on my journey of rediscovery. Along the way I found a food truck in Norwalk, some incredible road side eateries, great small towns (watch out for the speed trap of Crestline) and even avoided the magnetic pull of the Blue Hole.

I took my trip back in November so to bring you up to speed, I am ending my procrastination with a series of Funcoast posts over the next week to ten days with highlights from my expedition. Stay tuned for dispatches on the best bed and breakfast in Northern Ohio, The Cooker, Zinc (the Restaurant, not the mineral), Toft’s Dairy and maybe more.

I know I came back wanting to go back and do much more including a first trip to Chez Francois which was highly recommended by my B&B hosts and fellow culinary house guests.

Posted in Ohio, Road Trip, Travelfoodalogue | Tagged: , | 2 Comments »

Darrell’s Donuts: A Tale of Two Brothers (The Ohio Donut Trail)

Posted by CMH Gourmand on February 15, 2012

In the pre Donut Trail days, there was only one donutery that mattered to me. Donald’s Donuts in Zanesville (circa 2010). My job at the time took me to Zanesville every few months. I often had a few minutes between appointments and Donald’s was always in between point A and point B. There was nothing else of notice in the realm of food along my route. Donald’s old, lime green sign lured me in. My expectations were low. I was wooed on my first bite and soon hailed Donald’s as the best in the state. While my donut horizons expanded widely with my waistline since then, I still believe Donald’s is easily in the top five, if not the top three in the Buckeye state. Donald’s kindled an interest in donuts and a belief they could be good.

After so many trips and so much talk about Donald’s I was taken aback when someone finally asked…”but what about Darrell’s?” Huh, What, Where, um really? Yes. Darrell’s is also a Zanesville donutery and the owner is the brother of Donald. This reeked of Urban Legend and Hatfields and McCoys (my kin) or Goumas and Goumas. I noted the story but filed it away. After I heard about Darrel’s it took over a year for me to get there. And while rumors were that there was a rift, such is/was not the case (as updated in 2015 by a son of one of the owners: I’m adding part of his comments below): “the boys did not work for their father, actually the family opened a donut shop in Cherokee NC — Darrell still lived in Zanesville Ohio and was not part of that business. This occurred in the 1950s. Donalds was established in the south end of Zanesville. The business moved from Pine Street to Maysville pike. The current location on Maple opened in 1984 and the opening of Darrells in 1978 had nothing to do with a recipe just his desire to have his own business. Sorry the legend doesn’t live up.

Darrell’s does not look like much from the outside. This place blends together with other shops in a small strip mall. On the inside, it is homey and is bathed in Americanness. The woman behind the counter was as friendly as she could be and was happy to answer all types of questions about the Donald and Darrell connection (which later turned out to not quite be completely accurate).

What you are all interested in is which is better. That is not an easy question. Passing Zanesville via I-70, which 99% of you will do if you are inclined to pass through, neither place is near an exit. Donald’s is the closer of the two. Driving to Darrell’s I was convinced I had missed it several times and I saw a lot of Zanesville I did not care to see (I was also tricked by a diner that looked great on the outside but served out of the box food on the inside). Darrell’s has a wider range of items to choose from and a significantly friendlier staff. It is the type of place where you would order a donut then lounge around talking high school sports for four or five hours. Donald’s is a grab ’em and go place. I would give a very slight edge to Donald’s in most categories of donuts but Darrell’s does shine in the iced category and in the full customer experience. Darrell’s also serves pastries and makes one of the best counter served brownies in the business.

Donald’s has the cool retro bag while Darrell’s offered me the hand-lettered and illustrated box of donuts. While I was sampling and photographing I made small talk with an elderly gentleman wandering the country. He has just discovered Darrell’s after a very wrong turn and on one bite considered Darrell’s among the best he had anywhere. I supported his choice and told him of Donald’s as an incentive to head back to Zanesville again on his return journey. You can’t go wrong with either place or either recipe. Sandwich a trip to Tom’s Ice Cream Bowl in the middle and one could have a very sweet trip to the Y-Bridge city. As for the split, the end result was two donut shops and two really good versions of Midwestern Maple Glazed donuts, I think we got the best ends of the deal or the feud or whatever the split was and became. If Donald and Darrell have another brother Darrell, then even better, just place the donut shop right by exit 169 if you don’t mind.

1 N Maysville Ave
Zanesville
740.454.0332

Darrell's Donuts on Urbanspoon

Posted in donuts, Ohio Donut Trail, Road Trip | Tagged: , | 11 Comments »

New System Bakery, Chillicothe: Back on the Donut Trail

Posted by CMH Gourmand on October 17, 2011

As October starts to wane I must to make sure your Pumpkin needs are met in full. Let me introduce you to New System Bakery in Chillicothe.

When an avowed foodie, wine expert and elite eater says that New System donuts are to die for, I listened. The downside is that the New System Bakery has some old school hours. They are closed Saturday and Sunday so being impaired by employment as well as the bakery’s hours (5 am to 5 pm) it took me nearly a year for the stars to align to get myself down SR 23 to Chillicothe for a donut. By donut I mean a box of a dozen or so. It is a tough drive since I passed previous Donut Trail spots.

On a previous donut run, I was close to The New System Bakery at (very) nearby Crispie Creme donut shop. My team and I were happy with Crispie Creme and I wondered if Chillicothe could really have two stellar donuteries. It turns out the citizens of Chillicothe represent quite well on the Ohio donut food chain.

New System is busy by report of customers and employees. The woman serving me said she was worn out and it was only 10 am. She said it was a slow day. The employee also mentioned they frequently run out of most items before they close the doors. What are fan favorites? By report cakes, seasonal holiday cut out cookies, cinnamon rolls, breads and…….

It seems everyone likes everything at New System Bakery. At New System baking comes first and donuts are just part of the spectum of production. The end results are still very good in the donut category. My focus was donuts and I was in luck, there were still some left. At ten in the morning pickings were sparse. I had lucked out, there were still a few Bismarck’s left.

The Bismarcks appear to be the local favorite. While smaller than others of the ilk, the weight of sugar alone in these ticking time bombs of fried doughy goodness would outweigh a Tim Horton’s box. Chillicoth/ians/ites/ers (?) tend to order in advance and in mass, most people steering past my glazed over eyes and senses were picking up boxes. The counter people seemed to know each visitor by name and order. I was clued in to a secret – whenever a glazed holiday cookie appears grab as many as you can and don’t make eye contact with anyone as you leave the establishment.

I did get the last Pumpkin glazed pumpkin donut. It was by far, without a doubt, the finest, pumpkin based donut I have consumed… ever.

The New System itself deserves a mention of two. I am not sure what the system was but it is very old now. The bakery opened in 1920. The interior, cabinets and counters look untouched since the pre prohibition era. Spelled out in large pink letters above the counter is the phrase: Make Your Day Better With Donuts. Okay, no argument there (just try to bake more please). I did not sample a pie but looking at them my instinctive sweet-o-meter indicates they are good. The initials used to identify the pies are a definite plus one on my pie scale as well.

If I had to choose between Crispie Creme and New System, which would win? It depends on the donut. If I could only get one donut, it would be the pumpkin donut at New System, if there are any left.

New System on Facebook
75 East Main Street
Chillicothe, OH 45601-2507
740.773.2885

Posted in bakery, donuts, Ohio Donut Trail, Road Trip | Tagged: | 1 Comment »

Hot Dog University: Serving Up The American Dream

Posted by CMH Gourmand on May 24, 2011

In the heart of hot dog country, to be specific, at USDA site #0001, The Vienna Beef Factory, Chicago Illinois, Mark Reitman is teaching the art of the cart. After living a life on the bun he decided to teach the art and science of owning and operating a hot dog cart to a growing number of people looking to cook up their own business. Mark is a PH.D, (Professor of Hot Dogs) at Hot Dog University.

Hot Dog U is serving the American Dream in a two day class on all things hot dog. This is definitely a course where you do not mind spending time after class. Mark has been preparing for his professorship all of his life. He grew up in the hot dog culture of Chicago’s west side. His first hot dog was on Maxwell Street (the Mecca of Chicago Hot Dogs) at the age of five. In the 1950’s he worked soda fountain of his dad’s drug store. In high school he flipped burgers and mixed malts at a local landmark known as Henry’s Drive-In. During college, he worked the best job of his career as commissary manager for largest all-girl dormitory at school. He then worked as a teacher and school counselor while working side jobs as a salesman and pinch hitter for various food businesses owned by family and friends.

After decades of sales, schmoozing and deal making he could not convince his wife to open a hot dog stand with him so he asked if they could settle for a cart. In 2003, The Grateful Dog cart began serving to the public and Mark found that he had hit the mark for an independent business. People sought him out for tips and trade secrets for the art of the cart so he opened Hot Dog University in 2006. He started taking students to the Vienna Beef Plant to see and understand how hot dogs are made. As a result many of graduates began ordering and selling Vienna Beef hot dogs, which caught the attention of the company. In 2009, the Vienna Beef asked Mark to become part of the family and move the headquarters of Hot Dog U from Milwaukee to Chicago. Since it’s founding 500 plus students have graduated from Mark’s program. In 2010, 138 students passed through the hallowed halls of hot doggery at Vienna Beef. This year, added classes are continuing to fill up with people in search of the Amercian Dream.

In April, I was one of those students. I met Mark in 2008 when I was touring Vienna Beef as part of the Dirty Frank’s Chicago Hot Dog research project.

Since then, I have developed an in depth knowledge of Columbus Street food in the form of Taco Trucks and Mobile Vendors.

I am a believer in street food and mobile vending. It is a sign of the times. While we might not be able to afford a steak nowadays we always seem to find time and money for a tubesteak. That is reality that inspires people to follow their dreams of being their own boss in the form of a hot dog cart. As our society and economy come full circle to the eras that celebrated the hot dog, the depression sandwich, (as the hot dog was known in the 1930’s) is seeing a resurgence. The hot dog, economical eating and a budget friendly start up business go hand in hand during our own hard times.

The seven other students in my class came from around the country: New Mexico, South Carolina, Michigan and two sides of Chicago. We also had one student “stuck in Effingham” for most of the first day fighting snow and train delays. Everyone had a different story for enrolling in class. Every reason was a reflection of our new world – people need or want to take a risk to make a new life but something with limited risk and a proven track record is more appealing, especially for the culinary impaired. Mark made sure to cater the class to the needs and experience level of his students including his first ever mobile food truck vendor (as Mark and I agreed…the times they are a changing and the bigger the wheels the more hot dogs you can sell).

Mark started with a frank discussion on running a small business. Any good businessperson needs to know their product. We donned our lab coats and hairnets for our first field trip. Since the pedigree of hot dogs has been poked fun at since their inception, we took a three-hour tour of the Vienna Beef plant to understand what makes an encased meat a hot dog. Mark became the Willy Wonka of Wieners during our magical meatery tour. We started with freshly butchered cuts of meat being cut by hand and followed those cuts of beef as they were sliced, diced, grinded, grinded again, encases, cooked, smoked and packaged. We never had to ask, “Where’s the Beef?” Throughout the tour were instructed on hot dog science and terminology: skinless vs. natural casing, 9:1, 8:1, 6:1, 5:1 and 4:1 hot dogs (graduates know what that means), what makes a hot dog snap, the difference between lamb/sheep linings and hog linings (parts are not just parts they have a purpose) and more. Mark led us to the test lab to try out a wide variety of hot dogs made at the plant and cooked different ways. We then watched the packaging process and visited the specialty departments before heading to the cafeteria for lunch… hot dogs of course. To say we were fully immersed in our first half day of class would be an understatement.

Vienna Beef is an amazing wonderland of meat. Not all hot dogs are created equal (or even made with the same stuff). It is hard not to respect the commitment and adherence to tradition this family operated company maintains for their product. Vienna Beef hot dogs cost more but there is good sense for paying the extra cents. You do get what you pay for in the world of hot dogs. In addition to a variety hot dogs and sausages; the plant also produces 100 soups and six types of chili for retail and commercial businesses.

We headed back to the classroom for a whirlwind of information on choosing and outfitting a cart, permits, food safety, the proper temperature for (re) cooking a hot dog, finding a base station, pricing, marketing and more. My notebook, course manual and brain were as stuffed as a Polish sausage with information as I headed out of the class at the end of the first day.

On day two, we met at Restaurant Depot to walk through the store using the seasoned eye of a street-smart street meat vendor. Mark instructed us on what to buy, what equipment to use and purchase, how to look at hot dog packaging labels to determine a plethora of information about the quality of the hot dog and a countless list of do and don’t for operating a cart. For example, tongs do matter. Get two sets and make sure they are springless. Don’t trust me on this, take it from Mark, he can give you ten reasons why. Don’t put the cart before the course if you can help it because knowing what is needed and how to equip a cart is going to save a new owner time and money and countless mistakes. Mark advises students not to buy a cart until after they take the class and time and time again, the sage wisdom of this was proven in our discussions. I walked out of Restaurant Depot armed with knowledge everything I would need to buy on day one of hot dog slinging, how much my equipment would cost and what to do with it…..or at least what not to do.

The next part of class was the final exam: cooking hot dogs. We set up a cart in the Vienna Beef parking lot then had Mark run us through everything from start to finish. We steamed buns, grilled and simmered hot dogs and sausages, checked our water temperature and learned the art of selecting the right music for peddle our wares.

We headed back to class after lunch for more advanced hot dog studies. Mark is a brainstormer and barnstormer when in comes to cart marketing. He explains how to use the five senses to sniff out business for your hot dogs. Hot dogs elicit an emotional response, to the right side of our brains. The smell of a hot dog and the primary colors with it (red and yellow) take us back to childhood (and if that grew up in Chicago takes you back to the neighborhood you grew up in). Owning your own business strikes an emotional cord too. Other practical tips are covered as well such as stocking the right beverages. The type of soda selected is a demographic and geographic choice – you need to know your customer or you could be stuck with a cooler full of Grape Crush at a field hockey game. What is the most important factor in a successful hot dog cart (other than the personality and dog tired resolution of the hot dog vendor)? Location, Location, Location. The class covers location with a couple genius ideas I never thought of in two years of chasing street vendors in Columbus.

During our classes, the top dogs of Vienna Beef visited us. The Chicago Mob left town but not the sense of kinship that comes from doing business in the Windy City. In the most sincere and heartfelt tones we were told that Vienna Beef supported any business that sells their products and the examples given were not a haed sell. There is a true sense of family and everyone seems focused on wanting everyone new businessperson in this class to make their dream a reality.

So was the class worth it. For me, absolutely (it was free). However, I was there as both a writer and a potential mobile operator. I would pay the full price for the class just for what comes after your graduate: people who can answer any question about the business you have and are committed to helping you get the resources you need to solve any problems you might encounter along the way. My notebook was full of things to save money, as well as minutes, weeks and months of missteps and wrong turns by getting first hand advice from someone that was successful in the business.

As a parting gift, I am going to give one of Marks tips away (not a product endorsement). Ice Mountain plastic bottles are better because the labels are less likely to peel off in the icy water of a cooler. For my friends at Vienna Beef, Mark and the city of Chicago I should also state for the record….. never put ketchup on a hot dog. Thank you Hot Dog U for a useful education.

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There are a few places they sling a Chicago dog in Columbus.

Dirty Franks
248 South 4th Street
Downtown

Loops Good Food
Upper Arlington
1629 Northwest Blvd

Wholly Joes

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Summer Solstice Spricebush Celebration: at Jackie O’s, (Athens) June 18th

Posted by CMH Gourmand on May 21, 2011

So you survived the rapture? Now get ready for the Solstice. Chris Chimel has a knack for taking something off the culinary radar and placing it in the center of attention. He took the lowly, forgotten Pawpaw and made it the state fruit Then he helped organize a festival to celebrate everything Pawpaw, including Pawpaw beer for three straight days. Not to be content with Pawpaw pushing, making creative goat cheeses, selling local foods and cranking out ramp crackers he and the Athens community turned their attention to the Spicebush.

In addition to celebrating the departure of students from OU, the Spicebush Celebration will offer education, Spicebush cooking demonstrations, Spicebush beer and foods, music and more. One of the best breweries in the state Jackie O’s is making the beer and hosting the inaugural event. Plus it is the Athens rural-metro area which is my favorite culinary region in the state. Go and celebrate the solstice southern Ohio style.

For more details check out Integration Acres

Chris is a pretty neat guy, to learn more about him and his works read this.

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Lindsey Bakery: A Roundtown Adventure on the Ohio Donut Trail

Posted by CMH Gourmand on May 17, 2011

The donut tasting team arrived in Circleville just after 9:30 on a blustery Saturday Morning. My two tasters had not been to Circleville before. It had been a while for me too. Driving down Main Street all three of us were super smitten by the small town feel at the same moment. It felt like stepping back into time. It felt good maybe even giddy. If we were not at the beginning of a long day of researching, we would have stayed to sit on a bench to talk to town folks, stroll the streets and explore the mom and pop businesses on the stretch. It felt good to feel at home somewhere after just a few minutes.

We liked Lindsey’s just for being in Circleville and we had not even gone through the door. The outside is classic small town Main Street frontage with several handwritten signs on the windows. There is a sign indicating a drive thru – I could not quite figure out how that worked or were it was but I was happy to see the option for donuts on the run. Walking through the entrance, we loved the place. Lindsey’s opened in 1950; it still feels like the fifties inside. The display cases and counter are set up to form a deep U. There were five or six people on the service side ready to answer questions and serve up baked goods. Behind them we could see more handwritten signs and photos of famous politician figures who have come to Lindsey’s to show their endorsement for this home town favorite. Regardless of their politics, it is easy to agree with their taste. Lindsay’s has a wide assortment of all things doughy including cookies, rolls, cinnamon buns, pepperoni rolls (rare in Ohio but ubiquitous in West Virginia so quite a surprise…and pretty good too) and more. It is clear the bakers in the back stay very busy and productive here. Every customer present was a regular with their names and typical orders well-known by the Lindsey’s crew.

We were here for donuts. It seems that all of our questions, deliberate donut selecting and re-selecting then double backing and upgrading to a second box intrigued the folks behind the counter. Our hosts were amused by our mission and made more suggestions based on years and decades behind the counter. The main thing we came for was pumpkin donuts. Lindsay has had made them for over sixty years for a devoted following. People order by the box and worry about the bakeshop running out. Pumpkin donuts are a signature delight in Roundtown (as Circleville is known). In addition to pumpkin donuts, they make pies. Big pies, as in the world’s largest Pumpkin Pie, for the annual Circleville Pumpkin Show. The recipe goes something like this………

For all of my time and photos taken at Lindsey’s I did not get a single donut shot. The donuts are good. The environment is delightful and Circleville has a charm that is hard to describe. This is case where the whole (or donut hole) is greater than the sum of the parts. Come for the donuts and stay for everything else when you drop in at Lindsey’s.

Also of note, we did take a moment for a little side trip to the Oldest Confectioner in the United States just a few blocks away…….Wittich’s

Circleville is worth the trip with plenty to do in between bites.

Lindsey Bakery aka Bake Shop
127 West Main Street
Circleville aka Roundtown
740.474.3871

Lindsey Bake Shop on Urbanspoon

Posted in bakery, donuts, Ohio Donut Trail, pies, Road Trip | Tagged: , , | 4 Comments »

Milton’s Donuts, Middletown: Plus Ohio Donut Trail Tasting Parties

Posted by CMH Gourmand on May 16, 2011

When one donutery suggests another, I am inclined to listen. Such was the case for Milton’s. A counter person at Bill’s donuts in Centerville suggested we try out this spot. We placed it on the to do(nut) to do list for southwest Ohio. Milton’s was crammed in the middle of a very ambitious day of four donut joints, a Mexican Restaurant, Jungle Jim’s and wholesale bulk frozen meat market.

We arrived late in the day. Looking from the outside we were concerned that the bakery was closed and/or out of donuts. The cupboard was almost bare when we arrived. However even though our sampling was limited we were intrigued by what we did find at Milton’s. The exterior is very strip mall. The interior would best be described as utilitarian. We were impressed by some absolutely gorgeous decorated cakes. Also of note was a self-serve coffee pot. Milton’s had a tray of caramel glazed cake donuts left that caught our attention. We thought these were pretty good. We were able to compile a 1/2 box sampler for donut tasting later. Milton’s also carries apple fritters, donuts holes and the usual assortment of donut standards.

What I found most interesting was that this place has Moxie which was not noticed until we were leaving. Milton’s tag line reads “The Connoisseur in Donuts”…. that alone was worth the drive. They also do a great job doing the ribbon tie on the box. Their bag is pretty cool too.

Middletown itself would best be described as mildly depressing. My erroneous directions to my chauffeur while “Driving Mr. Gourmand” took us to places that were moderately depressing. I believe a return trip, early in the morning for a fully stocked Milton’s is justified as long as we do not linger too long.

Milton’s
3533 Roosevelt Blvd
Middletown
513.422.8612

Since I don’t have a lot to cover for Milton’s, it seemed like a good time to discuss what has been going on with all of these donuts. Typically, we bring back five or six or eight boxes of donuts to Columbus and Gourmand Manor. My tasters and a select group of foodistas then have a donut tasting, trying out and competing various donuts against each other to determine best in show, best fritter, etc. You can get a sense of what happens in the photo below.

Posted in bakery, culinary misadventure, donuts, Ohio Donut Trail, Road Trip | Tagged: , | 5 Comments »